Passat (B7) :: Removing ABS Fuse Disables Traction Control?
Jul 25, 2012
I read up in an article I searched that removing the ABS fuse disables the traction, ESC, ABS, all that stuff. Is there a way that I can disengage my traction control and ESC without taking a fuse out if that is even possible?
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ok i have a 2000 passat v6 last nite i was removing my trunk light because it went out, after that i closed my trunk and went to park my car in the garage but wen i tried turning it on it wouldnt the headlights turn on the dashboard lights turn on but my alarm doesnt lock or unlock. My interior lights dont work either. i checked my fuses and their all fine. I tried jump starting it but that didnt do anything either what can the problem be?
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Recently I started to have my EPC and Traction Control Lights come on once in a while (no CEL). And when that happens, it looks like my Passat is going into limp mode, because it drives, but it hardly has any power.
VagCom confirmed that the problem was coming from Throttle Body (I don't remember the exact code), I replaced the throttle body, did Throttle Body Adaptation, but I still have the same problem.
Here is the most recent VagCom screenshot:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 03H-906-032-BLV.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 03H 906 032 C HW: Hardware No
Component and/or Version: P 3.6-FSI-LEV2 G00 8030
Software Coding: 0000075
Work Shop Code: WSC 00028 028 00001
1 Fault Found:
000290 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too Low
[Code] .....
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I'm looking into being able to turn off my traction control off as need be is their a fuse I can pull or a simply diy to turn it off by a switch in the cab...
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I have just purchased a 2013 Passat, SEL Premium. In my GTI, I could disable traction control with the "ESR off" button. I do not see anything like that on the display. Is this a menu function somewhere? While I do not need it all the time, when we do get deep snow, the traction control needs to be disabled.
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ok.. I have an 05 1.8t. I just got a Forge Diverter Valve to replace the stock one. Changing out the Valve was pretty easy however after i was all done I started the car up and my Traction Control is not working. I just got the car from a VW Dealership, its not dogged out or anything. Could I have unhooked or moved something without knowing it? or is it just a coincidence that this popped up at the same time?
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I cant find any info on this for the B6..
Is it just a standard LSD?
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My friends has an 06 3.6 motion sedan and has a problem. His car went into limp mode with the ECM and traction control light as well as CEL. we took it to the local dealer (45 min away) they scanned it and said that the throttle pedal was the only code that wouldn't clear. He ordered a new pedal from ECS and installed it today. The cars still in limp mode we read about a potential throttle body adjustment procedure (not too sure of the validity) any how followed it open hood open door ignition in the "on" position for a few minutes. After that when he started it every warning light came on. Is there a step in pedal replacement we re missing? On a side note the connector on the pedal end was fairly damaged not sure what from maybe the po had a botched replacement attempt? Not too sure what to try next.
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For the past week I have had the steering wheel and traction control warning lights come on after I start the car after sitting for a long period of time. Once I drive the car a few feet the warning lights disappear. The model is a 2007 2.0T with 72,000 miles. What are next steps or should I head to the dealership? I'm out of factory warranty but have a third party warranty that expires at 75,000 miles.
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My '07 passat has recently been giving the same error sequence, I am driving and start to accelerate when a ding sounds and the traction control light on the right display lights up, as well as the EPC (or ECP) on the right display along with the ! on the MDF display which blocks the use of the cruise control.
Shortly after (30 sec.) I lose the turbo, and then the engine light comes on on the left display. The turbo resets after turning the car off, and the rest to the error lights reset in ~24 hrs.
It happens when I am driving on dry clean roads, so I have not been losing traction. Took it to the dealer and they said the battery was bad, replaced it under warranty and all seemed well, but 5 days later the problem re-occurred, everything reset, and then re-occurred again 2 days later.
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I need to troubleshoot a problem with the ABS & Traction control lights on a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with 126,000 miles. During the year that I have owned the vehicle this problem has occurred every time it is driven on a long trip. The previous owner never drove on longer trips so has no experience with this problem.
