I am the new owner (one week) of a VW Phaeton 3.2 V6 (2003). Tonight, after I put a sudden brake, the car accelerates slowly at first and then, after increases speed, goes well. Going in reverse it's ok, no problem.
View 10 RepliesWe have a Galant with approximately 76,000 miles. Lately, we have noticed that when it rains the car sputters and accelerates really slowly up to 30 mph. Once we get to 30, it acts normal. Sometimes if we turn the car off and then start it again, this problem goes away. My guess is it is something with the computer.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1990 chevy lumina 2.5 L 4 cyl. 100,000 miles....The car recently started chugging while in drive and will not accelerate correctly, when I do get it to 55 mph there's still chugging, Ive replaced the fuel filter, spark plug and wires, fuel system clean, new battery, there is a inch crack in the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine, not sure if that would make me lose power to accelerate, the car idles fine, but chugs when put in drive, and will occasionally die when put in reverse....
View 3 RepliesMy Phaeton 2004 3.2 V6 makes a really bad squealing noise when they are warm and the car is just coming to a stop, even if I am only braking slowly. Had VW check the brakes and all they did was to take out the pads, clean them and replace them. Then had the rear discs and pads replaced and it still occasionally does this. Is there something I am missing?????? Who wants to drive a superb car like this and have everyone look at it for the wrong reasons!! Wheel Bolt Torque Specifications (TOC)...
View 19 RepliesI have an 1997 F150/4.2 V6/220,000 miles/4x2. During hot weather (over 90F) the engine slowly overheats. While driving on the interstate (from Indy to Fort Wayne), the coolant temperature shows normal on the gauge. Slowly the temperature gauge creeps up to close to the red area. I am running the A/C.
When I switch the heater on and the heater fan at max, the temperature gauge drops pretty quickly to a normal range. I switch off the heater and the A/C back on, then it takes 30 minutes for the temperature gauge to start rising again.
When I open the hood when the gauge shows close to the red area, the upper coolant hose has a lot of pressure (can not squeeze it), which would mean that the thermostat is open and the water pump is working. Also the fan is running fast.
The coolant was changed out a few weeks ago and the coolant level is at normal level when the engine is cold. At lower ambient temperatures, there is no overheating. I am puzzled what the problem can be. I am thinking of a restricted coolant flow.
Recently bought a 2003 Ranger Edge with 101,000 miles. Step side. Having trouble filling up with gas. Replaced the hose from the filler neck to the tank (the one with a 90 degree bend) still no luck. It was collapsed.
View 5 RepliesMy car is: Passat 1.9 PDTDI, 2003,AVB(101HP)(200.000km). This is my first diesel car, I bought it two months ago. The car has poor power under 1800-2000rpm. I push the throttle full down and my car accelerate slowly. At 1800-2000rpm kick out and accelerate very fast, but over 3000rpm the car goes limp mode.
2 months ago i had the following error msg: 17965 charge pressure control positive deviation p1557 - 35-10 intermittent.
My turbo was cleaned. No limp mode,but poor power under 1800 rpm.
Now, I have this error msg again. I logged the block 11 with vag-com. The duty cycle is 94,4(2500rpm).
The EGR is disabled. What is the problem? MAP? MAF? Actuator? Turbo?
What can cause shutter in 1998 f-150 4.6 4x4 4r70w when slowly accelerating?
View 5 RepliesI have 1998 F-150 and the heater core was replaced 18 months ago. All was going well until about 2 weeks ago I noticed under heavy acceleration I would smell antifreeze. The smell would clear up and would not re appear for a day or so. Finally the other day when it was 8 outside I got in the truck and got about 5 miles from the house started up a hill and it was like a fog machine was mounted behind my dash the windows fogged up almost immediately so I figured great the core went bad again. Now the temperature has warmed up the last couple of days and there is nothing no fog in the cab the heater works fine just an occasional slight smell of antifreeze. Before I go through the trouble of tearing out the dash is there anything I should check I already checked the connections on the firewall and they were fine.
View 5 RepliesWith the hood open and the hood light bulb pulled out, measured the parasitic draw on their truck? I checked mine because it appears my battery is slowly discharging if the truck sits 3 or 4 days. I got 0.24 amps which seems in line with running the clock memory and the computer. I have a feeling the battery is shot even though it is only 3 years old. When I bought the truck it had a ton of yellow fuzz on the terminals. That is cleaned up and with it running I get about 14.35 volts at idle so it is charging. 0.24 draw??
View 10 RepliesI Have A 2001 F 150 And I Have Just Noticed That On Cold Morning When The Temperature Is Below 35 That My Transmission Takes A While To Shift Into High. Sometime I Am Two To Three Miles Down The Road Before It Will Shift Into The Last High Gear. Is This Normal Or Should I Have This Checked Out? I Have 53,000 Miles On This Truck And Do I Need To Have The Fluil Changed An Serviced.
View 10 RepliesTranny rebuilt, truck in sig, and beefed up 2 1/2 years and 30K miles ago. Recently started going into D after 10 to 20 seconds after putting it in gear, cold or hot. Very frustrating, especially when trying to maneuver a trailer.
