Every morning 1.8T idles high when warming up usually takes a minute or two to idle down. When your running late kind of annoying when I drive before idle goes down to normal brakes seem way to responsive and jerky...
View 9 RepliesI have noticed thru the cold months after I start my 2001 F250 7.3L 4X4 after it sits about a minute "warming up" that it goes into a high idle. The high idle will stop once I press the brakes. Is this normal?
I think this is a unrelated issue, but just started over the weekend. Was riding home, and pressed my brakes and the pedal moved almost to the floor. Not normal conditions for my truck. Usually the pedal is very stiff. I have noticed that my power steering pump has had a hum for months. I changed the fluid (ATF Mercon) within the last 6k miles and that calmed it down a bit.
After the pedal went to the floor, the hum seemed to quieten down even more. The power steering still works and the reservoir has adequate fluid and so does the brake fluid reservoir. I haven't noticed any leaks around the truck. I'm going to bleed the brake in an hour or so. The brakes pedal seems stiff when I press it after the high idle, but then it gets soft after a pump or two.
I have a question about smelling burning oil. I have a 2005 passat 1.8t (4 motion) with 80,000 miles. Once in a while I smell what smells to be burning oil. It usually happens when the car is warm and sits and idles for a min. like when you would be at a stop sign and doesn't last long. There doesn't seem to be any blue smoke coming from the exhaust either....
View 5 RepliesI noticed that if i don't use my car for more than 3 days, it take my A/C compressor more than a minute to engage. Once it engages, every is ok. A/C is cold and everything is back to normal. Is that a safety feature for our compressor?
View 14 RepliesHave a 2004 GMC 4x4 extended cab light-duty Sierra 2500 with about 40 K miles. When attempting to start and drive the pick-up after the pick-up has been parked for a few weeks, the vehicle has to idle for perhaps 1 minute before the automatic transmission will start the move the vehicle. Also have similar 1991 GMC pick-up that will engage almost immediately after starting the vehicle, despite having been parked for a similar length of time. Did not seem to notice on 2004 when the vehicle was new, but, has become more apparent during the last year. GMC maintenance and repair have no explanation. Once the 2004 is warmed-up and driven, no problem - the transmission kicks-in immediately; but, not after being parked for any extended length of time. So what gives here?
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 Mountaineer, 5.0 auto that I just picked up. It takes some extra cranking to start it, and then when it does start it idles like it's missing. Also, the throttle response is not good. I have two codes that come back as soon as they are reset. P0340 (cam shaft sensor) and P0350 Ignition coil malfunction. I have been reading threads here saying that sometimes the P0340 can be the alternator it not always the sensor.
View 7 RepliesI have purchased a 2010 III Prius with 73K miles last week after my 2006, everything is fine for me but I have a scary problem , the engine sound is very high while driving even after enough warming up, specially when the ECO meter reaches the PWR area or when accelerating hardly, I tried changing the engine oil with synthetic 0W-20 and the filter and the sound still the same.
Check the video attached and also note that
- Its winter here and temp is 50F.
- The car was imported from the US,
- The speed in the video in KM/h.
- I am using clean OCTANE 95 fuel.
- The video was after driving 20 Miles.
- I have latest version of Techstream with original Mongoose MFC...
Car was working just fine. i changed the oil. after this, i have this problem:
Engine cold or go at freeway speeds = no problems
Engine hot and stop and go traffic = sometimes the engine will not rev above 1000rpm. when stepping on the gas, i will get a rough idle but engine would not go over 1000rpm.
I can shut off the car and wait some time, then the car will work again for a while.
No check engine light, no error codes, nothing .....
When start my Caprice (1986) carb-- I used to step on the gas pedal (half step is more than enough) to start the car.
Once the car started it's idling normally, but suddenly after 3 or 4 minute the sound of engine go high idling as if I stepped on the gas and that is remaining for long time even if I step full gas, and if I turnoff the the engine and pull out the key, the car will remain working hardly and shaking like crazy before it completely stop.
What is the problem with my 86 Caprice Brougham? is that problem easy to fix?
So I've been having this issue for a while and I think I know what it is, just wanting to confirm it is the problem before I go fixing it. My car idles at high RPM's, at around 1-2k when I am sitting at a stop sign or stop light. I replaced the MAF sensor but that wasn't the issue. I assume that it is the throttle body or the sensor.
