Passat (B7) :: 2104 TDI - Driver Door Opening While Driving On Highway At 100 KPH
Feb 19, 2015
Lots of SAFETY concerns . At 927am Feb 15, 2105 while driving at 100 kph on the highway (25 min) my drivers door opened to the safety stop by itself!
While driving and turning the corner my radio occasionally changes radio stations and sometimes goes to MAX volume! You cannot turn it down or off!
Drives door whistles at 70kph took it to dealer 6 times no solution!
My 6 month old Passat TDI Highline is possessed!
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I have a MK4 Jetta, I've owned it for about 1 year. I've never had a problem with the key, but in the last few days, it only opens the driver door? No matter how many times I hit the button it won't unlock the rest of the doors?
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I would like all the doors to unlock when i open the drivers door. The manual is a little confusing on how to do this or if you can.
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Each time I open the driver door, when the car is off, I hear a buzzing coming from the front (left?) of the car. It sounds like something electrical. What is it and is it normal? Assuming it's normal, I like it because it's kind of like the Prius saying hi and it reminds me I now have a unique (and fun) car. But what is it? Am I wasting battery with something I've left configured?
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I just bought a used 2015 Camry LE 3 days ago. I just went to open the driver's door & heard popping as it opened. It's coming from the hinge area. I see posts about older Sienna vans having problems with broken welds causing the sound. Is it possible that a 2015 Camry could have the same problem? It's still under warranty. Are there any TSB's about it? Anything official from Toyota that I can take back to the dealer so they don't try to lube it instead of repair it & try to wait out my warranty?
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I have experienced a problem with the driver's side door locking and not opening. It just happened to me with my 2008 LS460 so I can't get in or out of the car from the driver's side.
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My 1995 corolla door would not close. I looked and discovered that the 3 screws holding the door lock mechanism in place were gone. I went to the hardware and bought 3 new screws and installed them. The door shut and now it will not open at all. It was opening intermittently, so I bought shorter screws and put them in and now it will not open at all. The screws are flush with the door. The door is not stuck, you can feel that it is locked, so forcing it will not work. Climbing in and out over the passenger seat is quickly losing it's appeal. Monday I am taking the door apart from the inside.
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So, I go out to my car, unlock, open the driver side door... zzzzzzzz (not a hisssssssss) comes from under the car towards the rear suspension. I do not have the air suspension, so I'm guessing that the car thinks I do and probably has modules for it. One of those modules happens to be thinking I do and is trying to lower the car for my entry?
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I know there's a normal humming/buzzing that occurs when you open the driver's door after the car has been sitting for a while (fuel pump/starter/something -- apparently allows the car to start easily?). I realize that's normal. But I've noticed that over the last few days I'm now getting what sounds like a loud clack (almost as if the seat belt buckle is hitting some other piece of metal). It only happens in conjunction with the humming/buzzing after the car has been sitting for a while. What it might be? I'm trying to avoid going in for service until my 5k or until something major happens. I have a lot of these will come back, "No problem found", so I'd rather not waste my time.
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About 3 weeks ago our Gen III (Prius III with Nav and Solar) began generating a single standard duration (maybe 1 second, similar duration to reverse beep) beep each time the driver's door is opened. It only occurs with the driver's door and happens whether the car is locked, unlocked, started or not. We had our reverse beep-beep converted to a single beep about 2 months ago and now this single beep is annoying each time we open the driver's door whether we are inside our outside of the car. We could not find anything in the user manual that described why this beep would continue occurring.
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A few years ago, my 2010 Elantra started sporadic chiming when I opened the driver's door. Dealers explanation was that there is a microswitch (sensor) that detects if a key is in the ignition switch. Seems that the switch/sensor thought the key was still in the ignition and when the door was opened, it chimed to remind you that the key hadn't been removed.
Well, the dealer replaced the microswitch, and after a month or so, the problem returned. They lubed the switch, and once again the problem eventually returned. This happened several times. I eventually learned to tap the steering column, which vibrates the switch/sensor and the chiming stops. The dealer said that if a fix were to become known, they would fix it for me, for free.
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I have a minor squeak opening and closing the driver's door. Any recommendation for the best lubricant to use on the hinges? Is WD-40 acceptable or are there better alternatives?
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I have a 2012 Camry LE and notice that when i open the rear driver side door, there is a clunking noise when it opens into one position. I tried greasing the hinge and it didn't make much of a difference.
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My driver and my driver side passenger (slightly) door squeaks when I open and close it. I know it has to do with the door checks. The black plastic thing that holds the door open 1/4 or 1/2 way. I don't want to try something that might not fix it like greasing it. I don't want a glob of grease on there and it still squeaks. Is there a way to adjust it?
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My wife and I recently purchased an 02 Camry. Last night the drivers door stopped opening from the inside and outside. Then we noticed the window was getting stuck rolling down and when I pushed down a bit the door popped open! Happened a couple times before the window got stuck.
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When opening driver side door, engine dies.Cannot access the convenience control module with VAGcom.
Swapped in another CCM, same behavior. Have not tried yet to access the swap module with VAGcom.
What might cause the 'engine kill' when door is opened? How to further troubleshoot?
Quick fix: disable 'door contact' (not sure, but assume it is integrated into the door lock/actuator (as a microswitch likely?).
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My drivers side door just started clicking when opening or shutting ...
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I put my car in reverse and my door locks has some sort of spasm. The rear locks started twitching for several seconds then stopped.
Now both key fobs will only unlock the drive's side door. All locks work fine with the key.
Untimely demise on my remote unlock feature? Other threads have dealt with single door issues. We had that problem with the rear door on our 99 but this not the same issue since only one door will unlock remotely.
I know that my car battery needs to be replaced but it should not cause a problem. Also all fuses were checked and are ok. What to check.
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2006 Solara. When opening driver side door it makes a very loud clicking noise at the 1st and also at the 2nd stop. Same thing when closing the door.
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We have been tolerating a bad squeak in the driver's side front door upon opening, closing (any type of swinging of the door). Dealer tried lubricating it with no success. They told us that they would order a new hinge and "hope" that resolves it. I am a little worried about this. Would you trust your dealer to remove and re-install the door or just live with the squeak?
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So, last night I buy this 1998 Passat; good deal high miles but in great shape. I look around the car today and noticed that the carpet in the trunk on the side of the fuel door is disheveled. I don't think much of it until I try to access the fuel cap, then I reach in my hand and manually pop the door - so for those that want a manual way to release the door, there you have it, don't resort to screw drivers and such.
Now, I take the release mechanism off and test it with a 12volt battery - works fine. OK, so test the power going to the trunk - 4.4 volts, hmmm? I then check the switch itself and the leads going in are 4.6 volts, again.
So the questions are these:
1. What voltage should I be getting to the switch?
2. Is there a fuse associated with this switch?
3. Where does the voltage originate from?
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