Passat (B7) :: 2012 - Windshield / Defogger Fans Blow Harder When Accelerate
Mar 31, 2014
Just passed 30 months and 30k miles in my 2012 TDI SEL and suddenly the air conditioning fans blow harder as I press on the accelerator pedal.
To be more clear, as I accelerate, I can hear the windshield/defogger fans blow harder. When I let up on the accelerator the fan noise dies down. I tried adjusting the A/C settings to blow to the middle or feet only, and also enabling/disabling cabin air circulation. It only seems to be the defogger fans that do this.
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My 2005 Jetta gli 220k miles just spurred going down the road now every time I accelerate and get into high Rpms the Ac vents start to blow harder and feels like loss of power. It's fines at idle and first gear but 2nd and up its does it I'm stumped....
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I normally drive my 2010 Prius. But I have been driving my wife's 2012 Camry XLE the last couple of days. (My Prius was clean and hers was not.
Well twice in the last two days I started her car and put it in drive to find it was accelerating uncontrollably! The harder I pushed on the brake the harder it accelerated.
After taking my foot off of the brake I discovered that my size 13 EEE shoe was on both the brake AND the accelerator.
Now knowing this, the same thing happened the second day! Luckily They both happened in parking lots and NO damage was incurred!
This has never happened in my 10 Prius or my 08 Prius. maybe the pedals are not as close or the Prius's low end power was not noticeable.
It would be ironic if all the BS over the floor mats came down to big feet or improperly placed pedals. My feet have been the same size for 50 years and many cars and NEVER had this occur before.
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I recently had my Focus in the shop for some body work due to hail damage. After I got the car back, the air vents on the dashboard and the defogger would not blow air. Only the lower vents would blow air, regardless of which setting I had the vent selector on. (Even if I had the selector to defogger or dashboard vents only, the vents by my feet blew out air). The guy who runs the body shop said that wouldn't be related to anything they did on the car. What might be causing this? It's no longer under warranty, so I want to know if there's an easy at-home fix. (Also, when I got the car back, the dashboard clock and the preset radio stations had been reset. Don't know if this might be related to the problem with the vents).
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I recently picked up my first Gen III after having traded in my Gen II. I'm certainly happier about a lot of things, but do miss a few things too. One being the option to turn air recirculation on when using the windshield defogger.
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Abridged version: My fans won't blow any air out of the vents. If I spin the blower/fan motor that is behind the glove compartment, it'll work again. But the cycle repeats itself every time I turn the car on.
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CURRENT PROBLEM:The fans don't blow any air after about 30 minutes of driving/once the car has warmed up.Also, A/C seems to permanently be on even if I don't have the A/C button on, but the fan problem is the main issue(There has been a loud hum behind the dash (for over a year) that speeds up the faster I set the fan speed so the motor is going but no air comes out.)
What's happened in the past:
1. Last summer the A/C stopped working. Will have to look back at receipts more to see exactly what was done (not sure if it worked through winter).
2. Basically the heat only came out of the vent to the left of the steering wheel all winter (no air came out of other vents or it barely came out but was cold).
3. A/C wasn't blowing cold so they replaced thermo switch. When they did this, car wouldn't do anything so they replaced the computer (fortunately I didn't pay for that).
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I just bought my 2010 Prius from a Toyota dealer a few weeks ago. It has 103,000 miles, so it's not under warranty.
I thought the a/c was a bit weak when I got the car, but I always drive it in Eco mode, so I thought that was the reason. It wasn't terrible, just wasn't "ice" cold. Well, today it has completely kicked the bucket. Nothing. A/C light comes on, fans blow hard, but no cold air.
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Got my Accent on June 30th, has 8500km on it already and I love my car.
Recently, I've noticed a sound coming from the passenger side when stopped at lights or when I've just parked. Best description would be a bit like a crackle (liquidy/whistly type of sound). Only happens when the A/C/defogger is on.
It's not very noticeable, I only hear it when I don't have the radio on, but it's been bothering me. I found a few posts about a rattle, but from what I can remember, it's not really a rattle.
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I have a 97 f150 4.6, when I'm towing a load and trying to accelerate a little harder either to just gain speed or climb an incline I get this terrible crackling noise from my engine as if I was low on coolant or low on oil. But all my fluids are good. It even does it when I'm climbing an incline not loaded. What this could be?
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I took my 1998 Infiniti I30 to my mechanic for routine maintenance, and I noticed the engine was working a tiny bit harder to startup and to accelerate on highway in the last 2 weeks. They discovered the air filter and housing were completely burnt out! We're scratching our heads. Internet search and check with other mechanics- no clues. It's been a dream for years with routine maintenance, has only 125k, last service May 2013 since I only drove it 5K since then. I'm the only driver and it sleeps in my garage (secure, no rodents). What the heck?
