Passat (B7) :: CEL Came On, Turned Out A Pump That Cools Down The Turbo
Jun 13, 2014
So a week ago the Check Engine light comes on. I take it in and just got a call that the Secondary Cooling Pump has failed. Apparently it's a pump that cools down the turbo and other things after the car is shut off. I only have 44,000 miles on the TDI too.
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Today I had my 2015 Passat 20,000 mile service appt. The tech informed me that he heard the turbo still running after the engine was turned off. He said recently they had this happen to another Passat, and they had to replace the engine because metal flakes into the engine. Needless to say, I am not a happy. On the bright side, they did not see any metal pieces in the oil which could happen because of the turbo problem, but my car is going back to the shop in a few days for a thorough inspection.
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The SAI pump (part number 021 959 253 B) on my 97 Passat continues to run intermittently after the car is turned off, eventually draining the battery. How do I fix?
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Our B5.5. wagon with 1.8t and automatic just went in for recall work. Embarrassingly, I don't even know what the recall was for, I only remember something about cars catching on fire.
Since we picked it up the AC only works for maybe 10 minutes at a time and then switches off. The engine temp gets really high and then cools back rather quickly. Occasionally the temp warning goes off. We scheduled an appointment to take it back in to the dealer but of course they can't take it till next week.
In the mean time, have any of you experienced something similar? Perhaps the AC goes off because of the engine temp sensor? Better to overheat the passengers than the motor? If so then the problem is the temp or the temp sensory?
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I recently bought this car in its current no start condition after sitting 3 years. Initially I jumped it off and it just cranked, no attempt to start and no noise from either fuel pump.
I checked the fuses and the fuel pump relay behind/under the radio and it clicked and was dated 2006 so it had been replaced. I assumed it was replaced when the under car fuel pump was replaced at it was a replacement.
I sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired right up and ran until used up.
I ordered both pumps and strainer and installed the under car pump earlier this week. The in tank pump and strainer looked horrible and original. There was a small issue with the return line on the in tank fuel pump sending unit when I removed it that required brazing which I got back from the shop today.
This afternoon I installed the in tank pump & strainer on the sending unit and installed all that stuff. I spliced in a quick disconnect in the wiring harness for easy separation/installation next time.
Jumped the car again [yeah needs a battery] after everything was hooked back up and no in tank pump heard with key on to prime several times and no start although I hear the under car pump quit after attempting to start and they turned off.
Is there any other fuse/relay to check? If the under car fuel pump is evidently working, wouldn't it pull fuel without the in tank pump coming on? There's about 3 gallons in the tank. I'm going to test if there's current to the in tank pump tomorrow.
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Its a 2005 awp 1.8t gti with 180K stage 2 apr. When i tune the key to the accessories on position I used to hear the fuel pump priming but now I don't and the car wont start.
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I have a 2003 camry v6 that doesn't start. There is no power to the fuel pump when the key is turned to the on position. Where is the relay for the fuel pump?
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I have a 94 Corolla with 239 K After pulling into my drive way and turning the car off I went back to start it ..Car turned over but no start ...ok backed the car out of the drive used the other car . Came back the next day car started pulled it back into the driveway ....Went to start it again later that day ..no start this happened for a couple of days ..It would start and then it wouldn’t..... Checked the fuel pump ..its not working ..The relay is good ..
There is power coming into the fuel pump but. Only one lead with power ...I power the fuel pump direct and it works ...I take it to a shop to have them look at it and they say I have no spark and that there is power going to my fuel pump ..he said there was power but he did not say if the fuel pump worked ...The gas gauge works but the fuel pump still .
So the fuel pump works if i power it direct and I have no spark ..so I could change the distributor & coil and go back to checking ground wires to the fuel pump BUT anything else going on that might be causing these issues. The car was running perfect before this happened.
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Experiencing dead battery due to a sound like a running fuel pump but the engine is off?
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Experiencing dead battery due to a sound like a running fuel pump but the engine os off?
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The other day, my father-in-law was driving my '91 Explorer and it just died on him. I assumed that the fuel pump quit becuase it wouldn't come on when the switch was turned on. I had a brand new lying around so I dropped the tank and put it in but it still won't work. I checked the inertia switch and it wasn't tripped. There is no power coming to the new pump at all. When the switch is turned on, there is a noticeable "click" inside the engine bay. Would that be the fuel pump relay making that "click"?
