Phaeton :: 1986 - Automatic Transmission Won't Go Into Reverse / Neutral
Aug 29, 2007
1986 S10 blazer automatic transmission won't go into reverse OR neutral! It goes fwd in both reverse and neutral. It goes into park just fine. The fluid is full and not burnt. It will drive forward when in reverse and in neutral. I turned the engine off and checked neutral, it was not in gear but tried to go forward as soon as I started the engine.
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1986 S10 blazer automatic transmission won't go into reverse OR neutral! It goes fwd in both reverse and neutral. It goes into park just fine. The fluid is full and not burnt. It will drive forward when in reverse and in neutral. I turned the engine off and checked neutral, it was not in gear but tried to go forward as soon as I started the engine. I have never seen this!
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Rebuild on the Mazda 5 speed transmission. My 1986 Ranger 2.3 Four cylinder has 280,000 miles and the clutch has never been replaced. It's not slipping but I'm having trouble getting it into gear from neutral. Was told that the release springs on the clutch plate have weakened causing the clutch to not release completely so figured it's time to replace it. It's done well the last 280,000 miles. The question I have : overhauling on one of these Mazda trans and how difficult was it. Any special tools required, etc...I see Autozone has a rebuild kit which appears to have bearings, seals and gaskets. Figured while it was out I would go ahead and rebuild it myself if I can. Rebuilt a few engines but never touched a trans.
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I notice my instantaneous gas millage goes up if I coast in neutral in my new Volvo V50; say when cruising up to stop lights or coming down a hill. I appear to be saving gas, but am I damaging my automatic transmission?
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So yesterday after running an errand I got home, after having dinner I was about to head out and, SURPRISE! The car wouldn't start... The engine doesn't turn, no lights on the gauges when inserting the key, no clicks.... the battery seems fine, as the radio works, the anti-theft/alarm works well, the 2nd key behaves the same way.
This morning, I called VW road side, the tow truck they sent couldn't take the car because it is in a tight spot and we can shift the car to neutral. We tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery without success... What to do??
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I have a relative that does this allot i didn't think was a good idea he said it don't hurt anything, and get better millage. Can this hurt anything, or actually improve mileage other than maybe coasting with it in gear? 2014 ram ....
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is it good practice to shift to neutral, while driving downhill on automatic transmission? the owner manual does not recommend, would like to know why.it makes sense to save gas, while doing this. (i used to do it while driving manual)
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I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy and until now we had little to no heat. In the morning when we first leave the house in the cold as we are speeding up we slip into neutral and we either have to pull over or shift the shifter into neutral and back to get it going again. We only notice this happening when it is very cold. How do we fix this before it becomes a bigger problem?
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I have an 06 sonata 4 cyl automatic.Today the transmission was slipping in first gear like the car was revving in neutral.Then after restarting the car it was completely normal. Code P0731 showed up.
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The Golf seems to be ''stuck'' in reverse. (Long story short, my gf backed up the Golf into the driveway and she wanted to re allign herself, she put it back in reverse and once done, shut the engine. Now, the Golf is 'stuck' in reverse' ....
When I try to turn the key on 'on' while applying the brakes, I tried to put in Park or Neutral, the stick won't budge one bit! I don't want to force it either.
What may have caused this and what can I do to get it 'out of reverse'?
Car: 2012 VW Golf 2.5, Automatic Transmission.
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I have been knocking my head against the wall trying to get an appointment for an ATF fluid and filter change with no success. The odometer reads 67000 miles.
Those VW tech don't want to touch it unless there is something wrong. Hard to believe. Changing ATF fluid and filter as preventive maintenance?
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Reverse stopped working after it's been driven for a while. It works when it's cold. I'm actually hoping this was caused by my stupidity (though it may have nothing to do with the problem). A while ago I wanted to change my oil, but opened the auto transmission plug instead. I decided to put new trans. fluid in it. I thought I would add trans fluid until I could see it on the dip stick. After the problem with reverse started I tried to again read dip stick but can't tell where the level is, so I decided to drain trans. fluid to measure it. Owner's Manual calls for 8.8 qts. Drained fluid measured only about 4 qts. I added more. Now it looks like dipstick shows it ~2 inches above the full/hot mark. Questions:
1) Would fluid level affect reverse and not forward (with which there is no problem)?
2) Is method of draining trans. fluid & measuring it a valid way of telling how much is in it, i.e. would all... or most... fluid drain out so the 8.8 qts. in the owner's manual should be added back in?
