Passat (B7) :: Driver Side Of Trunk Rubbing - Alignment?
Mar 7, 2014
Within one week of ownership of my new 2013 Passat, I noticed the driver's side of trunk rubbing and had techs "align" the trunk at 30 days. Before the recent 10,000 mi service, I did a walk around to see if there was anything I should have serviced and noticed the passenger side hinge was rubbing on the wheatherstrip and tore through. So, I took it in under warranty. I called after 10 days of no car; the techs apparently "realigned' the trunk and were awaiting a replacement weatherstrip. I love my B7s (yes, we have two!) but there's been obvious assembly issues (our 2012 had paint drip issues on the mirror so had that corrected without a problem whatsoever).
So, I finally got my car back from the dealership after 42 days! The service advisor told me he was fighting with VW to get the bumper replaced because there "is something wrong with it". That issue is still open, unresolved. As for the trunk hinge/wheatherstrip issue, the fix provided minimal clearance. I compared the clearance to two other Passats (one was a 2013 S that was my loaner for 42 days and the other was a new SE on the floor). Both had ample clearance. The body on mine isn't right - the trunk cavity opening is not wide enough by a mm or so. I know my lemon law rights and will be pursuing a case. At a minimum, my car was in service for a long time and that has devalued my car for resale purposes.
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So a few weeks ago more (more like end of Jan) I was sitting in the car listening to the radio and battery dies... didn't know it was dead until i tried to start her up... ever since then the key fob remote only unlocks the drivers door and the trunk???
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I can open all the doors if I press the unlock button on the driver's side. However, suddenly, the remote (both remotes) will unlock only the driver's door & the trunk, but not the passenger & rear doors.
Locking the door manually with the key did nothing. We just replaced the car's battery (it's been 5 years), but that didn't solve the problem with the keyless entry remote. One of the remotes is rarely used (1x/week), so I'd be astonished if both keyless entry remotes needed batteries at the same second.
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Every time I open then close either of the driver side doors (haven't tried passenger yet), I hear a thumping noise coming from the trunk.
When I opened the trunk to see what it was, the noise stopped. Only with trunk closed does this happen.
Could it be air pressure causing the trunk lid to move? I didn't think the car was that air tight.
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When I open my door or the driver's side passenger door, there is a thwump or suction- like noise that sounds as if it is coming from the trunk.
I had a repair done a few weeks back and had a loaner 2014 TDI SE, and it had the exact same sound.
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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I bought a used 2006 Scion XA. At the time the front driver side window worked, but it had clearly been shattered and replaced. The hard plastic molding to the right of the window is permanently damaged. After I had the car for a year, the window went down unevenly and then started to tip inside the car when I tried to roll it up. Took it to the dealership and they got it back up. They said the glass had come out of the tabs at the bottom of the glass. I called a glass company, and they said they wouldn't reglue the glass into the tabs and would only replace the entire window for $285. A few months ago I went for a quick oil change, and before I could tell them not to roll down my window, they had. They took the door panel off in order to get my window back up. They said I needed a new regulator. Will a new regulator fix my window? Does the regulator have anything to do with the tabs at the bottom of the glass?
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Door on the T-reg that is hard to get latched completely? I'm finding a need to reopen/slam the driver's door on a regular basis. Is this something the dealer can "adjust" for me? What would it involve? I don't think the other three doors need to be slammed anywhere near as hard.
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I just had my Prius retrofitted using the TRS Retro-Quik with the Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 projectors. Looks like the rotational alignment of the drivers side projector is rotated too far clockwise. Is it possible to fix the rotational alignment without taking the headlight apart again?
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My window came off the two metal u-shaped clamps that hold it to the lift mechanism. I know it was factory glued into the clamps (saw the "gunk" left when removed). My first attempt at repair failed when one clamp loosened due to improper alignment. Repair? (proper adhesive, alignment/positioning, etc)
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I'm having some rubbing issues on the rear driver side after installing 19" vossens. I'm lowered on S-techs. The bump stops were cut per instructions. I'm wondering if I replace the cut bump stops with new ones, could this minimize the rubbing by limiting the suspension travel?
I'm only rubbing on dips and when the car is weighed down. My other option would be replace the teins with RSR down's along with new bump stops.
