Passat (B7) :: 2012 - Precautions For Engine Washing?
Jan 8, 2016
Thinking of washing the engine bay of my 2012 3.6 Passat for the first time.
Usually, I cover the brake fluid reservoir, the power steering reserv., the alternator and the dip sticks before I spray Gunk Gone (or something similar), leave for sereral minutes and then hose the engine down.
This will be the first time I am doing the Passat. What do you folks do as a precautionary prep to wash the engine? Is there something called the clutch peep hole that I need to make sure is properly plugged?
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I just washed my engine with degreaser and made the engine look like new and I went to start my car and it sounds like there's water in the engine it giggles and when you press the pedal you get little response I tried to drive and had to rip on the rpm to get it to move what could this possibly be?
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I usually washed my previous car's engine compartments with a hand nozzle at a coin-op car wash. I would do it a couple times a year so dust and grease never built up to the point of ever needing deep degreasing.
I looked at the engine compartment of the GENIII Prius and see that there seem to be a lot of exposed orange (high voltage?) wires that would be better off covered with some kind of plastic engine cover near the driver's side. It looks naked and some of the orange wires look like they have bare wires exposed on the outside of the tubing where it connects with clamps nearer to the front of the car. I thought my car must be missing the engine cover, but I found pics online that are the same.
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In my 2003 3.5 awd I successfully got my used transmission in and running great. I made the mistake of washing the engine. Now, it runs like Cr@p. It pops and sputters. At one point the CEL came on with 7 codes mostly misfires. It ran ok prior to the bath but I am getting ready to do the timing belt and wp and plug wires. In the meantime, whats the most likely cause of misfires after a hosing down on these engines? I'm leaning towards plug wires or coils...
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Up until yesterday, my 1995 Convertible GT ran perfect. The power steering pump has a leak and the foamed fluid overflowed. I replaced the fluid and cleaned out the engine bay where the spill was. I used a little soap, and rinsed it with some water.
Since then, the battery drains in about 60 seconds. I can shut off, and immediately start the car back up. If the car sits for more than a minute, I just get clicking. Starter doesn't even turn over. I can jump the car to get her running.
I've taken all the wire harnesses and electrical connections apart on that side of the engine bay and cleaned them with electrical contact/wire cleaner. I removed the fender, the lights, the bumper, etc to clean. The battery, alternator, and charging security pass a check at AutoZone. I can run and drive the car without throwing of codes, etc. As soon as I turn off the engine for longer than a minute, it doesn't start.
Not sure what else I can do. I was in the middle of a sale, and now thats gone pending me solving this annoying and time-consuming issue. If I don't figure this out in a few days, I'm calling a yard. I really don't have time to deal with a car I'm trying to get rid of.
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I washed my car yesterday and upon finishing it didn't want to start and the third time it finally did. I then drove about 8 miles and stopped to pick up laundry samething 2x's wouldn't start 3rd time it finally did. Stopped one finally time and it took 8-10 time to get it to start. Now I can't get it started for the anything.
It make the noise like it is trying but not get gas or a spark. I have replace a starter relay becuase 6 months ago it wouldn't even attempt to start and when replaced it started right away till now. I also along the way replaced coil packs due to it missing. I did not spray in the engine compartment just washed the exterior of the car. Like I said it cranks but doesn't start.
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Why my 2016 IS300 makes a alarm noise while i'm washing the outside mirrors?
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It's happened the last two times I've washed the car. I thoroughly cleaned the wheels with Sonax followed by soapy water, then washed the rest of the car. After washing, my usual routine is an initial towel dry, then I take the car for a short drive to shake the excess water out of crevices & the wheels, followed by the final towel dry & detailing.
This is happening on all four wheels. I know my front rotors are nearing their end of life, but the rears should have plenty of life in them (45K miles).
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I have a 2012 Passat 2.0 TDI (140) DSG
Sometimes the engine temperature stays low for an entire drive. Regardless of speed - it has happened while sitting in traffic for hours or while sitting at 70mph.
When this is happening, the engine temperature gauge will go up and down, but never reach 90, and the oil temperature reading fluctuates from around 60 to 80. Also the air into the car doesn't get hot enough, but now we're out of winter that doesn't matter too much.
But then other days it will be 100% fine - it rises up to 90 within 10 minutes of a cold start and stays there the whole day - and the oil temperature sits between 90 and 100.
I've taken it to a couple of VW dealers but obviously it behaves perfectly on those days! I remember reading something about a thermostat that circulates coolant to the DSG box, which can cause these kinds of symptoms?
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The closest car wash is less than two miles from our home and we often bring the GX home directly from the car wash and park it in the garage. We've noticed that the parking brake remains applied when we start the GX the next morning, even though the foot pedal releases. Presumably, the parking brake components were wet from the car wash and enough rust/corrosion forms overnight so that the springs to release the brake can't overcome the 'stiction'.
The GX "squats and grunts" when we put it in gear, but doesn't move. Shifting into reverse solves the problem ... there's a loud 'pop' from the rear of the vehicle as the brake releases, the GX starts to move, but in reverse, which we quickly stop with the service brake, then we shift into forward and drive off ... did I mention that we back into our garage?
I may already have confessed that we are heavy parking brake users ... every time we park the vehicle, even if just temporarily while we step out of the vehicle to get the mail, etc. We use the parking brake so much that the cable stretches and every year our dealership has to re-tension.
