Passat (B7) :: Car Stopped And Started Again Quickly
Mar 3, 2016
So after the passat has tried to eat its own gearbox i've been having more troubles with the EGR but only on a long run so i've left it alone.
At 6:30 this morning i just got off the motorway and the motor stopped and started again quickly. After the lights it went dead and i rolled to a stop in the middle of the road. The car would not start so i pushed it to the side and started to try and get it going. The dash was reporting parking brake error and ESC error but it would not turn over at all. I tried loads of time and left it for 5 mins but nothing. Its been recovered to the garage again now.
I ran it through VCDS and got a bunch of errors, the common one coming up was 01314 - Engine control Module (004 - no signal/communication) and two other under parking brake ECM and 03182 - Clutch Position Sensor (G476) (010 open or short to Plus)
I've done some googling and been back to check the fuses (which there is no map for!) and found nothing.
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Why my stereo stopped working? I had to jump start my car, 2005 Passat TDI (B5) and now the stereo will not turn on. I checked the fuse on the drivers side, they were all good, say which fuse is for the stereo..
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ok i have a 1.8T atw passat 2000. when boost 18 psi my car starts to buck and then my psi goes down to 10 really quickly like something is being cut off. i also have a p0301 misfire in cylinder 1. I switched my ignition coils around and replaced one and i also changed my spark plugs(not the cheap autoparts store kind). i checked my vacuum hoses and no tears. i put fuel injector cleaner in my tank when i filled up ( two bottles). it might be my fuel injectors but that would be too easy to fix. So I am thinking its something mechanical. I want to know what could be wrong mechanically. My friend thinks could it be a blown head gasket. is this true?
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Having an intermittent problem when starting the car.
The car quickly shutting off right after starting while still in Park.
It does not do it all the time, but about every 3rd of 4th start attempt it will do this. If I step on the accelerator, I can avoid the car from shutting off.
The car has 62k miles and spark plugs were replaced at 50k.
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Ok, I just started to notice that when Im driving at night, the display for my ac/heater panel almost quickly turns off and then back on. It is fast enough that I thought it was me. Last night I sat and watched it for a few min and it stopped "glowing" for a split second then went back to normal.
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My car has about 37k on it; and while the front pads look to be about 50% worn; the rears look like they are closer to 90%. Is this normal? The car is also sluggish while braking especially when the engine is being auto-revved to keep the system voltage up (a known problem). It also seems that the car will step into ABS lock-up mode too soon in a panic stop situation; which might also indicate that the brake system is biasing too much power to the rears; too little to the fronts.
I've never had a car wear the rear brakes more rapidly than the fronts; usually the rears are much more lightly utilized to reduce the tendency to skid. Is there any way to adjust brake bias? I'm getting ready to change rear pads and flush brake fluid.
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Something strange happened this morning and I can't find anything .
Got out of the car (2007) and locked it with the remote. The alarm light flashed quickly multiple times, almost like something was wrong, door not closed tight, etc. The doors locked, but it would not give me the audible beep that it normally does. Went around and opened and closed all doors and trunk to make sure they were closed tight, and they were.
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I have 2008 VR6 4 motion wagon with about 98K miles. It has been relatively trouble free and I love the car. To try and make it last I am trying to stay on top of maintenance. I had a VW warranty until 72K and got several things fixed along the way. But, I had asked about the one weird thing it does well before it went out of warranty to no avail ("no trouble found").
The weird thing is that sometimes it sort of stutters when I slow down from a high rate of speed quickly, like exiting a freeway. I described it to my new mechanic (no longer beholden to the dealership mechanics) when I was speculating a new transmission might be in order at some point and he said it was probably an issue with the program that tells the transmission when to downshift and to ask about a software update. I did; none available.
Is it firmware related, how to get it fixed?
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Our B5.5. wagon with 1.8t and automatic just went in for recall work. Embarrassingly, I don't even know what the recall was for, I only remember something about cars catching on fire.
Since we picked it up the AC only works for maybe 10 minutes at a time and then switches off. The engine temp gets really high and then cools back rather quickly. Occasionally the temp warning goes off. We scheduled an appointment to take it back in to the dealer but of course they can't take it till next week.
In the mean time, have any of you experienced something similar? Perhaps the AC goes off because of the engine temp sensor? Better to overheat the passengers than the motor? If so then the problem is the temp or the temp sensory?
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Traded in my 2006 mustang gt for a 2006 2.0T passat last week. As I was driving the car to work today the check engine light started blinking and the car started to vibrate as if it were about to shut off. The light eventually stayed on, I took it the the dealer and there not sure what the problem is, they say they've never seen this before.
