Passat (B6) :: Won't Start At First Kick And Idle Is Almost Always Lumpy - CEL Light On
Dec 22, 2013
Still trying to resolve this issue. I've replaced the coils and now the 6 month old NGK plugs with Bosch plugs. I bought a kit from ECU; the red coils and the Bosch plugs. Car revs smoothly no hiccups all the way on up. But sometimes the car won't start first kick, and the idle is almost always lumpy. CEL light has been on for more than several weeks. Last time I took it to the dealer to clear. It was back on the next day. 112 K (km) on car. 2009 TSI 2.0...
Parts Source will read the codes, and now there are plenty. I've looked at other threads re PCV valves and air leaks, but I don't believe they're related to the idle issue I'm having. More pronounced in the colder weather I might add.
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Drove the lady's car out on some errands today and ran into a problem on our drive home. Car was pinging really bad (low rpms in 1st and second) and car seemed as if it couldn't get out of its own way. Was driving for some time on the freeway (after a blistering 0-60 time of 20 seconds ), and noticed that the brake pedal was really spongy (felt like a mk1 when you try to brake with the car off). Found that the e-brake handle was up (negligibly up (perhaps 1mm raised)). Didn't have power brakes at all and had to use a lot of engine braking to slow the car off of the freeway.
Rear of the car smells like copper (wet pennies) and found that the brake reservoir is cracked (but fluid still at max level). Also noticed that as of late, when the car is at a stop (sometimes in gear, and sometimes in neutral) the car will rock/bump a little almost as if someone were giving it a bumper kiss with their car.
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I am trying to track down a problem for a friend with a 2001 Passat, 1.8L. The car has 150k and had a timing belt about 50k ago. About 3 weeks ago, it started misfiring badly on idle. In gear driving around, it purrs like a kitten. I scanned for codes and got:
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 4B0 906 018 CL
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 16551
9 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
At first I thought it might be a vacuum leak, but it looks like when he took it in 2 weeks ago they replaced all the vacuum hoses. It is unclear when he last had sparks and coils. I understand the likely culprits are:
sparks
coils
ICM
I am hesitant to blame sparks/coils if he is getting misfires on all 4 cyl. It seems like they might have screwed up the timing belt install given the camshaft sensor error, but he's been running for 50k miles since the change, and this idle issue just appeared recently.
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I have a 97 Ford Explorer. I bought it in 07 and it was nice until like 2 years ago when it started to give me doubts. It never died on me,yet, but everyday when I first start it for the day, if I put it in gear right away, it will stay idle for a while and then kick into gear and just jump. I would drive but it keeps kicking off and on until it is warmed up, I guess because it goes away. Also the OD light would come on also.
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I've got a R32 with nearly 100K miles on it. Several days ago I was adjusting my shifter cables and am not sure if i accidentally leaned up against any sensors or their associated connectors that are in that vicinity. I took the car for a drive to feel how the shifter adjustment had turned out. I was building engine RPM from 2500-4000 RPM, I let off the acceleration pedal and felt a small and new kick as if something got loose, popped off, or backfired. Not sure what it was but my engine started to misfire in what seemed to be in several cylinders. It idles rough but the needle doesn't exceed 1000 RPM during idle. When driving calmly, there is sporadic misfire. If pushed hard to build RPM, it will misfire heavily.
I scanned the vehicle and got the following codes,
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
I've checked
- Every hose I can see and feel for Vacuum leaks
- Checked all my fuses
- Swapped coils from banks 1,3,5, with 2,4,6
- Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected camshaft hall sender sensors and tightened the bolts.
- Have erased the coded and the same codes are back.
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Recently I just purchased a 1998 F-250 (light duty) with 11X,XXX miles on it. Up until today, it was running perfectly. However, today it started idling rough whenever I was at a light. This was only when I was stopped, in gear, with my foot on the brake. In neutral or park it didn't do it, and it stopped as soon as I gave it a little gas. No CEL either. I've looked around, and saw that it might just be "feature" of the 4.6. I also have seen to clean the MAF, but wouldn't that also give a rough idle when in park/neutral? Same with replacing the coil pack.
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I recently acquired a 1.8t auto Wagon from a friend who passed away, I dont wanna sell it, so I figured why not keep it. So here's my question. On cold starts the RPM's kick up above 1K and then drop to the proper idle speed. The engine purrs nicely, but I have noticed that it sounds beefy inside the cabin during warm up. I can feel the light vibrations on the steering wheel. After I start driving the car warms up and everything seems normal. It just sounds like a fan or blower motor has come on with the engine. No ticking or anything like that. Is this normal?
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Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
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My 2005 Excursion, at 198K miles has become more of a 'hangar queen' in that I only use it for big jobs. I've kept it for towing/hauling and making long highway runs with more than 4 people.
The truck, 99.8% of the time, runs super. It pulls like a locomotive and gets decent fuel economy (17 mpg running 75 mph empty). I've got the 'blue spring', EGR delete, ARP headstuds, 4" MBRP, Banks intercooler, and run my SCT tuner all the time on "8000 lb tow".
