Worked fine yesterday, today no dice. I was hoping it might be a fuse or something cheap and easy as opposed to a compressor or sensor failure (55k miles, so out of warranty). VW, of course, stopped including fuse box diagrams, but I found a couple on this site and in other places, and no joy after checking relevant fuses and pushing on the rest to be sure they're firmly seated ..
View 14 RepliesI have a 13 elantra gt with 4k miles and I absolutely love it. The only problem I have with it is that the a/c just doesn't seem to keep the car cool enough. I have to keep it on max ac full blast "witch is incredibly loud by the way" just to keep rear passengers comfortable on the highway. I used a temperature probe and got 47 degrees f in the duct. Is that normal? It seems high to me...
View 13 RepliesI just got this 2006 F250 with a 6.0 diesel in January. Didn't check the AC until now. It doesn't work, not even cool air. I borrowed a gauge set. The static pressure in the system was 95 psi (77 F outside). I started the truck 1500 RPM with AC Max blower high, windows down. When the AC pump would run it would draw the low side down below about 20 and the high side pressure would go to about 150 before the pump would kick out (about 1 second pumping). It looked like it was low on refrigerant. Easy fix, WRONG.
I started adding a can of 134a (12 oz)with dye, to the system. The can got cold, and was going into the system, but the low side readings weren't going anywhere, the pump was still cutting off on low pressure. Still about a 1 second pump run time. The high side pressure were going up fast. After the can was in the high side pressure was going up to about 450. The low side would creep upto about 65 and when the pump would kick in it would draw it way down to maybe 30. Still very short pump times. I don't think the air ever came out of the vents even cool.
I got cold feet about the high side pressure and lowered the charge on the system. The new static pressure is 115.
Did I overcharge the system too fast? Does the system have to run for a while after a charge for the high side pressure to drop? It seems to me like there is a blockage causing the low side to be too low and the high side to be too high. Will air in the system cause this? What next?
A friend has a 2005 Honda Civic with approximately 120,000 miles that she just bought the end of 2013. The car was kept immaculate by the previous owner. This week as she was driving, she said the temperature needle suddenly went all the way to H. Earlier in the day, she had noticed the A/C was not consistently cool but didn't think much of it as there were no other problems with the car. When the temp needle suddenly went to H, she shut off the a/c and before she could pull over the temp needle went back to normal. She checked the coolant level which was very low and she took it to the dealer who ran multiple tests including checking the thermostat, cylinder compression tests, etc but they could find nothing wrong. I keep telling her there is a reason it did that and that coolant doesn't just disappear and that I think she should take it back.
View 6 RepliesMy AC started blowing cool air last summer.My wife who drives it daily noticed that it wasn't as cold as when we first got it.I was making an appointment to take it in when the clock spring broke and we got all sorts of lights on the dashboard.It was still under warranty when I took it in and they gave us a loaner car.They told us that they changed the compressor,clock spring(which he said was a common thing to go on cars) there was also a trouble code on the turbo. That took them the longest to fix
.They ended up replacing a sensor and then found out it was bad wiring. Fast forward almost a year later and the weather is starting to get warm again here in NYC. I tested the AC and it is blowing cool air again. This time I put a thermometer in the center vent and it is blowing about 54.8 F after 5 minutes. The outside temp was 66.F. I called the dealer and took it in after work today and the service adviser said that 54.8 F was within range.I insisted that they keep it over night and have a tech check it and also do an oil change in the morning since it has 30K miles on it.I was time for one again. My question is... what the temperature range is for the AC in my Tiguan?
I made him give my wife another loaner (2016 Jetta) and when she got home I put the same thermometer in the center vent and it was blowing 40.2 F after 5 minutes.Much colder than my Tiguan. I want to make sure that they don't recharge the AC and we make it through the summer and we will be back to the dealer next year.This time the warranty will have expired.I don't have an extended warranty.I just got a bad vibe from this guy at the dealer.
So I changed my oil today and added about 9.8 - 9.9 quarts. There was just a little left in the second 5 quart jug. I carefully added some oil while checking the dip stick frequently. I made sure the level was just at (maybe a hair above) the top dot on the dip stick. After that, I went out for a spirited drive.
Now 4 hours later, when the car is relatively cool, I checked the level again. However, the level is now significantly higher than before. It's definitely past the top dot, not by a lot, but definitely more than before.
Second time I've used it was today, already 93F today and pushing 100F tomorrow, summer started in Feb here. AC just feels like it's mildly cool, not cold and I've tried it using in cabin air and outside air on low and full blast and it doesn't get cold is this normal for Lexus? my Subaru got ice cold so this is kinda odd for Lexus I would think.
View 4 RepliesMy 2013 ford f150 4x4 ac does not blow very cool air . We have charged the compressor and that did not work. Then we Vac it down and replaced the expansion valve and recharged the compressor, still the same. Also on the max high setting the blower is really loud?
View 6 RepliesFord Tech. told me today the reason my a/c wouldn't cool is I have a bad evap. temp. sensor and this part was "non-replaceable" the fix is a HVAC Box from ford, (price includes a h/core replacement since dash would already be out) it has 85000 miles 2010 f150 Screw 4x4.is this my only option for repairing my a/c.
