Passat (B7) :: 2014 - Engine Noise / Vibration In Clutch Pedal When Depressed?
Jun 30, 2015
I have a 2014 Passat TDI with a 6 speed manual. When the clutch pedal is depressed between upshifts, there is an audible groaning sound and a vibration in the clutch pedal. The dealer replaced the throwout bearing but the problem persisted. They then replaced the entire transmission and the noise/vibration is still there. The noise follows engine RPM. Is this normal for the TDI powertrain? The dealer had never encountered the noise but they did find another car on the lot with the same noise.
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2013 tdi 6mt. I am noticing that my clutch clicks when the pedal is depressed. it does not happen when I first start driving in the morning, but it seems that once the cabin is warmed slightly it starts then clicks each and every time. It is annoying and it appears to be related to the different temps outside vs the cabin. I did not notice it during summer or early fall but it is cold here now.
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We purchased the vehicle (2013 GX460) in September 2012, and had the car for 6 weeks before my wife was hit by an oncoming car who missed a stop sign. 8 weeks later and 23k of repairable damage to driver fender, front bumper, grille, hood, frame, and all components within those major areas, we received our vehicle.
The vehicle is wonderful and a joy to drive. When the brake pedal is depressed at low speeds (i.e., maneuvering in parking lot, entering driveway), there is a slight vibration to the pedal (similar to the vibration from a cell phone) and a noise that suggests an electric motor is working. The vibration is not like ABS; ABS is a profound vibration. The vibration we experience is very slight. The vibration is not apparent at highway speeds.
I do not recall either the vibration or the noise prior to the accident, and I suspect that this is a result from the accident or from the repairs. I have already brought the GX back to the dealer for this problem and they were quick to dismiss it, but I am really concerned that this is a real problem, and I want the dealer to re-assess.
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But when I take my foot off the brake pedal , its just seems rather noisy (clunky). As if VW forgot to put some rubber or something to prevent this clunky sound. (it just sounds cheap)
My jetta and tiguan never seemed like this. Have to stick my head under there and see whats up
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When I am stopped (at a red light, for example), the car wants to lurch when in 1st gear, even though I have the clutch pedal fully depressed. I know this is not a problem with the clutch master cylinder leaking by where you lose pressure on the pedal. Car has 245,000 miles and still has original clutch. Car/transmission work fine so long as I put it in neutral when I stop. Doesn't seem to do this w/reverse. Clutch also passes the "stall test" where you let it out in 4th gear with the hand brake on. What's going on here?
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I've been driving manual transmission vehicles - from my '72 Pinto to big trucks - for 40 years. This happened recently in a VW Golf I had rented: While driving down a mountain in a tunnel in Norway, with the clutch depressed, there was a loud POP noise.The clutch became engaged, and the clutch pedal did nothing. I'll spare you the details of the harrowing aftermath, the language barrier issues in the sticks of Norway and such. In the end, the rental company is charging us a couple thousand bucks for breaking their car. I maintain it was not Driver Error. My local VM service manager indicated that the Slave Cylinder on the Golf has been a problem for years, and is probably what went bad, but - as a rep of VW - is not willing (allowed) to put that in writing. The garage that fixed the Golf indicated it was Driver Error. I'm guessing everything tranny-wise got beat up when the Slave gave out, making it look like I'm a bonafide Clutch Masher.
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I have a 2003 Passat GLX 4Motion that was fine Monday...Having heavy rain Monday and with brake pedal depressed unable to get out of park..I have brake lights but when I got into car and started it I have airbag light and esp light on as well as check engine light...Is there a way to by pass the shift lock solenoid so I can move car into my garage...
I cleaned connections as was suggested and had a tough time as Bentley Manual states to remove console one must put lever into 3 which as lever is stuck in PARK was impossible...I tried pulling out the shift knob button as described and when I still couldn't get any response found that when I pushed the button back in that I was finally able to get shift lever to respond and finally come out of park...
I now get code for no TCM Signal P1626 No Powertrain Data Bus Signal Missing Message from TCM which now triggers ABS , Airbag ,ESP , and Check Engine light all with the cause no TCM Signal .... Now wondering if any easy way to test for data bus signal ?
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I bought my Hyundai new in late 2011. No problems with the car (other than no spare tire???) until just out of the warranty (63,000). Had a noticeable drop in power on the highway. No warning lights. Drove another 100 miles with power intermittently dropping. Next day engine light comes on. $800 later I have a new high pressure fuel pump. All seems well. after a few weeks, I notice that the car seems to be revving when I depress the clutch to change gears, like up to 4000 rpm's. If I leave the clutch in for a few seconds it will begin to decrease. But if I shift right into gear as I have done for the last 35 years of driving, it is not smooth, jerky. This seems to happen mostly going into 2,3, and 4th gear, always going up. It never happens when downshifting. I tried tapping the brakes when shifting up, and sometimes it does seems to drop the rpm's. What it might be. It probably is related to the work that was done, but I don't really trust the dealer and want to have a little info going in.
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I have a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX and recently it started making a squealing noise while the clutch is depressed at low speeds. I've researched that it's likely the pilot bearing or bushing? My questions are: should I have the entire clutch replaced? How much should it cost? And will I cause more problems if I wait too long to do anything? How long can I wait?
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I have a 2011 Tiguan 125TSI with the 7 speed DSG. When it starts cold, you can hear a noise that sounds like a bad gear change when going from 3th to 4th, and 4th to 5th. It almost sounds like changing gears in a manual car without clutch completely depressed. It has been there since I got the car brand new, but recently it seems to be getting worse.
Once the engine gets warm, the sound goes away and gear changes are smooth.
