I Just did a little work on my 2013, lowering springs, BBS rims and Kuhmo tires....
I now get a Check Tires warning every-time at start up.... Clearly it has to do w/ the lack of tire pressure monitors...
Can this error be whipped/cleared? OR do I need to get TPM's? OR do I live w/ it?
I purchased a used 2003 Echo last week. The all season tires are on 15 inch rims. I would like to buy snow tires for this car. The question is - snow tires on 15 in rims or snow tires on 14 in rims? I understand that 15 inch rims was an option selected on the original purchase. Without this option, the car would have had 14 inch rims.
View 14 RepliesNot long ago I fitted after-market rims to my 2006 Passat 2.0 FSI HighLine, I changed from 215/55/16 to 235/45/17 with Falken ZE912 tires, all new. The center hub of the Passat is 57.1(as far as my knowledge goes) and the wheel hub seem to be 66.6, the shop who installed my rims inserted a 57.1 to 67.1 poly-carbon hub rings which needed some force to fit into the wheel, the vibrations did not stop. All 4 wheel&tires were balances 2 times on one machine then a third time on a different machine just to be sure, still the same. I didn't preform a front alignment yet as i didn't believe it's needed, although right now ill try anything...
Anyway i then measured the rim hub diameter which seems to be 66.6. I bought a set of 57.1 to 66.6 poly-carbon rings, they also needed a bit of force to fit in the wheel, still there is no improvement and the car vibrate under acceleration. I would like to add at this point that i had no vibrations what so ever with the old rims and tires even though the tires were quite worn. I am thinking maybe i need the 57.1 to 66.1 size? Or perhaps i should use aluminum rings instead of plastic?
Is a size difference of 0.5 can make that much of a difference? I know an aluminum ring wont fit unless its the perfect size, and plastic are a bit more elastic meaning like in my case, they can fit in a smaller rim with a bit of force. Should I aim for a ring that fit perfectly without the need of applying force? Can it be that a 66.6 ring, fitted in a 66.1 rim is not eliminating the vibrations just because its off by a 0.5 mm and needed a bit of force getting inside?? I though that as long as the ring fits inside the wheel it will work but obviously its not..
I just got new rotiform BLQ rims and nexen tires. I have the hub rings and the setup was balanced and aligned (double checked).
Before this I had 3 bent TSW rims and got a pretty bad shake in the wheel around 65-70 mph. Before or after that speed everything is smooth now.
Why would this shake still occur.
A message appears on my dashboard "Check Tires." The pressures are OK...
View 5 RepliesI bought a set of new tires for my 2000 astro van and 1994 Saturn SL2 ::edit:: two summers ago. I bought a "full warranty" with the tires which includes checking the air pressure and free rotation. It seems every time I take the either vehicle back for a tire rotation there is a problem which is not covered by the warranty. For example I was told that each vehicle now has a rim/wheel which is slightly out of round with the implication that this negates any warranty on the tire.
I looked at the tire on my van as the tech spun it around while dismounted as you would a bicycle tire and sure enough the tire "wobbled" a tiny bit when viewed straight on at the treads - like a spoked bike tire would if it needed "truing". I was given a speech about "driving to hot" with steel rims and alloy rims were better as they tolerate heat better, also they mentioned the weight of tools in my van but I pointed out that any two of their hefty employees weighed much more than anything I ever carried in my van. The implication again is that this could negate the tire warranty.
I have driven since the 1960's and this is the first time I have ever had a problem with rims - even through minor accidents. The most I have done with these wheels is to bump them on a curb in a parking lot occasionally.
My wife's 2001 Chrysler Concorde can't seem to keep the air in the tires due to leaky rims. Mechanics say they are pitted and that's the best they can do. They have used rim sealant. Can I just use tire tubes until we get rid of this thing?
View 5 RepliesThe OEM M+S tires on their 18" wheels have been removed and replaced with 17" rims on which winter tires are mounted.Should I place the stored tires in garbage bags or anything?
View 15 RepliesI have a Ford F150, 2003. I replaced the switch above the master brake cylinder just a few months ago soon after I bought the truck. I put 17" rims and new tires on my truck and now my cruise control works intermittently. It worked fine before then.
Can there be a connection between the intermittent failure of the Cruise and the larger rims and tires? I know my speedometer is off by about 4 MPH at 55 but I expected that.
