Passat (B7) :: Overheating / Heat Has Stopped Working / Strong Odor Of Ammonia
Mar 23, 2016
I have a 2014 TDI with 86,000 miles on it. Several weeks ago I had the heater core changed and since then the car has ran hot twice when what appears to be a regen. The heat has stopped working again. When it is running hot, I can smell a strong odor of ammonia. It does not run hot all the time. Last time it ran hot, I felt the radiator and it was not hot all over. The passenger side hose was not hot and the top of the radiator was not hot. I have taken it to the dealership several times.
At first they said that they thought that the thermostat needed changing. I declined and said that it would run hot all the time with a bad thermostat. The last time I brought it to the dealer - I stated that I think the radiator is clogged. Now they are indicating that they want to change the radiator, thermostat, heater core (again), and flush the system. The system has been pressure tested and no leaks have been found. The tech indicated that it ran hot while in the shop with the A/C on and it boiled over.
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Lately I have noticed an intermittent strong overheating odor coming from the rear passenger tire area of my 1999 Sonata. I was also beginning to notice the car vibrating or riding unevenly. I took it in to Les Schwab to have the brakes checked and was told they were fine with over 50% on all four brakes. I did have the front tires replaced as they were worn and wearing unevenly and was told this is what was more than likely causing the vibrating. That was a couple of weeks ago and I had not noticed any odor coming from the wheel well until yesterday the minute I opened my car door after driving home from work there was the same strong toxic smelling odor coming from the same rear passenger wheel well, but not from anywhere else. I have only noticed this smell after driving home from work and there is a fairly steep hill I go down not too far from my home. Is this a brake issue or something else?
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Car: 02 Passat GLX V6 4motion
Mileage: 99k
Just recently bought this car (3 months ago) and I have had lots of issue with it already. I topped off the tank that same week and it started to leak gas right under the gas tank (driver side in front of the rear wheel).
No engine light came on. It leaked for couple of days for about an hour after I park the car then it would stop until I drive again. It did that for couple of days until the gas level went down to 2/3 then it stopped. Since then I stopped topping it off and it hasn't leaked.
However I always smell gas even when its not leaking. When I go around the car the odor comes from right in front of the rear wheel (driver side).
Prior History: This car was rear ended before and fixed up by the prior owner. The seller told me that he had recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator that week.
I took it to the mechanic and had them do a smoke test. They couldn't pin point the leak so they recommended replacing the entire fuel tank for $1800. I walked away and thought I would just keep the fuel level low and keep driving. However the gas smell really bothers me because the car is parked in the garage and the gas odor builds up to unbearable condition.
What could cause this issue? Does this has anything to do with fuel pressure regulator that was replaced? Anything to do with fuel pump because of the rear end accident or loose seal in that area? Do you think it is necessary to replace the whole tank for this?
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The heat in my friend's 2003 V6 Passat Wagon auto has stopped working. Coolant was flushed . He say's he smells a burning smell when he drives it. The heat will be set to max but no heat will come out. These are the codes I found.
Address 08: Auto HVAC
Labels: 3Bx-907-044.lbl
Part No: 3B1 907 044 J
Component: CLIMATRONIC B5GP 0005
Coding: 17200
Shop #: WSC 05311
5 Faults Found:
00603 - Footwell/defroster Flap Positioning Motor (V85)
37-00 - Faulty
01271 - Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (V68)
37-00 - Faulty
01272 - Positioning Motor for Central Flap (V70)
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
37-00 - Faulty
01341 - Control Module in Instrument Panel On Comfort CAN (J285)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
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Yet another problem with my 2001 VW Passat V6 4Motion... This time it's the Thermostat.
My heat stopped working, and I brought it to the mechanic I always go to, and after a few hours of testing different pumps and hoses he's narrowed it down to the Thermostat. This is great it's only a 35 dollar part... BUT he says it takes a good 5-7 hours to replace due to the location. Is this true? He said the timing belt has to come off, which also means the bumper does...
He's not charging me labor for the initial diagnosis, since he didn't fix anything. (That's how he works), but I'm going to get charged for the 5-7 hours it takes to replace the Thermostat. My question is, is there an easier way to do this, or is 5-7 hours realistic?
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My father in-law gave us a 1996 explorer AWD with a 5.0 for my son who is 16. A couple of weeks later he's out learning with my wife and a very strong electrical smell took over the cabin. They came right home and when I got in I found all of the gauges not working. The instrument lights work, blinkers work, but all gauges do nothing. Pulled cluster and wires look O.K. behind it from what I can see. They saw no smoke, just smell, fuses look O.K.. What could cook on this vehicle that would wipe out just the gauges?
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I have leased a new Hyundai Elantra Limited 2012. We have noticed a very strong odor in the trunk. We have removed all the trunk mats and spare tire insulation trying to air them out and the smell still persists. It smells like something is burning or has burnt near the wheel wells or the back fold down seats. How to get rid of it?
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I have a rernote starter installed on my '07 SF 3.3. It will leave the engine running for 18 minutes before shutting off. If I get into the vehicle after it has been running for over 10 minutes or so, there is a strong odor of gas inside.
Where I might look for where it is coming from? If I remember to leave the vehicle in "recirculate" mode the night before, the odor is less, but my wife and I drive it equally so often the recirlcualte button will not be pressed.
Not sure if there is a leak somewhere (no other signs of a leak or gas odor while driving), or if this is "normal"...