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My daughter's boyfriend just bought a 2000 ranger with a 2.5. We just put a flexplate in it and it wouldn't start. Just turned over. Listened for the fuel pump and no noise. After a few minutes, it worked. He drove it home last night and said that it didn't want to work first try but worked with the second try. He drove it to church, 40 miles, and it sit for around two hours and wouldn't start, no matter how many tries.
We tried changing the relays around with no luck. We went and eat lunch and back to the truck with a rubber hammer. Then it starts on the second try without using the hammer. We got under it and cleaned the connections up and put some bulb grease on them. I couldn't get the one apart right on top of the pump itself, I was afraid of breaking it. It's been doing fine since we left the church before we cleaned the connections.
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2009 Ford Focus. Six months ago got in car returning from 60 mile trip. Turned ignition key heard fuel pump hum but no juice to ignition. (Not anti-theft lockout--security light behaved normally.) Would not take jump. Ford Roadside assistance tried everything else possible. Nothing. Towed to nearest Ford dealer. On arrival, car started immediately. Took to local Ford dealer who found absolutely no problems but ran TSB 10-21-8 reprogram PCM--test OK. Had no further problems with car until a week-and-a-half ago--same thing happened. Car towed to dealer again. Started immediately at dealer! Picked up from dealer, that night same thing happened. Did not phone roadside assistance--after 45 minutes car inexplicably started. That was a week ago. No problems since then. Feeling a little panicky w/car that may fail at any time--winter coming.
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My wife has a 2001 Nissan Altima GXE with 89,000 miles. The car seems to run hot with the temp gauge reaching the "H" but never passes it, andwhen air conditioner is on it blows hot air; Then the car cools down it the air cools again, and this seems to happen all of the time.
Now, it's been happening for at Least 3 months, during this time it has had a tune up, the radiator flushed & hoses, thermostat replaced & lastly the ..... Sensor has been replaced & still the same thing happens the car temp runs hot cold up then down. We are at a loss here.
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I have an 07 Sonata with the 4 cyl engine. Problem is the A/c only cools when car is moving. Took car to mechanic and was told Radiator fan bad, so I replaced and still have same problem. Fan still will not operate. Fuses checked and everything ok there. Found the Fan control module under left front headlight to be cracked and broke from wreck a couple of years ago so I ordered that and replaced it. Still the A/C only works while driving. Come to a stop and it starts blowing warm air.
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So my CEL is on. My turbo seems like it's constantly on, there doesn't seem to be any boost, and lowered power. So I have been wondering what this could be.
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I have a 2001 ford escape V6 3.0l. Dropped a new motor in it, got everything running fine. Surprisingly the most frustrating part was when we mixed up the order of the front 3 coils but we got it!
It drove "ok" for a week and a half. Then it started to shudder at 45-55 mph. Got it home that afternoon and started to diagnose why it would shudder. Suspect its not shifting right.We started to diagnose what was wrong, made some adjustments to IAC, MAF and checked a few other things. We then went to test drive, started up fine, drove up the driveway 50' and it died. It didnt sputter and die, it just lost all power and died.
Got it back in the garage and tried to get it started again. Turned Key... nothing. Dash lit up but starter and fuel pump didnt fire. Odometer reads ------. I can jump the starter by pulling the starter relay. Same for the fuel pump. I use a jumper wire between two pins and I can get the starter to crank and the fuel pump runs when I jumper wire the relay too. So I know its not a bad starter nor a bad fuel pump.
Odd part of everything is that It drove just fine that day (other than shuddering). Then started just fine, then died. When it died we were making a sharp left turn in the driveway. We've messed with the steering wheel because it was "accidentally" put upside down when we dropped in the new engine. Could something have grounded out in the steering wheel? Air Bag? Maybe a problem in the clock spring? What would stop it from The fuel, starter and spark all at the same time? Bad PCM? Grounding issues?
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I own a 2008 Bullitt Mustang. The past six months I have noticed a backfire. It only happens after the car has been driven and cools down for a few hours. It doesn't happen after sitting all night. The car is under warranty and my dealer says it is normal. The car also runs better when it is cold.
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99 volkswagen passat 1.8T ... The turbo have like a fluttering noise when i let off, I just installed a APR chip. Is it a dieverter valve or something.
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Is it bad if there is oil coming out of the valve cover breather going into the turbo inlet? I noticed the sides of the turbo inlet on the top is lightly covered in oil.
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When i accelerate, i can hear the turbo, i don't know if its a problem though.
I drive a 18 wheeler for work, and sometimes when i'm goin down a hill and i accelerate, i get no power, just hearing the turbo loud and clear with no power.
But i barely hear it on the passat, i don't know if its good or bad.
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