Transmission builder has been running his shop for 20+ years, all makes and models, not Ford specific. I choose him because he runs a local business, has a good reputation, and happens to live less then 1/4 mile from me.
I have searched the forums, and read where Mark says this is loose valve body bolts, or forward drum going out. Builder can't grasp where it would be drum seal if it doesn't do it all the time, which it doesn't. He said it sounds more like something electrical, but there are no codes stored on pcm.
Builder also said he would pull tranny to check drum. Does this sound like I'm moving in the right direction? Or can it be something else?
I have a 2000 SCrew KR F150. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal was slowly going to the floor while at a red light. I pulled over and popped the hood checked the fluid reservoir. It was full, so obviously no wheel cylinder issues or fluid loss. I haven't had a chance to tear into it yet.
View 14 RepliesHave a '02 f150 and thinking the heater core slowly dieing. Have noticed for several weeks a nice line of water leaking onto the passenger side floor. Do you have to take off the entire dash to get to it? Will be doing replacement myself as the dealer or shop would probably kill me on labor.
View 12 RepliesI had to replace injector cups due to diesel in the coolant. Then I had to replace the degas bottle because it was swollen and looked like the michelen man. Then I had to replace the radiator cap (again) because I suspect that the diesel in the coolant had dissolved the seal in the radiator cap and it wouldn't hold pressure. Now I've got a bunch of new parts in there.
I parked yesterday, popped the hood -- and heard the radiator cap slowly blowing off pressure. It was the type of sound that you hear when a tire has a slow leak. I tightened the cap and the sound didn't stop. I REALLLY tightened the cap to the point where I felt as if any more tightening would cause the threads on the degas bottle to strip, and the noise lessened.
Unless I'm mistaken, a radiator cap is supposed to hold pressure to 16psi and then release all at one time, not slowly bleed off pressure with a hissing noise.
Here is the critical info...1999 F-150 2wd supercab, 4.6 litre, Automatic, 138,000 mi
Recently, I had the upper control arms, upper ball joints, and lower ball joints replaced. They also did an alignment. Since then, the truck has had what seems to be a rough, jiggly ride. I can feel every little imperfection in the road, even when moving very slowly. I've also noticed that my doors sometimes rattle now (they didn't before the work was done). On the highway, sometimes it seems that a tire will get into a bouncing condition which can continue for quit awhile. It is also harder to keep the truck centered in the lane.
I went back to the same place that did the work and told them to double check everything, (which they did, found nothing wrong).
To try to fix this, I have...
replaced the shocks (new ones are bilstein)
balanced the tires
rotated the tires
checked air pressure (32 psi)
I don't know if the following facts have anything to do with anything, but... When I look at the upper control arm attachment points, there is a metal plate that is (I'm told) to keep the camber in the factory setting. This plate was removed on one side to adjust the camber away from the factory setting. Also, I don't see how the castor is controlled? Is there an adjustment for that. Can castor be to blame for any of this? Can cheap parts (control arm, ball joints) be to blame?
I have a 2001 ford f150 4x4 xlt and it seems to be shaking violently in first gear when I try to release the clutch slowly. The person i bought it from said he had a new clutch put in this year So i don't think its the clutch. What could be the cause of it before I take it in to be checked.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 F-150 4x4 with cruise control and 4-wheel disc. When I am at a stop light for a while, when holding the brakes, the pedal slowly begins to fade towards the floorboard. I have replace two master cylinders, the original and a reman and then put on a new Motorcraft one...all providing the same problem. I have been told by dealerships that it is my imagination or that this is a "normal" problem. Having my truck roll at a stop light while the brakes are applied is not normal.
View 8 RepliesRecently I started hearing a rattling/grinding metallic sound coming off the right rear while driving slowly. This sound is not reproduced when braking.At first it started while doing sharp right turns only, now its ever present while driving. I showed it to a mechanic he says rotors needs to be replaced. Is he right? 2003 Honda Accord V6....
View 7 RepliesI just got my new up pipes put on as well as a 38R and pulling a hill hard my truck will hit about 22 psi then drop off slowly I have an electronic boost fooler wich has been on the truck since new pretty much but I don't get a CEL at all is this what I should be getting and I was on the 80hp tune? I ordered new boots and plenum inserts they just haven't got here yet. I know I had a leak before on my old up pipes because they rattled every now and then and I could see exhaust coming out of them when it was cold out but I could hit about the same 22 boost with my old setup. So pretty much nothing changed boost wise except it gets up to boost faster now. I would say it's defueling but I was always told the CEL would come on if that was the case.
View 13 RepliesMy 2003 6.0 has a coolant leak. It leaks slowly while not running and more quickly while running. I have about an 8 mile drive to work every day, I can make it there and back without having to add coolant but I'm cutting it pretty close by the time I get home. In short I go from the max fill line to bone dry in about 24 hours.
With the truck running I can see water getting slung around all over the front of the engine but the majority of it seems to be coming from around the two larger pulleys in the middle. I've read that this can either be the crankshaft seal or the water pump, any way to know for sure? Any other possibilities?