Passat (B7) :: Strange Vibration That Varies In Intensity Depending On Speed And Road Surface
Feb 14, 2016
I'm battling an odd suspension issue...over the last 5-7,000 miles, I've had a strange vibration issue surface that has varied in intensity depending on speed and road surface. I've had a damaged wheel trued, replaced all four tires and had all four wheels/tires RFV balanced. The vibration has changed but not quite gone away. Instead, it's been joined by an increased vagueness in directional stability (tendency to wander) at highway speed.
Last week, the tech balancing my tires said he felt my right hand front rear control arm bushing was worn. The more I've thought about this, the more I'm wondering if this is what might be the source of this mystery vibration issue. So, I really have two questions?
First, bad front CA rear bushing replaced under warranty? 15,000 miles does NOT seem like an acceptable service life for a suspension bushing? Do these bushings have a history of premature wear and failure, or am I just lucky?
Second, if I do have to replace one or both bushings (left and right pt. no. 5C407183A,) I'd like to ask if the solid bushing (pt. no. 1J0407181) from a Jetta or Beetle will work in a Passat control arm? If I do have to replace the bushing, it might be better to put a more solid piece of rubber in there instead of the flimsier original part.
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I replaced the timing belt an waterpump at 262,000 miles and ever since the engine makes a loud low pitch noise that varies in pitch depending on the engine speed. I replaced the alternator and it didn't work. I don't know if the power steering pump, a/c compressor or something else is making this awful sound.
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I have been reading about some folks are having those vibration at certain speeds... Recently I also started noticing some strange vibrations... It happens when I am accelrating and driving on curved road at speed 100KM and up... I still cannot detect the source of these vibration as sometime it feels from steeing column or front suspension frame... All I can say its really annoying. Also, mechtronics valve body soon will be replaced as it is driving my DSG really insane.
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My 2012 RX350 now for over a year and like it a lot.........BUT.
There's seems to be a lot "road noise" that's transmitted back into the cabin, like driving over expansion joints on blacktop or rough road surface, is this normal?
I drove a 2000 RX300 for 100,000 miles and don't remember it being this noisy. Interior noise is great and quiet.
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My son owns a 2000 BMW 328i... sporadically, and without warning, the motor will speed up at idle, going from 600 rpm to 1200 rpm, then down to 700 rpm, then back to 600 rpm. This happens intermittently, when the motor is warmed up...
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I have a strange noise that occurs at both highway and surface street speeds. On surface streets at low speeds 45 mph and under, if I let off accelerator to coast and lightly step on accelerator I get this quick sharp noise.
Everything I have read regarding a similar noise is under load and being described as a turbo fart. Clearly I am not under any load. I'm lost.
Definitely not a low woooo noise. Also not a hard accel and release and definitely no chuckle and or popping. The sound is high pitched and quick, roughly .5 to 1 second at most. The sound is more like a "zzzrrp" or "zzzoop". I can replicate the sound 50% of the time easily at speeds under 45 mph by briefly coasting (no accelerator) and lightly tapping the accelerator and releasing or holding. Occasionally this sound will occur at full stop when I step off of the brake pedal and before I step on the accelerator. This sound can also occasionally be heard at highway speeds under similar accelerator conditions though it may be more frequent and I just don't notice it.
Would this condition throw a code? Just received "Total Ford Scan Tool Package Enhanced Bundle SP03" scanner from autoengenuity. Hoping to put it through its paces tomorrow.
Additional info: 145k miles. Injectors serviced by a reputable diesel shop here in Vegas approximately 1.5 years ago. Unknown oil leak where oil is collecting in the valley on top of the engine beneath the turbo. HPOP seals were replaced roughly 1 year ago at another reputable diesel shop here in Vegas. Still have an oil leak (turbo related?) Oil is under 500 miles old and acceptable level. Fuel filter is due for a change but that does not seem to affect condition. Air filter 1000 miles. Thinking about upgrading to AIS severe duty kit soon.
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While I am driving, when I hit 25-45 MPH, the wheel suddenly rotates clockwise ~20 degrees while the path of the car stays pretty straight. There is some play at lower speeds too, but the the 25-45 MPH shift is the most dramatic. I have a video here where I am applying minimal grip to the wheel, so the rotations you see (especially ~9 seconds in) are not me. The sound is an item on my passenger seat, so that is unrelated.
