Passat (B7) :: Adding HID To Aftermarket Fog Light Setup
Jun 16, 2014
I'm ordering the parts to add fog lights onto my TDI SE and want to increase the light output so that I can drive with the Audi style LED headlights in the parking light setting with the fogs on and still see where I'm going. I have a few questions regarding the setup:
1) Since it is an aftermarket setup on my SE do I need to get a CANBUS HID kit or a regular one?
2) I know there is an increase in light output when installing regular H11s in place of a H8 bulbs. Is it the same with an HID setup?
3) I'd like to find an affordable 5000k HID kit with decent quality.
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I want to add an in-line filter to my power steering set up. I'm replacing my pump, lines and steering box and I want to add a magnetic filter that will be easy to clean and change the filter without dumping fluid every time I want to replace the filter. I'm thinking of adding the Magnafine pro filter with aluminum billet housing. I know the plastic magnafine filters have been used alot and the knock off Raymundo's as well. Has anyone used this filter before and where did you mount it? I'm thinking of placing it between the PS reservoir and the air filter with fuel fittings and a fuel shutoff to close while swapping out the filter. Is there a better filter set up out there that I should consider?
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Running my fog light setup and stereo make me what to get something like this with all of the wires in the battery.
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I want to set up a sub and amp in my 2003 passat glx, but don't know exactly what to get and how it would hook up to my stock head unit (if that's possible...) would i need to replace that too? the car also has an amp that is also stock, but im pretty sure it wouldn't power a sub as well.
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I put aftermarket fog light bulbs and after a while I realized that it was melting the plastic piece that that bulb connects to. I realized it when my light went off then when i play with the socket it turns back on which is a bad connection. I called the dealer up and asked what do I need to do and he told me that I need to change the whole entire wire that connects from the harness, which will run me about a grand.
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Installed aftermarket radio with no problems in 2006 Jetta. Ironically, now the trunk open light is lit on dashboard even though the trunk is definitely shut and the horn wont beep when locking with the keyfob although the doors do lock. I researched here and found some had to push their radio (oem radio) in a little bit to make contact with "microswitch?" and then horn worked..
Im not sure if its that car thinks trunk is open when it isn't or that it thinks the radio is stolen (when it clearly isnt, just an aftermarket) one and thus won't actually arm the alarm..........however, doors are locked, and red light blinks in the door as well as the exterior visual confirmation of alarm being on.
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So I bought mkv r32 FK streetline coilovers, got them installed and when I went to adjust them myself I ran into an issue. The rear springs are upside down, making the threads on the bottom so I can't even get the flat tool in there without dropping the control arm. The tech working on it told me that is how the kit is designed.
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I recently leased a 2013 Passat SE and I desperately need to eliminate the wheel gap. I know that SoloWerks has some coilovers available or our car, but I have a friend that has a CC on KSports and I absolutely love the way they ride. Ksport does not make a coilover for our cars, but I have heard that the CC suspension is the same. Looking for CC coilover setup on these cars yet? I'll be sure to post pictures once I get my wheels and eliminate the wheel gap!
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First of all, except for my current problem, I love the combination of Brembo disks and PBR/Axxis Ultimate pads on the front and rear of my 1998 Passat 1.8t Sedan for daily driving. The feel is great, less dust than OEM or others, consistent performance in wet driving (much much better than Mintex Redbox pads). Initially had a bit of squeal on the pads after about 300 miles, but then after some heartbreaking that went away and I have had over 3000 miles of squeal-free and consistent braking..... at least until more recently.
In January (~1000 miles ago), I switched from my summer wheels to my winter wheels. Ever since then, I have had an almost consistent squeal from my left rear brake setup. It occurs at the latter half of pressuring when the car has slowed. I've tried really hard freeway braking which works (for a few more breaking events). I've tried resetting the bolts on that wheel (I always use a torque wrench). That only solves it for a couple of braking events.
I have even removed the wheel, rotated the rotor on the hub and reset the wheel. Still no luck. The brake and rotor surface look in great condition, and there is definitely no play in the hub nor is their any warping evident - no pulsation at all. Everything is torqued properly. I have been able to get rid of the squeal for about 10 breaking events by riding the parking brake while at higher speeds for more than 5 secs. Sometimes with really hard braking it goes away for a short while. Then, in either case, it comes back.
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Ok, quick info on my car, 2006 2.0t, 76k miles. I'm all caught up on recalls, and just replaced the ignition coils and spark plugs last week.
Anyway this has been happening for a few months now. Whenever I add fuel to the car (1 gal or a full tank and everything in between) It won't start immediately after. It almost acts flooded at first, just chugs a few times, I have to attempt to start it 2 or 3 times then it'll run rough for 3-4 seconds and then be all fine. No other issues till the next time I fuel up. I do have a light on throwing a code about my cooling system but I need to get someone with a vag con to read it..
