So Saturday, get in the Passat to go for a drive. No AC! 6300 miles on the car and the AC goes out. I get the fan blowing air, but nothing cold (yes the AC button was pressed). I haven't had a chance to see if maybe I blew a fuse yet. Otherwise making a service appointment with the dealer.
View 24 RepliesDriving home today and all of a sudden, hot air... I stopped and turned the car off then back on, hoping to reset something. Still nothing.
It almost sounds as if I can't even hear the compressor kick on when I turn on the AC button.
Looks like I'm heading to the dealership tomorrow to see if this is still under warranty. Really upset being that this car is only two years old.
The uneven wear occurred again, this time only giving me 22,644 miles on the rear brakes. So, I am on my third set of rear brakes at 78,000 miles.
This time the dealer contacted the district rep since this was a repeat occurrence. It turns out a week after my first rear brake job, Toyota issued T-SB-0248-12, for this very problem, on the 2010 - 2012 Prius and on the 2012 Prius PHV. There is a new brake pad that is supposed to address this problem. The old part number that was put on my car during the first brake job was 04466-76011 and the new part number is 04466-47080. The receipt also shows Brake Shim Grease part number 08887-80409, which is noted in the TSB.
Toyota did the right thing in that they covered the cost of the brake job I just had done. I just opened a case asking to be reimbursed for the first brake job since this turned out to be a problem that was addressed with a new part.
I suggest anyone with a 2010-2012 Prius or 2012 Prius PHV that needs rear brakes, make sure you insist on getting this updated pad and point out this TSB. My service adviser said they were going to replace all of their pads with the old part number with the updated pad, so other customers going forward receive this new pad, though he also said they just don't do a lot of Prius brake jobs.
My speedometer decided to quit working this morning. The odometer is lit up but its not adding miles as I drive.
View 11 RepliesTrying to figure out whether to fix or scrap our 2005 Prius with 193,000 miles and a mysterious 12V battery problem. What would you do in my situation?
We've had a recurring problem with the 12V accessory battery: I have replaced it myself three times. The last failure was the most mysterious, because after replacing the 12V battery for the third time, I conducted nearly daily voltage tests using the Prius' "secret" vehicle signal check. Voltage coming off of the 12V was normal, if not high the entire time in all of the Prius's various starting and ready modes. I wired up a solar panel to trickle-charge the 12V battery when we weren't around, and we plugged the 12V in at night to a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up.
Nonetheless the day came a few months after the latest replacement when we had our usual 12V failure symptoms: the time on the clock started resetting, the car didn't turn on on the first press, the Prius computer rebooted, and eventually the car wouldn't start without a jump start. This has been super-frustrating, and googling around, I haven't been impressed by people's reported experiences trying to have the dealer try to resolve such problems. My worry is that a dealer repair person will change the accessory 12V battery without fixing the underlying problem. I would suspect a parasitic draw somewhere, but voltage tests when the car was overnighted without any kind of charging did not suggest a serious voltage draw on the 12V battery.
Other details about the car: our keyless entry hasn't worked for several years (dead batteries in the key fob?) and we open the car manually using the key each time. We stick the fob in the slot each time we want to start it. MPG is comparatively low vs. other Priuses, perhaps 44-45 MPG, and lower when the 12V battery starts to die (37-40). I have had the car serviced (oil, etc.) like clockwork every three months; recently, I've noticed the engine is starting to burn oil a bit (level is reported low on each change).
Most of the driving has been done in the flats and the heat of California's Central Valley, and we've put something like 120,000 miles on it just in the last five years. Besides the fact that the 12V battery keeps dying, the car has been very reliable.
We just inherited a free Prius with just 60,000 miles on it, and I have a 1993 Camry with 150k miles on the chassis and maybe 60k miles on the replacement engine I had dropped into it a few years ago. The Camry just passed California's smog test and seems to be running well. We don't want or need three cars.
Our choice is to try to fix the Prius with 193k miles on it and donate the Camry (which gets about 20 miles to the gallon, the horror...), or keep the Camry and donate the Prius. My instinct is to not drop thousands of dollars into the high-mileage Prius, especially if these issues might be pointing to a dying main battery.
My odometer has quit working but sometimes will run a few miles. The truck has about 100,000 miles on it and the speedometer works fine.
View 14 RepliesSo my car is almost one year old, and I just hit 32k miles. (I drive 4 hours home quite often) Anywho, I just got a CEL today, and I am due for an inspection next month. The dealership offers free inspections in VA for life, but I find it pretty coincidental that I got the light now.