I checked out the suspension and the front left control arm has some give at the bushing/joint, but that strikes me as a side issue. Everything else feels sturdy in the suspension. Anything else I can do to diagnose? I suspect this has something to do with the power steering which I have never dealt with before. 1999 ES300....
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I have a 2000 vw 2.8 v6.
I got it back in February and it ran great up until now. A couple months ago while driving home my cel started flashing and right when the light came on I could immediately feel an immense loss in power and when I got to a red light it would shake like mofo. Gettin up to speed was suddenly a huge problem and the car would make a strange noise and I could smell a strong odor of gas and slight oil. I have a valve cover gasket leak that I paid 300 bucks to replace but after a week I realized it's still leaking oil so that 300 bucks just went out the window. The sluggish performance and cel went away the next time I drove the car and it ran awesome for over a month till one day while I was on my way home from grabbing some lunch it all of a sudden started happening again. Sluggish performance, smell of gas and slight oil, wouldn't get up to speed.
I brought it to my local vw dealership to have it looked at yesterday figuring that they'd be able to tell me exactly what was going wrong. I got a call early this morning saying that the oil leak in my valve covers are causing my coil pack to short out and foul my plugs and wires and then told me it was going to cost 1,700 bucks with all the parts and labor. I'm not very mechanically inclined when it comes to vehicles so it's not like I can do the work myself but my main question is, how can the oil cause the coil pack to short out seeing that oil is not conductive and some cars actually use oil to cool the packs down. Is that a legitimate diagnosis or is the dealership mechanic Actually right or is he just getting creative trying to squeeze some money out of me.
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Car is a 2012 GTI 6MT with APR intake.
Within the last couple of days, my engine temperature gauge has been acting a little strange. The needle will fluctuate depending on if I'm accelerating or at speed. I've actually seen it go down several times before going back up to normal temp. On a couple of days, it will go up to about halfway to normal temp, and just stay there for a lot longer than it usually seems to.
There have also been times when the car is at normal operating temp, I'll go into a store for maybe 15 minutes, and when I come out, it shows the engine temperature is maybe halfway to where it should be. Then it will go back to normal after a few minutes of driving. I would think that if the engine is warm, it should stay there for more than 15 minutes, even if the car isn't on.
We haven't had any abnormally cold days lately, and I'm not getting any CEL, but I was wondering if anything to worry about, or if it's normal.
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I have determined that I most likely have a bad CV joint - a faint clicking sound while braking that varies with speed that happens with the car in drive, but not in neutral.
I've also found instructions here on how to remove/replace the axle, but I'm wondering if it can be done without separating the tie rod end and removing the ball joint. On other cars I've managed to do this by unbolting the strut, which allowed the hub assembly to flop out enough to be able to slide the axle out of it. Is this possible on the Prius? I have to replace my struts anyway so I was hoping to do it all at once and avoid dealing with potentially frozen suspension components.
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My car is a 1998 Honda Civic. The left turn signal blinks at double speed when the headlights are off. When the headlights are on, it blinks at half speed. Should I replace the left-sided bulbs? Or the turn signal relay? Or something else? None of the bulbs are out in the front or rear.
One other fact: If the hazards are on with headlight OFF everything blinks in synchrony. If the hazards are on with the headlight ON the front blinkers flash alternating (left-right-left etc).
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I have recently bought a 04 f250 6.0, and it has the intake thumping noise that varies speed with idle... I was told it could be a broken rocker, a bent push rod, or a broken roller... I am not that much experienced with diesels. I've spoken to the dealership, and they don't wanna fix it, they said it wouldnt hurt it to drive it like that, but the noise bothers the hell out of me, and everyone notices it. so i wanna get it fixed. I am hoping its just a rocker. if it is just a rocker how deep am i in? truck has 240xxx miles on it, and runs perfect other than that noise.
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I just did my brakes and now I have this squeaking noise when going over speed bump or on uneven surface at low speed. I figure that the springs was decompressed when the car was jacked up and it would settle back down when the car was lower back down. Its has been over a week now and the noise is still there.
By the way, I replaced with Hawk ceramic brakes and it's great. No NOISE and NO brake DUST.
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I have had my 2010 Prius for 6 months and have noticed that when I'm braking over an uneven surface my car seems to speed up. It's a very uncomfortable feeling. Is this a characteristic of regen braking or is there something wrong?