I have a stock 2012 F250 6.7 Diesel. I was looking at getting new 18 or 20 inch rims for it and was wondering what the largest tire I could fit on those without rubbing on the truck would be. I know there are lots of topics on this but I could not find anything that applied to me. Most topics were on stock wheels.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 King Ranch F250 that had 18" rims on it. I just put a new set of 2008 KR 20" tires & rims on my truck and now the ABS light is on. Does increasing the tire/rim size mess with the ABS? If so how can I remedy this?
View 1 RepliesStarted having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
View 14 RepliesI've had my Golf Wagon for over 2 years. A week ago it started giving me the service warning every time I start. service in 4000 miles or 350 days. I had a dealer done oil change, took a 5000 mi road trip, came home, and now this happens every time I start my car.
I feel I could turn it off via vag com, but I also feel like I've crossed in a parallel universe. as every post just tells people how to "reset"... can't find anything about on/off or its sudden appearance out of nowhere! and I can't for mysterious reasons, post on other forums.
did the dealer do something via vag com? did my co-driver hit some weird combo of buttons?
Every time I exceed 20 MPH, my MFD chimes at me and causes a warning to flash on the screen. The only way to get rid of the warning is to either slow down to under 20 or hit the "OK" button on my steering wheel. This becomes problematic when I am trying to follow the directions given by my nav system.
I turned off the "speed warning" feature that is under the "winter tires" section of the config menu. This didn't affect it. How do I turn this thing off??
Started the car on Saturday and drove about 2 miles. Chime came on and display read something like "check gas cap" or "tighten gas cap". Went off about 10 seconds later and never came on again. Cap was tight. Might weather have something to do with this? Beastly hot that day (98) and tank was half full. Never saw that display before.
View 1 RepliesI have added a quart of recommended oil per the manual (the dipstick is now reading optimal oil). The warning is still on. What actions can be taken and what was the outcome? I am assuming that if the warning is not gone in the morning the sensor is bad.
View 10 Repliesi have a b.5.5 V6 4motion and My check engine stays on the majority of the time. I've had a tech check the code and he tells me its my Evap system. The same tech told me that it was actually pretty useless to repair the problem unless the check engine light bothers me..
View 5 RepliesJust got my car back from it's recent service. The trunk wire harness was replaced under extended warranty. I noticed a light bulb emblem on my front center screen but continued on to the grocery. Upon starting car after leaving grocery I received a "check lights" warning on that screen for several seconds. Since the chain of events have been
1) Repair TPMS control module, and this leads to
2) Repair motor that raises rear privacy shield which led to
3) All 5 tire sensors needing replaced, which led immediately to
4) Trunk harness needing replaced and now I have this light issue.
I've literally left the car dealership after the last 3 services with new problems to deal with.
It's been pretty cold the last few days and tonight when I was coming home the car told me to stop and check the coolant.. and servicve manual....what does this mean...I have read to check the coolant level (pink G12 stuff)...the resevoir is full....could something be frozen??
View 7 RepliesWhen I start up the car in the morning, the infamous "STOP!! CHECK COOLANT LEVEL" warning will come on, and then shortly thereafter it will go away. I topped off the coolant level (with the pink stuff of course) and yet this light will come on occasionally. It mostly comes on first thing in the morning when the car is started up and cold, and *sometimes* come on when the car is warm. Fluid level is all topped off. What gives?
I was reading that there is a fluid level sensor that sometimes goes bad? could this be it? I changed the coolant temp sensor back in the summer of this year. (not sure if that has anything to do with it?) Not sure if I have a leak, cause I look under the car in the morning and I have no spots of coolant anywhere.
I was cleaning my passat the other day and I took my air filter out, however I didn't disconnect the wires and hoses on top of the box, I just raised the top cover up and pulled the filter out and cleaned it and checked it and put it back in, I also took out the cabin filter out and cleaned it and put it back in too, then I started the car and took it for a ride and the car started over heating, it keeps giving me STOP CHECK COOLANT warning and the temperature rises all the way to max RED.
I check the coolant level is at level and the radiator fans are spinning, however I noticed the lower hose that goes from reservoir to the radiator is cooler than the other hoses, what could be the problem? The water in the reservoir is hot too, could this be from a faulty thermostat? a sensor? or somewhere I read there is a fuse somewhere in the engine bay? I'm not too familiar with these 1.8t engines, the temp sensor was acting funny before too like sometimes it would go all the way to zero and stay there and go up and go down to zero and then raise, which I think there might be a bad connection or bad sensor.
I forgot to add the car is a 2003 1.8T.