Anybody have any issues with this? I have a week old r-line and had the epc light come on, turbo seems to spool heavily with little throttle input and seems a bit sluggish.
View 6 RepliesWith the windows down today I notice that the turbo spool sounds like a damn laser. Boost leak or bearing. That is the question.
View 20 RepliesI have noticed that when I have my ac on, I can hear the turbo spool and release noise (pshh sound) more prominently. I drive a 2011 GTI MT. Car is bone stock.
I was just curious to see if this is normal or indicative of a boost leak? If it was a boost leak, would there be a CEL?
My car is Stage 2+ (mods are in signature). I noticed today a hissing noise coming from the rear of the car when my music was turned off. The sound is very similar to turbo spool but I'm 100% positive it is coming from the rear of the car not the bay. The noise does not show up until I hit 3rd gear and from then up it only makes noise when I'm accelerating. Under any load the noise stays the same. I can accelerate slow or accelerate a little harder and the hissing noise remains constant. The only two things that I can think of are the flapper valve on the SPM exhaust and the rear diff. However, I don't see why the flapper valve on SPM's exhaust would be affected by a certain gear.
View 4 Replies2003 Jetta 1.8T. My car has an issue when you're driving and want to take off. I try to step on it and the car gets stuck. There isn't a CEL and one doesn't flash while it happens. The turbo attempts to spool and then gets stuck almost like sputtering and then misfires. "Sputtering" can last anywhere from a second to until you let off the gas. If you slowly climb through the revs it doesn't do it but if you punch it you're guaranteed to get stuck. I don't have a boost gauge to see if it's spiking but I'm running out of money, time, and options. I've had my car at my normal shop and they can't figure it out and the dealer techs are stumped too. Oil was changed last month and I did a seafoam treatment before I changed the oil.
Mods:
- CAI
- Unitronic Stage 2
- 225 TT DV
- Techtonics 2.5" DP with high flow cat followed by 2.5" straight pipe
- ST Coilovers Maxed out
- Corvette Sawblades 17x9.5 square with 38mm and 33mm adapters. Front and rear tires are different tread, and size. Fronts are all season 205/40/17 and rears are a summer 215/45/17
- Fresh wheel bearings and custom Porsche 930 Chromoly axles
Things that we've tried:
- New MAF
- Flashing back to stock and reinstalling the file as welling as trying lesser flashes (stage 1, 1+)
- New plugs
- New coil packs
- New throttle body
- Boost leak test (no leaks)
- Front o2 sensor
- New crank position sensor
- Throttle body position sensor
- New N75 valve
It started after a blue spring upgrade. my turbo would not spool until we revved the engine hard then it kicked in and it's kinda worked since then.. it feels like the truck is struggling on acceleration and the boost builds fast up to 30lbs, the EBP seems to be stuck at 21.48psi until your in 3rd then it jumps and I have power again, also the turbo dumps (farts) if I let off even a little until the EBP jumps then no issues. I replaced the sensor and it's stuck at 21.48 all the time.
Now, I unplug it and it jumps between 26 and 28psi, plug in the old sensor while it's out laying on the motor (not installed) and right back to 21.48. I don't know where to go with this and it's my only truck so I need it running. also it was blowing the intercooler boot off at the turbo during a normal acceleration and the turbo spool has a howl to it when EBP is stuck...
Daughters car is throwing this code of 17705 VW (1297) saying it is a "Pressure Drop Between Turbo And Throttle Valve" Car runs rough until about 2500 RPM. Replaced the pressure switch by the intercooler.
View 1 RepliesOk first of all i know this sounds really stupid. I got curious of the intake system and I unbolted the tube that does down to the (turbo i think) anyways I figured it was the intake for the engine. Anyways I went for a quick little drive, and it was not the intake for the engine it was the for the turbo. The turbo sounded pretty loud and made a whoosh when the throttle was released. Cool. 2 min later the car shut off i started it back up drove home, and put every back the way it was suppose to be! and there is a check engine light. My question is... How do I reset the light myself instead of the dealer doing it, I thought i remembered how to do it somehow without anything. Btw was doing that anyway harmful?
View 4 RepliesI took my car in for the 10,000 mile service on friday. The tech noted that there is an active TSB for the 1.8 TSI engine that addresses an issue with the turbo engaging just before the shift from first to second gear resulting in a non-progressive throttle response. I told him that I didn't seem to really notice that issue, but to go ahead an install the software update anyway. He did. I'm surprised at the difference. The throttle is much more progressive and I feel like I have better control of the throttle. I highly recommend this update. This may also explain why the 2015 Passats with the same engine have a higher MPG rating than the 2014s. If this update prevents the turbo from coming on unnecessarily then that would certainly save on gas.
View 21 RepliesFirst ever failure with a Toyota. We limped home at 25mph this morning. No response with throttle pedal input, but the throttle body did operate in fail safe mode. Throttle pedal checks out with omhs check across the terminals per Toyota manual. I'm looking at having the car transported 45 miles to nearest dealer. I can change the tb out myself but not sure of the electronics. Does the computer have to be programed for a new tb?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Jetta 2.0 with the drive by wire throttle and I've been having some problems with it lately.
When on the highway (at a constant speed) sometimes it's almost like you take your foot off the accelerator pedal, then when you go to press it more, nothing happens, until you pump it a few times, it works again. This sounds like an electrical problem to me, not fuel or spark, because it's not sputtering at all, it just ignores your accelerator input. Is the "throttle module" a serviceable part?
