2012 Passat with only 6k miles. I have surface rust on center wheel hub area. Is this normal or should I paint it or is this a warranty issue?
I have it on 3 of the wheels..
On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
View 14 RepliesTonight I went out to get something out of my car, I had not driven the car in about 5 hrs. As I opened the back driver side door, I noticed a noise coming from the wheel well area. It was a quiet noise almost like a very quiet motor running, but it was very prevalent. I went to the passenger side back wheel and could hear it there also. I've never heard anything like this. Opened the trunk and listened for the noise but could not hear it there. After a few mins, I started the car and let it run, then shut it off and the noise disappeared. Only thing I could think of was a fuel pump malfunction?? I honestly don't know.
View 11 RepliesI've searched but couldn't find a 6th gen camry running a super low disk type wheel with the specs I want.i'm currently running square g6 wheels (18x9.5 +12)..I'm planning on purchasing a set of super low disk type wheels (18x9.5 +15)Would I have any problems clearing the OEM brakes? And would it be safe to run a 3mm spacer without extended lugs to bring it back to +12 offset?
View 1 RepliesLast summer the CD drive quit: it's impossible to insert a disk in, although drive was empty. I took it to the dealership and they fixed it allegedly by doing some "reset". Now the issue comes back again. Should I demand replacement of the whole radio? I don't like them just keep resetting it.
View 5 RepliesI have a 10 inch lift and 37's on my excursion 2000 7.3l. I need to upgrade the breaks, the tires make it very hard to stop.
View 1 RepliesHappened to go down to garage to get something from pip about 3 hours after charge was complete and noticed loud hum coming from right rear wheel well area.
We had not had any lightning storms, electrical interruptions or anything odd; house is on whole house surge protection, and 240v evse has been working fine.
Hum disappeared when car was booted up in ev for a moment and then turned off. Hasn't come back on in an hour.
Since I got the car i noticed on considerably sharp or normal RIGHT turns my brake fault goes psycho and says service manual yada yada, well my brakes work fine and so does the emergency brake, i also checked to see if i was low on brake fluid, but it was topped off and no noticeable change in fluid level... could this be problems with the brake line?
Its ONLY on RIGHT turns, never goes off on left turns... Its not creating any problems to my driving just distracting and annoying as hell, it goes off roughly 3-4 times I am driving (depending on how far I drive) ...
My car is pulling to one right slightly so I did the alignment. But it didnt eliminate the problem. Ｉ jacked up my car and try to rotate the front wheel. I can hear slight noise of the caliper rubbing the disk and the wheel does not spin freely if I stopped rotating it. However, the noise is subtle so I don't know if it is by design or I have a brake drag.
View 7 RepliesMy front disks are pulsing & the thickness is near minimum, so I guess I'll have to replace them soon. Is any particular brand better than others?
These stock ones are made by Bosch and I'm not impressed with their lack of resistance to warpage. I see "Drilled and Slotted" available at Rockauto. What's your experience? Are they any good?
2000 Passat Wagon, 4-motion, 116,000 miles. I have a clunk/rattle in the front right wheel, and the clunk manifests itself when I roll over a bump. I don't get the same noise from the left side.
For example, turning right into a parking lot and rolling over the curb creates a clunk that I do not hear from the left side. Rolling over a manhole cover - clunk.
I've had it in for several other non-related service visits, and have asked the tech's to diagnose. Most recently, I got sold a new steering rack to resolve the issue, but it did not.
Again - I just replaced the steering rack. The techs have eliminated ball-joints and control arms as the source.
I have a '79 F150 4wd and was wondering what would indicate a caliper needing replacement. I'm already going to replace everything on my rear brakes, they are completely trashed. However, the fronts seem OK, NO indications of leaks or seizing both sides of the rotors appear to be evenly "used" I guess. The inner pads do seem to be thicker than the outer pads is this normal? Anything I should be specifically looking for before I have the rotors turned and put a new set of pads on?
View 5 RepliesMy MY2012 Passat 2.5 SE currently at 37k miles all of a sudden is showing clear coat peeling near the trunk/rear panel area. Car is a CPO and clean carfax (no accidents) and currently still under warranty. Planning on taking it back to the dealership and hopefully start a case for warranty work under VWoA.
I've never encountered clearcoat failure this early on, case in point my B5 (MY1999) still has excellent clear coat uniformity despite the paint/body being 17+ years old.
After driving our 2013 Passat for 215 miles, we noticed that there was a rattling noise coming from the left front wheel area but only at slow speeds (under 10 mph). The noise disappeared at higher speeds. Today, we took the car to the dealership but they could not find anything wrong.
View 4 RepliesI recently started getting a light tapping noise coming from the front passenger side tire wheel area. It almost sound like a nail stuck in the tire, but lighter in sound and there is nothing stuck in the tire........
Here's the kicker: It only happens when I turn LEFT!!!! I checked and there is nothing obvious that sticks out to touch the tire when it turns...
I have a 1999 Chevy Venture van. It is running great except for this squeaking noise. When you turn and hit a dip it squeaks like a tricycle with a rusted wheel. It also does this when slowing down or just moving through a bumpy parking lot. It has done this also on a smooth surface just stopping at a red light. The shocks seem fine because the van drives very, very smooth.
I took it o my mechanic and he greased some bushings, and said that should fix it. Well it didn't. I have parked the van, and then stood outside of it, and rocked it side to side, and front to back, and can never hear it. It is coming from the front of the vehicle for sure. What could it be?
I've read that a scan tool is required to bleed the ABS unit. A brake line has rusted out on the vehicle which I can replace, though not looking forward to it. The ABS unit is disabled by pulling the fuse. Do I still need to have a tech bleed the abs system? Of course I will bleed all four lines at the wheel cylinders and calipers.
View 2 RepliesFound out my 2007 Hyundai Sonata V6 GLS needs a new brake line put in. The line rusted and all brake fluid leaked out. I am very surprised that after 7 years and only 103,000 km (about 65,000 miles) the car will need a new brake line put in already. All my other cars have been Japanese and have never experienced premature failure and replacement of brake lines.
Granted, I live in Toronto, Ontario, and this year has been a cold start to winter with lots of aggressive salting. It started to get a little bit warmer the last 2 days which probably accelerated the corrosion from the salt.
Just have a quick question. I am replacing some rusted brake lines near the gas tank. I already have the rusted ones cut out. I want to know if this junction box is really needed. If not it would sure take out alot of bending the lines. It looks like the line only come down the frame and bolt into the block and then straight out to the rear wheels.
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I have 2012 sonata and she has about 43000 miles. I replaced 4 tires at 40000 miles. Soon after, steering wheel used to shake when I apply brake. So, I got front rotors resurfaced and got new front brake pads which solved the problem of steering wheel shaking. I also got alignment right after installing brake pad.
Since last week, I realized there is a vibration coming from front of my car when driving over 30 mph to about 70 mph.The vibration is present randomly and weird thing is that the vibration stops immediately when I apply brake. What may cause this problem?
When I lost the rear brakes due to a rusted line, naturally the ABS light came on. Will it automatically reset when everything is repaired and working or is there something else that needs to be done?
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