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After washing my 08 GX and putting in the garage to wax dry I have found that the next time I get in it to drive-often a day or so later,the car will not move in reverse ( or forward) without me revving it up quite high to overcome the locked up pads on the rotors. Sometimes its even screeches the tires to get in unlocked. I just washed it and letting it sit outside for a bit to see if the sun will dry out the rotors/pads and that would work.
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Currently having a possible 'issue' with my 2012 Passat 3.6. Every time I perform a hard acceleration, or any time the RPM's exceed 4,400, I can hear a whistle that is rpm-based coming from the engine bay. It is quite notable from outside as well, and ONLY occurs when the A/C is ON. Is this something I should be concerned about? I never hear it when hard accelerating without the A/C on. It is a high pitch whistle that increases in pitch the higher RPM's that are reached. Sounds almost exactly like a turbo, but as soon as I change gears in the acceleration, the pitch instantly drops back down but still matching (pitch-wise) rpms in the next gear and continues again.
It's loud enough to hear it in the cabin, but not over, say, 6 of volume on the radio.
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I haven't been able to find a tutorial on how to remove the ECU on a 2012 Passat I tried to search but I didn't see anything there.
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As it just began to warm up, I decided to take a look under the hood to see how the oil's doing. I changed it 3k miles ago in Sept. I was shocked to find that water has found its way into the Oil system - I see sludge (getting that when water mixes with oil) -- What do I do? I've always had the oil changed at the VW dealer. What would cause this?
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My car has rattle on the right side If I push up on the dash it stops-- release the pressure and it returns. Started on rough roads, now almost all the time. Took to my dealer before the 36,000 mile warranty expired and they told me VW doesn't warranty rattles past 12,000 miles. I am afraid fixing it will cause more problems, but it drives me crazy.
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Packed my car with luggage in the trunk got to my destination and I can't get the trunk open. From the trunk itself to the release on the door to the button on the remote nothing will open it. I am screwed because I really need to open this trunk and no VW dealers are open.
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So I am hoping this is an easy fix and I'm just missing something. I have a 2012 VW Passat, automatic transmission. My boyfriend, who knows nothing about VW's decided he was going to 'take care' of my 12v's which don't work, they never have since I bought the car at the end of Nov 2014. I found a penny in one of them, probably someone used that area for their change and it dropped in. Regardless they have never worked. I'm actually taking it in for an oil change the end of the week and planned on having the dealer fix it then since I have a warranty still.
I tried a while back, bought some new fuses, but could never find a definite fuse map for my car and wasn't so worried about it that I wanted to risk causing more problems. Anyway, he decided to check my fuses by pulling every one . Now my car won't shift out of park and the dashboard has the ESC light and the engine MIL light are both on and solid. The tire pressure monitoring system Malfunction light is blinking. Just fyi....I did do a 'soft' restart by unhooking the battery, and checked that the brake lights are working. Not sure that these things are even relevant but I was reading a few things and this is as far as I've got.
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on my dads 2012 TDI, he has about 53K miles on it. one day, suddenly coolant light came on, and the tank was low. Took it to the dealer, they topped if off and said they had no idea. it happened again last Friday, I topped it off with distilled water (had nothing else ATM) and took it to the dealer, they said they did a pressure test and everything is good, no leaks and sent me back.
Today, same thing happened. coolant light came on. Its getting dropped off for the 3rd time, but this time I told them I want answers, not just topping it off.
What could cause this? it seems really odd that a whole tank can empty itself without any visible leaks.
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The car is my wifes DD. 7300mi, 2.5L I5 auto.
For the last few months whenever I walk past the car I could smell a faint coolant smell near the front of the car. My wife couldn't smell it, so I figured I would just ask the dealer about it when I took it in for the 10,000mi service. Yesterday she gets home saying she could smell it so bad, she also noticed the smell seemed to linger in the back seat when she was strapping the kid in his car seat. I checked under the hood and I can not find ANY sort of a leak whatsoever. At this point I'm thinking of taking it in to the dealer sooner to have them check it out.
Noticed a faint coolant smell on their 2.5L?
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This is for 2012 Passat TDI SE
Month or so a go, my TPMS light came on. I checked the tires and they looked ok, and pressure was close to 32 psi which is recommended (pressure sticker on the door jamb). Tried resetting multiple times following the instructions provided in the user manual by pressing the TPMS reset button located in the glove compartment. Light still on. Tried clearing with VAG-COM and no success. Keeps saying check your tires and light is on.
I have read on various posts to pump the tires to 37-40psi. Tried that and no luck. Then I found someone saying on the forums that there is an issue where the TPMS gets some how recoded to 5.5 bar instead of 2.3 bar and that is why the light wont go away. How to recode TPMS to correct value
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I am having a problem with the vehicle. The other day I noticed that the car jerks a little bit when stopped. I was sitting at a red light and had my foot on the brake. While the brake was applied, I let go of the brake but not enough for the car to roll and then reapplied the brake fully. I did this because I though I got the green light and when I realized it was still red, I reapplied the brake. As soon as the brake went all the way I felt a small jerk on the brake pedal.
I immediately noticed it and thought it was weird. It almost felt like I quickly let go of the brake pedal and quickly applied the brake again. I did it again soon after and felt it again, then again, and then again. I made an appointment at the dealer where the vehicle was bought from to have it looked at. I hope they don't think I am nuts only because you have to do it a certain way in order for it to occur (push the pedal all the way, release the brake the slightest amount, apply the brake and then feel the jerk in the pedal). It definitely doesn't seem normal.
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