Passat (B7) :: 2012 - CEL With P0106 And P0106 PD Codes?
Jan 18, 2015
I am having a problem right now with the check engine light on and P0106 and P0106 PD codes scanned. I bought this 2012 Volkswagen Passat 2.5 S from Hertz Car Sales for less than a month.
When I drove the car back from work on a Tuesday night, January 13, my car was doing fine at first and was suddenly reducing power with check engine light coming out. It was highly congested with massive traffic and cars on the 101 freeway towards Downtown.
I was luckily and safely able to drive the car back to my house. I could not take it to anywhere since it was already 7:30 at night. I decided to let the car sit for a few days until the weekend comes.
However, when I decided to take the car to an auto shop today, the car would not crank and start. Now, I have both check engine light and EPC+Battery light.
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Had CEL light come on with the code P0106 barometric pressure sensor.
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My car is not boosting. I had two codes p0238 and p0106...
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2010 Sonata GL Sport at 122,000 kms (75,800 miles)
Engine Malfunction Light came on solid. Using ODBII reader, my Honda mechanic friend read the codes to be
P0106 Current, Pending, Permanent - Faulty Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
P0304 Pending - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
He replaced MAP sensor and Coil pack. But the Engine Light remains on solid. Now its only giving code P0106 which kind of points back to MAP sensor.
Spark plugs has never been replaced so I've been suggesting to replace it anyways proactively.
Questions:
1. What else may be causing the Engine Light?
2. When do Spark Plugs typically get replaced?
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So, the MAP sensor in my car is going haywire. Interesting effect. Some days it is a bit low on power. Other days, I feel like I need to tackle the 'Ring! I will be replacing it but, it would be nice to have that extra spunk. Should I assume a tune will do this?
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Installed hid and relay kit yesterday...after reconnecting the battery the check engine light came on the dtc that was pulled was p0106 for the MAP sensor... i had it cleared and it keeps coming back... The car still runs fine just seems as if it idling low...
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VW Jetta SE 2.5L... Took my car to the dealer for a check engine light, the code came back P0106 which states I need my throttle valve cleaned and the dealer also said I need my brake vacuum pump replaced.. Do these go hand in hand? How should I proceed with the dealer? I have only 60,000 miles on my vehicle was there a recall on this issue? The dealer already updated the software in the technical bulletin.
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Trying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
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Ok had a check engine light. It directed me to replace the IAT sensor.. After some research I found it was integrated into the MAP sensor. Purchased a new sensor and replaced. Drive about 15 miles CEL throws another code. P0106 (sensor i just replaced) faulty Map sensor.
Followed procedure to replace sensor.. unhook battery cable reset ecm. After reset engine is hard to start. Followed by RPM changes (assuming its the ECM re-adjusting). Then CEL flashes 5-6 times and goes out, Drive 15 miles. Map sensor code reappears. (note i only purchased one sensor But repeated install 2 times).
My thought is against wiring. since the codes refer to different signal wires one for IAT one for MAP sensor. Faulty replacement sensor?
2002 Accent 1.6L
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I just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
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2013 PiP w/ 39,760 miles (oops, edited miles 6/29). 90ยบ day this afternoon and for the first time ever it blew hot air.
- No codes via OBDii reader.
- Sight glass is completely clear, clean and empty. No apparent liquid present with A/C on or off.
I think the compressor runs of an electric motor, not the front drive pulley.
Is there supposed to be a serpentine belt on the crank pulley (there is none)?
Screen on OBD ii does not light up AC in monitor area, so I guess it does not have monitor refrigeration.
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Check engine light came ON yesterday and I got a diagnosis at Autozone. These are the codes that came up.
P0456 - EVAP Emission System Leak (very small)
P0326 - Knock Sensor 1 Range/Performance Bank
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2012 Volkswagen Jetta GLI (CBFA engine, 6 speed manual)
So I replaced my clutch earlier today, everything went smooth. Fired up the ride drove it around the block a few times to make sure everything was good. Everything cleared after about 5 minutes no problem. Shut the car off, cleaned up and maybe 20 or 30 minutes later I turned the car on again and there was a CEL and it was pulling those two codes.