View 3 RepliesMy 2014 Sonata GLS has definite air conditioner problems. It takes some time for it to get cold. I had no problems with my 2011 Elantra - I never had to turn the air conditioner to its highest level. In addition, it cooled almost immediately. However, I have to turn on the Sonata's air conditioner to full capacity and wait several minutes before I get some cool air. When it's 95 degrees out here in Florida, a few minutes can seem like a long time.
Haven't had my car checked yet.
We have a 2002 Passat and I just noticed over the last few days that when the AC is on, the air is definitely not cooling. There is nothing visibly wrong in terms of leaks or anything and it used to work incredibly well, but now it feels just like having the vent open.
View 2 Replies2010 fx4 duel temp controls...
My driver side works great (heat and AC). My passenger side does not cool or heat properly. Not sure about the back.
From what I have read this is most likely the upper door actuator...Which is what I was hoping because the lower one is such a nightmare. Am I on the right track here?
Problems started a few months back. Turned the a/c on and it blew hot air. I didn't think much of it because it started to turn cold after a few minutes. That didn't occur again for a few weeks so I figured it was a fluke.
Over the last few days it now takes 6 -7 minutes for the air to finally cool down. It is way too hot these days to not have instant relief in my car. Luckily it is time for service so I will let the shop worry about what is wrong with it.
All of a sudden the AC in my 2007 Passat 2.0 stopped blowing cold air. It worked great yesterday. I'm worried that it might be the compressor because I don't have the 1000+ dollars to have it replaced. I bought the car in 2009 but I'm almost sure it is out of warranty because I've put more than 50,000 miles on it. I read some posts that the AC might need to simply be recharged ?????
View 8 RepliesNew owner for the passat 2003 gls passat 1.8T. I turned on the AC and its not blowing cool air. Looking for DIY to fix my AC problem.
View 3 RepliesI picked up a used 99 Passat with 79000 miles. I just changed the oil and found the pan pretty well sludged up - typical from what I read on the forum. I noticed the coolant looked pretty diluted - so I drained and filled with 50/50 mix. After starting I felt for the upper and lower hoses heating up and the lower one never did. I guess I should have tested this out before draining and refilling - also typical. Question is - is this a thermostat issue? My Haynes manual says if the top hose becomes hot the thermostat is operational. Heater has plenty of heat, temp gauge stays pegged at 190 degrees top dead center of the gauge.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 passat 1.8t with 197k miles. When I drive if you listen really closely the engine makes a pretty cool sound like a turbo winding. It's a really really low whooooooo on the first and second gear. You cant hear it unless you have the windows down and there's like no other cars. Is this normal? My friend said the turbo might be going bad ?
View 5 RepliesI just ran into the weirdest thing i have experienced with Lexus cars. I was driving today to work and listening to music not blasting it, and all of the sudden the volume disappears. I try to turn, but the volume numbers don't even appear, so i turn the radio, CD on off nothing. I even tried to push the voice command but not only did it not have volume but the prompt message didn't even come on. I tried to set a destination to see maybe the navi might talk but no luck. checked to see if menu vol was on and it was at the highest. Then when i got into my car tonight after work it started working, but in a few min again volume disappeared.
View 14 RepliesNo symptoms, or noises. Suddenly my '14 SFS 2.0T AWD stopped producing AC and heat. The fan works, though.
I'm suspecting a fuse has blown.
Fully stock 2011 IS F. This past Friday I had the low engine oil level light come on. I immediately took it to the Lexus dealer Saturday morning. The tech said the engine was 2 quarts low on oil. The dealership offered to top it off for free since my interval had at least another 1500 miles left before a complete oil change. I opted to conduct a complete oil change instead and gladly paid for their services.
I even entered the service bay since the regular tech who works on my F wasn't there that day. I ensured the tech topped off the oil correctly and asked if there was any harm to the engine? He said absolutely not, the sensor did its job! No harm no foul...everything was good until last night...
I daily drive my F and you can say I drive my F hard. It was between 10pm and 11pm the ambient temperature couldn't have been past the lower to mid 80's. When all of a sudden my oil temperature started rising! And rising fast! I immediately let off the gas and began to worry. This has never happened! Not even on my previous F, which was driven in the same manner, and with straight pipes. I've had this F since January but I'm getting the feeling something is wrong and it's killing the joy of driving it freely.
I was in F mode and paddle shifting like I always do every night. I also could have sworn I lost power. I did a search and only ran into the F that was taken to the track, but the thread didn't really answer anything for me. Other than freak me out even more as one owner mentioned his F never goes past 3 bars! After a track session! I'm sure it was for 2008-2010 F as the gauges are different. I drove it conservatively this morning and opened her up a little and everything was fine. I wasn't in F Mode just sport and auto.
So mine is a 2014 is250awd and I currently have 16,000 miles. Sometimes when I put my car into park the gear lever doesn't always go all the way into park. It kinda gets stuck, then the car under its own weight will pull the lever into park. I will see an obvious movement of the gear lever going even further into the park position.
Sometimes I try to be a little bit more forceful with it, to push the gear lever into park. So it doesn't get pulled or clicked into place by the weight of the car gently settling forward or backwards depending where I parked.
But The other day I pulled into and parked on a bit of an incline, put the car in park and got out. When I got back into the car from the store, when I sat in the car it rolled back what seemed like and inch and a loud click and I see the gear lever get forced into park as the car rolled back. So it seemed to me I left the car, and it wasn't quite in park or drive. Which seems a bit unsettling to me.