Passat (B7) :: 2014 - Ammonia Vapor Coming From Cabin HVAC System
Jul 29, 2016
2014 TDI Passat with 66k miles. No unusual problems until this point. Three days ago I began to notice a strong ammonia odor coming through the ac vents. Its become significantly worse over the last 24 hours. The vaporized ammonia is sufficiently concentrated to cause eye and nasal irritation. It occurs rapidly, within 30 seconds of turning on the recirc mode. Turning off the recirc mode can clear the cabin quite fast as well. There is no odor or leak perceptible in the engine compartment, under the car, or in the trunk space.
No check engine warning or alarm that there is a problem with the DEF system. DEF fluid container was last topped off about 5k miles ago. Clearly, this is a significant failure of the emission system. I've done a cursory search but have not seen this exact problem written up before. Wondering why a car would be designed with the HVAC close to the to the exhaust/emissions system that it could capture gasses intended for the exhaust system? Its not so much the ammonia I/m worried about as the odorless and toxic Nox gasses the emission system should be reducing. getting dropped off at the dealer tomorrow.
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I know this has been covered many times before but I know how to remedy the problem. My question is that I have an 09 which is still under warranty, is replacing the cabin filter/charcoal filter due to bacterial odor covered under my bumper to bumper warranty? I found some posts where people said it was but I want to double check before i waste time that I don't have with the dealer since I've been really busy with school.
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My 2003 Passat has a musty smell coming from the HVAC system that just won't go away. Have resealed pollen filter and had airsept treatment (this worked for a while, but now the smell is worse than ever). Two dealers have tried (and failed) to fix this. It's so bad I can't take passengers in the car.
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My 08 B6 wagon has a very foul odor emanating from the HVAC system. It started after my wife washed the windshield with vinegar to get rid of some scaling from the bizarre water we have here. She thought the smell was from some of the vinegar running off the windshield. Well, that was several months ago and the smell is no better. Just recently, the temps have been down enough to turn off the AC switch and the smell is even worse.
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I have a 2014 IS350 AWD F-sport and I recently just noticed a weird sound coming from the right side of the car. I can only hear it from inside the cabin, when windows are opened it can't be heard. It sounds like something is lose or rattling, but only happens around 3k+ rpm. Speed does not matter, I've tried revving very slowly in park all the way up to 4k rpm and it can be heard.
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how can you tell if your vapor recovery system is faulty? I cannot fill my gas tank unless I very slowly put gas in. It takes forever to even put in a few gallons. I think the vent is plugged or I overfilled the tank and got gas in the canister.
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I have a 2014 TDI with 86,000 miles on it. Several weeks ago I had the heater core changed and since then the car has ran hot twice when what appears to be a regen. The heat has stopped working again. When it is running hot, I can smell a strong odor of ammonia. It does not run hot all the time. Last time it ran hot, I felt the radiator and it was not hot all over. The passenger side hose was not hot and the top of the radiator was not hot. I have taken it to the dealership several times.
At first they said that they thought that the thermostat needed changing. I declined and said that it would run hot all the time with a bad thermostat. The last time I brought it to the dealer - I stated that I think the radiator is clogged. Now they are indicating that they want to change the radiator, thermostat, heater core (again), and flush the system. The system has been pressure tested and no leaks have been found. The tech indicated that it ran hot while in the shop with the A/C on and it boiled over.
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I recently went on a road trip and at one point white steam started coming out of my AC vents. i pulled over on the side of the road to take a look under the hood and everything was fine. no burnt smell or anything. i was driving through some high temps (around 100) and it was a bit humid. i figured it might have been because of humidity, but I've never seen that before. now a few days later I'm back in arizona and this morning i saw the steam coming out again, but very faintly. Its also very humid right now. The AC works fine, blows cold air like it should.
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The water was not actually getting into the HVAC itself, but getting past the air inlet assembly from under the leaf screen directly into the firewall area. I will try a gasket maker that comes in rolls that I can press into place. there is no room for tools there.
Everywhere around the heater and AC module is dry. The foam on the inside firewall immediately under the air inlet assembly is soaked, yet the inside of the assembly is bone dry. I removed the entire to diagnose the leak. A light rain was enough to fill the back foot well with an inch of water.
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I am done with this swap (I hope) changed out the 302 in my 81 van for a 351. The only smog spaghetti I am keeping is the fuel vapor canister but I am unsure what the #1 line in the photo is for I have the manual but doesn't state what it does my research suggests its a fuel vapor return line from the carb bowl back to the canister ...... I now have an edlebrock carb obviously w/o this port so my question is
#1 where would you reconnect this "whatever it is" line on carb or manifold
#2 I am going to install that #3 fitting in photo on the edlebrock manifold at the same location & extend #2 hose to it. I am thinking that's ok...