The first one is P025c, something to do with low circuit to the Fuel Pump.
The second one is P0238, says "surge to the Turbocharger".
I tried clearing the codes letting the car sit and seeing if that work. Nothing happened.
I'm lost on both of these, I did some reading on some of the Vortex forums, but everybody in that was able to just clear out the P025c and every thread regarding the P0238 was a dead end. Maybe a sensor I bumped? I tried making sure everything was plugged in that was relevant to what I worked on. I missed one of the MAF sensors, I plugged that in and that didn't clear anything.
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Driving car today and the engine light came on, so before going home I stopped at local garage and had it checked. this is what they got- first code P1445, second code P1000. Car is a 2012 Hyundai Accent automatic hatchback with approx. 40,000 km. (25,000 miles) bought in May of 2012.
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Edit (3/2/13): Problem identified. The timer was incorrectly and inadvertently set, so charging wouldn't start. See this post below.
Three times in the past two weeks, my PiP has refused to take a charge. It happened twice on Chargepoint chargers. The second time, I plugged in and the charger displayed "Vehicle refused charge" or something similar. Tried 10 times with the same result. Then it charged fine at home, and on 240v the next day.
This morning, it won't charge at home on 110. Plug in, the brick clicks, it draws about 200 ma for a couple of seconds, and then zero. Totally repeatable.
No fault codes on Torque. The dealer had it earlier this week and couldn't make it happen or see any fault codes either. The first time it happened the charging cable was off the ground, so I suspected a bent pin, but they all look fine.
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2012 v five with 56,500 miles. Getting onto an on ramp and accelerating when car jolted and dramatic power loss. I posted a thread about my car "ticking" as I slowed down from 30mph and I am wondering if this was related. I had no choice but to drive it home and kept car under 45 mostly on side streets. Car is not assisted at all by electric motor and can barely go up hills. With windows open and attention to any unusual sound i noticed no more ticking when slowing down from 25 to zero.... I think its covered under warranty at least powertrain, hopefully. I know a few of you here have the ticking problem to so i will update if this is related after i bring it in for service.
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So mad today. Check engine light came on, plugged in my scanner, got P0441 EVAP Emission Control system Purge Flow Fault and P0455 EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large).
8-month old '13 TCH XLE is getting a check engine light already.
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Where to go at this point. I've had like three different shops tell me my cel is throwing no code. I have reset the battery, the gas lid is shut tight. Just a regular stock 99 passat 1.8t with 177k on it.
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Can dealership diagnostic tools read ABS/ASR fault codes, or if those codes are even stored?
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I just got a 2000 V6 Passat Wagon. The CEL light was on when I got it though I bought it knowing this. The battery was bad when I got it and I replaced it. After installing the new battery . . .. . starting worked only intermittently. It got worse and at one point I had to hold the key to the start position for about 5 seconds before the starter would even engage. Now it won't start at all. I pulled the codes (shown below) when I first got it but did not give it much credence . . . I wanted to clear the codes and drive it and re-look at the codes. . . . but I have not been able to drive it.
Other observances. . .. not sure if they are related to the car not starting:
Windows, sunroof do not roll up/down while electronic locks work. The driver side window was down when I got it and I read somewhere on this forum to use the key to raise it. . .. it worked. Alarm does not work. Radio works. . . . I found it odd that though the battery was taken out for more than 12 hrs. . . . The radio code was not required. Dome light works intermittently.
I have checked every fuse and they are all good.
Engine Codes:
18032P1624MIL Request Sign.active
18011P1603Internal Control Module Malfunction
18010P1602Power Supply (B+) Terminal 30 Low Voltage
16684P0300Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
16690P0306Cyl.6 Misfire Detected
16686P0302Cyl.2 Misfire Detected
Transmission Codes:
17142P0758Shift Solenoid B Electrical
18158P1750Power Supply Voltage Low Voltage
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Driving home car started sputtering like crazy. vag com'd it and this is what i got from the scan!
Friday,06,April,2012,16:16:02:36785
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.2 (x64)
Data version: 20120126
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Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 72
[Code] ....
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