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I've got a 2012 F250 SD and when i go over some bumps in the road or even down a gravel road, the door panel on the driver side vibrates and it's noisy. Is there any way to pull the panel and add some foam padding or something to stop this? I can see the panel vibrate or heck, maybe it the whole door.
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I have a 2013 Passat SEL Premium TDI with the Climatronic system. I have noticed that the AC light never turns on unless I press the AC button...then it stays on regardless of the temperature until I turn it off. Is this normal operation for the Climatronic? When I think of "set it and forget it," I think of the AC turning on and off automatically depending on the temperature. I drive too much to have the AC on all the time (about 600 miles per week).
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I have an 01 passat and when I was coming home one night my car has gone over a pot hole or hit something. I checked the car immediately but couldn't see anything wrong. But as I been driving it there is a resonant vibration in the car that becomes noticeable at 80km/h and above. At low speeds it feels normal. But once I get up to speed I get this vibration and its not a side to side vibration just a constant shaking. Sort if like if I were going over a a road that had very very small bumps. My friend had a look at it and thinks that one of the tires are done. But he's not really sure. What may be causing it?
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1998 Passat 1.8T Sedan, Manual, 118k miles, new head at ~ 87k due to broken timing belt. (Changed oil approximately 1.5-2k miles ago, no loss of oil evident). No noticeable loss of power. No MIL and no DTCs in storage.
But there does seem to be a bit of exhaust (puff....puff.....puff...) that seems to be coming from under the turbo side of the engine, but it is hard to tell.
Recently - over the last couple of weeks - noticed at start-up in morning, significant amounts of blue smoke from exhaust - eventually subsides to nothing after a couple of minutes. BUT, it only seems to appear when the car is angled with its nose slightly up in the driveway and not with its nose down. Lack of it occurring with its nose down was only tried twice; I may need to check it again.
After reading many posts, I thought it might be:
1) Oil overfill at last change - I noticed that my oil was less than 1/16" above the top bend. I doubted that would be the problem, but I siphoned off the small bit and it is within or just below the bend now (hard to read). It might be the oil since I used the Valvoline full synthetic MaxLife that is VW approved for the first time, but I find that hard to believe since I have been using synthetic for a couple of years now.
2) Oil getting into the combustion chamber via oil in the turbo system. Checked the low spot in the hose just before the throttle body. Seemed virtually dry; that's not the problem.
3) I guess it could still be oil gathering some place due to the failure of the turbo, but power seems quite normal.
4) Problem potentially with the PCV (actually called the breather and bleeder valves) and/or vacuum system being plugged up. After reading all of the posts regarding that I am starting to think (HOPE) that is it and not the turbo. While I do understand that flapper valves that are stuck would create greater pressure which could result in oil being forced into the chamber past the valve seats, I am not sure why the angle of the car while parked would matter since the higher pressure would only be occurring while driving; and the blue smoke goes away after driving and doesn't appear until next morning. But perhaps I am missing something.
Particularly which valves I should check/clean if I am seeing this smoking exhaust at start-up, but only when the car is parked with the nose up?
5) Sticky valves at the back-side (cabin-side of the engine)?
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At high speeds 70mph + there is a vibration with my 2006 Passat. You can definitely feel it at your feet, and slighty at the body. It is snowy and cold up here, I tried a few different roads, no change.
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I have a 2008 toyora prius with 75423mi on it, was purchased with 70000mi two or three months ago. I have had no problems with this vehicle until recently. Being a prius newbie, I decided to ask here. When sitting parked on a slight slope earlier with the car running, radio running, and phone plugged in for an extended amount of time, I received an error on my display stating smething along the lines of "there is an abnormality with the p transmission mechanism, please part the car on a flat surface and engage the parking break completely" paired with a red triangle on the dash. I immediately moved the car to flat ground and engaged the parking break. The car turns one, shifts fine, and acts just as normal as prior. Is there anything I should be worried about? The car is still under toyota warrenty and is due an oil change now. Any clue what the cause of this was and if it will be reoccuring?
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Okay, so this is a very intermittent problem but it has been happening more and more lately. When this scenario happens, it is like the rough spot when driving in manually locked 4WD when turning the wheel, but it is where the steering wheel would be to go completely straight and when I try and correct it, it is like the wheel just over corrects when I try and the truck heads the direction the wheel is facing. I'm not sure what this problem is but it is really confusing me. The hubs are both in auto and the ESOF switch is to 2WD if that makes a difference. And it happened today after I made a left turn into the parking lot on campus.
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