Looking for instructions on how to remove the plastic trim covering the rear passenger vent between the 2 front seats. pictures would be nice . this is for the 2010 passat wagen, which should be the same for all 2010 passats I am guessing.
View 1 RepliesI had the A/C on with the outside air circulation on and i saw some smoke from the center passenger vent. is this normal? once i switched to inside air circulation the smoke went away.
View 9 RepliesI could not figure it out. Looking for a good spot to hide an aftermarket gps antenna...
View 2 RepliesHow to remove the center (upper, right above the radio) dash vent assembly on an '04 Passat (I assume many other years would be similar). I have a rattle/squeek in there that I'd like to address. Sliding a credit card in between the vent/dash provides some improvement, so I'm thinking if I could get the assembly out and shim and/or lube it I might be able to resolve the problem.
View 2 Repliesso while replacing the rear brake lines in my 2001 F-250. / 5.4, the flex line that drops from the frame bolts to the axle through the axle breather threaded vent line. The friggin thing crumbled on me and now I can't find a replacement for it. Where I can get it or what it's actual name / part number is so I can call the Ford dealer and hope it's not obsoleted?
View 3 RepliesSo last couple days over the 4th, the heat was over 95.
AC Blowing out of the vent is cold but the rear seats passenger feels warm.
Even with the blower on the higher and temp on the lowest 65 (or lowest setting).
I put my hand towards the rear seat and I feel warm air. Near the vents are cool but its like the AC can't keep up with the heat ?
2010 @ 51k ... 450h ...
I have a question about the the rear vent. Which AC setting turns on and off the rear vent? I dont see a separate control for the rear vent. Secondly is the rear vent controlled by the driver temperature control or the passenger temperature? I don't see either of these addressed in the manual...
View 8 RepliesMy 2000 Passat's interior is flooding, however it is only in the read driver side floor and it is coming from the vent that is down there... I looked under the battery and vacuumed and cleaned it out... I can't seem to remove the black box on the right side under the hood next to the battery, it holds the ECU I believe. nor can I figure out where the flooding is coming from.
View 6 RepliesThe driver and passenger side were no problems at all, but the center vent is giving me trouble. I've seen the how-to, but can't get it to pop out. I don't really have a proper screwdriver, at home, to push up on the two clips on the top inside of the vent, but I used a hard plastic interior trim removal tool, while prying at the top with another. I have left the bottom controls in as I can't pull the left side buttons out enough to disconnect them while the vent is still in.
View 4 RepliesGrandson shoved an ink pen into the center dash vents of our 2007 Camry LE. I removed the vent grille and found out the pen rolled on back and dropped down into the plenum. Now we cannot set the air circulation to defrost. I'm assuming the pen is restricting flap movement.The dealer was not sure the best way to extract the pen - guessing would have to gut the dash with 6 to 8 hours of labor. I'm mechanically inclined and would try the extraction myself, but want to ensure I take the best route and not waste time and effort with an incorrect approach.
View 12 RepliesHow to remove the center dash air vent on a 2008 TCH?
View 2 RepliesWhat is involved in fixing TCM system and ECM (I could not start my '04 Phaeton, had it towed twice, only to find I needed a switch, frame, and a mechanism [shifter]).
Now I notice the center vent door that goes over the clock has two cracks in it and I also noticed some other scratches on the so-called wood area on the console. What is a TCM, and an ECM, and what would have to be removed to replace brake switch, PRNDL sensor, and shifter mechanism? Before work was done, service writer said the steering column and the center console would have to be removed. I know when I go back to the dealer Monday (2.8.10) there will probably be denial, so I would just like to know in advance what had to be removed.
I know this is a long shot but experienced a rattle coming from the center vent section and have a fix for it? Normally small rattles don't bother me, and it's a VW, but it's loud enough that I can hear it over the radio, so it's particularly annoying.
I took the headunit and vent out, tried to tighten the screws that secures the structure that holds the headunit in and looked around, didn't see anything. If you apply pressure to the top of the center vent it makes the rattle go away too.
So at this point, I'll have to take it into the dealer unless someone has a found a fix for it. 3,000 miles and three problems that have required trips to the dealership /end rant
I ordered the gauge kit, installed it with the printed out DIY (CIMs)
Looks great, everything is tight, no leaks. All power going to the gauge (even the dimmer).
When power is connected via the plug in the back of the gauge, the needle goes from -30 to 30, full swing like some newer vehicles, not when the car is turned on.
Here's the problem, is doesnt read anything. Sits at -30 at idle, rev (limiter) and under load. The DIY says it should be somewhere around -20 at idle.
The only thing I can think of is the pressure sending unit is broken. I know faulty equipment is not uncommon and I'm not mad if that is the case as long as it gets resolved, I just want to get this thing working. This is NOT a bash against CIM either, I don't want anyone getting the wrong idea.
Also, I used a forge boost tap. Everything tight, and secure, no leaks going to the filter, or the 4" hose from filter to psi sending unit. Did I miss anything that's not in the write up? Early 11 model DSG MKVI
I have a strange rattle from the center vent. This happens only at idle when at light or stop sign. If I move shift to N the rattle stops. This happens after car is warmed up to operating temp. seems like maybe the idle is a bit low. I have 35k miles.
View 1 RepliesI need to replace one wheel stud on the passenger side rear. Read an old post that said jack up the car remove wheel spay the stud you need to knock out with WD 40 or PB Blaster. Wait 10 minutes smack it with a small sledge hammer and out it comes. Now I have done that on some older classics but is it that simple on the SC. I have not really jacked it up to give it a good inspection, but I would think you may need to remove the rear rotor and maybe the back cover I saw when I took a quick look under the car.
View 4 RepliesAny tips for replacing the passenger side high beam? I can get my hand in there by there is no way to turn the bulb. Any easy tool to grip and turn the bulb?
View 5 RepliesI am in need of replacing the passenger side Front Headlight assembly. I was wondering, how to assemble it outside of a repair shop. I was also looking to possibly get the part number so I can make sure I am purchasing the correct product for my 2012 VW Passat SE.
View 8 RepliesI just returned from the stealership for the 30K service on my 2006 Passat. The dealer says the back brakes will need replacement soon and there is a special tool for opening the caliper due to the electric parking brake. What tool do I need to do this myself? I have done brakes many times and normally it is a 30-45 minutes job for both axles. Also, with that few miles, will I need new rotors?
View 22 RepliesSo I need to put some new brakes on the rear of the B6 but as I remember hearing there is a hydraulic that holds the brakes in place. Apparently they have to be disabled via VAGCOM. Is there any way around this?
View 12 RepliesI need detailed instructions for how to replace the right (passenger's side) rear turn signal bulb socket and the subassembly that holds the remaining bulbs and inserts into the tail light assembly. I've done this once before successfully but now can't seem to make it work now.
Without the subassembly inserted and locked into place with its locking tabs, the turn signal bulb locks into place in its socket, and that socket in turn easily inserts and locks into place in the hole in the outboard corner of the lens through the rear of the lens assembly. However, I can't seem to install both the turn signal bulb in its socket and the subassembly that holds the rest of the bulbs. The two contacts on the underside of the rim of the turn signal bulb socket would indicate that that the socket installs after the subassembly, but then it has nothing to plug into. When it's installed first, I don't see how the bulb would be energized.
The owner's manual of course says to have the dealer handle maintenance in this area.