When you drive the vehicle around town and on shorter trips (less than an hour) there are no indications of problems. The ABS and Traction control lights come on as part of the start-up check cycle and go off. The ABS and Traction control work in low traction conditions and the lights function correctly when either one is activated.
The unusual behavior occurs on trips longer than an hour. Typically after about 1 1/2 hours at highway speed both the ABS and Traction control lights come on as well as the Wrench symbol in the message panel. It you hit "Reset" the Wrench symbol goes away but the ABS and Traction control lights stay on. The brakes work normally. I do not know if the ABS and Traction Control will work. I have never been in a low traction condition when the lights are on.
Both lights stay on until you stop the vehicle and turn off the ignition. When you restart the vehicle the ABS light is on but not the Traction Control light. When you start to drive the vehicle the ABS light goes out immediately.
After about 1/2 hour of driving both lights come on and the Wrench symbol displays in the message panel. Whenever you stop the vehicle and restart during the trip the cycle repeats. The day after you finish the long trip everything is normal for driving around town and on short trips.
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Associated symptoms include no power steering, complete lack/absence of stability and traction control. This has happened to me a few times in the past, but has never stayed in after multiple start ups (and other remedial action). 2-3 times it's happened on startup, and cleared after a restart, one time while driving, and cleared on its own. This is going on the list of issues with less than 7k on the car.... 2012 3.6 sel
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I've been hearing a faint but rapid ticking noise when taking faster exit/clover-leaft style turns (usually ~40mph). I think it's the ABS or traction control on the verge of kicking in because if I push it a little harder I do get the flashing traction control light on the dash, but the ticking is happening before that light comes on.
I'll ask the dealer when I do the courtesy 30 day inspection... I'm at the end of the 2nd week of ownership with 200 miles right now, so I'm still getting used to the car. (2013 Passat TDI SEL). Loving the 40+ mpg on my rush hour commute!
I did a search and didn't find anything on the B7 forum that might explain this noise. I don't think it's a CV joint since the car is new, it happens when going around these style turns either way and only seems to happen at higher speeds. I suspect it's just that the traction control is sensitive (or maybe I haven't scrubbed the tires enough yet to get good contact).
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Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
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My college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
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My 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
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How to disable the 12v DC-DC converter or what fuses I can remove besides the fusible link in the fuse box? I cant even find a writeup on how to remove that fuse...
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I have 2 messages showing up in the message center / control panel. I have taken the truck to the dealership and we cannot recreate them while the truck is at the dealership. How it can be resolved.
2013 Ford Superduty Platinum : 33,800 miles and the truck is stock
Messages : service traction control / Downhill decent control fault
This will happen just driving down the road or just after starting the truck and taking off.
It has happened towing my work trailer and also not having the trailer connected to the truck.
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Well, it's starting to look like I may have to build my underhood harness from bits of multiple harnesses. I found a 2000 Excursion harness, but the engine plugs and wires were hacked off during engine removal.
After in-depth study of wire diagrams, it looks like I can just get a pickup harness and combine it with the aforementioned damaged Excursion harness to get what I need- and do it for about 50 bucks.
I also notice that there are a few Ebay sellers who just sell the fuse/relay box with the wiring harness hacked off of it. So my question is- how do you remove the wires (including the terminal ends) from the fuse/relay box? I've fiddled around with my burned up parts and can't seem to figure it out.
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There has been below freezing temperatures here in NYC and I noticed that the air suspension is disabled when left out in the cold.
The fist time I noticed this was when the temperature was 15 degrees and while driving the ride was very bouncy. I noticed I didn't hear the air compressor coming on. I tried raising the suspension from "N" to Hi or Lo but nothing happened when I pressed the button, not even the light, it just remained on "N".
I parked inside the garage and after about 20 minutes I heard the air compressor running and felt the car leveling itself. I was also able to adjust the by using the height control switch.
I have come to the conclusion that the cold weather is causing the air suspension to be disabled. I'm thinking the suspension should work at these temperatures. Is there any DIY for removing moisture from air suspension?
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After going through the Prius v manual, I just realized that there is no way to turn off traction control. Now, 99.9 % of the time, traction control is a good thing. But sometimes, it is useful to be able to turn it off.
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