Passat (B7) :: A Negative Camber On The Rear Is Off
Jan 5, 2012
Notice the camber on the rear, it is kinda off.I already notice the first day I got my car. never paid attention. I did my spring install put the new wheels, went to a shop to align it and still i can see that there is a negative camber on the rear. Vw tech are saying it is normal for the front wheel drive like our car.
Prolly the cambers are not adjustable. Is the rear toe adjustable? after alignment my passenger side rear is straight but the driver side rear is off. i did check on the adjustable parts on the rear but i cannot see one. am I missing something.
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I have a 2004 Camry and I got an alignment at Firestone they rep told me that my rear left camber alignment is off, my right camber alignment is is within range.
Actual :-2.3 Range -2.0.-0.5
He recommended I change my struts as Toyota does not specify rear camber adjustment. Is this normal on car with 160k on it ?. I have seen several chamber kits out there should I just get one and go somewhere else for them to realign it with the kit ?
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My rear camber is different from driver side and pass. the ride height is the same, looking from where the fender tucks the tire. but if you look from the rear it cambers in more. I don't know the problem.
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So I finally bagged my GTI...When I am aired out it looks like one side has more camber than the other side (One side rests on the tire and the other side is tucked more).
I took it to get aligned and apparently the rear have both been set 2.7 degrees camber.
I'm running Dorbritrz D-cups and SS-5s in the rear.
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2010 Prius, replacing my tires for the first time at 43K miles, got alignment and shop told me that my rear camber and toe is out and needs shims, measurements are amber left -1.2, right -2.2 toe left 0.40, right 0.15.
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I am running fk coils, and for some reason the front driver side camber is -1.2 and it won't adjust at all. The passenger side is -2.2 and won't adjust. I was told that the the R's oem camber can be adjusted up to -1.7.
I have no camber kits on the car. I told my Mechanic why the camber doesn't adjust. He told me that he over looked everything and that he didnt see anything wrong.
I had my front shocks replaced because they were blown. It bothers me how one side has -1 more camber than the other side. I am thinking about buying camber kit because of this problem I'm having.
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I'm running on BC coils and was wondering how low do you have to go until you get some natural camber?
I lowered my car by 3" already but no natural camber has occured yet.
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My car is bagged with the airlift front struts. wondering if there is any way to get more camber in the front without the performance struts.
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I called 2 VW dealerships but they couldn't give me an answer on how much adjustment for camber is possible. I did the search but only found rear camber adjustment info.
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Wheel alignment for ES350? I have negative camber on all four wheels (picture below has a view what it is).
Also I just made an appointment with mechanic, and he said on the phone that for car like that you can not do alignment with negative camber. He said that likely I have bad bearing or shock, or something else. I hope he is wrong..
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I am getting some coilovers soon, but noticed a lot of people having camber issues when slammed, I am not looking to be on the ground, just wanna get rid of wheel gap. My goal is to have 1 finger between the tire and wheelwell. Is this doable without issues?
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I had a bud of mine make shims and gave me some negative camber in the back, and in the front, I maximized the camber bolt on my bc coils, this is per alignment stage. when I drive, the car feels a lil wobbly, is this normal? and will alignment fix the problem, or is this just part of the lowered/cambered life?
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We have a 2009 BMW X5 with an AGM battery that leaked and damaged the negative cable. We don't know what caused this, and we're concerned it might be due to a problem with the battery sensor, voltage regulator, alternator, or electronic system/software. The dealer says there's no way to tell, and that "batteries just leak." However, we pointed out that BMW's online marketing info states that "The acid cannot leak and damage the battery housing." Based on this express warranty, the BMW dealer refunded us the cost of the new battery, cable, and labor. However, since we've read that battery failure is rarely due to the battery itself, but rather a symptom of some other problem, we're concerned.
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I'm working on a 95 Explorer, and I need to know where the end of the negative battery cable should be bolted to. Right now, it's hooked to a bolt on the back of the starter. That just doesn't sound right......
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My speedometer has shot craps. This started a couple months back by occasionally dropping to zero then raising back to indicated speed. I know this car doesn't have a cable and is all electronic. The problem is that I just moved to Ohio from Arizona and can't find my little (kinda worthless Haynes manual so that I can maybe trace the wiring out and find what drives/affects the speedometer.
I don't think the speedometer it's self has gone bad because when I turn the key off it drops to negative zero which tells me that mechanism is at least still breathing.
What ancilary items I can check/replace to maybe get this thing working again? Where is the ESS? This is an 88 Park avenue
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On my 10 LS460 swb am contemplating cleaning the MAF sensor.
As the battery is in its own corner, I'm not too sure how to disconnect the negative terminal so I want to know, if I clean the MAF sensor and leave the battery connected, will that have adverse affect?
I think pulling and re plugging a specific fuse will also work?
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While reinstalling my battery after working on my 94 sentra my negative battery cable melted my negative terminal.
I installed the positive first then went to do the negative and huge spark/smoke and I see my terminal melted on the one side.
What might be causing this?
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Dealer is telling me I need a fuel pressure sensor. I was hoping it would be the PEM which is still under the extended warranty. Is the sensor and the PEM one and the same? By the way, 99% of the time the car runs normally. Assuming the sensor and the PEM are different, could the sensor flat out totally fail at any time?
Dealer is suggesting to replace the negative battery cable!! I remember replacing old cables in my old cars, admittedly many decades ago for a few bucks. Even considering that it is a different world now, can a cable cost that much. Dealer is asking Volvo to consider the sensor as warranty or to participate because I had complained about hesitation more than once starting about five years ago, but they found nothing at that time. My complaint is still in their computer system.
2005 Volvo s40 t5
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This is my other question. I have an APR program and turbo-back billy boat exhaust. I installed a boost gauge that gets the reading off of the intake manifold (fuel regulator.)
So if I'm just tooling along, short-shifting and only using 1/10 throttle, and my boost gauge never reads above -5, let alone 0 or positive, why does my valve release pressure?
Why would there be pressure to release if there is a vacuum, according to the gauge? I wouldn't think that a recirculating or blow-off valve would work in reverse.
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I'm trying to think of what gets affected on a vehicle which is driven about 20 to 25k miles a year. I'm looking to purchase one with the following description.
2006, 4.7L V8 is bulletproof, but with 165k miles already, what should I look for when inspecting the vehicle?
It's been dealer serviced. Is there anything other than normal wear and tear items that might be negatively impacted by doing so many road trips (lets say 300 miles at a time) That would be around 550 trips of 300 miles in 6 years.
The reason I ask this rather than just looking at the truck is because I'm in Dallas and the truck is at a Houston dealer... So before I drive out there, I wanted to "assume" what affect this kind of usage would do to an engine.
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I replaced the 12v battery this morning with an Optima, as some here suggest. No problem, but the strap on the Optima is touching the negative connector wire. I tried squishing the battery strap under the metal hold-down bar but that doesn't work.
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