Passat (B7) :: 2012 - Brakes Grip Won't Catching Rotors While Stopping?
Nov 24, 2013
So, got the 20 K miles service done last month on my 2012 Passat.
Recently I noticed that when I press the brake pedal to slow down, it seems to work fine. The brakes "catch" the rotors, there is a clear "grip" to the rotors and the car responds pretty fast to start slowing down. However, when I did a brake check to stop the car, I notice that when I press the brakes hard, they don't "grip" the rotors as hard as I would expect past that initial grip instance. Seems like their grip is not "catching" the rotors. As a comparison, my other car (6-cy, disc brakes front and rear) does maintain that grip. Am I missing something in this? Is the behaviour of the Passat's brakes expected?
How often does VW do break flushed based on their service schedule?
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My 2004 Passat is less than three years old and the front and back brakes & rotors have been replaced at least four times.
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I've got a '12 GTI (bought 10/1/12) with just over 20k miles on it. Everything on the car is stock and original - pads, rotors, calipers - and the brake fluid hasn't been flushed yet. The last few months I've noticed an increasing sponginess to the brakes, the pedal taking longer to depress before I feel significant stopping.
Pads and rotors still look good. Fluid level's normal. At best it feels like maybe some air pockets might've worked into the fluid lines. At worst it feels like maybe a leaky master cylinder. I'm wondering if it's a common problem.
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I was going to replace rotors and pads. found the calipers seized. took them apart, cleaned and regreased. Pads were fine. Problem is that both front brakes don't grip rotor. Back brakes work fine...
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I have a 2012 Passat which has brake rotors starting to pulsate. I took the brakes off today to go have them turned and I realized that the rotor will not come off until I remove the center bolt holding it on. I tried to get it off tonight and felt like I was going to break my socket and it did not budge. It is a size 23, 12-point bolt.
Here are my questions?
1. I assume that bolt needs to come out?
2. Is it a traditional threaded bolt (not reversed). Left to loosen?
3. How tight should it be? I want to try a breaker bar, but I don't want to strip it or break anything.
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We bought the car this past summer. Notice steering wheel vibration during braking. Figured rotors were warped. Which they were. Replaced all 4 rotors and pads. Now I notice that when I brake at a stop light or sign, it feels like the brakes are catching and slipping. Jerking movement. Like you are pumping the brakes slightly. Brake pedal seems slightly mushy too. Maybe air in brake lines?
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2011 GTI (65k miles). Selective brakes intermittently engaging when grip is adequate. Only happens at speed (>50 mph) when turning, most often with change in pitch (uphill/downhill). Traction light flashes. Happens when ESP on or off, wet or dry. Plenty of tread on (snow) tires. Mild bearing noise has persisted for >20k miles. Two dealers and one third-party shop couldn't find anything wrong, including with bearings. No stored faults.
My suspicion: slow (non-critical) bearing failure causing bad ABS sensor signal/fault, causing ABS/ESP engagement, especially with change in pitch. Related but simpler: ABS sensor failure or bad connection. Pulling fuses?
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I've relocated back to Texas, and I've noticed since the roads here are much older than the streets in Vegas, if I'm braking while going over a bump in the road my brakes seem to slip and re-grip while coming to a stop. It doesn't happen every day but it happens enough to make my heart skip a beat and think I'm about to die
I do plan on taking this to the dealership because it is pretty big problem, I have a 2013 Limited Elantra
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I installed a set of Brake Performance rotors ( slotted ) with premium ceramic pads and have had a bit of strange stuff going on from day one. When I first got them installed there would be a mild grinding or rough feeling when stopping. It got better over the first couple of day but was still there. I also notice a loud whirling or humming noise when I stop from high speeds. I called brake performance and they saids that it may be that the ceramic pad is to hard for the system. It sounded a little odd. The weather in AZ finally hit 77 yesterday so I have been driving with the windows down and have been noticing more of the grinding sound even when the brakes are not pressed.
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Here's my problem, when I'm on a hill and I engage first and let go of the clutch the car revs but the clutch doesn't grip tight. It's slow to engage but during regular driving my clutch is fine. My only problem is on hills.