I recently took a long drive, and on 2 occasions, I heard the engine revving up when just simply cruising steadily at 70-80mph with little throttle input. I checked the LCD screen drive-train diagram, and there's no indicated of the engine turning during the revving. The car does not accelerate during the revving. Happens say for 10 - 20 seconds each time. To stop the revving, I simply give it a bit of throttle. I'm not on Cruise Control. Its a strange feeling, and I hope this isn't connected to the runaway Prius syndrome.
View 14 RepliesMark IV GTI. Neuspeed intake, chip, exhaust. The situation is...
When driving enthusiastically, harder, and sportingly, the car runs beautifully!
When driving normally, such as highway cruise or lower speeds with a consistent throttle input, the power will cut-out. Then the max boost pressure will be approximately 3 psi until the key is cycled. Then normal chipped operation resumes. Since it is difficult to drive hard all the time, this circumstance comes up often.
There is a new N75 recently installed. The situation does NOT set off the check engine light.
I have noticed according to the boost gauge readings, it tends to happen between 10 inHg to 0 psi. Above or below that, don't recall it happening.
2002 Elantra auto trans issue.
We are experiencing NO throttle after the car sits over night. But Not every time. When I write "NO throttle" the car will start but will not increase rpms with pedal input/movement. Runs at idle only. After a few minutes, it picks up the pedal input and is fine until is sits over night, sometimes.
I have changed out the TPS and no change. The car has just over 80000 miles and otherwise runs like a champ. There is no check engine light or any stored codes. The cable rotates freely at the TB. I read in the forums that the TPS replacements can be suspect.
I got in a work truck yesterday, sat down, put my seat belt on and started the truck. Just as I did that another employee drove by and waved, all I could do was nod back at him because my hand was still starting the truck. This took my attention away for a split second, then as I put the truck in gear, my foot still on the brake, I noticed that the tachometer was pegged and the engine was racing. I instinctively pushed harder on the brake pedal, then looked down to be sure that I was pushing on the brake pedal and I was. Right then then rear of the truck started shaking violently and as fast as I could I turned the key off and put it back in park. This all happened in about 1 second, maybe 2.
The shaking was caused by the sheared off driveshaft. And it was sheared off because the center section of the rear differential had broken the spot welds that hold it and place and rotated on the axel housings. It is now pointing upward towards the bed of the truck. Have a drive by wire truck run the engine at wide open throttle with no input from the pedal? 2010 F150 4.6L...
Today and yesterday day mark the first time since I have owned my truck, that I have really taxed it with a load or serious work.
I have 8126, miles to date, and hadn't felt this annoying and somewhat pronounced shudder at throttle- tip in. Only from a dead stop. I'm doing some work to my house, so as I type this I have about 700-800lbs in my box. I've never felt this shudder empty as I do with a load, and starting out on an incline.
It feels like the rear is rolling over a "rumble strip" for the first few feet of throttle input, between 5-10 mph and then smooth everywhere else.
Rob- if your reading this, I can't remember if your shudder was similar, or if yours did it empty or only when towing or hauling a load.
Whats under here that can be causing my car to smoke? During the week I dont drive it much just because I drive and take home my work truck, but when I start it up and let it run it smokes pretty heavily, right under the coolant tank but more to the rear. Other then a valve gasket what else could this be? Also comes from that opposite side but not as heavy.
View 3 RepliesI wanted to move my car to the other side of the street just now and when started the engine up, motor started to vibrate/shake heavily and few seconds later "check engine" light popped up on my dash. Turned the car of right after that, restarted it again and motor seems to be working fine now but the light is still there. Car was parked for the last two days and it was around 22 degrees outside.
I'm going to schedule an appointment with the dealership for tomorrow first thing in the morning just trying to find out if i can drive it to the dealer or call VW assistance and get it towed to the dealer. Like i said car seems to be driving normally now as i drove it anyway for about two minutes, it's just that light that's ON at all times now (not blinking)
Getting new tires very soon. I noticed this wear pattern on my front tires. The heavily worn part is on the inside of both front tires. Is this normal wear for our cars (I do go around the turns pretty fast) or should I have an alignment done once the new tires are on?
The link might not be working, try this one? [URL]
I just installed the BSH turbo inlet pipe as well as the Neuspeed P-Flo intake.
Install was pretty simple, the only things that gave me trouble were those stupid clamps on the inlet of the turbo and on the maf, just because they are a pain in to get off ..but anyway im very impressed with it so far. It looks great and high quality. It sounds amazing! Not too loud that it gets annoying, but still gives that p hhhhh sssss sound that everyone loves.. The turbo sounds much meaner and there seems to be a significant increase in throttle response. At first i didnt really notice much power gains, but after driving it for about two days, i've noticed that my top end is a lot better and it pulls alot harder on the freeway and in 6th gear.
I also installed the forge diverter valve yesterday and like everyone says, its not much louder than with the stock diverter but it did gave the intake more of a flutter sound.
I have a mkv r32 turbo. It had C2 910cc software, car ran great. I had to change to UM 870cc software and injectors in order to get UM dsg stage 3 tune. I had it out for test ride, ran nicely for 2 miles. Then i started to increase throttle, a loud back fire, so i pulled over. It stalled, i restarted it, ran for about 5 secs at 14.5 afr, then sputtered to 10s afr, the stalled out completely.
Had it towed home, all 6 plugs were black. VCSD mobile log states multiple misfire and misfire #6. I put new plugs and switched coil packs, same issue.