Passat (B7) :: Driver Feet Area Stay Cold - Airflow Level Is Not Adjusted Accordingly
Feb 19, 2015
As stated in the title, my feet stay cold for a long time after the car fully warms up, and I can't feel much if any airflow under the dash. I tried going from auto to directing all flow to the floor, zero change, even with the fan on high.
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Even though my climate control system is not in auto mode, it still has a mind of its own. When I run my a/c, the airflow intensity level changes, and the system switches to defrost about every 5 minutes or so (even when there is absolutely no need for defrost). I continually have to set the system back to my comfort level. What causes this, and how do I fix it?
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I hear a knocking sound or a rumbling sound underneath feet area of my 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe when driving over bumpy roads or when traveling over a "washboard" type of road. Shocks & struts appear OK.
Could it be a bad swaybar bushing? How difficult would it be to change on my own? What else could it be? Looking for a schematic for this vehicle to check out all types of bushings?
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I noticed yesterday while driving the RX (not my daily driver) that when I turned on the A/C to bi-level (chest & feet) it only blew cold air at the chest level while at the feet level it was warm air. If I remember correctly from the past that the feet got cold too so I tried it with the vents only at the feet, still warm air. I even checked to make sure that I didn't have it on bi-level with defroster in use.
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When I bought my 2004 Passat three months ago, I was told that the clutch was brand new. Lately when I take a corner in second gear, I get a "whole car seizure" if I am hitting the gas a little hard while not letting up the clutch enough. I've never had this happen before in ANY of the other standards I have owned / driven.
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So I've been having a problem getting in and out of my drivers side door. It got really cold and snowy here and one day I went to close my door and it wouldn't stay latched. Figured maybe something froze and it just stuck but once I finally got it to close I couldn't get it to open again even once the weather stabilized.
Finally one day it just opened and has been fine ever since but now the door won't lock and the light on the bottom of the door stays on. I had this problem once before and it turned out to be a loose solder joint that I fixed.
My guess is I should just buy a new locking mechanism for that door. Is there something that can cause all the doors be somewhat finicky? All the doors seem to not lock on occasion or open when it appears to be unlocked.
Last thing, I tried to take out that bulb so I wouldn't kill the battery but I accidentally touched the two leeds and the fuse is fine but I think I fried a relay because my dome light no longer works and I can't get the sunroof to close. Looked it up and found something about an accessory relay.
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When lowering your vehicle one side has to be adjusted alot more. I was lowering my vehicle to make the rear even. Notice that the passenger rear had to be lowered more than the driver side.
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I just installed the Nav system in my B6 but can't seem to get the volume adjusted correctly for the Nav. I have an Avura previously and the radio would mute down when the navi instructions where on. I found the audio adjustments for the nav systems but can't find anyplace to tell me what the adj are for.
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I recently changed my ATF. I refilled with Hyundai SP-III like a good little boy. The ATF fluid level is correct. It's right in the "Hot" range when the car is idling at operating temp.
Now, when I back out of my driveway when the vehicle is totally cold, then put in Drive, I hear a slight knocking sound after I get about 50 feet away. It's a single knock, not very loud, but discernible. If I drive even 1/2 mile and try again (i.e. back up a bit, then put it back in Drive), I can't reproduce it. It's only when the car is first backed out and driven away.
I have around 15K left on the warranty. I'd feel silly bringing it to the dealer for this, unless someone knew of an issue this might be a symptom of.
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In the first two years of ownership of my Passat, when I would turn the car on during cold days, the rpms would stay at 1500 for a quick 20 seconds until the car got a bit warm and then would drop down to about 800. Recently, when I turn the car on cold days, the rpms drop directly to 900 and below.
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Happened last week - both front seats can't be adjusted anymore back and forth - just slide freely.. Is there a way to fix this?
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I have a similar door rattle near the door lock area on the driver's side. It sounds like metal touching metal. I took the door panel off and found nothing loose or unusual. The rattle is driving me crazy.
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After more than an hour of continuous AC operation, something seems to be blocking the air flow coming out of the vents. Could it be ice forming on the evaporator?
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My dad just brought home his new 98 Passat V6 wagon! So were washing it for the first time, and he notices that the rain tray is missing. no big deal.
But we also found that there is water pooling up in the drain tray area on the driver's side. Its way back in the corner. Drivers side, right in the corner of the firewall.
Where the drain plugs are around there? I have the Bentley manual, but thought someone out there might have a readily available answer.
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2001 Passat Wagon ... After a heavy rain last night I noticed a very wet driver side floor area. My car was parked and I've never noticed any wetness while driving. What are the steps to take to figure out where the leak is?
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After driving our 2013 Passat for 215 miles, we noticed that there was a rattling noise coming from the left front wheel area but only at slow speeds (under 10 mph). The noise disappeared at higher speeds. Today, we took the car to the dealership but they could not find anything wrong.
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When I run the heater on high to be directed through the dash and foot areas here in Wisconsin, I receive wonderful heat from the dash, but ice-cold air to the feet. What is going on? Do I have a clogged heater core or line? Or could this be an easy fix I could do myself?
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I've been getting this error code recently ("Fuel Trim,Bank1 System too Lean"). I have a Scanguage, which let me get the error code, and I used it to reset the message - it came back about a week later. I took it to a local repair shop after the second time, but as I'd already cleared the message, he couldn't do anything. It came back about a week later, and this time I took the vehicle in as soon as the yellow light showed up (without connecting the Scanguage).
The mechanic said that he found both P0171 and P0172, and that the problem was a loose vacuum hose AND a failing Mass Airlow Sensor. They reattached the hose and cleaned the sensor, but said that the latter fix may not last - the light came back on two days later. I took it in again (this time, checking the codes, and found only P0171) and he said this confirms the problem with the sensor and he'll have to replace it ($280 for the part, plus labor, less a discount on the labor equivalent to the labor he put in to clean the sensor.)
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I'm experiencing a weird problem with my Passat (2000 TDi 110), where the brake pedal is buzzing at my feet when braking from slow speeds. If I am doing around 5-10mph and lightly apply the brakes, it sometimes buzzes in the peddle and I can't apply full pressure (this can be tricky when behind another car!), but if I take my foot off the pedal or wait around 3 seconds, the buzz and pressure restriction goes and then I end up braking quite sharp as the pressure releases. The buzz is quite audiable and can be heard by others in the car and sounds quite electronic. Pads and Discs are fine, they will need replacing soon, but this issue has been going on for a while, so I don't think it's related to them.
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its kinda like its freezing up; the pin wont go down sometimes and I have to cycle it multiple times b4 it will descend.
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I've read the pages on engine oil level and changes in the awesome 2004-2009 manual by John's Stuff - Toyota Prius and more.
Great information on overfilling of engine oil. Among others I read:
"The ideal level is 1/4” (one-quarter inch or 6 millimeters) below the "full" mark, which is between the D and the E on the photo above." (p.27)
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