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I have an 06 Prius with about 170k miles. The hybrid battery was replaced shortly before I bought the car last year.
About a month ago, the red triangle warning light started coming on when I'm stopped. It usually stays on for a few seconds once I start moving again. The MFD just says "Problem" for a few seconds, then displays the icon for a headlight. Once the light clears, the MFD goes back to its normal display. Originally, it was lighting up once every other day or so, but now it's lighting two or three times per trip. I'm going to have to do something about it, but I'm trying to get my head around what to expect.
My understanding is that the red triangle could mean anything from "The door is open and you're moving. Please close it." to "Your car is about to melt down! Seek cover!". I have an Automatic OBD dongle, and it's not reading any diagnostic codes. But as I understand it, there's a whole different set of diagnostic codes that a "regular" OBD reader won't catch.
I keep seeing reference to ScanGauge devices -- do they read the second set of diagnostic codes? I talked to a mechanic in the area who will read the codes for about $100. Is the mechanic likely to be reading the codes with that tool/is that what a dealer would use to read the codes? Is the dealer likely to charge to read the codes?
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I have a problem with my A/C Compressor. The other day while going down the freeway my belt started squealing for a few seconds then stopped. Yesterday when my wife was driving it did it again, and then another time while at idle and the engine struggled and almost died.
I went to look at it last night thinking maybe the belt was loose, but what i found was when the A/C Tried to engage, you here the click, and you see the compressor clutch jolt but not spin. It tries to engage 3-4 times before the system stops and the ac light blinks. Also found some burnt belt on the clutch pully. To me it sounds like the Compressor is locked up or frozen somehow inside.
My first instinct is to get a new compressor. Ive done a bit of mechanic work but not much on A/C. If i replace the compressor, do i just have a shop vac it out, replace, and recharge? car has 150,000 miles, do i need to replace any other components? 2002 V6 Camry....
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I have a 2005 Excursion 6.0 ... .. A few months back the horn started sounding on its' own in the night, so I pulled the fuse... .. Then the Cruise Control stopped working. I have googled references to clockspring failure and these problems... ..
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Last week my brake pedal started going to the floor when I stopped, it still stopped and felt fine on the top half of the pedal travel but then it would just slowly fade to the floor. I took it to a local shop and they said the master cylinder was leaking internally and my rear brakes were shot. I have 75,000 miles and the rear brakes were original so I told them to fix it. This is basically what I expected it to be.
They kept thinking they were getting defective master cylinders but after the two Napa parts and two Carquest parts they realized they misdiagnosed it and said I needed to take it to the dealership. I paid for the rear brake job since it needed done anyways and have an appointment for next week at the dealership. What might be causing the problem? I see no brake fluid leaks, no vacuum leaks, the booster was replaced 25,000 miles ago due to noise, no ABS light on, no CEL on, no other symptoms.
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First time ever. It has 175K on it. Ran fine yesterday. Went out this morning and it almost started, then stopped firing. It was facing down hill, so I thought possibly it wasn't getting the proper volume of oil, so I checked it and had to added 2 quarts to get it up to the proper level. This did not work.
I do have one question: Does the Water in Fuel light stay on until it starts? After turning it over again, it wanted to start at first, then stopped firing completely, but while cranking the WiF light goes off. Does this mean that there is no water in the fuel?
I m keeping it on the charger to make sure the batteries are up to snuff when I try it again. I only crank it for about 15 seconds before I let it rest. I don't have a code reader but I do have a ScanGuage2.
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I have a 2002 f250 4x4 this snow plowing truck and going to be a pain if i cant figure this out before winter sets in. number 34 fuse (10amp) blows when replaced. cruise stopped working and can not get into gear from park after starting but turn ignition switch to 1 click forward and put into nuetral then start and go on about my business? Cruise recall completed in 06, brake lights work horn works.....
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My blinkers started off blinking a few times then stopped working, now they don't work at all. The fuse says it goes to the brake lamps, hazards and turn signals. The hazards work as well as the brake lamps. I found the relay/flasher box and it appears the relay and flasher is the same for both the turn signals and the hazards. I checked for the wire/connector problem in the column and all looks good there. When I activate the turn signal lever I feel one click in the relay/flasher which leads me to believe the turn signal switch is working. I went ahead and replaced the relay with no results. Is the flasher internals the same for both the hazards and the turn signals or is there two independent sections inside for each?
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