Passat (B6) :: Wrong Screw Twisted Now Fog Light Alignment Is Off
Apr 14, 2012
When I installed my HID's in the fogs I twisted the heck out of the alignment screw (the one accessible at the fog grilles). How to properly level it? Factory setting.
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My girlfriend and I replaced both of thee axles on her Passat this past spring. She just brought her car in for a oil change and the mechanic noted that both outer CV Boots are twisted and leaking and the right front sway bar link has some play. Do these two could problems could be connected? Is the sway bar link a replace able part?
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So I've visited the dilemma of trying to replace my axles 4 times now... going on a 5th... apparently, my car is one of a kind, its a 2000 5 speed 1.8t fwd... so my issue... the axles for the 2000 5 speed 1.8t are not right, no where near close! The v6 manual axles have the wrong hub end, but the correct tranny side..... the 1.8t automatic axles... are about 4 inches too short but everything else is right..
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Dont ask how but i put in a wrong passat b6 key. And now it wont come out. How do i take it out??
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Alright so yesterday I changed the oil for the first time in my 1.8t B5 Passat and when I went to drive it the transmission slips a little. When I was changing the oil filter, I did drop it and oil spilled bellow. I am really confused why the Trans would have a problem. There is plenty of Trans fluid, and It had no problems what so ever before.
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So my passenger seat belt looks twisted. The little "tongue" on the inside is still pointing towards the pillar but the belt itself is twisted and hard turns it hits the plastic and makes noise. I tried twisting it and running the buckle through it. That didn't do the trick.
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I had some body work done this summer after my wife sideswiped another car. Both passenger-side doors had to come off for repairs/replacement and repainting. The end result looked great but after a little while I noticed that the rear door is about 3mm lower than it should be--the chrome trim around the windows and the crease in the sheet metal don't line up with the front door and the rear window surround. I imagine that fixing the alignment is a matter of supporting the door with a jack, loosening the hinge bolts where they attach to the b-pillar, nudging it into alignment, and re-tightening the bolts, but looking for a more specific procedure?
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I had these things wrong in the first 12 months
Tire shake: took 4 trips to find one bad tire. Replaced 1 tire
Squeaky front end: 2 trips to find front coil rubbing on the frame due to bad mount or something. Fixed under recall
Squeaky front end part 2: bad upper strut mount bushing. I won't even count the dealership nicking my hood and it has to be repainted.
I have never had a perfectly smooth riding car. Frankly, the loaners drive better. I documented this with the dealer I bought the car from and then with VWoA a month ago. I told them the front tires are shaking again and need a balance. I even had the front tires balanced at an Indy shop. Before my 1100 vacation. Now it needs balancing again. The back has always had a slight bumping
Now at the 10k service, I get a free alignment check and find my car is moderately out if alignment.
I originally mentioned it to my purchase dealer asking if it needed the alignment after all suspension work. They said it was not needed. EVIDENTALLY IT WAS.
So now I have a tire with a flat spot which they should have replaced when I had one replaced. Evidently, this car says before I leased it. I used my free alignment I had with my extended warranty which I should have been able to save for down the road AND I still need a tire balance.
I told VWoA a month ago I shouldn't have to pay for a balance if it kept going out of balance. Obviously, something was causing the tires to be out if balance. It was pretty far out on the front left. Camber was out .58 and the toe .02.
I am highly annoyed. Norm reeves never put the effort in to make it smooth.
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As the weather has been getting warmer lately, I'm about to change over to my summer wheels and tires. First, I'm just wondering when most people who use winter tires on this forum make the change.
On my previous cars, I've just changed over in the fall and spring by myself unless I needed a wheel balance or alignment. With the harsh winter and roads we've had this year, I'm thinking maybe I've hit too many potholes, since I'm noticing a vibration at 140kph (87mph). I got the current OEM rims and winter tires new last October and had them balanced before installing them on the car and I hadn't noticed anything until about 2 weeks ago. The issue did not suddenly show up after hitting a pot hole, but just started happening and becoming a bit more noticeable recently. The weird part is that it seems to be happening only at that specific speed when accelerating, which makes me wonder if its the wheels out of balance or engine/turbo vibrating under load. As you can imagine, if you let off the acceleration at high speeds, the car slows down slowly and the vibration goes away. So it's hard for me to say what the problem is.
