I bought 2013 Passat TDI 5 weeks ago and passed 2600 miles already, just curious when the 1st oil change should be, my dealer told me that it scheduled at 10,000 miles is that normal?
View 24 RepliesWas having some issues with my 2000 Passat not starting after only being turned off for a short period of time (long periods of time no problem). My check engine light came was on along with the Emissions Workshop message in the display. I took it in and had it serviced at my local repair shop. They said it was something with a temperature gauge or something to that effect that was causing it to lose a temp reading. Anyways, after the repair the car starts fine, runs great, the check engine light went off and so did the Emissions Workshop display. Then a few days later it came back on...still not having any issues with it starting but what's going on??
View 7 RepliesI just purchased a new Prius a couple days ago. When is the first scheduled maintenance interval? My dealership told me 10,000 miles for the first oil change? I've always been under the impression that you need to do the first service as soon as possible with a brand new vehicle? To rid the oil off metal shavings and break-in oil.
View 11 RepliesHow often do I need to get new shocks and struts - I've been told mine are weak Car is 10 yrs old with 165,000 mi.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS. This past month, the A/C tends to stop cooling for a period of time. I took it to one shop and they recycled the freon, but the problem continued. I took it to another shop and they also recycled the freon. It is worse when the outside temperature is over 95 degrees. Additionally, the second shop hooked it up to a computer and said the computer is telling them that the car is getting hot and shutting down the compressor, but the air conditioning system is fine. The car is not overheating. They proposed changing the thermostat for a huge price so I declined.
I've read online that it is possible that this could be caused by a thermister or a low pressure sensor and am considering taking the car to an auto electric shop for diagnosis. What else this could be? The radiator was replace a few months ago.
The problem I'm having with this vehicle is that, it will start up just fine most of the time if I just hop in my after and haven't drove it for a while, however after I drive lets say 20 min+ and then decide to turn the car off and go back to turn it on, it just wont, it will turn over and its getting power but it won't follow through to start the engine, took it to a place by my house for 3 days and they said its probably the fuel filter but they couldn't give me a straight answer, what it most likely is? Its a 2001 Ford Taurus...
View 6 RepliesMy 07 LE with the 2.5 has 151K on the odometer. It is an oil burner and now wants to stay on fast idle for an extended period of time. I live in the cold country so I know it will run fast at start up but it is alot longer then it used to be. It isn't working for the oil burning at all! Regarding the oil issue I tried running Pennzoil full synth and it drank it down like water! Is this a sensor problem if so which one would I look into changing.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner that is experiencing some minor (major?) difficulty shifting properly. The truck is an automatic and stalls occasionally. Before stalling, the transmission shifts normally through all four gears, after is stalls, it only shifts through first or second for a period of time before it once again begins to shift through all four gears properly. If it stalls again, the whole process begins anew.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2002 Grand Cherokee with 225,000 miles (hooyah!) on an I-6 . After driving for long distances (at least an hour on the road) then idling for extended periods of time, it seems it starts misfiring. RPMs drop to about 500 and will not rev past 1200 without dying completely.
This has happened a few times in the following scenario:We have 3 kids and often visit family out of state. We'll drive for several hours before pulling off at a rest area. To minimize the amount of time spent off the road and to save the hassle of unloading/loading all the kids, we'll leave the car running (to keep heat/cool air in) and either myself or my wife will run in to use the restroom and get snacks. The vehicle may idle for 10 minutes before the issue presents itself. It seems that if we turn the vehicle off and rest for a few (3-5) minutes, the problem will resolve itself and we can be on our way with no more issues.
Check Engine light is on but only throws a code for an EVAP leak. I don't know a whole lot about cars. I thought it could be time to replace spark plugs but this issue doesn't happen often and it seems only in these specific circumstances.
I notice a bad smell when I start my 2011 ES350for a short period of time. After that it is fine. Auto has just over 10,000 miles on it. E mail from dealer tells me filter needs changing. Somehow I believe there is more to it.
View 14 RepliesRecently purchased my first Prius, it's the v wagon.
When accelerating from a stopped position in eco mode there's a relatively severe drivetrain shutter/vibration for a a short period of time until I back off the throttle, almost feels like a clutch slipping with added vibration.
It's probably a normal noise produced by this style transmission, just looking to verify if this is true so I can stop worrying about it.
Currently own a 2001 vw golf gls 2.0 with 223000 kms on it. used specifically as a beater car. Noticed that it has all of a sudden started to make a creaking sound when it has run for a long period of time. Stops when you hit a speed of around 50 kms/hr.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 F150. When parked for a period of time, it kills the battery. It flashes the lights on and off as though the remote were locking and unlocking the doors and after a couple of weeks there is not enough juice in the battery to start the truck. Ford has been unable to find the problem, they replaced the headlight switch which did not correct the problem.
