Passat (B7) :: 2012 - While Opening Door Hear Electrical Noise?
Dec 27, 2010
I am new to VW. I just purchased 2 new cars on Monday of this week. A 2012 Jetta SE for my wife and a 2012 Passat SE for me. We are loving both of these cars.
I have a question though. If my car has been locked for a little while, I unlock the car, open the door, I hear a noise inside the car as if an electronic motor is running. It only last for a second or 2 and I can't pinpoint the noise. It almost sounds like the power seat is moving but I don't think that is it. Hears that noise when you are entering your car?
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My front left door, when opening and closing, makes that grinding/clicking/popping type noise coming from the hinges (I'm guessing)...I'm searching for the correct word to use to describe it...like when the door would be off kilter or something and the metal is catching...if that makes sense...you can hear it when moving the door, not just at the halfway point of being opened/closed where it will stay in that position ... There has been no damage to that area...no weight put down on door when opened...and it started out of nowhere.
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I have a 2012 Camry LE and notice that when i open the rear driver side door, there is a clunking noise when it opens into one position. I tried greasing the hinge and it didn't make much of a difference.
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I have a 2000 E150 (Glavel Conversion) van and the interior lights do not illuminate when the doors are opened, although they used to. They also no longer turn on from the headlight dimmer switch. They will turn on individually if the manual switch at each light is pressed while the engine is running, so the bulbs and wiring appear to be working. I replaced the headlight switch with no noticeable effect. Is there a timing circuit that switches these on for a short period of time to allow illuminated entry that could have failed? If so, where would I find the module and how would I test? Relays and fuses look good.
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Hit the button and you can hear it unlock, pull the handle and nothing. All other doors open fine, just the main I like to use for time to time......you know to get in.
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I just bought a used 2015 Camry LE 3 days ago. I just went to open the driver's door & heard popping as it opened. It's coming from the hinge area. I see posts about older Sienna vans having problems with broken welds causing the sound. Is it possible that a 2015 Camry could have the same problem? It's still under warranty. Are there any TSB's about it? Anything official from Toyota that I can take back to the dealer so they don't try to lube it instead of repair it & try to wait out my warranty?
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Found the answer... it's the brake booster pump...
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My accent 1.4L gl at noise on road condition and especially rough road.. I can hear the bumps on the tire LOUDLY.. do i have to change my tires? or spring?
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I put my car in reverse and my door locks has some sort of spasm. The rear locks started twitching for several seconds then stopped.
Now both key fobs will only unlock the drive's side door. All locks work fine with the key.
Untimely demise on my remote unlock feature? Other threads have dealt with single door issues. We had that problem with the rear door on our 99 but this not the same issue since only one door will unlock remotely.
I know that my car battery needs to be replaced but it should not cause a problem. Also all fuses were checked and are ok. What to check.
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My drivers side door just started clicking when opening or shutting ...
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So, last night I buy this 1998 Passat; good deal high miles but in great shape. I look around the car today and noticed that the carpet in the trunk on the side of the fuel door is disheveled. I don't think much of it until I try to access the fuel cap, then I reach in my hand and manually pop the door - so for those that want a manual way to release the door, there you have it, don't resort to screw drivers and such.
Now, I take the release mechanism off and test it with a 12volt battery - works fine. OK, so test the power going to the trunk - 4.4 volts, hmmm? I then check the switch itself and the leads going in are 4.6 volts, again.
So the questions are these:
1. What voltage should I be getting to the switch?
2. Is there a fuse associated with this switch?
3. Where does the voltage originate from?
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Remote will pop the lock up or down but cant open the door. Tried the keyhole with the same result. Cant open the the door from the inside either. Whats wrong?
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Lots of SAFETY concerns . At 927am Feb 15, 2105 while driving at 100 kph on the highway (25 min) my drivers door opened to the safety stop by itself!
While driving and turning the corner my radio occasionally changes radio stations and sometimes goes to MAX volume! You cannot turn it down or off!