When I switch over to the summer wheels and tires, I'm thinking of just changing them myself to see if the same vibration still occurs at the same speed and then deciding on whether to get them balanced or not.
A related issue, which I think some others have posted about on this site has been the wheel alignment. In the last 3 or 4 months, I've noticed that the car has a slight pull to the left under no steering input, so I may have to do an alignment soon.
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After installing drive gear springs i had a wheel alignment done. Since then the steering wheel is not level even thought the car goes straight it is slightly off. i brought it back 3 times and every time they did the alignment the steering wheel is off either the left of the right. i made an appointment to have it done at the dealer but cant figure out why they cant get it right.
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I took my Passat to a VW dealer this weekend for an alignment. I could tell the car was pulling slightly to the right. Later that day, I received a call from the dealer that sub-frame needed to be replaced because they could not align the car. I asked if the sub-frame or any other component was bent because I don't recall hitting anything hitting anything could cause this kind of damage.
The dealer said that there was nothing bent but he could not align the car and I need to replace the sub-frame. I told him I just wanted to pick up the car and take it to another shop. I then received a call half hour later that the front right wheel was pushed back further than the left one and they will try to adjust it. I am not sure what is normally involved in VW alignment but I believe that I am getting poor advice from this dealer. Likewise, I am not sure if some inexperience weekend mechanic who did not know a lot of alignments and just wanted to throw parts at the car?
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Within one week of ownership of my new 2013 Passat, I noticed the driver's side of trunk rubbing and had techs "align" the trunk at 30 days. Before the recent 10,000 mi service, I did a walk around to see if there was anything I should have serviced and noticed the passenger side hinge was rubbing on the wheatherstrip and tore through. So, I took it in under warranty. I called after 10 days of no car; the techs apparently "realigned' the trunk and were awaiting a replacement weatherstrip. I love my B7s (yes, we have two!) but there's been obvious assembly issues (our 2012 had paint drip issues on the mirror so had that corrected without a problem whatsoever).
So, I finally got my car back from the dealership after 42 days! The service advisor told me he was fighting with VW to get the bumper replaced because there "is something wrong with it". That issue is still open, unresolved. As for the trunk hinge/wheatherstrip issue, the fix provided minimal clearance. I compared the clearance to two other Passats (one was a 2013 S that was my loaner for 42 days and the other was a new SE on the floor). Both had ample clearance. The body on mine isn't right - the trunk cavity opening is not wide enough by a mm or so. I know my lemon law rights and will be pursuing a case. At a minimum, my car was in service for a long time and that has devalued my car for resale purposes.
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2015 TDI SE with sunroof. Wife's 3rd VW, 2nd TDI.
Under 1,000 miles. We both noticed it pulling to the right when on any road. The first thing that came to mind was tire pressure. I checked it. 50 PSI from the dealer/factory. We're running the Bridgestone run flats. The pressure in the door well says to set them at 35psi. The dealer was a little shocked when we brought it in that either one of their guys set it that high or someone from the factory did. The sidewall on the Bridgestone says 51psi max.
The dealer knocked down the pressures and gave us a free alignment. They said they road tested the car as well and it was good. We didn't get 2 miles away and when you let your hands off the wheel it will still pull right an entire lane in between 100-200 yards.
Is there a TSB out there on this? I'll be taking it back next week to get it looked at again. I drove a 2.5SEL when we got the tint/spoiler installed, tracked perfectly. I drove a 1.8TSI when we got the alignment done, tracked perfectly.
Also, the 1.8L was pretty impressive for a car that big. I believe it has about the same amount of power than the 2.5 but it seemed to have a lot more get up and go. Transmission however was VERY jerky and had a tough time finding the right gear.
