Finally took the Wolf in to see about an engine rattle thats been getting worse. The culprit - loose engine mount bolts! Dealer decided to order new bolts, not just tighten the old ones. Also mentioned a recall for the transmission software. Odd that the "recall" wasn't listed on-line for my VIN. It must be the one that smooths the tranny a bit, it is a bit jumpy at low speed.
View 2 RepliesLong story short, over torqued the top two stretch bolts and destroyed the threads. We helicoil'ed both holes and put the bolts back in. That was about 4 months ago.
Today both bolts snapped not while moving. We dolly'd the car home and bought a replacement bracket, however all three bolts along the bottom that go into the transmission housing broke off inside.
I'm a tad stuck at this point. I could drill and tap new holes over the existing, but i question whether that is a good idea. My other thought was to get 3 of the larger stretch bolts that go in the top, completely drill out the three that are broken and tap the big ones in. This thought would also require drilling the bracket to make the larger bolts fit.
I have a 2001 Passat GLS 1.8T Tip 34500 miles... Loose heat shields. Well, I couldn't find anything to fix, so I brought it to the dealer. They said that this was common on 2001 Passats with about 30k miles. All stock.
These were the symptoms that the car was exhibiting: At first it was a minor rattle that occurred at 1200-1400 rpm.......only when the engine was warm, and only when I was in drive. (I could not reproduce it in neutral)...
A few weeks later, it the engine rattled upon startup for half a second. I assumed that this was just the heat shield issue getting worse. Dealer says that I have a bad cam tensioner, and that they will replace it under warranty. However, I had to reschedule the repair for this week because they couldn't fit the 5 hour job in on Saturday.
He said that there is a spring backup for the hydraulic tensioner, but to get it fixed soon. Obviously I was going to have it fixed ASAP. What this cam tensioner does? Isn't there a chain that connects timing belt to cam shaft? Why does this need a tensioner? Does it change in tension?
One thing I cant clear is how to fix the annoying door clicking. The one bolt behind plastic cover on body side isn't a torx 40 its a bolt/philips and its tight. My 2 bolts on door side dont seem to be getting tight. The doors still clik seems to be in join in middle of door arm.
View 11 RepliesSo i folded down my seats today to try and fit a box in and i noticed that the two lower unibrace bolts were unscrewed about half way. When i put it in, those bolts were pretty tight. There is a little movement if i push down hard on the bar. Those dam nutserts dont seem to be a good long term option. I mean if one of them was loose then , but both are loose, and the tops are perfect. Im guessing because maybe the bottoms are taking most of the pressure.
View 24 RepliesGeo Metro loose head bolts... I have a 96 Metro, and for some reason the head bolts loosen by themselves, leading to over heating and planing head ... well you know.I had a farm for 20 years and took care of all equipment myself, have rebuilt numerous motors, but this geo is the first I have seen where the bolts loosen. This is the third time. I know they are tightened right , because I have the tools and experience, but not with this. Other than jb weld in the bolt holes.
View 7 Replies2001 Explorer sport trac. I had a shop install new front pads because I couldn't brake the caliper bolts loose. I noticed they didn't use any grease on the pads from what I can see, and there has been a quiet rubbing/squeaking sound coming from the wheels (mainly when pressing the brakes). I assume it's the brake pads/caliper parts that still need to be greased. I have the right kind of grease and I'm about to do it, but what parts of the pads/caliper assembly need to be greased?
View 11 RepliesLast week when I had my car at Lexus dealership for the air bag recall, they took it upon themselves to do an inspection and came up with a few "recommendations".
The one that intrigues me is "found transmission mount worn/loose" recommend "replace transmission mount".
I will take car to my friendly local repair shop this week (never go to Lexus dealership unless it's free).
I'm no mechanic but I've been around cars for a long time and I've never heard of this before: besides the car only has 50000 miles on it.
Am I possibly being scammed or is this legit?
Are we supposed to put anti sieze on the turbo to pedestal bolts. They were really hard to break loose when I pulled it Cheater bar tight. 18 ft. lbs sound right ?
View 2 RepliesSo I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Passat 2.0t Sedan. My wife broke the front engine mount this morning and now it will crank, but will not start. Put my code reader on it and it is throwing camshaft position sensor, misfire cyl. 4, fuel rail pressure low, and Mass Air Flow sensor codes. It looks like the insert of the mount is wedged against the belt. Would the engine mount being broken cause any of these codes for some reason? and would the mount against the belt cause it to not start?