Also, I came out the other day to park my car in the garage and I saw a huge puddle of water where the passenger puts his/her feet. It was all in the carpet and I just dried it up. It was raining out but I don't think I have a leak or anything. I was told it might be my heater core that went out and that the AC is the problem.
So, among other things my 06 Limited is acting a little weird when I start it up. If it's cold, as in hasn't run in a few hours, not so much temp, it idles really high for a while. I wait for it to come down under 1000 before rolling out. It makes a funny noise too. Sort of a tick-tick-tick with a little whine behind it. What it could be? How much it'd be to get it fixed? I'm past my 100,000, 107,000 to be exact. Of course the issues pop up after the warranty is up!
View 3 RepliesRecently my brakes were feeling a little spongy so I took my X to a local shop who installed new front and rear brake pads and flushed the brake fluid. The brakes seemed to operate properly.
But, then while driving on the interstate in Tampa, I had to SLAM on the brakes but it seemed like it took forever to slow down. It's hard to describe, but it's like when you are moving at interstate speeds and then you have to SLAM on the brakes, the X just slows down and comes to an eventual stop. It does not stop quickly.
I do not feel any pulsing from the antilock braking system so I don't think it is being activated for some reason. This seems to only happen at faster speeds. I have no problem when driving around town and slowing down for stop signs or red lights. It slows and stops just fine.
So I took the X back to the shop and they replaced the Booster w Ford booster. I thought I checked it out as soon as I picked it up around town AND on the interstate.
But, today I had to SLAM on the brakes while on the interstate again and it is acting just like before - just slowing down, but not fast and without the antilock brakes activating (apparently).
I have a 2003 Jetta. After it runs for awhile, if I have to shut it off and start it back up - I have to pump the gas to get it started and it idles high and gets flooded. I can smell gas after it gets started. A mechanic already replaced the ignition coil, which wasn't the problem at all.
View 3 RepliesMy 1992 chevy s-10 is running really bad it idles high ( like around 2000 rpm to 1000 rpm) it starts high then slows down. Then when i drive it, it kinda stumbles. Iguess u can say it makes all kinds of noises and beats and bangs and if I am going up a hill some times it shuts off. It has a manual trany and a stock 4.3 motor. I need the truck to get back and forth to work....
View 3 RepliesMy 2012 Hybrid engine will idle up after releasing the gas. The engine is sufficiently charged when this happens.
View 3 RepliesI own a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2 with an automatic transmission. I also own a 1991 Fleetwood Cadillac with an automatic transmission. Each car has its own situation.
The ZX2 idles high (about 1000 RPM) and rumbles pretty roughly while idling. I was curious as to what the cause might be.
The Cadillac has a blown head gasket and I was wondering how expensive and what would go into fixing this myself or just how much it would run going through a dealer.
Have a very high pitched squeal on cold starts as well as when idle occasionally.
Bad compressor?
I've read a lot on hear but can't seem to find what I need. I just replaced one of the battery cells. Now when I drive for about 20 min the engine idles high and the energy read out stops charging the hybrid battery. The AC recirculation turns off on its own. I have a few codes. the O2 sensor and cat code. The p3006. I had one cell that i didn't replace that was reading 6.9 volts. I thought that it would charge back up on its own. We went of vacation for 2 weeks and the car didn't get driven. I found out that's not good for an older prius.
View 5 RepliesMy 2009 Hyundai Accent 3-door GS (I believe) recently starting idling around 1,000-1,400 RPM. The car (since I bought it new) has always read "0" on the tachometer when I was stationary. Nothing has happened to suggest this problem would appear.
The engine isn't very loud to begin with, so I'm not absolutely positive that it isn't just an error with the tachometer, but I THINK that the car is actually idling higher than usual. The tachometer works fine otherwise, when I am driving.
What could be causing this and the corresponding fix? The car is under warranty, so I want to attack this issue as soon as possible.
My 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
I've got a 1994 Camry V6 that I am swapping transmissions from automatic to manual. Before the swap, the engine ran fine and started first time every time. Now that I have everything back together, the car will take many times of 10 seconds or longer cranking to be able to start. Once it does start, it idles very high and within 15 seconds will die. If, during the time it is running, you touch the gas at all, the car instantly dies. I've got CEL's for CPS and TPS. I have replaced both sensors numerous times, checking with a voltmeter they are within spec as are the wires, I have replaced the ECU and wiring harness.
View 5 Replies