3) Am I misreading the dipstick? I've tried letting it set for 4 or 5 days, but still fluid seems to smear high on the dipstick.
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I got Ford C6 Transmission bolted up to a 460 in a 1978 Ford F250 4x4. I recently had put all new gaskets in it and I change the fluid. The day I put it all back in my reverse was trying to lunge forward, my natural was a 1st gear, and drive was working fine. Now recently my park throws itself into gear. I got no burnt fluid, the clutches were fine when I put it back in???? What could it be, I'm running out of options before I do a manual transmission swap.
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I'm a proud owner of 2005 Mustang GT, 4.6L with an automatic transmission. Intermittently for the last year or so (maybe once every 3 or 4 months) its been shuddering when in reverse. Today it ramped things up a notch. :-/ The shuddering was pretty dramatic when I was trying to back out of my driveway, I shifted into park for a moment, then back into reverse, and it seemed to be ok. Then when trying to back into a parking spot this afternoon at work (in a parking garage with a small incline) it lost power almost entirely in reverse, lightly pushing on the gas just caused the car to shudder and not move anywhere. I shifted into park, and then back into reverse and heard an audible "pop" (my windows were down, but they hadn't been earlier so I'm not sure if this happened in the morning) and the car did not want to reverse. Rather than risk further damage I decided that it was parked relatively ok (90% in the space, eh good enough) so I stopped.
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I'm having trouble with the automatic transmission in my 04' Elantra, it acted like the speed sensor was failing, but later the same day it lost all gears, forward and reverse. after turning the car off and sitting a while I started it back up and had gears again, but the trany is making noise. Fluid level is ok.
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I'm having problems with my automatic transmission in a 2002 Saturn SL. About 2 months ago I noticed a delay when I would put my saturn in reverse and it would sort of kick into gear after a few seconds (up to 10seconds sometimes). I wasn't worried much about this at first until another problem started happening. Between second and third gear it seems to be shifting slow/hard(?). I can feel where it wants to shift, but its slow to shift and actual revs high before shifting down. The problem doesn't always exist, and some days its more then others. We took it to get a transmission fluid/filter change and this didn't solve the problem. Took it back for a transmission diagnositc and GM told us we need to replace the transmission or do an overhaul. They didn't explain why really though- no clear answer. I've heard everything from the torque converter to a solenoid problem.
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I recently bought a decent looking 1999 f250 4x4 5.4 auto. It has no forward gears and will only move in reverse. I topped off the fluids and have found no leaks so far the cooler lines are crusty but dry. I am gonna need to swap this thing out or do some more trouble shooting if there may be a non rebuild issue to solve.
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I have a 1970 f250 with a factory 390 (vin verified) and a C6, I believe the transmission was rebuilt but have no way to verify. It works fine while cold and mildly warm. Once heat soaked it is very slow to shift (going from neutral to reverse can take almost 30 sec) and leaks profusely from the front. I can not tell exactly where the leak is. Could this be a case of just having too much fluid or is there a more serious concern? The dipstick does read high but level ground in my area is hard to come by so the accuracy can be questioned. If it does have to much fluid, do I just drain the pan, re-install and let it run till hot and replace fluid as needed or should I drain and replace with 3 qrts prior to starting?
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This transmission shifted smooth and strong through all gears until today when it stopped all of a sudden to engage either Drive or Reverse. No previous signs of slippage, hesitation, stalling or lack of power whatsoever.
We checked the linkage to the transmission and it works as intended, nothing loose or broken, everything is in place. If there was something slightly different with it from other similar vans we have then it had a slightly delayed engagement in Drive (it took a second to engage it after you moved the lever) - on all other vans we have the transmission go into Drive almost instantly.
Van is a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport/Chevrolet Lumina APV with the 3.1L V6 Chevy TBI engine with the 3T40 automatic transaxle. Where we should start tackling this issue?
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So here in Wisconsin for the last two weeks we have had nothing but ice. That being said, I have a '96 ranger 3.0L, automatic transmission, 4x4. 4 wheel is inoperable at the moment, that's a different story. Here's my question: with the ice, there has been a lot of tire spinning at high RPM's, the other day, I was again stuck on the ice and rocked back and forth had some pushers, thought we were getting somewhere but I went to shift gears and all of a sudden had nothing. No Reverse, Drive, OD, L, 2. Did I blow my tranny? There was no noise or grinding, but the OD light seems to blink. Is there something I can check or look at?
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I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
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