View 6 RepliesI have noticed new drivers seat squeak. It only happens with weight transfer side to side at lower speeds ( hard right and hard left below 30 mph, or entering a driveway). I have looked at several posts and it seems like people have had luck with simply tightening the bolts for the seat.
Well I did that and it still making the noise. I have isolated the noise to the lower part of the seat right behind the molding. Behind the molding and behind the seat control switches there is a white box for the switches. It seems like the noise is coming from there. I noticed that if I pop off the control switches and I loosen the screws for the control switches the noise gets a touch better.
I took it to the dealership and they told me they tried to add some oil between the leather and the molding but it did nothing since the source seems to be behind the molding.
I changed my dogbone mount over the weekend. Did not get a oem but got one from advance auto for 50 bucks. So I noticed a vibration when I'm in reverse or drive. I got some vids of the engine running. Could the cheap mount I got just be causing more vibration than the old one?? Which was cracked?
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I replaced my front brakes today and not sure if I got the rattle clip back on right as it seems loose. After driving for a little bit, it seems the clip might be wiggling it self loose.
In addition to this, my brakes sounds terrible. Lots of squeals.
I have replaced many brakes and never ran into this issue before. I cleaned everything up and greased the contact points with brake grease. I then did the bed in process that Hawk recommends for their pads.
I have a 07 prius with 60k Km. right now, everytime i go thru a hole, there is always a noise like something is loose. It also sounds like a rattles too. The noise seems to came from the front driver side tire (i have the right side driver japan version prius ). I assume it was the shocks / struts that needs replacement.
View 1 RepliesEverytime I run my revs past 4 and shift, I can hear a steel rattle right at the shift. It's stock exhaust btw, no mods...
View 24 RepliesMy wife drove her new (2000 miles) Prius 4 home (300 miles) with a rattle from the left rear. Dealers were totally unresponsive - either put me on voice mail or said I had to wait a week for an appointment. The third dealer I called said I could bring it in and they might take a look at it. Five days later I have a new shock and a bill for the rental car. Not what I expected from Toyota! I noted that one other person on Priuschat had a problem with a loose rear shock.
View 12 RepliesIve been having problems with my o2 sensor behind the left cat coming loose and causing a horrible rattle. Ive tightened the hell out of it a few times and it lasted around 4k miles each. recently i tightened it again and it comes loose within like 20 miles. I was gonna put lock tight on it but with the wiring going into the sensor i cant back it all the way out. I just said screw it and put some JB weld metal putty on it to hold and it lasted like 2 days and now its rattling again. I guess next step is find out how to take apart the sensor so i can un thread and lock tight it....electrical stuff scares me though.
View 3 RepliesMy '99 V6 30V w/ 59K miles has started to make a strange noise. It is quiet until warmed up, then the sound starts. I suspect something emmisions-wise is activating after warmup.
It sounds like a rattle, or gulping, about 2-3 hz, fluid or air I can't decide. It does increase w/ throttle, but not proportionally - it just speeds up a bit. volume is pretty steady, it doesn't get louder.
So, I don't think it's in the valve train. Perhaps intake? Is there something that might be "flapping" in there, some sort of proportioning valve? (mine is NOT a VR6, it's the 30-valve Audi engine).
I think it's "sucking" related, if that makes sense. I checked the PCV pipes, a little gunky but clear; no cracks found. The combi-valve is working, tho there was a vacuum leak in its line which has been fixed. The secondary air-injector motor runs normally - the sounds isn't realted to it running.
I've looked all over, it is not something vibrating nearby in the engine compartment. The engine runs fine otherwise, but I suspect something is on the way out. I don't think it's water pump either, since the noise isn't tied to engine rpm.
My 2012 Avalon developed a slight rattle at 9000 miles that continued to get worse. I took off the right front wheel today and found the top caliper bolt partially loosened. I could turn it with my FINGERS! The other one was tight as were the ones on the left side.
To diagnose this rattle, find a bumpy road that makes it rattle. Put your foot lightly on the brake (to load the caliper). If the noise goes away, it is probably a loose caliper bolt.
Just changed out the struts on my ACV36R Camry Altise. Fitted up some nice Monroe GT struts and Kings Springs (front and rear) as well as new Nolathane bushes throughout.
Now, everything is tight, checked over every nut and bolt with a torque wrench to the correct specs but I have a loose rattle sound coming from the front right strut. What it could be before I tear the whole lot out again? I've been around it with a rubber mallet trying to isolate the rattle but I can't replicate it by hitting any of the components that I've replaced.