Drives door whistles at 70kph took it to dealer 6 times no solution!
My 6 month old Passat TDI Highline is possessed!
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Ok, wifey went to pull out of garage the other day (Tues.) and after putting car in gear, boom it went dead. She started it again and after 2 seconds of sputtering boom dead again. Tried it when I got home and spun over fine, but no fire. screamed fuel pump to me, but I did all the little things first, Fuses #7 and #26 or 28 or something like that, both were good. So I proceeded to check voltage at the pump (It is NOT under the back seat as alot of people told me..) it is under the passengers side mat in the back.
I checked the voltages when my wife was cranking the engine and it was 12.5 volts. When the key is just "on" the volts were 3.5... I went ahead and pulled the pump, not hard - just I had never done it / pumped 12 gallons of gas out.... Tested the pump connected straight to a battery with jumpers (6'+), and nada the pump didn't do any thing. reversed the polarity and it clicked, reversed it again and clicked again, after the 4th time it went to buzzing. I put it back in and nada.
Pump would work sometimes when it was laying on its side. Good enough for me, new pump ordered. New pump installed and cranked it over, nada. Cranked it over again and sputter sputter - vrooooom! Yea! fixed. Well sorta... Read on. Car started up immediately after shutting it off when testing - turned car over to wifey (after flushing brakes and replacing front pads with those niffty green ones...)
OK here is the point to this diatribe: Car's fuel pump isn't firing with the switch "on". it is pumping when the key is switched to "start", and it runs when the car is started. So you have to crank the engine to "prime" the fuel rail. The second time you crank it, it fires right up. Car accelerates well after started but the double cranking cannot be good on the engine's starter. The fuel drain happens sometime after the car has sat for 15+ minutes. If you shut the car off, then wait up to 15 minutes (all I have had time to sit still and check) the car will fire right off. I just don't know what to check now. Could the relay be bad?
I do not hear any humming from the back when the door is opened. What triggers the pump when the door is opened the CCM? It didn't do this before the car quit, always started with a second or two of cranking...
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Noticed a noise that begins upon opening the passenger door? It lasts for about ten seconds then stops. Is it by chance a battery ventilation fan or something related? Just curious.
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So lately I have noticed that my front doors have quite a bit of noise in them when opening and closing. I went to the store and purchased some grease it toned it down a little but the noise it still there. I know the noise is coming the bar that goes inside the door. Is there some that keep the door quiet? My door are not bent at all.
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I know there's a normal humming/buzzing that occurs when you open the driver's door after the car has been sitting for a while (fuel pump/starter/something -- apparently allows the car to start easily?). I realize that's normal. But I've noticed that over the last few days I'm now getting what sounds like a loud clack (almost as if the seat belt buckle is hitting some other piece of metal). It only happens in conjunction with the humming/buzzing after the car has been sitting for a while. What it might be? I'm trying to avoid going in for service until my 5k or until something major happens. I have a lot of these will come back, "No problem found", so I'd rather not waste my time.
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I've had my 2014 Prius II for about a month now and am really happy with the car. I do however have a question. Every time I go the garage and open the driver's door to get in the car, I hear a servo-like noise under the hood lasting for a few seconds. probably 5-6.
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2006 Solara. When opening driver side door it makes a very loud clicking noise at the 1st and also at the 2nd stop. Same thing when closing the door.
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Just picked up a 2001 GLX wagon and it is something my 93 did -- when opening the sunroof all the way, it makes a "popping" noise. With my last car, it was from something that snapped rendering it useless.
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i have a problem with my passat.everything was perfect with my alarm and my doors.
one time i went to my car, start my engine, and then this BEEP BEEP BEEP was the whole time, and first i didn't know what that is. and then i turned on my headlight on and the notice god more and it did BEEEEEEEEEEP. the light inside my car did not turn off. after few minutes looking around, i recognized that my car things that i didn't closed my door, but i did. and my alarm doesn't work too, because it things my door is not closed, and it doesn't want to lock it!! what should i do? My car things that my car is open the whole time.
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