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Over the last 2 days here in NJ were its been cold. When starting the Treg and get out of the car I smell a strong odor of gas from the Exhaust. This normal? Haven't had this smell before. Seems like it drives normal. Don't get to drive it everyday anymore. Only on weekends as my wife take the Treg to work now.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS with about 68k. Starter her up this am and smelled a very strong odor of gasoline in the cabin. I check my garage floor and didn't see any leaks. Drove it for a few minutes and the smell went away. What might be causing this?
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I remember reading very recently about someone who found a fix to the strong fuel odor on cold starts. I can't seem to find it anywhere. I think it mentioned something about a bad ignition coil or something.
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Strong Gas Odor from under the Hood. Mechanic found no leaks. Contacted Subaru only reply I got was "how many miles are on the Car" and take it to a Subaru Dealer. Odor is intermittently.
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I have a problem that I cannot pinpoint. For at least 2 months now, I have noticed a strong odor almost like a diesel coming from the exhaust. I replaced the plugs, wires, air filter and cleaned out the throttle body but it remains. No check engine light and runs smooth. Also, noticed a significant loss of coolant from the overflow bottle. Filling it every 3 days. Took it out to inspect for holes or cracks and nothing. Not sure if all these are related. Every oil change the used oil smells like fuel. I was thinking rings going bad but don't think that would solve the coolant loss which is unseen. Everything under the hood is dry.
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I changed the gas cap on my car. This did not change a thing. I took to i believe reliable mechanic (has worked on car several times) and was told it is bad leak from the "sending" (I think) tube. I think it is the plastic? thing that sends fuel to the fuel pump. This is cracked.
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I have a 2010 Prius and it has developed a very strong mold smell/odor. It is strongest when the car has been sitting with the windows up. I have tried many of the tips in the forum regarding not using the recirc mode. I've clean the car inside and out, mats, carpeting, every compartment.
I have talked to the dealer parts counter and replaced the cabin air filter with the carbon filter and used the 2 can treatment that Toyota sells (one in the a/c drain x2 and the other in the air intake.). No joy.
I took it to the service department they did the same thing - again, no joy.
They have asked me to bring it back for, and I quote, "exploratory surgery." I asked if this the covered under the Toyota Certified Warranty. He could not confirm that it would be covered.
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My engine is overheating, plenty of coolant but fan stopped working. Not sure whether to check fuse first. Dont actually know which fuse box to look in.
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Has encountered a strong odor of washer fluid when using it on your windows. I was driving to work this morning through a snow storm and needed to use my washer fluid for the first time. As soon as I turned it on the entire cabin was filled with that smell. Could this be a leak?I thought it was all confined within the engine compartment so not sure why I smell it immediately upon using.
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I let my sister borrow my 1995 4 banger Ford Ranger for about a week. To make a long story short, when I drove it home I could smell a really strong gas odor so I pulled into a gas station and noticed gas pouring out of from what looked like the fuel filter area right under the driver's side.
Anyway, it took another 5 gallons to get home and I later crawled under and took a look. It looks like someone grabbed the fuel line and tried to unsuccessfully pull it out of the fuel filter by hand. I could literally see the imprint of the person's hand where they grabbed the line. They had pulled the line so hard that it crimped and split which is why gas was leaking like a water hose.
I picked up a Ranger specific Dorman fuel-line repair kit from Advance and had my brother install it for me as I'm no mechanic. It was fine for a few days and then I started to smell gas again so I crawled under and took a look. There's just barely a small leak coming from the connector barb/union on the kit. Anyway, I didn't know what else to do so I dropped the Ranger off at a local shop this evening. With that said, this is fixable, right?
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I have an issue with my 960 wagon. When I first got the car this past July, the AC light was flashing. I ignored it because I didn't really need the AC. I knew the heat worked fine, which I need up here in the northeast. However, a week ago or so the heat suddenly stopped working. It worked fine in the morning. I parked the car in a lot, came back about five hours later, and no heat.
I found the sheet with the AC diagnostic codes on it, and followed the procedure to get the codes.
[URL]........................
I'm getting the code 132 every time I do the diagnostic, and sometimes I also get 161. Of the three times on three different days I've done the diagnostic, the 161 only came up once.
In-Vehicle Temperature Sensor
Open Circuit Or Short Circuit To 12 Volts .......... 132
Solar Sensor ......................................... 161
I'm not sure where the in-vehicle temperature sensor is. Is it in the dome light? It says the "courtesy light fixture" in the docs, so I'm not sure this is the same thing. The dome light is not currently connected in my car. I have two of them in the garage but neither ever produced light when plugged in, and the heat worked fine all during that time, so I didn't worry about it. It was only until a week ago or so that the heat stopped working.
The temp panel controls work fine. Blower blows as needed, vents switch no problem. Recirculate actuates. No heat.
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My 2006 Hyundai Tiburon is having issues with the AC not working when the car is idling. In addition to the AC not blowing cold air, the engine is running hot, almost overheating,however when I get up to speed and start moving again the engine cools back down and the AC blows perfectly. I can smell the sweet smell of antifreeze coming from some where when I get out of the car and I can see that it is leaking under the hood somewhere but I don't see anything on the ground. What is going on?
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When I fill my tank with gas I get a very strong odor of gas throughout the vehicle, what do I need to check to fix this?
Also this one is weird, but everytime I make left turns ONLY, my Jeep does a down shift but stays in Neutral longer than it should but then kicks into gear by me taking my foot off the gas pedal and reapplying. What this could be? I have made sure that my Transmission levels were fine but I am baffled what the problem is?
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