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A rubbing sound that began with lower temps (winter here). It occurs when going over bumps - even small. Does not occur at highway speeds. Gets quite loud. Does not have to do with steering or heat as far as I can determine. Some times does not occur at all. Don't know if any relation, but recently the dome light is coming on when coming to a complete stop.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe, and I don't really know what the exact term for it is, but the plasticy/rubbery coating on on the window sill inside the cabin is rubbing off from what I assume to be my elbow sitting on it (seems strange).
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I took my car in the other day for 4 new tires at 8am I drive home 2 miles from the place. I work nights so I sleep all day. As I was going to work at 11pm I noticed it sounded like the front drivers side tire was rubbing up against the car when I turn the wheel from left to right. I took it back to the place I got the tires from. I thought something might be adjusted wrong or something. They call me to tell me that the tires are fine and the problem is that I need a new power steering pump. There was no noise or steering problem previous to me getting the tires.
I took it to pep boys (the only place open last night). They say the pump needs to be replaced along with racks and pinions..etc. I ask if the leak can be slowed or stopped with one of those stop leak products and they say no. The fluid just drains right out. Is there something the guy that put my tires on could have messed up to cause this problem?
I spent a lot for the tires and within 5-10 miles later this problem starts. The car has over 250000 miles on it and I cant justify spending that much money to repair it but at the same time Im in a bind financially (medical bills, divorce) to get another car right now. I realize even if they did mess it up when they put the tires on, they wont admit to it anyway.
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Installed eibach springs on the 7th gen camry? I installed mine this weekend, and I'm getting a like a rubbing sound when I turn the wheel from only the driver side. I removed the strut and spring combo to make sure everything was installed and aligned properly and it was. Just can't put my finger on why its only making that sound on the driver side.
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I have a 2013 Elantra. There is a rubbing type noise in the driver front when braking and turning right. It only rubs(catches) in one spot. Almost like a pulsation, however doesn't pulsate. Hard to describe. Has a new wheel bearing. There are new pads and rotors (two sets of rotors). Took to my Hyundai dealer today. They can't find anything visible. They said only option is to start adjusting/replacing parts as trial and error.
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Trunk release switch on drivers door does not open trunk. Remote and key will open trunk. Sounds like a motor is trying to close the trunk when it is being closed, but does not pull it shut ?
1. I did pull on the switch
2. Gas door switch works fine
3. It is a standard trunk (not powered)
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I have a 2011 Jetta TDI and the drivers side tail light on the trunk is out. I opened the trunk and popped the cover off the rear of the tail light and it seems the connector is loose. I tried for about 10 or so minutes to get it back into place but I couldn't. I don't know if the connector is broken or if my hands are just too large to fit into the area. I plan on taking it back to the dealership to get them to fix it. I just picked up the car. Is this a sign of wiring issues or just someone at the factory jamming a connector into a hole so they could move on a couple of seconds faster?
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I have 7mm spacers and when I take a hard turn, I get like an almost bouncing, rubbingish, thudding noise and feeling from my driver side wheel/tire area. I have FK coils. Do I need bigger front spacers? I have RC's btw, it gets worse as I go lower, and seems to go away if I really raise it up... how does everyone get away with this?
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The trunk lock switch on the d/s inner door panel has stopped working. Also both remotes won"t open the trunk as well. Everything else seems to be OK.
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My trunk doesn't seem to open electrically any more - that is, the button on the driver's side nor the button on the key fob will open the trunk. All I hear when I attempt either of these methods is a click near the fuse box. I do not hear the actuator at all. It worked intermittently for a few months, but now it seems to be completely dead. My google searches led me down two paths - either the actuator itself is broken or the wiring going from the latch to the actuator is messed up.
I removed the actuator from the trunk and tested it using a different power supply. It seems to work fine when I apply 12v through the leads. I also connected my multimeter to the connector that plugs into the actuator (the connector is hooked up to the wires coming from the front of the car). When I push the trunk button on my key, it spikes to 11v, then drops back to 0. To me, this indicates that there is no flaw in the wiring.
I even re-soldered the wires where it tends to kink on the drivers side in the trunk (It looks like they have been previously DIYed so I thought something may have come loose there), but that doesn't seem to have worked. As far as I can tell, the wires seem to be working fine by testing through the multimeter, and the actuator seems to be fine by testing from an alternate supply.
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