Do the dsg Transsmissions have something built in, when you go down hill the rpm shoots at 3k'ish rpm. It's like when you down shift if you were driving stick. Soon as I went flat road went back to normal. Is this normal??
View 6 RepliesHow the synergy drive is working. Why when coming down on a long down hill (mountain pass for example) the car stays at high RPM ? That usually happens when battery is charge to its MAX of 80%.
View 19 RepliesI went to a friend's house uphill without switching gears. I stayed on drive the whole time. RPM did not exceed 4000. It went a little over 3000 while driving 40 mph. I didn't floor the gas pedal. I'd say the hill going up was pretty steep. I didn't realize how steep it was. Any way what gear should I switch to when I go downhill? I drive a 99 Passat 1.8t.....
View 3 RepliesMy 2006 B6 2.0T (K&N filter, Forge DV) has slowly lost it's "zippiness" over time,, and yes VW says "not a thing wrong with your car sir". Well now, I've started noticing that while going down hill in me neighborhood (about 30mph), note this has occurred before and after the DV install... My car's RPM starts to "flutter" (up and down continuously) from about 1100-1900rpm until I either come to a complete stop or go over 35-38mph to where I think the gear is engaged from the higher speed.
View 4 RepliesSo my 4motion downshifts going downhill while braking...it's annoying as hell! My DSG used to do the same thing but being a faster tranny it was actually NOT annoying... Is there a way to reflash the tranny software? Maybe with an older code because my 06 didn't do this but my 08 does...
View 5 RepliesTypically after driving for 5 minutes or so my temp gauge is in the middle at 200f. After about 15 min of moderate 35-45 mph driving it went down a notch below the 200 mark after it had reached 200f. I've noticed this happen a few times recently. I did notice that it happens while coasting downhill. I guess i'll be taking it it to my mechanic to take a look.
View 18 RepliesIn late 2011, I took my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T Wolfsburg (automatic) to get a 50k mile service. When I got it back, I realized that the car had problems shifting up to the next gear especially on straightaways and downhill. Usually on a downhill, one would not have to step on the gas and the car would shift into the next gear staying at a low RPM and saving somewhat on fuel.
However, on downhills I find the tachometer being stuck around 2500k RPM and it sounds like its struggling to shift. This leads me to switch to tiptronic (correct term?) to shift into the next gear and then let the car roll. This also resulted in more fuel consumption. When I took it back to VW explaining this they said there was no problem or they could not experience it. Hopefully, there is a solution or explanation before the "transmission is shot" result.
I have a 2011 GTI DSG. Is it normal when I go steep downhill the DSG to shift from 6th in 3rd gear? I am asking that because when I go downhill I slow down by braking then my DSG shifts from 6th in 3rd and I look at my RPMs jumping from 2000 to 3500 and I can feel the car trying to slow down with the engine. Is this normal for DSG or I have to visit my precious Dealer. I know it have to downshift but isn't that a little aggressive?
Also I have 34K on the clock. This is my second VW but first with DSG.
Traveling downhill, with no throttle input. The car is regenerating power as I coast down the hill. I hear the engine turn on and rev up. I glance at the Scangauge and see RPM is at 3045 or so. MPG is still 9999 and SOC is 77.
View 13 RepliesI Locked Differentials and put DAC on, but still car was Skidding while going downhill . Do I have to select any other options that will work with this skidding issue?
View 14 RepliesRight now my husband and I are driving from San Luis Obispo Ca to LA and back in a day. We noticed right before the grape vine on the I5 that the engine was really working, even on flat ground. Looked at the battery and it was purple. We have been driving for about 2 hours averaging about 70mph on mostly flat land. The battery finally charged itself on the big downhill of the grapevine (I5) but we're noticing we're running right through it again unless we start to break more. So, it's not getting any recharge during driving, just breaking. Can it be the generator? What causes this?
View 5 Replies2005 Ford Escape, 4-cylinder with ~75,000 miles. I experience engine misfire when driving on the highway after 1+ hours that only occurs when I'm going DOWNHILL. The misfire will last between 36-41 seconds and then goes back to operating fine. Doesn't occur on every downhill and doesn't occur on steep downhills during in-town driving. The diagnostics always show the error for cylinders 1 and 4. The following repairs have been made:
Replaced all 4 spark plugs and ignition coils, replaced fuel filter, fuel injectors cleaned and tested showing no concerns.
Misfires reoccur during next long drive 6 months later, compression test performed and failed. All four fuel injectors replaced and one connector replaced.
Misfires reoccurred again during next long drive 4 months later.
I am stumped as to why the problem keeps happening, why it only occurs when going downhill, and why it seems to last for a fairly consistent length of time.