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My 2006 FSi Passat is having problem starting every time I put gas in it. It starts fine at other times only hard after adding gas. What could be wrong?
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I recently replaced the factory Yokohama 195-65-15 on my 2011 Toyota Prius II with a set of Michelin Defender. MPG has dropped to 45 mpg for city driving. With the Yokohamas, I was averaging 49 mpg.
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I have an RCD-510 (touchscreen with no Nav) in my 2010 wagon. I have the AUX in the center counsel but want to add the iPhone adapter in the glove box. I'm having issues with VW by me. They cannot figure out what I need. They took it apart once and said there was no hook for the iPod cable. Also, I talked with VW headquarters and they said they wouldn't recommend trying to do it as I'd need new wire harnessing and a new "panel.". I was very confused by the panel comment. What is the part number I would need them to order?
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I just bought a 2012 Passat TDI SEL, and wanted to add a steering wheel with paddle shift. The existing information I found is not clear. I ended up ordering the wrong steering wheel and had to send it back. So I thought I would post some info FYI:
The air bag mounting is not the same for all the newer VW steering wheels. While the splines, and external look is identical the 2012 passat uses a different style of clip to hold on the air bag. This means if you get a Jetta type steering wheel your air bag will not work. Also, the steering wheel controller is completely different in the passat. The controller is not mounted in the center of the steering wheel. The best way to go is to get a steering wheel from a Passat V6 SEL. This wheel is plug and play, you only need the wheel and VCDS programming (airbag and harness are reused). The part number for the BLACK leather color WITH paddles is 561 419 091 HE 74 ...
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I have a 2011 Camry LE with American Racing aftermarket wheels. I had the car serviced last Saturday for its 70,000 mile check. When I got in the car to drive home, I felt that somehow the car was making a different sound and did not "feel" right. I did not drive the car for a few days, but when I did the left front wheel was making a grinding sound, checked underneath, for any kind of debris I might have picked up. Nothing. I took it back to the dealer. They put the front wheel on the back and the noise and vibration were gone. They said it was a defective hub on the rim. Then tonight, coming home from work, the right side was making the same sound or worse. I pulled into a tire service center, had them do the same to that side, and the sound and vibration stopped. A friend thought it might be the weights have moved and due to the tighter spacing on the front wheels they are hitting the calipers as the wheel moves.
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I was unable to find any posts talking about using the radio's line out (non-amplified) signal to send to an aftermarket amp. Any links or info would be great as I plan on performing my install soon and I really want to avoid using a line output converter (on the radio's amplified outputs).
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So I just installed my Pioneer 4400BH - Took several hours and all went well - EXCEPT - no AM reception after I installed the radio. FM seems fine.
Two possible guesses:
1. Did not push the antenna connector in far enough.
2. Gen 3's use an antenna amplifier. I did not think that Gen IIs used on so I did not connect the Power antenna lead to anything.
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Looking putting on a Putco lightbar on my 2014 Supercrew. It seems I don't have a good surface on the right side the sheet metal has some type to bulge and a rectangle hole.
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My wife wants the stereo from her last car put into our 2006 Sonata GLS. what is needed for the steering wheel volume controls to work?
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I added fog lights, and I removed the fuse box and body computer to do so. I disconnected the 12V battery for most of the work, but later I did pull a couple of under-the -dash connectors with the battery connected.
Now I get the screen saying "check hybrid system", "don't drive". I've tried the turn-the-key-on-three-times technique, and I disconnected the battery for 30 mins. Still the message persists.
Using my Torque app, I can clear the ECU fault and the message disappears. However, when I start the car the next time, the message is back. Everything else seems ok.
I checked all the cabin fuses and most of the engine compartment fuses. I took everything apart again, and double checked the fit of all the connectors under the dash. It seems that I have thrown a code which keeps popping up every time I turn the ignition on.
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I put in an aftermarket stereo. It has been a while since I have done that and somewhere along the wiring process I made a mistake and blew a fuse. I knew the lights around my speedometer weren't working but what I didn't realize is that my running brake lights weren't working, it took me about two days to realize this.
I fixed my wiring mistake and started looking for the blown fuse. I found one (I believe #19 inside the vehicle) and replaced it. This fixed my running brake lights and half of my instrument cluster. The lighting on the right side of my speedometer seems to work but to the left of it seems to be no light.
Also, I have an automatic car starter and before I jacked things up when I use to start it and the blinker lights use to come on and let me know that my car was running. I have checked the majority of the fuses(I believe all of them) and it doesn't seem that I have anymore blown fuses.
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