I have a 2013 Passat TDI with remote starter, when I start the car it runs until I unlock the doors and then the engine shuts off, I know there is something I am doing wrong but can't seem to find the information in the manual on how to keep the engine running.
View 6 RepliesI Have a 93 bronco with a5.8 the truck will start up and run fine for a while and then the engine gets really ruff starts back firing and shuts off it only starts with starting fluid or after it sits for about 30 mins.
View 7 RepliesMy 99 250, 7.3 is having some strange issues as of lately. When I start it in the morning, when the engine has fully cooled down, it starts right up, then it throws the "wait to start light" runs real rough and just shuts off. Run the glow plugs a few times, start it up and it will do the same thing for maximum 30 minutes, then all the sudden I start it and it runs fine. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel bowl, new fuel filter, I just don't know where my problem could be. It doesn't make sense. But once I get it running and it warms up, runs fine all day. Go to bed, wake up, has problems again.
View 14 RepliesI recently purchased a new 2015 toyota camry XLE v6 and i love it! HOWEVER the remote start feature i have a problem with. I use the Keyfob that came with the car but i just have to press the lock button twice and hold the third time to remotely start the engine. when start the engine with the remote and it starts normally, when i put my hand on the door handle it unlocks normally but when i open the door the engine shuts off and i have to restart the engine when i get in.
No other car i know does this and its annoying. Did they not install it properly? Or can I have it programmed to not shut off the engine when i open the door and just press the start stop button when I get in like any other car. I got an excuse from the dealership that its a security feature on the car but you cant unlock the door without the keyfob being close anyway.
While I am driving my Passat randomly shuts off and then will not start for 5 min - a few hours. No beeps or warnings, the car just shuts off. When I try to restart it, everything sounds normal, the engine turns over fine, but it just wont start.
View 4 RepliesThe check engine light came on again after coming on about a week ago and then shutting of by itself. Everything seems to run normal with the car so I don't know if I should ignore the light and just keep driving or what. What would you do? My car is a 2011 Ford Taurus.
View 1 Replies2010 Escape with 74,000 miles. Backstory: This is my daughters car who is away at college about 300 miles away. About a year ago the engine started hesitating when driving and would stall to idle at highway speeds. She took the car in to dealer and they replaced the Throttle body under the CSP that had been issued just prior to the dealer visit. All was fine for about 3 months, then she reports that the car is doing the same thing. Check engine light briefly illuminates and goes right back off when this occurs. She is able to slip the car into neutral and it seems to correct the malfunction. Unfortunately she has gotten so good at this that she keeps her hand on the gearshift when driving. It seems to happen at various speeds with no warning and no lasting effects.
She came to visit for Christmas and I was able to replicate the problem after about 30 minutes of city driving, but not quick enough to take a picture of the wrench that illuminated briefly. I slowed to the edge of the road, put it in park and turned off the key (engine ran the whole time at idle). Cranked back up and good to go! She had the oil changed about a thousand miles ago, I replaced the air filter last night and she had to return to her house for work in the next couple of days. She said it happened 5 times on the way home last night.
Car has always been serviced regularly and was a certified pre-owned when we bought it in March or so of 2012. I also bought the extended warranty although that may be expired by now.
Her local dealer said they can't fix it if the CEL is not on or the problem is not occurring at the exact time they have it in the shop. Now, I am not sure but was under the impression that the computer would record any codes and store them even if the light went off and the car returned to normal.
I have a '92 Ranger with a 2.3 liter engine. She starts and runs a couple of seconds and shuts down. I'm thinking maybe a fuel pump is not putting out thepressure needed. Gotta go to work tomorrow and gotta get the truck running today.
View 2 RepliesThe last 3 times I have tried to fill up, I have had about 1/3 of a tank. Tthe pump runs for ~15 -20 litres and then shuts off. I cannot fill any further. I have 9/16ths in the tank now, 360km to empty. I will phone the dealer tomorrow. 42000km now.
View 29 RepliesJust passed 700 miles on my new baby, loving every minute of it. What I don't quite understand is why the remote start shuts off when you unlock the door. That just seems so counterintuitive. I'm sure there's a legitimate safety reason why, but it seems to add more wear to the motor by turning it off and on so many more times since one has to start it again once getting inside.
Any way to hack the system in such a way that once remote started the car doesn't shut off when you get in?
Logistically it might be an issue since I'm sure stepping on the brake would shut the car off when running on remote start (since no actual key gets inserted into a keyhole)...but then again the key being in proximity could permit driving the vehicle... I dunno.
I just returned after leaving LS 460 in garage for 5 months. Car & a/c start up fine but after 5 minutes of driving the a/c shuts down & can not be re-started until I shut off the engine. I re-start the car and again after about 5 minutes, the a/c shuts down. All a/c panel lights are off except "outside temperature". In the dashboard console where the outside temperature is normally displayed there is an "E" displayed instead. The coolant fluid level is fine.
View 7 RepliesI recently had a remote starter (AutoMate) installed in my 2008 LS460. The remote starter works great but when I open the car door the engine shuts off. I then need to restart by pressing the START button on the dashboard. Is this a safety issue or is this something that can be avoided?
View 8 RepliesOften, when starting it will run rough and throw different misfire codes. Most of the time it smooths out in short order (a minute or less). When it doesn't smooth out quickly, it smooths out when I clear the code. Also, rarely it will start very hard. I have to wimd out the starter pretty good to get it to start. All that I have done is cleaned the MAF sensor.
View 3 Replies96 civic 120K miles, stock, automatic.
In March I was running low on fuel, maybe 1 gallon left in the tank. It took a few cranks and on the last try i gave it a little gas and it started, albeit very rocky for about 1 minute of driving, filled up immediately and 2 freeway miles later, no real issues. I live in LA so very low ambient temperature is not a problem.
