Passat (B7) :: Shudders / Shuts Off And Won't Turn Back On
Jun 3, 2015
So I have a 2012 TDI. 55k miles on it. Maintained 100 percent at he dealer. My wife takes the car to work today and three blocks away from the house, the car shudders and shuts off won't turn back on. I go get her so she can take another car to work and when I try to crank the car, it says Engine off, Oil pressure. Car won't turn on.
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When I'm driving and i let off the gas and come to a stop, my car dips close to 200rpm below idle and shudders slightly and goes back to idle.
My car just doesn't seem to have the amount of power that it should. My roommate has a 1.8t jetta with just a few more mods than I do and his car seems so much faster. I put an APR chip in my car and i still have a lag in the throttle..my car jerks..and it just doesn't seem that my car has the right amount of power.
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2007 Grand Caravan SXT, 86K Miles
Factory Radio Clock, AM/FM, CD and Tape Player.
Radio and Clock looses power and completely shuts off and will not turn back on while driving. Miles driven does not seem to be consistent.
All other Electrical seems to work fine, overhead console, Wipers, Blower, Turn Signals, Head Lights, Instrument Panel all seems fine.
When car is shut off, Blower continues to run for a few seconds and then stops.
When car is restarted Radio/Clock magically comes back, clock is reset to 12:00 and radio is on AM.
Get some funny flashing of Idiot lights on cluster that to my recolection is not normal behavior. Once while my wife was driving it the Vehicle Theft Alarm Light came on when she started it up and it stayed on until she stopped and then started it back up when she left the store she was at. That has only happened once.
I checked the Battery Voltage while running and stopped and all seems normal. The Battery was new this December. I also checked fuses and there are none that are blown.
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We bought it and the dude that owned it cut the radio wires and messed with the wiring everywhere because he thought he had a short. I've hooked up the radio and everything and it does the same thing. How do I bypass to make it stay running.
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We have a 2008 Prius with 11,000 miles ,which is new to us for about 2 months now.
My wife and I both have noticed a "shudder of the car - when the motor shuts down" at a stop light or whenever needed. It seems a little bit more noticeable than in the previous two months of driving it.
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I have a 2009 Kia Rio5 that has started to have a strange, intermittent issue. It's an automatic and sometimes when I turn my car on and go to put it in to gear, the car sort of shudders and it feels like something is having a hard time moving in the front of the car. The act of shifting is easy but it sounds/feels like the car is having trouble with it. Then, when I get going, the shift up from 1st to 2nd has the same symptom. The car shudders, there is some lag, and then it goes in to gear. After that it feels, but is hard to determine, that it doesn't downshift after it goes up into a higher gear. When I slow down my RPMs drop to an oddly low amount and accelerating from a stop is quite different. The car has ~33k miles on it and the transmission fluid looks ok. There are no lights indicating an error.
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have a 2001 saturn l200. When I have the car running for awhile, the temp gets half way and the fan comes on, but then shuts right back off and will not come on again. Recently I have replaced the radiator fan, the fan module, and the sensor. How does the car fan work? We have had to add a switch to the fan to turn it on when we have to.
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I have a 2001 saturn l200. When I have the car running for awhile, the temp gets half way and the fan comes on, but then shuts right back off and will not come on again. Recently I have replaced the radiator fan, the fan module, and the sensor. How does the car fan work? We have had to add a switch to the fan to turn it on when we have to.
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It appears that my drivers side low beam on my 08 prius shuts off from time to time. It seems to be during the rain, or damp weather. how can i figure out where the break in the wire is, if it is not clearly visible, OR is there a common site that separates in this model.
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I have a 1996 VW Passat TDI which has a 5 speed stick (they all did). Yes, it's really old but it runs great and gets 45 mpg. However, the model is probably not relevant to this problem. My question has to do with clutch performance. When the car is cold (and it's cold outside), the car sometimes shudders starting out in first gear for a couple minutes. I have tried to be extra careful letting out the clutch in these circumstances. Sometimes that works, but it doesn't eliminate the problem. After about 5 minutes or so the clutch starts working well as it usually does.
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Over the past couple months my car (187k miles on it) shuts off while I'm driving it, about once a week, sometimes less. It only seems to happen while driving 30 mph or less and starts back up after 5-10 min. I'm trying to sell it now and don't know how to explain what is going on with the car w/o putting someone off completely. I'm sure it's fixable, I just don't want to deal w/it anymore and need a larger vehicle.
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My car started a rough idle last night.... Pull to stop light, in gear, a/c on #1 and car shudders and acts like it's going to stall..... Went away as I drove a round a bit.....back this a.m. (after the warm up program ran) drove it a bit and was sporadic.....and even went away...then came back.....
Its worse when car is at stop and in 'D'.....little better with a/c off and/or in neutral......it finally threw the CEL today....... I had the fuel pump recall done about a month or two ago, car has 36k+ on it...... Anything I should have the service dept look for aside from what the fault codes might read?
[URL] .....
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Ever since i have had my car i have had a slight problem re-fueling. The pressure inside the tank doesn't seem to vent correctly and the filler neck seems to back up with fuel and shuts off the pump (too much back pressure) when i'm only ~30% full. I can elevate the problem by re-fuelling slow enough so that the pressure can vent back through the filler neck but it gets rather annoying to sit at the pump for 10 minutes re-fueling.
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I ran into a new one with my 2000 1.8T Auto. When pulling out of my garage when I move the shifter from P to R, I felt a very strong jerk and the whole car shudders. Same from R to D. I drove straight to AAMCO which was the nearest repair shop. Although the drive was smooth (no additional noises etc) the acceleration was noticeably slow.
Recent work on the car:
-Timing belt replacement 3 months back.
-Battery replacement last night.
Engine light is on and came on 2 days back.
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Our 2008 2.0T Variant with 70K miles runs fine, except while running fully warmed up on the highway. Then, at cruising speed, the engine shudders if you try anything more than gentle acceleration. If you push deliberately on the gas at about 1,500 rpm, the engine shudders, fails to accelerate, and the MIL flashes. This has been going on for a few months.
Wifey is about to go on a road trip and, although she's adjusted to this behavior, I don't wanted her stranded somewhere. The engine is throwing code P0301 (got it read at AutoZone), Cylinder 1 Misfire.
I'm wondering why it only misfires under these conditions, and not, say, while accelerating off the line or while idling.
Any tips? I've already put a bottle of Techron through the tank. Car has had all recall/service bulletin work done, which as I remember included a coil pack recall a few years ago.
I wonder if getting the car into the stealership before her trip is a "must." (I don't have my own scanning tool in order to sequentially troubleshoot coil packs. I can at least check plug wiring.
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I Have a 93 bronco with a5.8 the truck will start up and run fine for a while and then the engine gets really ruff starts back firing and shuts off it only starts with starting fluid or after it sits for about 30 mins.
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Having an issue with my 98 regal gs. car shuts off when i use turn signal, replaced multifunction switch and issue is still there.
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I just got a 1986 190e. The ac seems to work but when I turn the fan on the compressor shuts off. Am I doing something wrong ?
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When I go through a tunnel or under a bridge with my headlights on the Auto setting the lights will turn on, but wont turn themselves back off when it is no longer dark.
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Recently my heat/ ac will just randomly turn off and turn back on whenever it feels like it, and also when i try to lower or raise the temp it changes cd player to the tuner to aux and so on ... Its a 2002 hyundai xg350l
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When I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
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