Passat (B7) :: Rear Brake Pads And Rotors Went Shot
Jul 15, 2014
So my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
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I've had a 2006 Passat 4Motion for about 15 Months now and it just went in for it's 20k mile service. The dealer told me that the front pads and rotors were shot, and the rear pads needed to be replaced.
I've read that the front brakes are rather easy to change but my question is: are there any aftermarket pads and/or rotors that last longer than the OEM ones? I just don't think I want to do brakes every 20k miles. Now in regards to the rear brakes, apparently my rotors are okay but my pads need to be replaced. I've read that you need the VW "Vag Com" to do that and I'm new to VW software stuff.
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OK, I just got back from having pads and rotors install on my '99 Passat. I was expecting this to clear up the brake and abs light problem but it did not. The brakes still feel mushy and the ABS light still comes on.What should I check? In the brake forum people suggested bleading the brakes, is this the next step? Any quick how to?
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i have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
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I noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
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How to remove the front brakes pads and rotors on my GMC Sierra 2008 - 1500 - crew cab - 4X4.
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I'm getting sick of having my rims getting dirty after one hour of driving because of all the brake dust that the OEM pads give off. I keep hearing from shops that ceramic brake pads are not only more quiet but will put out much less brake dust. On the other hand, Lexus is telling me that if I do that, I will forsure damage the rotors but I really feel like they just want me to keep the car stock which is why they're saying that.
Are ceramic brake pads a bad idea with stock rotors?
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On 8/18/04 VW told me that my 03' Passat (38'000 miles) needed new rotors & pads. I bought the car new. They told me that VW used rear pads that eroded quickly and provided new rotors on the house. I decided not to press my luck and paid for new pads. I look at my pads now through the rims and it seems dangerously thin and the edge of rotors has gouge all the way around. HAS ENOUGH TIME PASSED FOR A LEGIT REPLACEMENT ON THESE PARTS?
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Here is the problem. When I reversed the car out of the driveway i noticed it would not reverse freely. It felt as though something was blocking the car (as though the handbrake was still on).. When i turn left and right going slowly it feels like the car is jerking and the brake pads are sticking to the rotors.. Its the same when i reverse but I only feel it when im going slowly and the sound gets louder when turning left or right...
I checked all my break pads and rotors.. Im thinking it could be something with the haldex system... Hope not.. My haldex fluid was changed at 80k and im at 88k now..
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My car has about 37k on it; and while the front pads look to be about 50% worn; the rears look like they are closer to 90%. Is this normal? The car is also sluggish while braking especially when the engine is being auto-revved to keep the system voltage up (a known problem). It also seems that the car will step into ABS lock-up mode too soon in a panic stop situation; which might also indicate that the brake system is biasing too much power to the rears; too little to the fronts.
I've never had a car wear the rear brakes more rapidly than the fronts; usually the rears are much more lightly utilized to reduce the tendency to skid. Is there any way to adjust brake bias? I'm getting ready to change rear pads and flush brake fluid.
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What's with the rear brake pads wearing out before the front brake pads. Took my '03 Passat in last week to the dealer for the recall and the service dept. guy said my brake pads were worn out. I took the car to my local mechanic who specializes in VW's. Sure enough, rears were almost gone but fronts still had plenty of meat left on them. Of course I had him replace the rears. But I always thought the fronts wore out first. Could this anomaly be due to ABS?
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Thumping noise in rear passenger side. I removed pads and rotors, inspected and found nothing wrong. I decided to replace the new rotor with same and the thumping is still there, but only with the brakes being used. Nothing felt in the brake pedel and the the van stops fine. So why the thumping noise?
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Ok so we just replaced our front and rear brake pads and had the rotors turned. Our rear brakes are fine but both our front brakes now make a clunking/popping noise when we brake.
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I replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?
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I'm having a hard time trying to remove one of my rear brake rotors.
I thought these simply pull straight out and off, but mine might be rusted in place. I soaked the front facing area around the axle with Kroil and then tried jolting it out by tapping it with a rubber mallet. No success
What's the trick?
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Just went to the dealership for 40k miles service and they told me my rear brake pads were low, around 20%. And they quote me $430 for replacement (Parts + labor). Should i go with it? or i better go buy parts from internet store and find some local mechanic install it for me?
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Having issues with the auto-ebrake? My friend has a 09 passat with the push button ebrake. He was changing his brake pads when his ebrake will not release. He was told by VW to not use a c-clamp to depress them as they would mess up the sensors or something along those lines.
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My 2004 Pacifica (130k miles) was left parked for 2 weeks while we were away. Upon return it didn't wqnt to back out of the parking spot. After about 1/2 revolution the wheels made a clanking sound and hung up. Rolling back and forth freed things up enough to drive the car to the mechanic (about 40 miles). And after the first mile or so everything seemed to go back to normal, with no absolutely signs of anything not wanting to turn smoothly.. The mechanic thought that the problem had been that the brakes were sticking due to the car being unused and said nothing needed to be done. However, upon examination he found that we could use new front brakes and 2 motor mounts. He said that the need for brakes and motor mounts was due to normal wear and tear, and was not related to the wheels hanging up issue.
But now, immediately after installation of 2 new front rotors and pads and 2 new motor mounts there is a vibration/shudder when braking from anything more than 20-30 mph, which was never there before. The shudder is rapid and sometimes pronounced like going over the warning groves cut into the edges of pavement on the interstate. He thinks that this may be a sign that there is a driveshaft issue, and dismisses it as due to an out of round rotor since they are new. I don't know what to think. By the way, he has always been an excellent mechanic, with a great reputation and loyal following.
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I recently had rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2007 Camry (front pads/rotors and read pads/rotors).
It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?
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I need to replace the rotors and calipers on my 04 accent gl. I noticed there are 5 bolts on the back of the caliper. I know one is for the flex hose connection. Then there are 2 big hex bolts closest to the dust plate. Are those for the caliper mounting bracket? and if so will they need to be removed? Then the final two are on the outer edge, however the top one is rounded and rusted, is this normal? The one on the bottom is a hex. So what needs to be removed to change the rotors and pads? I also notice that there are two screw holes in the rotor, that I guess snug it in place against the hub, however the screws are missing. Is this bad? are they needed? and if so can I get new ones?
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Have a 2009 BMW 328i with 78,000 miles. In the last year, the front brake pads and rotors have been replaced by the dealer 3 times, each time because of "warping" which is their diagnosis of a steering wheel shimmy (left to right oscillation) that occurs under light to moderate braking, especially at highway speeds.
The strange part: replacing the rotors and pads seems to solve the issue, but only for a few hundred miles.
I am led to conclude that something is causing very accelerated uneven deposition of pad material to the rotors - but what could it be? Suspension components and bushings have been inspected and check out. So do calipers. Recently completed: four wheel alignment, wheel rounding and balancing did not solve the issue. One dealer will no longer look at problem until "all four tires replaced" - but tires look fine, they are OEM RFTs with about 4/32nd's of tread left. Car seems fine cruising on highway - steering wheel shimmy only occurs under braking.
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