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I recently had a 4-wheel alignment performed on my 2003 VW Passat. A couple days after the procedure I noticed my steering wheel was stiff and a whirring noise when I turned the wheel. Come to find out my power steering fluid is now leaking. Is this just a coincidence, or could the garage have broken something. It was not leaking or making any noises prior to the alignment.
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I got my alignment done at a very reputable tire shop today. But now after the alignment my ABS and Traction control light are on and it says check ABS on the lcd cluster. I was told i need to drive around and it should go away. Driven about 10 miles so far and its still there. How many miles until the light goes away...
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So I feel like this is more of vent than anything but anyways, it all started yesterday when I noticed one of my tires had the TPMS light pop up. I went to the gas station on my way home and put some air in it and everything was good. This morning I get in my car and its the same tire but now at 7 psi so I have a leaking tire. I bring it to costco to see if they can do a quick tire repair instead I find out my alignments been screwed up and it has worn down all 4 of my tires on the inside. I saw it for myself and its been worn down on them pretty bad. I'm in the process of getting the Michelin Pilot Sports by tomorrow and will need to get an alignment.
Lexus dealership didn't catch this when I brought it in last month for an oil change and they did their so called "inspection." Maybe they don't check for alignment issues but wouldn't they have noticed the uneven wear on my tires??? Also my IS350 is all stock and isn't dropped or anything. Why my alignment would've been messed up?
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I replaced both front hubs on my 1999 Jimmy back in April because of a bad bearing. About 5 months later the ABS light came on. I had the code pulled and it was left front speed sensor. I could get the light to go off by messing with the wires that come out of the hub but the light would come back on again after a short drive. Took the hub back and got a new one but the ABS light was still on. Had it scanned again and it said right speed sensor curcuit open. I can get the light to go out if I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left but it comes back on when I go back to the right. The truck needs a front alignment bad. Could the alignment problem be causing the ABS light or is my right hub also bad? Or do I have an electrical problem.
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I was driving my Tiguan and began to roll on the throttle and the check engine light started flashing. Running in 93 mode, I thought. But I did just run out a tank of 100 and did I forget to switch the program? I usually only drive this car on the weekends so its possible.
Now the EPC light came on and I cannot seem to clear the error. I've held the resume button and the check engine light has flashed once, then twice, letting go when the respected command is reached.
Am I missing something? Or did I indeed possibly grenade this thing? When I say roll in to throttle, I mean I was just starting to spool the turbo. By no means was I hard on it......yet....
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Can a front brake job (pads and rotors) and an alignment cause the ABS Light (code 2200) to go on? I went to pick up the car and the mechanic said it was a coincidence that the light is on after the brake and alignment job. The light was not on before I brought the car (2008 Dodge Caravan) in but went on a few hours after the job was completed.
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I had my ABS and Traction Control system checked a few times for buzzing sounds and ABS warning light coming on occasionally. My mechanic assured my all the speed sensors and connections were good. I recently noticed there was uneven tire wear on the right front tire. Could a severe misalignment of the front wheels cause the ABS warning light to come on?
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after owning my car for a week now I've noticed a few issues.
1) Passenger seat-heating doesn't work. Is this a common issue? is there an easy fix for it? I searched but didn't come up with anything. Is there a place I can check the voltage output at?
2) The bumper alignment is off, way off. I think the previous owner hit something :/ my rear bumper is totally mis aligned. Is this an easy fix? can I just take it off and re-align it myself? Or am I going to have to buy new front and rear bumpers?
3) When I drive I have a wur wur wur like described in the other recent post. I'm not sure whether the wheels are off-balance or off-round; however I'm taking the car to belle tire soon to find out.
Just want to get the car back to 100% the previous owner didn't treat her well at all. When I got the car there was so little power-steering fluid it wasn't even reaching the dip-stick and the coolant anti-freeze level was below minimum.
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