Passat (B7) :: Rattle At Cold Start Up?
Jul 14, 2016
The rattle only lasts for a second or two. Only warning light recently was airbag control module, addressed by Dealer. Also noticed recently, while doing some "spirited" driving, there was a deep-bass thump sound at the end of each gear change.
I've done forum searches for start-up rattle and found issues with timing chain/belt, in relation to the tensioner bolt, mentioned in reference to an earlier design(?). I was unable to find anything related to the B7/NMS.
No idea if it's a V6 issue, DSG issue or general VW issue. NMS V6? NMS DSG?
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Just bought a used 04 XLE Camry for daughter--60K miles. 4 cylinder engine. Engine sounded great when test drove. She has had it for 2 weeks, the engine now rattles badly upon first cold start of the day. Clears up almost immediately (maybe 3-4 seconds). Shut down and restart-no problem--only when cold (or has been sitting for more than a couple of hrs.) I'm thinking it is the valve lifters out of oil, but don't know. And what was the repair?(engine oil was just changed(Synth blend--5W-30Wt.))
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I have had a rattle that lasts 2 seconds on my 2012 Elantra for the since about 2 oil changes ago. The car has 152,000 miles on it and I've changed the oil regularly per the maintenance schedule, although not always with a Hyundai filter.
I'm strongly suspecting that this is the timing chain tensioner, but I could be wrong. Other than this, the car runs fine. I tried having the oil changed by the Hyundai dealer with the OEM oil filter and the problem appears to be a little worse. It first started to appear on cold start up after the car sat for >8 hrs or so. Now, it appears on cold start up >2 hrs. I noticed that the dealer put 5W20 in it.
I'm wondering if lower viscosity oil makes the problem worse during hot weather. It seems when the weather is colder it takes longer for it to appear. I'm wondering what my options are here. I really don't know how much $$ it is to go after the tensioner and how critical it is - the dealer said they do replace them and that doesn't always fix the problem though I'm not sure what he meant. I have read a few other posts about tensioners here, but I'm also wondering if this is an issue with the new engine.
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I left my car over night so that the dealer could hear my valve rattle when it was cold. Typically it rattles for about 4 miles and then never again until the next cold start. He called me today and said that he heard exactly what I reported and it was not normal. Then the diagnosis .... BAD ALTERNATOR!
I'm 52 years old, I have built cars from the frame up, I have changed and rebuilt many an alternator over the years, I have never heard one do this! If this is correct, and I must say that he has never done me wrong, I was real close to being stranded along the road!
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So I am hearing a weird noise when I start up my Tig after it's been sitting at least overnight. I'm not sure when it started because if the windows are up when I start I can't hear it inside, so for all I know it's been happening since before the warm weather arrived. But anyway... It's a brief rattle, kind of high and plastic-y, like maybe a half-second long or less, when I first start up. If I turn it off and then start it again, no rattle. Don't hear it again until the Tig has sat for a while.
No CELs or anything or other signs of trouble. It's a 2014 with 24k miles, bought CPO at 19k.
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I bought a 2005 Camry about 3 months ago. It has the 2.4l 4 cyl with about 139k miles. The car seems to run perfect, but it has a rattle noise right at start up on cold mornings. It only lasts for the initial 1/2 second start up, then it's gone. I'm thinking it's probably just a heat shield rattle or something, I just did a full synthetic high mileage oil change on it and that didn't work, so that just makes me lean more towards heat shield.
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I have a 2013 Azera w/technology package, it has 20,500 miles. I absolutely love the car, have had no issues with it. However, every time the car is started with a cold engine, either from sitting overnight, or sitting an hour when it's very cold outside (20's or 30'sF), there is a loud rattle like something is very loose or I've described it like it sounds like someone threw a bag of bolts in the engine for about 3-4 seconds. Then it runs like a normal engine. I've had it in the shop twice, the 2nd time they replaced the fuel rail injector assembly and all the injectors due to such a heavy carbon buildup in the cylinders. It still rattles horribly. It's an embarrassment to start, it sounds horrible and doesn't sound like the normal startup noise. This concerns me of the longevity of the engine. I have video of the start up noise even.
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Two months ago I bought a used 2006 Sonata v6 with 54,000 miles. After a few hundred miles I began to hear a rattle on cold start that lasts approx 5 secs. I did my research and saw the TSB concerning the timing chain tensioners. The TSB instructs the dealer to turn the engine off after reaching operating temp then restart after 10 minutes. If there was no noise after the ten minute start then the car is operating normally. My car does not rattle after the 10 minute start up. I just can't see this as a normal characteristic. What could be causing this noise?
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This has to do with a rattle on cold startup from a gear connected with the VVT system. I have a 2010 camry that may be affected by this. It just past 60K miles so they probably will not cover it under warranty. Does the rattle get worse over time, or will it have an engine failure if it does not get fixed?
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Recently bought 2002 Camry 2.4 .... Engine has a cold start rattle in the top passenger side. The noise stops after the engine heats up in about 10 minutes. I've changed the intake manifold.... Did not work. Looking for the OCV VALVE FILTER but cannot find it ....
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I just bought 2011 Camry 2.5 6auto with 57k miles on it. The car make a rattle noise for a second or so on a cold start when sets overnight. I took it to the dealer yesterday and they replaced the timing gear assembly under warranty. This morning when I started the car in the morning it made the same rattle noise. I am going to take it back to the dealer next week.