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My 2.8 v6 2000 has been acting wierd when shifting it kind of feels like the clutch is slipping its through acceleration so when the rpm's are climbing it feels like it is slipping but than above 3 rpms it accelerates with no problem, when it feels like it is slipping the check engine light blinks, obviously telling you to stop driving, but than the check engine light goes back to a solid warning and stops blinking. just had my oil changed and after that my check engine light came on solid, now it is sluggishly bumpy when accelerating and feels like the clutch is not catching,Wish i knew what it could be.
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I've been in some version of a Volvo since I inherited my parents brick-colored sedan in high school. It was a tank, ran forever and kept me safe and protected. Years later I bought a new black Volvo sedan. In 2006 with a hubby and two kids, I decided that I could graduate to the SUV. Feeling like I'd made a fantastically safe and practical decision, I drive my silver XC90 to work and on road trips. It's not the fanciest nor sexiest vehicle, but I feel my family is safe.
Hard working folks should not have huge budget surprises like my Volvo SUV has turned into. Little did I know what I was getting myself into when I made this purchase. When I took it into the Culver City dealer for my 30,000 mile service yesterday, I found out that my Volvo XC90 needed it's second replacement rotors and brake pads. I'd already been through this expense at 17,000 miles, much to my surprise. I'd never heard of needing to replace brake pads and rotors at 17,000.
Now, at 30,000 miles the local dealer's service department told me I needed another set at a cost of $1,000.
I have friends driving a Toyota or a Honda that rarely require maintenance or repairs. Volvo is an expensive vehicle to buy and it gets you every time you visit the service department and all repairs are expensive. It's disappointing to say the least.
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When I 1st brought the car the original brakes and rotors squeak, I really didn't mind bcuz I had plans on changing them, now I installed the aftermarket slot/drilled rotors with new ceramic brake pads, and I still get squeaking from the front brakes, weather it's wet or dry, cold or warm they squeak, what I can do to stop this?
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When I am going between 55+ mph my car starts to shake when I use my brakes. The mechanic at the Mazda dealership told me that the brake rotors are warped and need replacing. I asked the mechanic how this happened when I have such low mileage on the car. He said that the rotors would warp if they overheated which could happen if I brake going downhill, doing a lot of city driving, or if carrying a heavy load.
My car has only about 11,600 miles on it. Monday-Friday I drive 5 miles to work each way. On weekends I drive about 50 miles on the highway. I do not ride the brakes and I can only think of two times in the 2 years I have had the car that I have had to slam the brakes on hard. Clearly, most of the brake use is during my drive to work, but that is only 5 miles one way.
I explained that I do not carry heavy loads since I normally drive by myself and maybe a dog or two. I also explained that the other situations he posted of braking when going downhill or doing a lot of city driving sound like normal driving situations, and not anything that should cause rotors to warp? The mechanic said that he could only tell me what would cause my rotors to warp and that how I drive is "on me".... grrrr. Not happy with that response at all.
I bought an extended warranty when I bought the car new and was at this time told that because the rotors are warped, as opposed to cracked, they aren't covered by the extended warranty because warping is considered a result of routine use. The repair is also not covered because I am over 12 months on the normal warranty.
Does this scenario sound right in a car with this mileage? Could I possibly have warped the rotors during a 5-mile commute to work? If so, what do I need to do to prevent this from happening again, because I am not willing to pay $350+ every 12,000 miles to replace rotors? I have been driving for over 40 years and have never run into this problem before. This is my first Mazda though, and it very well may be my last.
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Having issues with the brakes locking to the rotors after washing the vehicle? I washed it on Saturday afternoon, pulled it back into the garage and it sat there until Monday morning.
I back the vehicle into the garage, always. I started it up, put it in D and usually it will want to lurch forward if I don't hold the brakes firmly. Not today. I could not get the thing to budge. I sat there for a few seconds to make sure the parking brake was not on. It was not, as I never use that. My garage floor is the slippery concrete, plus with the tire shine that I applied, the wheels were just spinning.
After I managed to get the vehicle halfway out, I put it in reverse...that worked no problem. I put it back in drive and had no issues after that. Do I need to have the vehicle looked at? It only has 5,400 miles, and it was just in last week for the 5K mile service.
