Peugeot :: 2005 - Stalled And Not Getting Fuel
May 15, 2016
My car is a: 2005 Peugeot 407 SW v6 Automatic It´s a European model.
Suddenly stalled yesterday and has not started since.
Fault codes: P0261, P0264, P0267, P0270, P0273, P0276: Cylinder Injector Circuit Too Low
P0336: Crankshaft position sensor "A" circuit range/performance
So, it´s not getting fuel. So perhaps the fuel pump broke down? Tried looking for a fuel pump reset button but did not find one. Apparently my model does not have one. Any clues to what i could do?
It also has the following pending fault codes: P0444 P0477 P0076 P0082
The OBD display for the fuel system says: Open loop due to system failure.
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i have a 2005 peugeot 206 1.4 hdi around 180.000 kms. Recently, the engine started to run very noisy and extremely vibrating/shaking, some kind of rapid ticking sound comes out of it (from the timing belt side i guess?). It totally gives me headaches on long trips. I've diagnosed the car 3 times at bosch services and other services and the device showed no errors or malfunctions. The problem gets more severe after long running times and high revs. several mechanics told me various things like,
It is okay nothing to worry with,injectors nozzles or valves may be corrupt,the timing belt system has to be replaced, gasket has to be replaced, eccentric shaft became unbalanced (really?)
There is totally no consistency among different comments. i am totally lost and don't know what to do.i filmed the engine at first start in the morning : [URL] .... The problematic noise can be heard distinctively starting from 00:06 mark, excessive vibration can be seen on engine block.
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I own two of the most hated cars on this show, a Renault Alliance and a Peugeot 505 V6. On the 505, the transmission was shifting pretty roughly, it was knocking hard. I bought another 505 for spares that was shifting smoothly. So this summer, I decided to spend 4 weekends on hard labor and I swapped the ZF automatic transmission from the rough car to the good one. After all that job, I didn't notice any real difference. So I guess it was the torque converter that I left on the engine?
Anyway, I decided that it will stay like that because I will rather take a bullet than drop this tranny again. Now yesterday, it was -30?C outside, after 3 months of storage outside, just for fun, I tried to start it. It started right on! So I let it warm up for few minutes then went for a little ride. Big surprise, it shifts very smoothly now in cold weather... So what's wrong? Wrong type of oil? I filled up with the one suggested in the owners manual!
'87 Peugeot 505 STX V6
'87 Renault Alliance DL
'70 Renault 16
'97 Volks Transporter T4 (Eurovan diesel).
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I have a 1991 Saturn SL1 that stalled and now will not start because it is not getting fuel. The odd thing is at the same time it stalled the turn signals and hazard lights quit working. Could this be an electrical issue? It will crank but not turn over.
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So, the fuel pump was replaced in june after the tank was run dry and it wouldnt turn over. Everything went fine with the pump replacement, except for the lights were dim and there was a short in the taillights after the battery was put back in. I found a severed wire to the taillights, which seemed to fix some of the problem and was going to replace the bulbs for the dimness that night. Drove to work then was going to drive to the grocery store with the girlfriend and when we pulled out of the driveway the truck stalled. We restarted it and it stalled and turn on 2-3 back to back before losing all power. Took the bed off to see if i missed anymore wires but everything looked fine. We pushed it into the garage and when i went to put it into park, the lights flashed and went off. What could be causing this?
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My car just stalled a few minutes after I started smelling fuel. I managed to get the car to a safe place and I realized that I was leaking fuel from the engine compartment. It seems as if the fuel is coming from a part of the fuel rail. This is the area where the leak was coming from....the orange/yellow plastic thing in the middle is where the fuel is dripping from.....
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4l. The CEL came on a couple days ago, but there were no driveability symptoms, and my code reader was 2 hours away, so I didn't pull the codes.
Today, I left for work and pulled onto the freeway, I went to pass a vehicle, and rolled on the throttle (maybe 60%) l and the truck fell flat. I backed out of the throttle, checked the gauges, all looked good, so I tried again. The second attempt ended the same as the first, it fell flat and felt much like a APP/TPS correlation/limp mode.
Before I had a chance to even think, it bucked a couple times and stalled (felt like running out of fuel). I coasted to the side of the road and tried to restart. When the ignition is on, the dash lights come on as expected, when turned to the start position the relay under the dash clicks, but it doesn't crank, and the starter solenoid does not click.