April through May, starting was a little rocky, it was inconsistently rocky too, sometimes there was no problem. Usually it's weak, stuttering, sometimes just cranking but I seem to get it to start. I stopped giving the pedal gas because I read that's bad (I own a vintage bike, so it's news to me). I don't drive that far and figured I'd try some Seafoam and some freeway miles would clean out any debris. Worked for that tank a bit for the next tank before the problem came back.
Still getting the rough starts, but now when I give the car gas as I pull out sometimes it doesn't accelerate for 15-30 seconds, maybe 25 yards then it drive like normal. No dying at all but getting worse with starting up.
I've tried turning the key (not turning the engine over) 5 times and cranking on the 6th and it seems to work. I thought maybe it's the fuel pump or fuel filter but read it could be an ignition coil/ spark plug/ spark plug wire issue. Two different ball games.
My MPG is not really droppingI had a new fuel filter put in in February as routine maintenance (thing was on so tight had to bring it to a shop so no rookie mistakes there). Timing belt &water pump replaced 6,000 miles ago
I have a 93 Camry that quit on the highway. No spark, crack in condensor replaced distributer. Still not run. Rotor not turning, replaced timing belt, main engine fuse heating up replaced that. Now it starts right up but only runs 10 minutes. Then won't restart until several hours go by then it will start again. Runs like a champ when it starts.
View 1 Replies Having a problem with my 1997 Buick Lesabre. It's a v6, automatic 4 door, and I live in good ole HOT Florida.
Anyway for about two weeks ago I went to start up the vehicle and it would turn over, run for about 2 seconds, and then turn off and did that about 5 or 6 times. Knowing very little about cars I had a friend try to jump me, and nothing, still wouldn't turn on. So I left the car there, came back five days later. It started and ran, and I drove straight to the mechanic. I had noticed my belt whistling a little so he put on a new built, fix a power steering pump fluid leak, and put on a new belt tensioner.
Anyway, I pick it up a week ago and it starts up no problem. Today the problem has started again. Some times now though it will start up, run for a little while and then just shut off. Doesn't seem to make a difference whether I am idling or not. Sometimes now though it will turn over, but not actually fire up and start.
I have a problem with my Durango whenever i drive my car it is fine and normal. When i get to where I am at and i try to start my car again it will just turn over like it wants to start but doesnt. I just recently started driving the car for about 4 days ago and it drove fine. Until yesterday i got to my shop and tried to start it.. it will just crank. I scanned it and it turned out i had a bad crankshaft sensor. I gone ahead and replace that and the car starts up fine. I drove it around town and then this morning drove it to work and when i tried to leave for lunch it did the same thing. It cranks but does not fire up. I scanned it.. and no codes. My dad was saying something like sometimes it has sparks going to the crank and sometimes it doesn't.
View 2 RepliesI recently had a problem with my car stalling when warm and not starting at all until cooler. This was the crank position sensor.
Now the car will not start without starting fluid. When starting fluid is used, the car will start and then run fine. Once you shut it off then try to start it, same thing. The fuel pump turns on when key is in on position. Holding pedal down to try and clear flood does nothing. Car just cranks and cranks but doesn't start until starting fluid is used.
So there is either not quite enough pressure at fuel rail, pump is not getting enough draw from battery, several other things could be suspect. Car is a 2003 Hyundai Accent. Battery tested borderline ok. It does the same thing with donor battery attached. I have a fuel gage but need an adaptor for it that I don't currently have to fit on this fuel rail. Stumped because the car runs beautifully once starting fluid gets it going.
A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
View 14 RepliesA few minutes into a summer's evening drive, the engine shuts off and will not start. We've determined that there is fuel to the fuel injectors and they are clicking. There is a strong spark coming from the distributor. When there is fire, from cranking the motor, it results in a backfire in the intake manifold. As for the OBD, it's a 16 pin connector that when I shorted pins 5 and 6 (top-right pins) with a paper clip, gave all code 12s (not sure if it's OBDI or II)....
View 8 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford Escort SE wagon with 112k miles on it. Last week when leaving work my car started very rough. This was unusual so I killed and restarted the car about three times before letting it run it's course (~30 seconds), after which the car ran fine. About a week later on my way to work the car seemed to 'sputter' (for lack of a better word) when I pushed down on the petal looking for some power on two separate occasions. On each side of the sputters the car seemed to respond fine, but when it did sputter there was a severe lack of power. I got to and from work just fine, but while letting the car idle in the parking spot of my apartment for a minute before shutting off the engine the check engine light finally came on. The following morning the car again started rough (as if it were misfiring/running on 3 of 4 cylinders) and this time it took a good minute before smoothing out. However, after the car smoothed out I experienced no issues on the way to work, no sputtering, no loss of power, nothing. Doing some initial online research I feel that the problem may be one (or more) of the following:
-Fuel pump
-Vacuum lines
-O2 Sensor
-Spark plugs (they are original)
-Fuel Filter (it is actually past due for replacement)
I plan on getting this checked out ASAP, but that still may be 2ish weeks away with my schedule. Some similar reports say that I may be having a 'lean mixture' issue (not getting enough fuel), but I haven't had the time to check the code. My question is, how "safe" is it to continue driving my car with the current situation? Is it at a super high risk of failure/random stalling during rush hour? Will it cause any damage to the engine if there is a cylinder misfire upon start up? I was also wondering if the car would be reasonably reliable to drive on a ~400 mile road trip on an upcoming weekend, but I am making plans as if it is not.
Additional Details:-Tried charging the fuel lines (car to 'ON' then 'OFF' position 3-4 times), had no effect on the morning start-up-Commute to/from work is about 20 miles