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My brakes sometimes feel like the rotors are warped. The problem is that it isn't consistent. I remember how the original rotors warped and they were crap so I put some drilled and slotted rotors on about 150,000 miles ago. Currently but not all of the time it acts like the current rotors are warped, the steering wheel will move back and forth, feel the shake in the vehicle. But today running a few errands at lunch, there was no wobble etc. I might go ahead and replace the rotors/pads but want to be sure that is the issue. Could it be the hydroboost on the 7.3? ABS?
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2004 F150 XLT, 5.4, 69,000miles.
I took my truck into Brake Check because my brakes were squeaking and the rotor needed to be worked on, when I slowed down the truck would slow down smoothly....it felt like I was pressing hard then releasing etc. I knew it needed new pads etc.
Well, they replaced the Pads, and did Rotor Reface on all 4. They recommended getting the Calipers Maintenance (front 2 wheels). They wanted $800 for new rotors too (in addition). I told them no.
Fast forward around 6 months. Truck was braking great, no squeaks etc for about 4 months. Then I begin noticing huge amounts of brake dust on my wheels. Might be normal not sure.
2 months later, but truck now squeaks again while braking. And when I'm going slow, I like in a parking garage I can hear this clicking noise while I'm on the brake. CLICK.....CLICK.....CLICK....CLICK.
If you coudn't tell, I don't know much about my truck. I'm trying to learn.
Well, whenever I slow down from ~50mph, my truck vibrates like nothing I've ever seen before. My windshield wipers are bouncing around it's so bad.
I took it to a Ford Dealership to get the works done, where they rotate the tires and change the oil etc, and inspect the brakes. The guy said the rotors need to be machined.
That's not normal right? I don't drive a lot. I don't ride the brakes, I haven't had to brake hard. 6 months from the work I've had done from Brake Check, and the rotors are bad again?
I'm just going to pay Ford to fix this issue and not go back to brake check because that means I'd have to drive 3hrs. I'm curious though, shouldn't their work on the rotor still be good.....not causing them to be worked on again?! I like my truck a lot, the brakes are just pissing me off. My last truck, a 2002 ford...I had till last winter till someone rear ended my truck totaling it, I never had to do any brake work on that thing.
I got suckered into buying the extended warranty for my truck, and it says it covers the calipers.
I'm taking it into a different ford dealership that is in my town next week, and was curious if any of you had some insight on my brake situation.
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I recently had rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2007 Camry (front pads/rotors and read pads/rotors).
It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?
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I took my 2010 Sonata GLS (86K miles) into the shop last Thursday for an alignment and new front brakes since the old ones were on the wear indicators and doing some squealing/squeaking on soft left turns. Got a call from the mechanic who said the rotors were also shot, so I had them replaced as well.
On my normal commute on Monday and Tuesday this week (approx 10 miles, 95% highway), I noticed that when the car was moving at 15mph or less in a straight line both front wheels were making a noticeable high-pitched squeal/squeak, which went away with increased speed and when braking. I figured it might be a break-in issue but when it hadn't improved by yesterday I made an appointment to have the car checked out by the mechanic again today.
Got the car back today and the same sound is still happening, though now it's in the 60mph range and seems to come and go regardless of wheel direction. The mechanic said he took the brakes apart, found no issues but cleaned and lubed everything as a precaution.
I'm starting to wonder if its the bearings that are shot, but the sound hasn't remained constant as I would expect with a bearing issue. All the parts used are under warranty, so the next step I have available here is to have the brakes and rotors replaced.
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2011 Ford Fusion Hybrid .. Since purchasing my vehicle in January 2011, I have had continuing problems with squealing brakes and my rotors scoring. They have been replaced along with the linings, pads, etc and less than three months later they are back in the same condition. I drive 140 highway miles roundtrip daily - at least half of that in stop-n-go commute traffic. I never experienced this over the 11 years I owned my 1999 Ford Explorer under the same driving conditions. Have this issue with the hybrid?
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I have a 2008 GC with the E-Brake calipers in the back. I changed the brakes and rotors all around and now the petal goes to the floor. I know it has something to do with the rear brakes, because I did the fronts first and after a few pumps I had good petal.
I've done these types of rear brakes before, you use a tool to turn the caliper in. Is there anything I missed? Did I turn it in too much? I don't think it is the master cylinder because it was fine before I started and fine after I did the fronts.
Also, the e-brake doesn't hold at all now, so that's another reason I think the problem is in the rear calipers. Maybe an Adjustment? There's nothing leaking, either.
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