I have checked the starter and PCM relays. Both are good. I have not disconnected the battery or started pulling fuses as I want to retrieve the codes first. I am able to turn the engine over with a pry bar.
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Yesterday, for the first time ever, car had to be towed to the dealership for some major problem. My dad was driving to work with his car , a 2003 GLS V6, and suddenly it stalled in the middle of the road. Turns out it was the fuel pump that caused it. Never mind the expenses which is ridiculously high and can't do anything about it (yes, i'm loyal to my dealer). His car had 129399kms on it plus a km to the dealer and mine had 70136km for a 2002 GLS V6.
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I have a 2005 Pontiac Grand Am that won't start. It was working fine. Then one day, it half started and stalled and won't restart. It will crank over and there is fuel getting to the injectors. If I shoot in starter fluid, it will start for a second and die.
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I have a 2007 F550 with a 6.0. Truck started running real rough and stalled. I was able to start it back up after a bit but within a few blocks it did the same thing. Was very similar to problems I had with clogged fuel fuel filters before I changed the tank to a plastic one. I pulled the filter and housing on the rail and cleaned and replaced the filter. There was no debris in there. Changed the filter on top of the engine too. Cycled the key 5-6 times. I could hear the pump running but the filter housing on top of the engine did not fill up; all I saw was a very little bubbling and gurgling sound.
I opened the drain on the rail filter housing and a little fuel came out but not as much as it should have. Cap is tight, don't see where I could be sucking air. I'm thinking the pump may be shot? Only other thought I had was maybe I switched the plugs on the housing on the rail but I really don't think I did. There are 2 plugs on the right hand side. Black plug is plugged into the lower position parallel to the ground while the gray plug is in the higher position.
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When I started the car the check engine light came on. Since there had been a lot of rain recently, I thought that perhaps it was an electrical malfunction since the performance of the car did not seem to be affected. I was only a few miles from home and going at a constant speed on the highway. When I slowed down to get off at my exit I noticed that the car wasn't getting up to gear with the same power as it had been. By the time I had to slow down for five or six stop signs, the car was having a lot of trouble getting up to speed, and at the stop sign before my drive way, it stalled and wouldn't start (although it always sounds like it's just about to turn over). The mechanic is suggesting an engine flush and tune up, but both seem a little excessive, especially the engine flush.
2005 Hyundai Sonata (manual transmission)....
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Just got this injectors done. Filled the tank up. Drove for 1/4 of a tank. Went to leave out yesterday. Made it out of my subdivision and down the road 3 miles or so. I was going 55 when the truck stalled. I tried to start the ignition it would turn over, but wouldn't catch to stay running. I did this at least 8 times. Friend came with Ether. Tried 3 separate times, truck started going dead. So i was about to give up... Tried it 1 last time, it fired up like a champ!
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I have a 2005 gen 2 Prius, 106k miles. Recently in Florida, we had a heavy rainstorm, and I happened to drive it through a flash flooded road. Water was deep enough to reach my headlights. I was out within 10 seconds, then had my car towed. There was a clicking sound and white smoke (steam?) coming from under the hood. The car would start, and I could drive it if I wanted to. After talking to a mechanic, he said to let it sit for 30 minutes with the engine on. Like magic, it started to work like normal, check engine light went away.
Drove fine for 2 days, then the check engine light came back on. Had the codes read at autozone: P0103, and P0031. One day later, my car stalled out while I was driving, and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. Red triangle, yellow exclamation, brake, abs, "problem" on mfd, etc. This site has saved me before, so I came on and thought it could be the MAF sensor. I cleaned it with MAF cleaner, but no luck. I order a new sensor, still no luck. My car stalls out seconds after starting it up. I cleaned my throttle body, still nothing.
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I have a 2005 Corolla with 78,000 miles. The other day it stalled at a stop sign and wouldn't start. I got it towed to the repair shop and they called me the next day with the following:
1. Under the back seat is a fuel compression module. This has gone bad. They need to take out the seat, order the part, install new.
2. The belt that drives the accessories motor (or something like that, don't recall the exact phrasing) is worn, cracking, and probably going to break. Needs replacing. Battery is corroding and needs replacing.