My question is has any one had this rattle noise? if so, did the noise go away after the dealer replaced the cam gear? Also, Do you think this rattle will affect the engine in the long term?
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I have a Hyundai Elantra Limited 2012. A few months ago the Short Block was replaced because the engine was noisy. Now it started to do that noise, if I remember it's a little bit similar : Youtube video: [URL] .... Or search youtube for: Hyundai elantra 2012 engine rattle noise
It rattled very loud for 1 or 2 seconds on a cold start the other day too. Noise appears to be coming from the engine. It does it pretty much all the time, at idling, when I accelerate it accelerates too and when I slow down it kinds of do too slowly. Need another new short block or is it something else like the timing chain or a bearing?
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I have a 1997 explorer sport 4x4 4.0 sohc It has a real tuff time with cold starts sputters won't hold and idle sits at about 500 rpm once its warm its not as bad still has a low idle.
Also i have a constant engine rattle thinking left front cam tension-er
Also throwing and check engine light odb scan tool shows o2 sensor position two is bad
I was thinking intake gaskets and new tension-er is a good place to start.
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My 99 Passat GLX V6 is making a loud rattling noise that seems to be coming from the passenger side firewall area. This started about a month ago and only happens when the car has been sitting for several hours (first thing in the morning, and when starting it after work). The noise is loudest at about 2k RPM and stops completely after about a minute. I suspect some kind of heat shield is loose. What to look at? I have tried finding something loose from the top of the engine and didn't find anything. Next step is to check from the underside.
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This noise started a few days ago. Only happens when the car has sat overnight, and only for about a minute or so. This is a 2005 1.8T with about 116K miles, timing belt done at 108K, AC compressor replaced in June. Oil changed every 5k with Mobil 1 0W40 - All filters and spark plugs replaced at 105K. Car is in Florida, temperatures are about 78-85F in the morning.
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Car is at the stealership right now 74k miles (CPO until 75k). Having issues with cold starts, weather has been getting into the 40's, and when coming out of work in the ramp the car has a very hard time starting (usually taking 3 times to fully turn over). However, in the morning coming out of my heated garage the car starts right up no problems whatsoever.
There are zero codes being thrown, zero lights on the dash. Brought the car in for diagnosis and the dealer has had it now for 2 days - still "unsure of the issue" but they have proposed that it is either a fuel pump (covered by CPO) or Carbon-Build up.
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Bought a 2006 (later production) with 25,000 miles over the weekend. Couldn't pass up the price and the warranty (1 year left + CPO). Picked up the car Saturday at noon..... had to drive to DC for business and the CEL came on when I turned on the car this morning. I researched at lunch that it could be a cold start misfire but I am already pretty heated about this. When I get home tonight I am going to plug it in to my OBDII scanner and see what I can pull. If it is something bad.... I am giving it back to the dealership.
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My 2013 Passat SEL TDI has 40,000 miles on the clock and in the past few months I've noticed it's taking longer to start blowing cold air. I've had several summers already so I'm already used to it's performance in the hot summer months but this summer has been different. The A/C will not blow any cold air at all before the car gets going under load (it didn't need engine load before) and sometimes it just won't blow cold at all but just barely "cool" air. I'll sometimes be driving for a half hour and never get the A/C to really blow cold.
Other times, it'll blow just fine. It's the hit and miss performance that has me confused. I then bought one of those refrigerant bottles from an auto parts store that comes with a gauge to see if maybe I have lost refrigerant or it's low but when I checked the gauge the pressure was exactly where it needed to be. I just came off that dreaded 40K service at the dealership and am trying to avoid going back there at all costs...
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Check out how loud my cold start idle is. Still can't figure out why you can't hear the turbo on start up though. Even revving at idle you can't hear it that much. I've seen plenty of gti's with more exhaust restriction then i have and you can hear it clearly. [URL] .....
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I got the fuel pump and fuel pump control module replaced. Now I am still getting a cold start delay (5-10 seconds to start) and it has a rough idle sounding like its misfiring. This happened when i picked it up at the dealership after a new fuel pump BUT! keep in mind it has been doing this for a while so i figured it was the fuel pump.
New oem plugs and the coils were replaced when i bought the car because the coils failed during a test drive I need to scan the codes but i will post. Also this only happens during a cold start. if the car is warm and i go into target or something then start it shortly after its fine.
TSB'S I think will fix this. [URL] .....
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Cold start issues that my 2006 2.0T Passat is having. A few weeks ago, during a stretch of cold weather (10-20F), my Passat would sputter when I tried starting it up. It would either start and immediately shut off, would attempt to turn over, and generally on the 3rd attempt would turn over and run fine. I was only having this issue in the morning, and it would start fine when I would leave work (9 hour shifts).
I got my battery tested, and it proved to be failing. Replaced it. A few days later cylinder 4 started to misfire. I replaced all spark plugs and coil packs (85k on the car). During this service discovered that my oil had gotten some moisture in it and have off-white residue, flushed oil, replaced with new filter. A few days go by and I get code P2181 (cooling system performance). I cleared this out earlier today and it hasn't come back (50 miles later).
Are things just starting to go at the same time, or might there be another underlying issue? I have plans to flush the tranny and do the timing belt/coolant/water pump in the next month.
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