I have had my B7 for about 6 Months now and love the car except that the car sounds worse than my MK4 and the B6 that it replaced. I have solved most of the rattles and queaks and cracks but as soon as I fix them a week later I have 5 new ones. I have attempted to fix them using different sizes of felt pads after a few trips to the dealer and the fix kits did not work.
View 17 RepliesNoticing rattles, squeaks and/or buzzing vibrations?
I have a rattle from the rear driver's side, a vibration from the passenger-side dashboard and a squeak in or near the front passenger seat. I feel like I'm losing my mind!
Own a gen 6 or 6.5 carry so that has the huge rear plastic dash? I currently have 2011 set with the jbl system and every single time I bump some music at like volume 26-27 my rear dash rattles like crazy from the dash and my bass is at 0/5. it's driving me crazy.
View 14 RepliesI have real vibrations when braking. What could be the cause? I think its a warped rotor. Also.. What are your opinions on cross drilled rotors. I hear they are good with disapating heat but i heard they wear down break pads quickly.
View 5 RepliesRattling going on in my dash. The computer is causing some noises inside the dash. The worst part are the irregular bass noises that are heard near the glove compartment. I can live with the other sounds, but the bass noises near the glove compartment are very annoying. Looking for a solution to elliminate those noises easily?
View 3 RepliesToday while driving I heard a pop and than my car got extremely loud with increased vibrations. The noise is not terribly loud at idle but extremely loud while accelerating. I also noticed at idle it seems that nothing is blowing out the exhaust tips
My question is, if the flex pipe is covered under the extended emissions warranty and if is not covered by the warranty would a catless dp fix my problem?
Not long ago I fitted after-market rims to my 2006 Passat 2.0 FSI HighLine, I changed from 215/55/16 to 235/45/17 with Falken ZE912 tires, all new. The center hub of the Passat is 57.1(as far as my knowledge goes) and the wheel hub seem to be 66.6, the shop who installed my rims inserted a 57.1 to 67.1 poly-carbon hub rings which needed some force to fit into the wheel, the vibrations did not stop. All 4 wheel&tires were balances 2 times on one machine then a third time on a different machine just to be sure, still the same. I didn't preform a front alignment yet as i didn't believe it's needed, although right now ill try anything...
Anyway i then measured the rim hub diameter which seems to be 66.6. I bought a set of 57.1 to 66.6 poly-carbon rings, they also needed a bit of force to fit in the wheel, still there is no improvement and the car vibrate under acceleration. I would like to add at this point that i had no vibrations what so ever with the old rims and tires even though the tires were quite worn. I am thinking maybe i need the 57.1 to 66.1 size? Or perhaps i should use aluminum rings instead of plastic?
Is a size difference of 0.5 can make that much of a difference? I know an aluminum ring wont fit unless its the perfect size, and plastic are a bit more elastic meaning like in my case, they can fit in a smaller rim with a bit of force. Should I aim for a ring that fit perfectly without the need of applying force? Can it be that a 66.6 ring, fitted in a 66.1 rim is not eliminating the vibrations just because its off by a 0.5 mm and needed a bit of force getting inside?? I though that as long as the ring fits inside the wheel it will work but obviously its not..
So yesterday afternoon I did my driving thing. First stop I made I put it in reverse to pull out of the inverted parking ramp and had to apply gas to do so. And just got a nasty vibration coming out of the front end. A few times during my drive I would find an open lot to test reverse under load and get the exact same thing. I also noticed between 55-65 I would get slight vibration on the highways (Could just be balance since I'm on new tires). Well, I was thinking maybe a CV issue since reverse under load is where you typically feel that first, so I jacked her up this morning and cranked on the drive lines. Nothing seemed loose or sloppy and just got the usual clanking noise in the auto tranny when switching directions.
View 6 RepliesIt sounds horrible, I don't know what VW did but with these Fender speakers but they really sound horrible. Everything rattles.. Then I asked them to install the Jetta anti rattle kit and they didn't even know what I was talking about...saying they never heard of anything like that before.
View 13 Replies2008 Passat 45k. No accidents. Towed twice on flatbeds due to bad fuel pump. Tires were rotated every 10k or so.
I'm wondering if there are any suspension (or wheel) issues that can lead to maybe tire wear and a loud oscillating noise. I had factory Goodyear Eagles 235/45-R17's that started to develop a very loud speed-dependent oscillating noise that definitely came from the tires, but I can't tell if it's one tire or more than one. I just had them replaced though I was not quite yet down to the wear indicators. My new Continentals are of course pretty quiet, but occasionally I think I hear very faint oscillations again on certain surfaces at high speed.