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Three weeks ago I started my truck as usual in the garage and let idle for couple minutes. Backed out of garage and accelerated, then it stalled, started again and drove about 150-200 feet and stalled again. This repeated two more times and then I decided I better try and "limp" back to the house. It has been in at the service dept. for three weeks now and they first told me it was the fuel pumps. Now they say its the fuel transfer pump, don't know if there is a difference.
My service dept has no straight.
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So, my 2005 Gen II Prius went for a scheduled service on Wednesday, 70k miles, Toyota main dealer. They called and said it needed new front brake pads and disks, I was surprised but gave the go ahead. There would occasionally have been a mild squealing sound from the brakes at very low speed so I accepted the pads might need replacing, I was surprised the disks needed replacing but it hard to argue about brakes, especially as I only have the car a year (I'm the second owner and it has a full Toyota service history). It had a "major" service, new spark plugs, new front brake pads and disks.
Since collecting it I've noticed that the engine seems to kick in more often and needs higher revs. The fuel consumption seems higher, normally mid 50's MPG (imperial gallon) now 35MPG. However it hasn't been driven many miles since its been serviced so its a low distance for calculating MPG. I've also noticed that the car seems to slow more quickly without applying the brakes, a regularly driven hill that I coast down at 48kph now only gives 35kph. Also, if I drive on a flat road for a mile or 2 and coast to a stop the front brake disks feel VERY hot, way too hot to touch, drivers side more so that passenger side.
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Yesterday, I turned on my car and got a message on my dash telling me to check my fuel cap. I did, and it was fine. The message still didn't go away, so when I got to work, I actually unscrewed my cap to check and make sure everything looked normal. At this point, I noticed that the metal flap that usually covers the opening of the gas tank was gone. After showing this to my neighbor, he said that it looks like there's actually an entire component missing from the mouth of the tank, and not just the flap.
I'm guessing that, the last time I got gas, this part of my gas tank went with the nozzle when I took it out. How I didn't notice this is beyond me. Unfortunately, the last time I got gas, I was 100 miles away from home.
My question is, am I in for a nauseatingly expensive repair here? Is it possible to just replace that one part, or am I going to end up replacing a whole lot more? I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet because I'm trying to go in armed with some knowledge about what can be done here.
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The fuel gauge on my 2005 is getting noisy. On start up when I turn the ignition and the gauge goes from empty to full, it makes a gear noise as if it needs some lube. The problem is that these are closed clusters and as far as I know I would not be able to apply lubricant inside.
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Does a 2011 Avalon have a fuel filter and if it does where is it located? How often should it be changed?
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I just purchased a 2005 Malibu Maxx about three months ago; it only has 19,000 miles on it. The fuel gauge never goes beyond 3/4 when I fill up. It does go down as I drive, so it seems to be working other than not registering full. A friend suggested trying Seafoam. Is this fuel gauge problem something to worry about? Or should I just keep driving and not worry about it?
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I have a 2005 Prius that I purchased in 2010 as the second owner. When I first got it, I would average 50-65 MPG depending on city vs. interstate (per trip computer). After about a year, I was usually in the 40's. However, in the past 6 months or so, the MPG has dipped drastically. Based on the trip computer, I average about 30 MPG on the interstate and 15-20 MPG in the city. I have read that often times, a dip in MPG signals a need to change the 12V. I tested the 12V, and it's usually around 12.4V after sitting unused for 12+ hours.
More info: -The poor MPG is consistent whether it's 95, 65, or 35 degrees outside.
-Flat terrain (Washington, DC)
-Usually shorter trips of about 20-25 minutes.
-75% city, 25% highway. Highway driving is pretty smooth, little traffic, average of 55 MPH. City driving is incredibly stop and go due to traffic, constant stop signs and red lights, etc., with probably an average of 15 MPH when I'm actually driving.
-No overfilled oil.
-Had an alignment maybe 8 months ago - nothing unusual about the drive or tire wear.
-Goodyear Viva 2 Tire P185/65R15, maybe 15k miles put on them. Tire pressure unknown at the moment.
-I drive like a grandma in D mode.
-I don't warm up the ICE.
-HVAC is off.
-In terms of whether any significant changes occurred around time I noticed the drop: none. I was living in Florida at the time, doing a highway commute of about 2 hours roundtrip every day with a small bit of city driving when the mileage drop occurred. I have since relocated to DC, and the problem is the same.
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