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I have a 2013 Camry SE that is, out of the blue, not blowing any air from the HVAC system. I checked the 2 A/C fuses any they are ok. The lights light up on the control panel like normal and the rear window defogger works correctly, so I don't think it's the control panel. I can't find any fuses or relays relayed to the blower motor in either fuse box.
What else should I check? The car is still under warranty (for a month!) but if it's a cheap and easy fix, I'd rather save the hassle of giving it to the dealer for a day and fix it myself.
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Our 2002 Camry SE V6 incurs a burning odor through the HVAC system after braking from moderate or higher speeds (at low speeds, this does not happen). It can last for a few seconds or a few minutes and then goes away (it does not happen while in motion). I cannot smell anything outside the car.
The car was inspected & serviced two months ago with no issues found. The front valve cover was replaced about a year ago but the back valve cover was OK to leave as is.
I would want to say it is the brakes or the snow tires causing the odor but it is strange it only smells inside the car.
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I drove about 25 mi today, made a brief stop and then continued home. On the return trip, the system would not blow any air in any mode at all. While driving, I cycled it through various modes and it would not do a damn thing. Later in the day I started up and it worked fine... What might cause that to occur?
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I've been having this issue randomly with my car. Usually after I turned off the car with Climate system on it will come back on with car starting, but sometime it would not.
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Two related problems:
1) Our 2008 dodge grand caravan's recycled cabin air/exterior air flipper is broken. You know, makes the clicking clunking sound until it gives up?
2) Unfortunately this has made the exhaust smell that much worse.
Usually when you drive above 35mph you don't catch engine fumes, but when its anything less you fear you're poisoning your family into early cancer. Obviously we have a leak in the HVAC system somewhere and anytime we take it somewhere for service on something else they just shrug their shoulders.
How to locate the leak so I can keep the engine compartment out of our a/c?
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I was just wondering where the interior temperature sensor of the hvac system is located?
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2008 ISF. Has made whining sound (like a supercharger) off and on since '11 and 30k miles. Clearly coming from accessory belt system.
Having read this forum I assumed it was the tensioner, and finally replaced it last week @ 52k. Spun all pulleys by hand and all felt/sounded fine. Actually the old tensioner seemed fine too, even the belt- no cracks or wear, so I didn't replace belt at first, just tensioner.
Well new tensioner reduced the sound just a little, but still there at times, so I replaced the belt with a goodyear gatorback and that made the whine worse than ever. So I put the old belt back on, and am currently still dealing with some whine,
I don't have another ISF to compare to, but it can't be normal. It's not loud in cabin, my friends don't think anything of it, but I hear it and it's embarrassing.
Since I cant hear or feel an issue with any of the pulleys, is there a logical order in which I should start replacing them? I'm at a loss as for what to do next. I can't pinpoint where noise originates since it only occurs under load while I'm driving, but it's certainly from the accessory belt system.
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I have a 2013 XLT with a sirius enabled radio. my display works (time,date, shows bluetooth connected) but no sound is coming out of the system. What this could be? i tried replacing the cd player/motherboard but that did nothing... could it be a fuse?
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Experienced the problem of a flashing defrost button and the entire HVAC system "frozen"? All the other buttons become useless while the defrost button is flashing on and off. If I then hold either the a/c button or the auto button, the system starts up at 75 degrees with the air running. I can then adjust to where I want it to be.
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I was recently on a trip pulling my 32' Travel Trailer, and out of the Hvac system started blowing scalding hot air and soot and smoke into the cab. I pulled over to check things out and could find nothing wrong. When the turbo kicks in it blows even hotter. I could find nothing wrong at the time. As I got back on the road again it started again a few miles down the road.
I made it home and started checking things out. Around the dash, airbag, glove box, on the window , headliner and carpeting, is covered in soot and smoke. the computer is now telling me that ALL the doors are ajar, power locks and key fob do not work, 3/4 of the window switches do not work and 1 window does not work now. I removed the glove box and the panel underneath it to look at the HVAC system.
What I saw about made me cry. The Plastic that houses the HVAC system had started melting and the HVAC hoses have melted. I have still not found the reason for any of this to happen. Also when I got the truck a year ago the Turbo would spool up around 1800 to 2000 RPM. Now it does not spool up until around 3000 to 3250 RPM.
HVAC system and hose
HVAC system housing
Glove Box and Vent
Air bag and Vent
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Was 7 degrees F out this morning. Went to turn on the defrost and heard this: (may need to turn up audio a bit)
2013 F150 HVAC blower noise in cold temps - YouTube
There was some snow/ice buildup under the "grate" that sits above that I imagine is the air intake for the blower. Hoping that it was just Ice buildup that will thaw out.
I ended up having to turn it on because the condensation on the windshield was becoming a safety issue when I drove into work. Motor made quite a high pitched wine. Better that than slid into a car.
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