I have a 2010 Chrysler 300 Signature Series. I have taken it to 3 mechanics re: this issue but no one can find anything wrong. For work I park in a 5 story parking structure. When I'm leaving and driving our of the structure, "downhill" , I coast slowly between the turns and when I lightly put my foot on the accelerator to drive around the corners/turns there is a loud "clunk" and you can feel a little "jerk" in the car. It happens everyday but the mechanics can't reproduce the sound or the jerk. What this can be? It has happened only twice when on a flat surface, again in the parking lot, when I'm slowly coasting looking for a spot and then give it a little gas to drive forward.. the "clunk" and "jerk".
View 4 RepliesAt around 70 mph when I am going down a hill the automatic transmission will shift down from overdrive into 3rd or even 2nd gear. It should stay in Overdrive. I have to tap the gas pedal to keep it in overdrive. They already looked at the TPS. Also, around 75 mph my ABS light goes on and stays on until I restart the car. Not sure if this is related. Just had a complete brake job.
View 19 RepliesI have noticed a couple times now on my Automatic S that the engine keeps revving an additional 1,000 - 2,000 rpms when I am braking going down a hill. Is this normal? It doesn't occur on flat roads or going uphill, but only downhill. It's almost as if it downshifts when I brake. Not sure if this is normal or not, but it just didn't feel right.
View 3 RepliesWe have a 2010 Tiguan SEL 4 motion automatic and today it just died after i pulled out of parking spot. the only light on the dash was the battery light. I restarted once i put it in neutral. When driving home my wife and i notice it was not downshifting when going down hill or when coming to a stop. This is not the usual behavior. It also seemed like it was costing in neutral when i was not in the throttle. I dropped it off at my usual dealer and hopefully they can duplicate it.
I am wondering if the battery or alternator is bad and the transmission computer was not getting good voltage and that made it act funny.
I'd like to stay in EV mode when driving my sons to school, but we live on top of a hill, and with a full charge, no matter what speed I go down that hill, the ICE always comes on. I've tried braking to limit my speed to 35 mph or 45 mph or just coasting, in which case I get up to 53 mph. It's usually about 60 degrees out and I don't use seat heaters or A/C. Is there anything I can do to stay in EV? I'm guessing the battery gets too full from the coasting and/or braking on the first half of the downhill and that's why it switches the ICE on halfway down. I sometimes wonder if I should use the timer to prevent the battery from charging up all the way...or just drive around the block a few times before going down the hill to "free up some space" in the battery for the energy I will get going down.
View 4 RepliesI have a 97' Passat 1.8T B5 AEB engine.(125k km)
3 days ago I was doing a track day and when the car was at 200km(less than 7000RPM) the EGT shows 930c at fifth gear.this is strange because 900c is the max to be on the safe side so I can't pass 200km even the car can go to 250km easy.
Today I notice that the EGT is 930c at 180km fifth gear,930c at 140km 3rd gear(!)
I must say that month ago I didn't have this issue, i ran 4th gear to 200km 7500RPM and EGT shows less than 900c, it was 880-890c
when driving 100-100km it shows 600-700c.
My setup:
GT28RS
FMC
440CC injectors
Big fuel pump
HKS BOV
Manual boost control (3 pipes)
2.75" from downpipe all the way
chip for GT28RS
Clutch Masters stage 3
The manual boost control set to 1.4 BAR
I have a 100% bone stock passat, except for APR stage 1 tune at 91 octane.
I was giving it some nut today racing a volvo, and i noticed at around 5500rpm, the rpm gauge stopped climbing so fast, and it felt like most of my power was gone, the earliest this happened was 5000rpm and I had some gears where it didn't seem to happen at all.
Like I said, bone stock, less that APR stage 1 91 octane, and an aftermarket head unit XD but if that caused any problems with my motor.
So my sister bought a 2007 Camry last year since she was impressed with the reliability of the 3rd gen Camrys we've been driving for the last decade. It's been a good car for the last six months but she's on the verge of selling it because of sudden transmission issues on top of the oil consumption problems that seem to be commonplace with this generation of 2.4L.
She says that her tach sometimes shoots up to about 3200 RPM when she taps the brakes going downhill and occasionally it feels like she's hitting pools of water on the highway. She also described hesitation followed by an extremely hard shift when braking more suddenly, such as avoiding people turning in front of her.
2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT 4.0L 47K miles. I am having a bad issue with the brakes.
I have had to replace the front brake pads and rotors 3 times and going on the 4th time IN LESS THAN 47K MILES. The brakes seem to work fine in city driving where the streets are flat. The problem is when driving on any kind of a downhill grade. If you try to brake on a downhill slope the brakes shudder so bad that you cannot only feel the steering wheel shake, you can SEE it shake.
The Dealerships say the problem is warped rotors and everything is fine after installing a new set or turning the old set. After the 2nd set of "OEM" rotors supplied by the dealerships (two different Dealerships to be exact), I got fed up and installed top of the line NAPA Ceramic pads and Rotors, which do the exact same thing after less than a year/7k miles. This van is not a commercial vehicle, and is not overloaded or used for towing.