But...there is this weird intermittent problem. It appears to only happen when it is warmed up and driving around town. Sometimes, when I pull up to a light, with my foot on the brake, the engine will sort of go into a 'lumpy race idle' and you have to clamp down on the brake pedal to keep it from lurching into the guy in front of you. Other times, it just runs rough and idles 'lumpy'. It has only died maybe 2 times when acting up. Often, the symptoms disappear on their own and don't come back. If I turn off the engine and re-start (to keep from scaring people at the bank drive-through) it usually runs fine after restart.
I've got an EDGE CTS monitor so I've been trying to find out from that what is going on. I can't seem to catch the parameter that might tell me. My local 'indy' shop can't find any codes thrown. The truck had new alternator, batteries, and starter motor installed in January this year. These symptoms have been going on for several years. Recently, they seem to occur more often.
I've searched on this site a few times, but with no definite 'hit'. I'll admit that I'm a big out of the jargon. I keep thinking this is related to FICM, but everyone seems to say the FICM would manifest as a cold start problem. I do know the FICM sits right on top of the drivers side valve cover. It has got to get hot.
FICM?
Injectors?
How do I kill this one strange problem?
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2002.5 VW Jetta GLI VR6 24V 6-Speed. Barely accepts a small can of Freon from full empty, and pressure goes to over 100 psi in the red, compressor does not kick in, idle fluctuates with A/C button on, small fan kicks on fine, some air pump turns on and off with the erratic idle and sounds like shot of compressed air. When I turn the A/C button off, idle comes back to normal and that psss sound is gone. I already changed compressors and that made no difference. Video below.....
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I own a 1987 Plymouth Horizon, 70, 000 miles on it. Long story short, The car sat for 3 years without being driven. It would just be started up whenever the other owners wanted to. I have fixed a lot of its problems, and replaced tires, brakes, hoses, belts etc.. Problem I am having is when itis started up it is at a very high idle and will not allow you to kick it down till it warms up or it idles down on it's own after being warm. I have sprayed carburetor cleaner around the linkage and so on but it still does it. What could be causing it?
Like I said the car sat for 3 years and did have gas in it when I bought it and not being able to drain out the old gas I put HEET gas-line antifreeze & water remover in it. The fuel filter has been changed out twice. Once you get it on the road it runs like a champ for being 24 years old. It's just the high idle when you first start it up. The owner of it had some little quirks I guess you would say. He had and they are still there, two clothes pens on the gas rail/line and they were there because of vapor lock. They are located on two different parts of the line I guess to balance it out. Now I don't know if this is true or how even remotely possible two clothes pens could have anything to work with vapor lock. Now I do know that on occasion it will run a bit and stop when you cut off the engine, though not all the time....
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So I have a 2002 Kia Spectra. I know the IAC has needed replaced for a while but It hasn't really been a n issue at all until today. So last night my car's transmission started to kick when shifting gears. Mostly between first and second but at other gears sometimes as well. This morning it was still kicking and I figured my transmission was going out. However when stopped at a stop light I noticed that my car was idling rough. So I turned it off and tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't start. At least not for about 10-15 minutes. So I was wondering if the IAC could be causing the transmission to shift rough at all?
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So I have a 2002 Kia Spectra. I know the IAC has needed replaced for a while but It hasn't really been a n issue at all until today.
So last night my car's transmission started to kick when shifting gears. Mostly between first and second but at other gears sometimes as well. This morning it was still kicking and I figured my transmission was going out.
However when stopped at a stop light I noticed that my car was idling rough. So I turned it off and tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't start. At least not for about 10-15 minutes. So I was wondering if the IAC could be causing the transmission to shift rough at all?
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My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
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The ABS will kick in on it's own on the left front tire? I drive on the highway every day, and on an on-ramp, going approximately 40-50mph, making a wide right turn, the left front wheel will activate ABS on it's own. If I accelerate throught the whole turn, this does not happen. It is not wet outside, there's no visible liquid or oil on the pavement.
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i dont have to much money right now to buy a new starter but possibly in a week or so. Will this damage anything on my car???
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I have weird kick back when I release gas pedal. Why?
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How to remove the drivers side kick panel? It has the hood release lever, which is holding me back from figuring out how to get it off. I don't want to keep experimenting because of the chance of breaking something. I'm trying to install some after market speakers and need to get behind it to run the speaker wire to the door.
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Since I got my Tig a couple weeks ago ive noticed occasionally when stopped at a red light (usually right after I stop fully) ill feel like I've been tapped from behind slightly. Just a lil thump forward. I didn't notice it every time though. Today, while sitting at a light I was able to figure out how to reproduce it. Id like to see if you all have felt the same and if you can reproduce it like I can.
While at the light hold the brake pedal as lightly as you can while still remaining stopped. then, press it down relatively firmly. Once you push down on it, you should feel that thump. loosen up the brake a bit and then repeat. It will do it again.
I am assuming this is a set percentage of brake pressure or pedal degree that is disengaging the clutches fully. Well, that's the most I can speculate actually..just a wild guess.
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Just replaced injector 4, oil cooler and did egr delete. Ficm is at 48 and truck will not kick over. New batteries installed.
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I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
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