Passat (B7) :: 2012 - Jerks A Little Bit When Stopped
Jul 17, 2014
I am having a problem with the vehicle. The other day I noticed that the car jerks a little bit when stopped. I was sitting at a red light and had my foot on the brake. While the brake was applied, I let go of the brake but not enough for the car to roll and then reapplied the brake fully. I did this because I though I got the green light and when I realized it was still red, I reapplied the brake. As soon as the brake went all the way I felt a small jerk on the brake pedal.
I immediately noticed it and thought it was weird. It almost felt like I quickly let go of the brake pedal and quickly applied the brake again. I did it again soon after and felt it again, then again, and then again. I made an appointment at the dealer where the vehicle was bought from to have it looked at. I hope they don't think I am nuts only because you have to do it a certain way in order for it to occur (push the pedal all the way, release the brake the slightest amount, apply the brake and then feel the jerk in the pedal). It definitely doesn't seem normal.
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So a few days ago until now I've noticed the transmission jerks as I am driving, like a slight stall and such. Could this mean my transmission is failing, I feel as if the car chokes. My car currently had 8900 miles, all highway driven.
While I was doing some reading, I noticed some people had their ECU resetted. Also my average mpg is 10 mpg on a v4.
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I bought New Camry 2014.5 LE. Most of time, my wife drives for short commutes to train stations and work. Its been 1.5 year and it still has less than $10K miles.
I feel it hesitates when I push the accelerator all the way quickly, then jerks. The engine revs up the moment I step on the accelerator but it hesitates before it actually picks up speed. If I step on the gas gradually, its fine.
I have Rav4 (4 Cyc) which does not behave this way.
I took the dealership and asked about it. The tech says it is drive by wire system so unlike old cars, which respond very quickly, may hesitate and considered normal. Some online article says the car's software learns a driving habit so it depends on the driver too but many other postings also suggest its a software glitch.
Is it really normal, a feature of 6 speed or is there a technical service bulletin addressing this issue so that I can show to the tech? Eco mode is turned off.
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I live in a community with a posted speed limit of 15 mph. I travel a full minute at 15 mph before I exit the community to a city street. My 2013 Accent Hatchback won't "glide" along at 15 mph. It jerks and surges and races and slows down. I've tried using the manual option and keeping it in 1st gear however, when I reach the 1st gear tachometer limit at 15 mph the car "stalls" and the tachometer needle drops out and the car slows to 5 mph.
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I experience a jump or jerk when rolling towards e.g. a stop sign or traffic light, or even in stop-and-go traffic and the transmission shifts down into first gear. The jerk only happens when I stop slowly. If I break fairly hard, this problem does not appear. It even jumps/jerks when I roll down my driveway, breaking slightly. In some cases, I fear that I'll leave the gearbox on the street.
This, of course, does not happen every time, but frequently enough that I asked my VW dealer to take a look at the problem. They changed my spark plugs and said that this may have been the reason
Can not quite make this connection, and of course on my way home the same jump/jerks happen, as on my way to work this morning. I want to take my car back to the dealer, but hopefully with some more insight, since they appear to be clueless.
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My '99 Passat (1.8t) shakes and jerks violently during acceleration. If the terrain is smooth & flat I don't seem to have a problem. The problem gets pretty extreme during acceleration especially if going uphill. Also, it seems as if it really kicks in when the transmission shifts gears. I have replaced the fuel filter, dump valve, & all 5 mounts to include the front snub mount.
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It snowed yesterday. While a good amount of snow was on car I put it in garage with a small heater at 45 degrees ambient temp.
This morning I take the car outside to -10 degree weather and driving down the road I tried to wash the windshield. Wipers did not start. No hum no click no movement. Washer fluid worked tho.
Looking up some info I noticed it could be fuse. Checked fuse. Fuse ok. At a loss here.
Driving again I get a speech through speakers from Torque and the elm327. Missed what it said because of music. So I ran the diagnostic and got the P0688 open circuit. Checked online but nothing definitive as to a fix for this except j271.
Another note worth mentioning. Sometimes when I punch it the car jerks almost like it misfires once or loss of traction. Completely random but maybe its associated with this. Wipers worked yesterday...
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I have a 1999 Passat 1.8t manual transmission... My car shakes like it's going to stall and sometimes actually stalls when I come near to a complete stop. The car drives really bad... it jerks when downshifting and on accelerating... The performance of the car is crap. also When i put the car into neutral and coast to a stop, the revs will bounce up and down. I posted a couple months ago about this problem and I was told to clean the throttle body. I then cleaned my throttle body and replaced the gasket. This problem went away for about 5 days and then was back again. This problem is the worse when I go to school, which is when it's about 45 degrees outside.
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So my trans clicks and jerks every time it downshifts into 2nd but that is the only time it does it. When i down shift using the tip shift it doesn't do anything and it all feels normal. What it could be being that it is just when it downshifts into second.
My car is a 2001 v6 4motion.
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I have a 2003 Passat Wagon, V6, with a little over 80,000 miles that has developed a problem that I have not been able to get fixed: after the engine has warmed up, when driving at under 2000 rpm, the car jerks when light throttle is applied. I could also describe it as a thump or shudder. There is a small blip in the tachometer when it jerks. If I give it enough gas to cause the transmission to shift up, it does not jerk, nor does it do it over 2000 rpm. It recently had it's 80,000 mile service and runs very strong and smoothly when given enough gas.
