Passat (B7) :: 2012 - Trunk Button On Door Not Working
Nov 6, 2013
I have had my '12 S for two weeks and love the car. I am just starting to figure out the car and what I want to update/upgrade. But the button on the driver's door isn't working. Before I take it to the dealer, for fear of looking stupid if the fix is simple, is there a fuse I should check or something else I'm missing that would prevent the button from opening the trunk? The fob works and if I use the handle on the truck it opens fine. If there is a fuse I should check?
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I just bought a 2012 toyota camry se with smart key. The trunk button on the remote opens the trunk, but the smart key button on the trunk lid does not open the trunk. I found a brown module unplugged the the left of the seat release handles in the trunk, I checked the wiring to the switch on the trunk lid.
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I just noticed today that the trunk release button in the driver side door doesn't do anything. Does it suppose to pop the trunk or glass? Just wondering!!
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Mk IV Jetta. Central locking works fine. All other CCM functions are fine. Replaced CCM recently serial numbers match. When I hit the switch on the door nothing at all happens. When I use the key button the lights flash twice but no other activity. No broken wires between the body and the trunk lid. Actuator works when tested with a 9v battery.
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I have 2007 mica LS, the key fob and trunk button on dash stopped working the trunk. The button inside the trunk will close it but i have to use the key to open it. I have taken battery post off and checked fuses, but not sure if I checked the correct one.
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The button you press to automatically close the trunk on the rear of the car isn't working. When you press it, it just beeps and does nothing.
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I heard a humming (motor) sound coming from my trunk area today. Car was off since previous evening. Sounded like maybe electric fuel pump? It stopped when I pressed smart key button and is not doing it now, but......
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I have a 2008 Passat Komfort. About 2 weeks ago I went to open the trunk and nothing happened. Tried using the button next to the gas door open and still nothing, remote doesn't work, button doesn't work neither does pushing the emblem. I have tried both sets of keys and nothing.
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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So on my 2001 passat v6 the trunk wont open with the switch on the driver door for some reason and it seems the previous owner wanted to fix it and instead messed up and now the rear driver side door wont open even when its "unlocked".
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I am the new owner of a 2015 ES350 and I've found that my trunk can be opened using the button under the trunk lip even when I don't have the key fob in my possession (my 2014 Dodge Charger does the same thing). How to prevent anybody without the key fob in their possession from accessing my trunk?
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Trunk release switch on drivers door does not open trunk. Remote and key will open trunk. Sounds like a motor is trying to close the trunk when it is being closed, but does not pull it shut ?
1. I did pull on the switch
2. Gas door switch works fine
3. It is a standard trunk (not powered)
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I picked up a 2012 SEL w/ RNS-510 today and the steering wheel voice button doesn't work. It's basically a golf inside and the Tiguan forum is slow so I'll ask here. I checked it with vcds and its coded for voice command to work. Did the 2012's cone with a harness for voice command or do I need to add the wires to the harness? My rns-510 is a version F and the service records show that the original was replaced under warranty. It's running software 3690 but I'm installing 4366 in the morning. Does 3690 disable voice command? I know it works with 4366. I'd mess with it tonight, but I drove 500 miles each way to get it so I'm ready for bed.
When I press the star button on the rns-510 the annoying voice says, "route guidance is not available".
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I was having battery issues and had a friend hook up a battery charger to my car today. They pulled some relays to see if they could figure out why it was starting right. When I left for work the car started fine but I notice my windows would not roll down at all. I figured no biggie I would deal with it tomorrow.
When I got to work I realized my key fob had stopped working too. Again, I have a key will unlock it after work and deal with it later. After work tonight, I go to the car, I tried the key fob and nothing. No surprise. But I unlocked the driver door and it won't open, try to unlock the trunk it won't open.
I was told they pulled the relays and reseated them when messing with the battery. I can see a red light flashing below the radio. To top it off the keys to my other car are locked in the trunk along with my purse!
2002 Jetta Turbo 1.8....
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As some of you may be aware, I swapped out my OEM HU recently for an aftermarket one -- I show it in post 486 here -- and for various reasons, I decided to go back to stock. I got a pair of 70-1761 & 71-1761 wiring harnesses (because I have a 4-channel aftermarket amplifier) and in a lapse of judgement I tapped the dimming wire into the illumination wire.
Later that night, I noticed when driving with my headlights or parking lights on, the center console buttons don't light up. Specifically, the radio, home & other buttons don't light up and all & the climate control dial knobs are very dim. The ventilation buttons buttons of the HVAC all light up fine & my hazard & passenger seat belt light up fine.
I already check the instrument cluster dash light control & I notice the dial knobs react to it but are still very dim. The brightness of the instrument cluster doesn't match their brightness at all.
I went ahead an looked at my fuse box under the steering wheel column and checked the 10 amp PANEL fuse & it's not blown. For good measure, I swapped it out but the buttons still don't light up. I then checked EVERY fuse under the steering wheel column & non are blown.
In addition to that, I checked every 10 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box & non of them are blown.
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Last week out of the blue, the lock/unlock button the driver's side door stopped working altogether. It's not stuck, as I can definitely feel it click when pressed. Also, the passenger side button works just fine. This is very annoying after spending a year without ever having to use the actual key fob.
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Packed my car with luggage in the trunk got to my destination and I can't get the trunk open. From the trunk itself to the release on the door to the button on the remote nothing will open it. I am screwed because I really need to open this trunk and no VW dealers are open.
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Got an interesting electrical issue on my 2004. I'm not sure if the issues are related but they happened at the same time. About a week ago the nav door stopped closing and the seat memory buttons stopped working. When you press the close button the nav screen moves back but the door never closes. The seat memory buttons on the door don't work either but the seat adjustment controls do work. When adjusting the seat position, as the seat moves moves, you hear beeping. It sounds like the same beep that you hear when memorizing a seat position. I checked and tested all the fuses they seem to be good.
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I recently purchased a 2009 Honda Civic EX. I also have a 2012 Honda CRV, and I'd like to set the key fob/car behavior like the CRV, in that when I click the unlock button, all doors open, instead of the 'classic' behavior one click drivers-side, two clicks both sides - is there a way to set this up ?
Also, I used to have a 2005 Honda Accord, and it had a neat option/behavior - hold down the unlock button after unlocking the car, and the driver and passenger side windows go down - pretty handy when you've parked the car during a hot day - can program that into the key fob/car ?
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I own a 2012 Passat SE, this is the situation-
1) The trunk will unlock when I use the key or the interior switch.
2) The trunk will not "pop" open intermittently.
However they deal primarily with stuck trunk doors; mine is not stuck. It just won't pop open all the time.
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So, I took my 2012 SEL in for a number of issues - one of which was a "clunking" sound in the trunk lid. Dealer had me come pick the car up, letting me know they fixed all the issues and found the source of the noise. Turns out it was a small rubber block that looks to be a sort of spacer/sound deadener, but the dealer has no clue where they go. There were two (2) of these little bastards rolling around in there, and I really want to put them where they belong...but I dont know where they go...
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