I've asked the VW dealer about the sound and they tell me it is normal. Is this right? The problem is it is very hard to demonstrate to VW the issue since it may happen only once when the engine is cold. I've left it with the dealer overnight and they were able to reproduce it in the morning... but again, they tell me this is normal.
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In my 1998 Nissan Frontier I had the clutch replaced at about 115,000 miles. That included a "clutch kit" which included a new throwout bearing. Currently, I'm at only 145,000 miles. Much of that is highway miles.
However, a noise has developed. It's a whirring or humming that happens when the clutch is depressed (disengaged). The noise is not present when the clutch is released in any gear, including neutral.
My first guess would be the throwout bearing, but again, that was replaced only 30,000 miles ago, and plenty of highway miles. The original lasted as long as the original clutch.
My second guess would be the pilot shaft bearing. That was not replaced with the clutch. (So the shop says.)
Any other guesses or advice? No matter the case, is it a problem if I leave it be? I can live with the noise if I know it's not really a problem.
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B2200 mazda: I've recently got a screechy noise only when in gear but gas pedal NOT depressed. Could this be an indication of a bad U joint noise? Or? The noise seems to be coming from the rear chassis of car. Noise seems worse if going in reverse. Possibly coincidentally I started noticing the noise after a shock absorber worked its way loose, causing lots of racket. (The mechanic who'd installed it has since tightened it.) Would all that rumbling from the loose shock have caused something to break or work loose? Or is it just age of vehicle (22 yrs) By the way, the noise is very similar to a wire scratching metal. I also have had the classic thunk noise of a u joint, for a longer period of time-- never looked into though.
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This morning when I started my car the RPMs were all over the place. The engine would rev to just below 2k and then drop, as it it were gonna die and right before it did, it would rev back up. Then, when I tried to move it, it would not accelerate and would hardly move and while coasting it dies if the clutch is depressed. The car does not die when idling (albeit a very rough idle) but it does when it is moving.
It flashed a check engine for a few seconds at one point but went away and has not come back on. I am running APR Stg 1 and a Carbonio intake. I switched from 93 octane mode to stock and nothing changed.
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I've noticed lately that my Prius (2008) sometimes decides to keep the ICE running even though the engine is warm and the gas pedal is not depressed. I can pulse and glide (with the engine off during glide) the first 5-10 minutes of driving, and then all of a sudden the ICE starts running constantly. I have to press the EV button to be able to glide. Quite annoying... I bought the Prius just to get rid of the ignition jerking.
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I've searched but can't find what my problem is , ON idle when clutch is not depressed loud ticking noise , but when I push the clutch in it goes away . Also the ticking noise will get louder if I accelerate . ONLY Im first gear will I hear a loud grinding noise which means I have to quickly switch into second . Sound similar to something being dragged along a fence . Again the grinding sound I'm first will only happen if I'm giving it gas. Car has 325,000 km . Something with the transmission ?
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My brake pedal is making a creaking noise when depressed and can also be heard when letting off the pedal. The noise is not coming from the brakes themselves (front/back are like new) but the pedal area or somewhere behind it. This noise doesn't start until I've driven the car for a little while. The brakes work fine for the most part but sometimes feel a bit spongy if making a sudden or hard stop. The fluid levels are fine.
I'm taking it in on Friday and hoping that the brakes just need to be bled a little or maybe the pedal just needs lube, but I'm worried it might be the booster or master cylinder---if it is one of these?
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Sometime the car is fighting to move forwards when I start to depress accelerator pedal and it sounds like "click click CLICK..." the sound changes from lower to louder depending on how I depress accelerator pedal... (like the car is trying to hard to move)...
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Is it normal on the 2.0T that when you are driving and stop at a red light to get vibration that you can feel in the car and hear in the motor? As soon as you let off the break it stops and the engine stops the noise. I don't drive the car enough really (my wifes) to know if it is normal or if this just started. It is an 07 and just turned 12k on the weekend trip. Also, having a problem on Sat radio with there being a high pitch hum in the back ground? [IMG] [URL] ...
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For a little wile now, I have had a growling noise when I depress the clutch pedal with the engine running. It mostly does it when the truck is cold and goes away after a few uses but was getting worse and taking longer to go away. The transmission shifts normally, the clutch operates normally and it does not make the noise if I put the transmission in neutral and let the clutch out. So I'm thinking dry throw out bearing.
I did an oil change Monday, and while it was up on the ramps, I decided to check the transmission oil level, I mean its got a 181k on it so its about time to check, right. Bone dry. I put about 2 qts of gear oil in the transmission that the service manual says has a 4 1/4 pint capacity. I took it out for a drive today and the noise is gone. Go figure.
I only drive the truck one or two times a week, sometimes less so in a couple of weeks I will check the transmission again for a leak, but there was no sign of a leak when I was under there Monday. But is still shifts smoothly, makes no noise.
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This morning I could feel vibration in both the clutch pedal and the brake pedal under normal acceleration. This just happened and is significant enough to make me feel something is wrong. Car has about 5700 miles on it. To be honest, I have never liked this transmission and have zero confidence in it. It feels completely weak, loose, soft, and lacks any feedback except unbelievably notchy shifting. Maybe it's my DieselGeek. I've already had to tighten/adjust it twice in ~2000 miles.
I am not resting my foot on the pedals during acceleration. I can feel the vibration as I go to engage the clutch/apply brakes.
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Nissan Rogue SV 2011 is keyless entry vehicle. When using remote starter, the engine shuts off when brake pedal depressed and the car is restarted to drive away. does this 'turning off/turning on' the engine damage any of the systems of this vehicle. it just doesn't seem a good idea to have the engine turned off and then immediately turned on.
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