Passat (B6) :: Coilovers Installed Fronts Are Higher Than Rears?
Jun 25, 2011
i got my coilovers on and both the front and back are all the way down as far as they can go but they fronts are still about 1/4" higher. will the fronts take longer to settle in? ins been a few days.
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I got a brand new turbo installed on my 99 Passat 1.8T... i took it out of the shop and everything worked fine for a few kms (the turbo was installed by a mechanic and i was there for the installation, i made sure he connected all the hoses ext...). after some time I am driving on the highway with around 110 and i decide to pass someone so i drop it down to 3rd gear, the revs go up to 3500 and the car started choking up(exactly the same thing as if the Air Mass Flow sensor was disconnected or removed) the problem continued. I disconnected the battery to restart the computer, also i have a brand new air filter and a brand new gas filter. If the new turbo is pushing more boost could it be that the car is not getting enough air through the regular intake?
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Installed the coilovers , took it for a drive , the rear end is just way to stiff. It seems like there was no rebound at all. We have the setting to softest. When installing the coilovers, the whole spring and shock assy was about 3 inches shorter than the OEM parts. We have to jack up the lower control arm to get it to mount. Is something adjusted wrong?
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Installed ST coilovers at 2200 miles, my only suspension mod. When I'm backing up or going at really slow speeds and turning there is a very annoying creaking/grinding noise. I've taken everything apart and looked at it again to no avail. Anything I should be looking for in specific?Could it be from over-tightening? Just thought I'd ask here before I take it to a shop.
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Installed coilovers last weekend, and heard a clunking on the rear drivers side. I figured i'd let it settle a week before going back and double checking everything and setting the height i wanted, but everything seems tight and it still clunks when i go over bumps.
I realize I can speculate all i want online, but I'd like possible causes before I start digging.
- top strut mount gone bad (there a way to test this?)
- top strut loose (either to the car or to the strut itself)
- springs not seated perfectly
And I have searched, but i cant find any possible solutions.
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So I just got new ST's last week. My rear drop ended up less than 2" at the lowest setting. I know KW's go low. Here are some pictures of the drop and coils. How to get lower?
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Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
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I picked up some Megan coil overs with plans to install them today, but can't figure out where one part goes. It looks like a spring spacer. The instructions are terrible and make no mention of what it is. My guess is it goes with the rear springs but...? [URL]....
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How do you adjust the rear height on coilovers? I have the ST coilovers which are comparable to the KW. Do I have to compress the spring and then adjust? I tried to do it with the wrenches given but the whole thing just turns with it. I'm going to lower the front some more and I want to do the rear as well. It is my first set of coilovers on a car and I had someone else do the install.
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I just installed coilovers on my b6 passat(I will post pics when the problem is fixed)but back to where i started the ride is a big improvement then I thought. I was driving the other day and no problems until i hit a bump in the street/ not pothole. all the coilovers held up except the passenger side the bump dropped my suspension on the passenger side to where it now hits the inner linen in the wheel well it that low that I smell a burning smell when I drive.
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I recently leased a 2013 Passat SE and I desperately need to eliminate the wheel gap. I know that SoloWerks has some coilovers available or our car, but I have a friend that has a CC on KSports and I absolutely love the way they ride. Ksport does not make a coilover for our cars, but I have heard that the CC suspension is the same. Looking for CC coilover setup on these cars yet? I'll be sure to post pictures once I get my wheels and eliminate the wheel gap!
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The dealer installed these on my new Prius today and when I got home I noticed that only the fronts light up when the doors are opened. They installed these in the rear too, but when the rear doors are opened they do not light up.
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I just picked up a C2500 with the 350 and 250,000 miles on it. Looks like the brakes were redone in the past few years.
The problem is, whenever you stomp on the brakes, the rears lock up immediately. It will spin out easily in the rain and squeal like hell on dry pavement, so slow controlled stops are necessary.
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The GX did not ride as smooth and hit hard on dips and bumps like a speed bump.
Air bags fill properly. Shock are damp around pistons, but definitely not blown out. My vehicle has 188,000 miles on it.
Dealer looked at and drove with me two times: Report: All working proper. The recommendation to put the air level control to high and then back to normal did improve the condition but not like when new.
Vehicle rode better with a load in the back, and or people in back seats. So I read where someone had a theory that the height sensors might degrade over time, and the normal position might have drifted out of range.
I adjusted the height sensors to ride a little higher (as I could see on the rear axle the rubber bump stops had been making contact a lot- it was all clean and shiny).
Raised the rear about 1/2" on each side. Did a lot of measurements from ground to bottom of wheel opening (not the best reference point, but at least I had one).
Result: Raising the ride height, thus increasing the travel to the bump stops totally brought back the good ride it had when newer. I also believe the increased height means the air bags have more pressure, thus more spring rate. So it takes more force to compress and travel to the bump stops.
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I have a 2013 F250 6.7 Crew Cab Single Wheel. Stock 20" Michelin tires and stock suspension. I have almost 20K miles on it. I just rotated the tires again and noticed that the rears are worn down on the inside. The fronts look perfect.
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i just got my edelbrock performer rpm intake and my holley 4 barrel installed but it won't run...the only way i can get it to hit and run at all is to floor it like it's flooded...then it'll run for a second but will never rev up and get going like it should...so i watched some vids on youtube for setting mixture on holley's wich i was pretty sure about anyway...turned the idle mixture screws in to snug and then out 1 and a half turns. is this a symptom of a bad vacuum leak or is it something to do with the carb maybe not enough fuel?
it's a holley 4160...list-6619...which is 600 cfm...it's on a 302 with 3 speed.
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I have the 2012 sel and had hid's installed. Lets just say they dont work right and the passenger side flickers every now and then and the error code in the dash comes in and out fog lights work and now all of the sudden the passenger one doesnt work. They worked perfect the first day, my guy checked them yesterday, i left they were fine till i got back on the highway to head home and they started messing up again. We tried relay's but when car would be turned on the relay would make a sound ad if a bad ground.
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The vehicle is a 2001.5 Passat 4 Motion V6. 120,000 miles on the Passat.
The original Cats were replaced 1 month ago after a service station deemed them dead. When the vehicle failed emissions.
The codes were p0430 and P0420 and P411.
Before that about a year ago The O2 sensors were replaced.
After 2 new catalytic converters were installed. The vehicle is still throwing p0420 and p0430 codes.
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My brake pedal started to vibrate after I installed my intake. I put the stock intake back on but it still does it.
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So my 2003 VW Passat will not start. I last drove it a few days ago, and it has been sitting inside a nice warm garage. The battery was replaced a few months ago. The car doesn't "turn over" but just has a steady sound when you try to start it. It's not a clicking sound like I had 6 months ago with it. I attached a link to the audio file of me trying to start it today. There are no warning lights per se coming on only the typical ones coming up when the ignition key is turned on. The lights and interior lamps come on indicating there seems to be power but nothing else. The plugs were cleaned a few months ago as well. Could it be alternator? I could try jumping it but the sound it makes leads me to believe there is plenty of juice.
[URL] .....
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Why my low pressure light is on and why my mfd is telling me I have an airbag fault? Where would I want to start diagnosing this problem? I ran power and ground wire with no sensor issues, but once the remote and RCA wires were connected I got the sensor issue.
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