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X2 nights ago at 11:45pm I was driving home from a friends house with my gf and were going about 65 on the highway and it's lightly raining, then all of a sudden my headlights, windsheld wipers, turnsignals, my ac/fans all just shut off so I had to pull over right away. After sitting there for about 15 mintues I figure out my high beams still work but only if I hold them on(clicking it on doesn't work. So I drive home and the next day check all the fuses in the drivers door and they r all fine. Everything else works in the car but the stuff stated above. My car was reposesd about a year ago when I lost my job and they put this thing I have to enter a code every month, it messed my windsheld wipers and turn signals up before but not anything else! But it still works and the other stuff doesn't, and behind the dash it sounded like crackling and smelt like burning electric right before it shut off.
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I thought blend door only adjusted temperature. Mine is manual? System no ECM control. Need defrost....
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I'm having with my Ex. When I have the A/C (or heat) on, it seems to only blow out the front windshield defroster. Once in a while it'll blow out where it should, but 99% of the time it only comes out the defrost. This is when I have it on face, face/feet and feet.
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I have a 2007 Ford Freestyle and last summer the A/C would only blow cold air when you would accelerate. If you were idling like at a stoplight it would blow warm air. I bought one of those freon refill kits and added freon but it said I was already over pressurized. So now that winter has passed I bought an AC manifold gauge kit and emptied the system and tried starting over. When I add freon the low pressure side goes up way too much and the high pressure side doesnt go up enough. So the low pressure side is over the recommended pressure and the high side is under the recommended pressure. Do I need to replace the compressor or is it something else? (I can also hear the compressor kick in when I put on the A/C)
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I have a 2012 with 5k miles. Starting near 3500 miles, the car started doing hard shifts when 'cold', e.g., when started after sitting overnight. As the engine warms over the first few miles, the shifting smooths out.
The shift behavior also occasionally presents when the engine compartment cools during normal driving. E.g., if I drive several miles at 45mph on a cool day, the airflow under the hood allows more cooling than when stopped at a light.
The cold shifts are getting harder as the mileage of the vehicle increases. Changing from 'D' to 'S' does not work for the problem.
After several rounds with the dealer, they connected me with a Toyota regional representative. He and I drove my car, along with several other 2012's on the dealer's lot, each with a different odometer reading from 2k to 10k. I have also driven a 2012 owned by my parents, that has 2k miles. The conclusion he and I both reached is that the 2012's have a common cold-shift problem that starts around 3k-4k miles, and worsens with mileage. The highest mileage car I drove (an XLE) had 10k miles, and its cold-start shift performance was terrible.
After a month, I'm still waiting to hear from Toyota about what they plan to do (if anything). What was the resolution?
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Three days ago while stopped at a light the car creeped forward forcing me to press harder on the brake to keep vehicle from moving.
Next day drove for 100+ miles with some stop and go traffic no problems. Third day drove 50 miles and upon arriving at home brakes felt spongy and nearly hit the floor the dash illuminated "Check Brake System".
My Camry has 5437 miles on it.
The dealer just called and said they need to replace a "brake booster". They said there is a TSB that addresses this issue in a VIN range.
Image here : YouTube [URL].....
I'm glad I was only stopping to pull into my drive way and not the freaking stop and go freeway traffic on the way to work in the morning.
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So when i try and brake boost, I put my foot on the brake and then harder on the gas but instead of building power my ecu just cuts the boost. I tried it with traction control off aswell.
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I just want to circualate air. Everytime, I increase the speed of the fans, automatic temperature control kicked in. What is the proper way to bypass Temp control (no heat or AC)?
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Yesterday I took test drive of Toyota Camry SE 2012 (New).It was really good, except: When I came out of the car, I felt some change in vision and a bit of headache. The feeling was something similar to when you wear glasses which has significant number for a minute and then you take them off.I figured out this was because of the windshield having some distortions. So, are all new Camrys like this only or there was something wrong with that particular windshield?
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My transmission died last night on the way home from school. I was driving down the road just after leaving school and as I started to accelerate the car, I noticed that it wasn't moving so I pushed the pedal a little harder when I saw the rpm gauge rev. Up pretty high. The car was showing it was in 4 th gear and as I was slowing down so was the number on the display. I came to a stop and tried to move forward but noting. I had the car towed to the dealership so now the fun begins to see what is wrong with it.
I had the car in a few months ago for a whining sound coming from the car especially when I would put the car in reverse to back up. The dealer said we don't see anything wrong, go figure.
I'm suspecting that the transmission is shot. When the car was towed to the dealer I had to engage the parking break because the car wouldn't stay parked, it would roll even though it was in park.
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