View 3 RepliesI filled up on sunday, drove about 100 miles and on tuesday my check fuel cap warning went off. I pulled over took the cap off, put it back on and started the car back up, light still on. I drove about 25 miles turned the car off and back on about 5 minutes later, light was off. When i started up this morning the light was still off but about a mile of two from my house my CEL went on. I would imagine they have to be related, should i just take it in?
View 4 RepliesSo i had been up in the woods for better half of the day. I had been in 4wd a few times, didn't thrash on anything and while driving home about 30mins into the return trip on the pavement i noticed my speedo only showing 10mph. I know i was easily going 50mph. I changed my SGII gauge to show MPH and sure enough i was going way faster. Eventually the needled dropped to zero and stayed that way for at least 5 miles. Then I came to a stop to and made a right turn giving it a bit of throttle and the speedo began to work correctly and did so for the remaining 5 miles. the Odom also during that time wasn't adding mileage. could this be from the rear sensor ontop of the rear diff?
View 6 RepliesHappy owner of a TDI - SEL for just over a year. One week shy of my 40K service, the alternator failed. All repairs covered with my extended warranty. Tech said he hadn't seen another alternator go bad and certainly hadn't seen a 1 year old TDI with 40K miles! Any alternator issues? otherwise been quite happy with the car.
View 2 RepliesI purchased an 06 cpo 2.0t m/t in March and I checked oil level at end of June and stick was almost dry. Immediately poured in some oil to make it to dealership. They performed oil change and said they didn't find any leak. Today when cleaning under hood, I thought about checking dip stick but figured it would be fine. My oil was changed about 3 months ago and I've driven just under 2,000 miles since the change. The oil level is at the min marker. Someone told me that the turbo's burn a quart of oil about every 1,000 miles but this seems a little ridiculous.
View 10 RepliesI went on vacation, my 2.0T B6 developed a coolant leak at 35k miles. It's still in the shop but the problem has been identified as a leaky o-ring located toward the rear of the engine at the block. The SA told me that they've see quite a few of these in both Audi and VW products using the 2.0T.
I'm also getting a reflash for one of the recalls. I think it's the 03 recall but I'm not sure until I get the paperwork. So off I go in my loaner PT cruiser until I get the B6 back today....
Just bought a 2000 Passat GLX 4Motion wagon. It originally came from the US, thus, has the mph speedometer and the odometer is in miles. I
So, VAGCOM can adjust the odometer from miles to kilometers? Also, any info on where I might be able to get a instrument cluster in kph?
Today I started up my 2013 Passat SEL up and it started shaking and idling very strange. A few seconds later I had a flashing CEL so I decided to turn her off. I waited about 5 minutes (after cursing for about 4.5 if those minutes) and tried again. This time the car started and everything was fine, no CEL, no other issues. I drove for about 10 miles, shut off the engine and re-started about 5 more times with no issues.
I just had the car in for the 50K mile service at VW and everything checked out ok. I copied the VAGCON report below and I also sent it to my service manager to get his opinion. What I should do?
Saturday,02,January,2016,17:24:51:53498
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows Vista x86
VCDS Version: 15.7.3.0
Data version: 20151216
[Code] ....
Is that unusual?
View 9 RepliesMy lining is starting to come off, and it looks like it was cut short when assembled...
View 6 Replies I purchased a 2014 Passat 1.8tsi - had 4 miles when I test drove it.
Now a week later and 100 miles later I noticed a trail of red fluid when I had parked in car port. Leaking transmission fluid. I can see fluid drops on all the bolts underneath the car. I feel like dealer should give me a different car - 100 miles and a problem like this - feel like I have a lemon. Not sure if I should even drive it to them or they should tow it? Why its leaking? -
My front low beam headlight is out and I only have 2,500 miles on the car. Was it replaced under warranty? If not how can I find out how to replace it myself?
View 8 RepliesHow do i switch the speedometer to miles from kilometers. I need to travel to USA by road from Canada.. I have a Passat 1999 GLS.. The speedometer is set to kilometers.
View 2 RepliesI was told that I must replace the timing belt every sixty thousand miles. Is this true?
View 24 RepliesI have a whistle noise which I can hear since a month, it comes only when : - I drove more than 20 miles ( related to warming up of a piece of the car ? ) - I drive at least at 30 mph - Same noise If I switch to "neutral" position - Same noise if I'm braking or not, just related to the current speed - The noise is coming from the outside, but the high pitch makes it hard to locate...
View 4 Replies