View 1 RepliesMy wife had the misfortune of the horn sounding each time the signal was turned on. Solved problem by not using signal... However, the horn still went off after the truck had been turned off for an extended period of time (long enough for her to leave and not hear the horn until returning a couple hours later). She was able to stop the horn by placing the vehicle in neutral (manual transmission). I have not been able to reproduce the problem. I thought it may be the "relay integration", but after removing this from the vehicle the signal does not work, but the horn still works. Is there a relay, switch, etc. that controls both of these devices?
View 1 Repliesbeen off and on having problems with my r/f speaker cutting out, not completely-i get a little noise from it. ive replaced the speakers in the front but found since i have the audiophile system, they sounded terrible. i removed what i believe to be a crossover from the factory speaker & reinstalled the crossover with the factory connector & tweeter, but spliced in the new 6x8s. this made it sound wonderful again. now i still seem to be having the problem and found if i unplug the radio and plug it back in it will work good again for a short period of time.
my question is can i use any ford radio that looks like it is the same, I like the ones with the chrome on thje. Or should i just get a kenwood or something. i dont want to spend a ton of money. and will an aftermarket head unit decrease sound quality since i have the audiophile as the speakers originally did without the crossover.
I have a 2016 F350 Powerstroke fully deleted for about 3k miles. Truck was running perfectly then out of no where started running like crap and had very minimal power 500-2000rpm. Once 2000rpm hit, turbo spooled up and made power. Very odd. I cleaned out back pressure sensor, map sensor and hoses. No fix. Did a hard reset and the truck ran fine again and had low end power.
Ever since then I started hearing very odd fluttering sounds coming from what I think is the turbo. Also noticed my OEM boost gauge doesn't work. No reading from it.
The flutter only comes on when the truck goes under load for a short period of time and then I let off the throttle. It seems to running fine other then that and maybe a little bit more sluggish then normal. Any things I can check before I put it back to stock and bring it to the dealer?
MODS:
NO Limit EGR Delete
Flo-Pro 5" Straight
S&B Intake
SCT Livewire w/ custom tunes
Also, I had a lot of problems with my live wire software. I have to send it back to SCT to get warranty problems fixed which I'll be sending out Monday. They think my tuner is stuck in demo mode for some off reason.
I got a 02 b5.5. Its a 1.8t once it runs for a while and i have to shut it off to get gas or stop for a quick period of time it wont start and smells like fuel.once it starts it floods. It keeps coming up with a coolant temp sensor code and a o2 code and i have replaced the coolant sensor with a green one and the thermostat. And I also replaced the n80 valve.i also did a tune up and did the valve cover gasket. i have two doing the same exact thing one with a v6 and the other is a 4cyl...
View 1 RepliesI was wondering if the timing belt on my 05 RX 330 needed to be changed due to age and not miles. The car only has 72k miles on it but it is 10 years old.
View 5 RepliesI have a 3/4 ton chevy silverado. It has 106,000 miles. I have not had the transmission fluid changed yet. I've read it is best to change fluid between 60,000 and 100,000 miles and to change this every 30,000 miles. I've also heard that if I have not had this changed prior to 60,000 miles that it is too late to change this now. Is this correct? Recently, I've noticed the transmission slips when shifting geers(this is automatic transmission). What do you recommend.
View 9 RepliesCar needed a new battery, second year in a row--beside the point. But it had been smelling hot and smoking like for ever since I could remember even on short drives. The mechanic said oil was all over and had to wash it all inside. It doesn't use much oil, but I did add some occasionally when I used to drive a lot. In Nov., he changed oil and overfilled about 1/2 qt at least. He thought all ok and no problem--no major leak or anything, but it still smells hot and the oil looks black and I have driven it very little and oil is at fill still as overfilled. I am estimating maybe 500 to 1000 miles driven would be TOPS. Should it be so black? The CHANGE oil light comes and stays on. I know time wise, it is time to change the oil, but it is hardly driven. Is the light controlled by time and not usage (mileages)? Should I be concerned with the black color and change light since I hardly drove it? Is it ok to drive a couple hundred till I can get it in to change? I have a trip to take.
View 2 Repliesi just bought a used 2006 scion xB (owned in Phoenix by a nice old lady since new) with only 14k miles in immaculate condition. I thought I had a gem, but I discovered the oil change history exceeds manufacturer time recommendation of every 6 months: changes occurred at 7 months, 17 months, 8 months, 15 months, and 11 months. Mileage recommendation is every 5000 miles; oil was changed after 2000, then 4500, 1500, 2800, and 3600. i read that oil oxidizes over time and if left in the engine for longer than recommended and used on short trips causes internal engine deposits, corrosion and sludge? If I now change the oil more frequently than recommended will it remove any such bad stuff? Should I be worried?
View 4 Replies