I'm worried that I might trash these new tires. I had to have an alignment/balance/rotation at about 30k due to minor steering vibrations at highway speeds. The noise started around 37k and got louder and louder. About this same time I had a flat tire that was immediately repaired; I noticed uneven wear on this flat tire which I attributed to the previous minor alignment/balance problem. I usually find out about any low pressures by the dash light, so I'm pretty sure my tire pressures are usually good. I rotated at 40k with a minor improvement that got bad again after about 1k.
So I've been able to suppress all of the rattles in my car except one: The cluster trim right above the display rattles, it creaks, hell, I can hold a conversation with it. What can be done to remedy it? The 'turn up the radio' technique doesn't work.
View 3 RepliesIssues with either a CEL for evap emissions gross leak or a constant Gas Cap Light popping up...? My dealer says its probably some part of the purge system, possibly the purge valve or charcoal canister... How the system works and what parts are major players?
View 8 RepliesHad a constant CEL two week ago, the car was shaking because the misfire. I went to an european auto shop, it ended up with replacing the intake manifold valve and charged me $700. They explained the valve could not be closed, and that caused a misfire(s). There were three fault codes on report.
This week, I got another constant CEL. I went to the shop and they charged me $50 for scanning the code. and told me it is a misfire on Cylinder 2. there is no fault on intake manifold valve. They dont fix that for free. I went back home and open the engine cover. The ignition coil 2 was replaced. Now, I really doubt if they replaced my valve or not. maybe just changed the coil and reset the alarm.
I have swapped coil 2 and coil 3 to see if the fault follows the coil. How can I verify if they replaced my manifold valve?
2002 V6 2.8L Passat 4mo wagon, I have 113K on my car, after changed timing belt I have been fixing oil leaks constantly. Not sure that these are related, but, co-incidental. These are not cheap to fix, so ... Having oil leak issues with this engine? Should I just keep fixing these until it finally dies?
View 24 RepliesSo i had a burning oil smell for 2 years. I finally brought it to the shop and had the valve cover gasket changed as well as the chain tensioner gasket. I now have a constant burn smell. It cannot be burn off because when i open the hood i see it dripping on the cat. converter i just cannot see from where. I seems to be right behind the heat shield that covers the edge of the valvle cover. What else could be wrong here?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 Passat 1.8T and I am having a weird "harmonic" (for lack of a better word) vibration that is constant from start up to shut down, I just had the motor mounts replaced and the chain tensor replaced, I have 125K the car. Tires are new as of April and I have had this issue long before then. I have also noticed randomly the idle goes kind of physco for a few seconds here and there - not sure if the two are related.
View 2 RepliesI have a dry metal on metal squawk noise when I reverse, I have taken it to a VW dealer, and they say "there is nothing wrong", or that they "cannot find anything". The noise is not constant, just when I apply the brakes in reverse.
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2003 Passat GLX, 43000 miles, V6, AWD. I've noticed recently that when driving at constant speed the engine will surge about once every second or two. It's very regular, and on a smooth road I can also notice a bump in the drive train, very similar to road bumps.
I've taken it to a dealer, since I believe it is a transmission issue, and therefor covered under warranty. There are no computer codes stored for faults in the transmission, they've said. However, they started by pursuing the fuel injection system (though no code was stored), and then wanted to fix a faulty coolant sensor (since found not to be faulty).
I am new and just picked up a used 2008 Passat yesterday. It has 42k miles and what I had thought in perfect condition. I wanted to see what was going on before I took it into the dealership to get repaired. When driving I hear a constant whine / (like water is on in a house) type noise. Its noticeable all the time except when the brake is fully applied. It comes back once the brake is depressed and in park. I thought at first maybe it was just a brake pad rubbing but the constant noise in Park confirms its something else.
View 2 RepliesRecently it feels like the transmission is 'hunting' drops a gear, picks up a gear when driving constant speed on flat roads. 2.0T with tiptronic. Additionally, very intermittent, the car will get a shimmy around 48-50 mph. feels more transmission related and it is not the tires since it is an intermittent issue.
View 3 Replies2012 Passat SEL ... I got new tires put on a few weeks ago and have a new rattle, sounds like glass tapping against glass or metal on metal. It only happens when I'm cruising around 65 mph. From where I am in the drivers seat, it sounds like it's coming from the drivers rear tire area or under/behind the center console/dash board. I know it's not a lot of info, but need to figure out what's going on.
View 1 Replies