My dealer couldn't figure what was wrong, and after they consulted with VW decided that I must have put in some bad gas. The problem was to have gone away after 5 or 6 tanks of good gas. After that didn't solve the problem, I went to an independent repair shop. They told me that it couldn't be misfire because there were no codes registered. Their theory is that it is problem with the transmission, whereby with light throttle the transmission is told to shift but then slips right back down, thus the jerkiness. They couldn't offer a solution, however. What to do about it?
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I've had my camry SE special edition model since november of 2015. I have noticed that on a few occasions(less than 10) that when stopped the rpm's drop and it shudders for about 2-4 seconds then the rpm's rise again and its good.
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Issue I have with my 2012 Prius I bought about 9 months ago. The air stopped blowing completely. No hot air blowing, no cold air blowing. It is starting to get warm out now and need some AC. Is it the blower motor under the glove box that has gone out? Seems odd.
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So I have a scion tc 2012 and the A/C no longer works properly. The AC blows lukewarm air (seems to just blow whatever air is outside) when I press the AC button, it doesn't kick on the compressor. The heat works fine. I took it to a shop and they tested the pressure and said it was good. They can plug in a scan tool and make my car blow cold air but it won't work without the scantool, the scantool can kick on the compressor. They checked all fuses and relays. They tried replacing A/C amplifier and they tried replacing (A/C switch?). Now they want to charge my $350 to fix drier and evaporater. If that's not it they want to replace the compressor.
This is getting expensive fast, and they haven't even actually diagnosed the problem! Also the radiator fans don't seem to power on either.
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Last summer, the A/C on our 2012 Ford Escape stopped blowing cold air. We took it to our mechanic (who I trust). They checked for leaks but found none. They did an evacuation and recharge of the system. Cold air started blowing again! Then 2-3 weeks later, my wife says she saw a puff of smoke come out of the vents (not sure if it was smoke or vapor or what). The A/C stopped blowing cold air shortly after that. We took it back to the mechanic. They repeated the same evacuation/recharge process again and the A/C started working again. 2-3 weeks later, we saw the same puff and then no cold air.
That happened last Fall, so we waited until this spring to try again. Just took it back to mechanic. They checked the levels and the pressure was good before they did anything else. No leaks. They did the evacuation/recharge and the air is now blowing cold again. But, I have no reason to think it will last.
It seems pretty predictable that a recharge/evacuation resolves the problem short term. Why it's not lasting? What, if anything, could I try to diagnose? Seems that my mechanic does not know what else to try.
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Turning the fan knob yields no results. The AC compressor does kick in as I can feel it when I turn it on when idling, so the knob appears to work. The blower does not move air.
I checked the fuse below the steering wheel and the fuse makes a complete circuit although the edge looks a bit darkened. Other fuses from working devices look the same and I took a spare 10A fuse from the designated area and inserted into the blower motor fuse location - still nothing.
I will also inspect the relays/fuses in the engine compartment to see if anything in there looks blown that's related to the blower motor. Hopefully it will be something simple, but probably not...
I will need to take it in to get it looked at and fixed, and this is probably not under warranty since vehicle has 56k miles... while I'm there I'll have a transmission fluid exchange done as well and I was planning on getting some body work done.
My bumper was torn off from the fact that it sits low enough that sometimes it would go over the parking stump. Well, it eventually got caught really bad and tore it off. Now the tab where the screw goes to secure the bumper has sheared off so it just hangs. Also, the tearing action from the parking stump caused the inner fender to come off and rub against my tire while driving, tearing it into shreds from the friction.
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I have a Prius PIP. When warmed up after driving several miles, the engine does not shut off when stopped . This happens in the ECO mode. Any solutions?
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Have a 2012 Escape and the first level on my fan stopped working. All other speeds are good to go. Should I replace the blower resistor? If so, can you provide details on replacing?
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My SiriusXM trial ended yesterday. My Nav Traffic stopped working also. Got on the cell phone with SiriusXM to troubleshoot, no luck. Was told call back in 24 hours. Having problems with Nav Traffic?
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I have a 2012 basic PiP, purchased in June 2012. The air conditioner stopped working (no cooling) about a month ago.
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Noticed seat vibrations when fully stopped? My 2013 has a sweet spot where the needle hits *just barely* under 750rpm when stopped at a light or something, where it doesn't vibrate at all. Anything even a smidgen over or under that and the seats and sometimes even the steering wheel vibrate. It's pretty random. One set of lights and I'm vibrating, the next set of lights not far down the road and no vibrations.
Also when I'm idling or stopped and I want to roll a window up or down, the whole car will shake, RPMs will dip a bit too.
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for the last 5 months, i have not been able to use my 2012 sonata which broke down in October last year and has since been in the dealership in Dubai and they have never taken any action. what happened is that the car just stopped when I was driving at normal highway speed. no indication, warning or anything came up. the car just stopped and did not start any more.
when the car got back to the dealership they called me after a few days and told me that my engine block is completely cracked and the whole engine has to be replaced. I don't understand this, the car was only about 16 moths old and has 23,000km on the odometer. the car was always serviced and never driven erratically. until today no one from Hyundai took any stance to the problem
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