Passat (B7) :: Machining Wheel Hub Down 3mm Possibly On Cast Wheel?
Jul 6, 2012
I've seen a few wheels where people have had the wheel hub mounting machined down in order to change the offset. I can't seem to find the posts where they mentioned having this done so I don't know if they were forged or cast wheels. I'm not looking at anything drastic, just about 3-4mm.
The wheels I'm looking at don't offer the offset I was hoping for and know will work with H&R springs, so if I buy them I'm hoping I can adjust the offset from ET32 to at least ET35. Of course this would only be done if I can get the ET32 to work with running 245/35/20 tires. The wheels are 20x8.5 ET32 currently. Is possible on a cast wheel?
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2002 passat wagon 1.8 automatic 210000km and fantastic running. Last week VW garage noticed some liquid around the transmission but weren't sure if it comes out of it. Might be from above transmission dripping on to it. They shampooed the transmission and will check next week where it exactly comes from.
What to do if the dealer tells me it is the transmission. This dealer is fabulous - actually treated me very fairly during the past 8 years. Car runs like a swiss watch and don't notice anything different shifting. I believe it is not worth it replacing a transmission for this old (but very good) car.
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I bought these wheels last summer from ECS Tuning - Alzor wheels for my Jetta. I haven't driven too much on them since I was deployed to Afghanistan for 9 months. I've been home 4 months. I think I have about 10k miles on them. The issue is that now one of them leaks. I took it in to be checked, thinking it was the tire. There is no rock rash, I haven't hit anything. The wheel leaks from the area that the spoke connects to the wheel base. There is no visible sign of a crack at all so I don't know what the heck is up. The paint looks fine from the spot it leaks from.
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is it just a 337 thing? but, the rear wheel on the left is poked out farther than the wheel on the right. I didn't measure it just yet but it looks as it's almost a 5mm difference. I didn't realize it until today when an old friend was inspecting my car.
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Having, apparently not uncommon problem of a misaligned steering wheel -- i.e., when the wheel is horizontal, the car drives left? Two dealers have told me that there is no alignment problem (and have given me the BS "crown of the road" explanation). Perhaps this is not an alignment issue, but there's no question that the wheel must be slightly turned to get the car to drive straight, which is at best a major annoyance.
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I'm buying a 2003 Ford Explorer, XLS Sport Utility 4D. She's got 150k miles on an automatic transmission (pretty sure this model only came in auto anyhow).I'm mostly concerned about the rear axle, as the title prompted. The rear wheel seems awfully close to the front of the wheel well. Is this normal? I google searched some images of this model and seems to be the norm in some cases, and in other cases not.
Attached is a photo of the concerning placement. Is the rear axle bent? Is this suggesting that the rear end is on it's way to crapping itself?
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Heard a thumping yesterday as I'm getting on the highway at rush hour. I looked in the drivers mirror and I see my rear wheel flopping around. I had sheared off 6 of the 8 studs. After towing it home I pulled the wheel and tapped out the broken studs. I've never done this before so I'm a bit unsure as to how I get the new studs in. The drum brake assembly is behind the rotor and even if I pulled all that out it still doesn't look like I have enough room. Did I just discover this job is bigger than I thought?
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My 2005 Prius has 95k miles on it. I've been hearing a cluck-cluck-cluck noise from near the front driver side wheel. I had an independent mechanic test drive it, who said the wheel bearing needs replacement. Should I have it checked out by a Toyota dealer? They're so much more expensive, but are is it worth taking it to them?
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I have a bad wheel bearing but on the highway my steering wheel shakes. It is only on the highway not down residential streets. I'm pretty sure it is the driver's side wheel bearing. I already balanced my wheels and everything.
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Noisy steering wheel. It doesn't matter where I position the wheel, I'm hearing clatter when going over bumps or when putting pressure on the wheel. It has no effect on steering. I think it's coming from somewhere inside the adjustment mechanism. I figure the dealer will need to take a look.
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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2008 LS600hl with 31K miles, been having low speed brakes shudder for quite sometime even after changing pads and machining rotors. This weekend thought about putting grease on the pins holding the pads, this did the trick, shudder is gone!
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I have seen it written and noticed it in person that the steering wheel on the b7 does not line up exactly with the driver or the seat. the steering wheel is ~ 1 inch offset to the right of center.
was this done intentionally. URL]...............
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New Passat owner here. I will post n intro later with pictures of my ride. Will a Audi S5 rim fit on the Passat or are spacers or hub adapters needed? 18x8, +35 offset, center bore 66.6, 5x112 lug.
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So yesterday I was driving my VR6 around town today, after stopping at a coffee shop and leaving my wife and the engine running while I went inside, I returned to a amber-colored steering wheel light in my tach. There's no stored codes and nothing on the MFD. Book says that flashing icon is steering wheel lock mechanism failure and solid icon is electronic steering assist failure, but book shows red-icon, not amber.
Steering was fine during this time, or at least I didn't notice any difference for the 20 feet I drove before I stopped and shut it off. Upon restarting it, the light was still there. I decided to drive it a little ways and see if anything changed... Within less than a 1/4-mile, the light went off and has stayed off.
How to do any more testing against the steering module to see if anything is actually wrong or going wrong?
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What's the best fix for rear wheel lean, where the inside tread is getting prematurely worn.
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I have lots of rattles. I went to the dealer with little to no success. The one that is bothering me the most is coming from inside of the steering wheel.
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I notice a hole in the wheel well that goes up to the firewall of the car, may be for the turbo? It could also be a good place to introduce NOISE into into the cabin of the car as well.
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A couple of days ago my steering wheel light came on and the dash board said" Steering Wheel Locked Bring to shop" so I turned off the car and waited 20mins and started it and the light went offf...This happens every now and then..... What could be some possibilities for this?
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Is the brake pad sensor on the driver's side only?
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Do a 2004 Saturn view front wheel drive transmission will fit in place of an all wheel drive...
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