Passat (B6) :: When Car Starts Moving Odometer Disappears - Speed In Kms
Jul 29, 2013
A few months ago I had the oil changed in my 06 Passat and they forgot to reset the service engine display. When I stopped by later, the regular guy was not there so the mechanic tried to reset it...after which , when the car starts moving, the odometer disappears and is replaced with the speed in kilometers. Nothing important, the trip odometer is still there but I think I would prefer the original setting.How to get my miles back?
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My speed odometer just stopped working along with the trip meter, while I was driving down the Interstate. I noticed no warning signs regarding this failure. Strange all other indications seem to work just fine on my cluster.
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On my 07 Wagon the speed that is displayed in the odometer window while you are moving is being displayed in km/h. How do I switch this back to mph? It appears that everything in my convenience settings are set to miles.
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Car runs just fine except I do notice the RPM's moving a bit up while I'm cruising at a steady speed. Almost as if the clutch is slipping. It's an Auto, btw.
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I have a 2012 Camry SE I4. The problem is my car speed odometer is faster than my radar detector speed. I have 2 detectors and they are both not show the same speed compare to the speed odometer. For example, I am going 70mph, the detector reads like 67-68mph. So the speed odometer is off about 2-3mph. I have OEM size on my car. I know the GPS on my detector is more accurate. So my speed odometer has problem?
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My corolla odometer is adding miles faster than usual all of a sudden. getting about 1.4 miles instead of just one mile. the car has 250,000 miles on it now... What can I do to adjust it, replace it, or what?
Also, when should rear brake drums be replaced. My bearings are bad so should I replace the drums too?
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2007 passat variant 2.0T ... I had recently fit a pair of anti lift kit on the car. Also did an alignment right after with front Toe close to 0 degree. Now the steering start to shake at 70mph or above speed. Car is going straight and no shake at below 70mph. Where should i look at??
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2002 Camry with check engine light steady on and car shutting off when coming to a stop. Diagnostics revealed error codes P0440, P0441, P0446, P0442 indicating evaporation problem. Found broken closed canister valve. Had valve replaced and check engine light went off. Technician says VSC/TRAC lights were on also when he pulled the car in.
They had not been on before. Now the VSC/TRAC lights are coming on and staying on when the car starts moving. The code is c1336, something about yaw rate sensor. Is there something that still needs to be reset or does this mean that the sensor is bad and what and where is this yaw rate sensor?
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Grand am is a 4cly 4speed trans. My daughter is off to school. She called and told me her speed odometer is not working. She also mentioned that it is not shifting properly if at all. Is the speed odometer operated by cable? Would the two be related to the transmission going bad?
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2002 T&C, starts and idles fine. When we put in gear (drive or reverse) it dies. Then we can restart and it drives fine the rest of the day. This only happens when it has been sitting a long time, such as over night. However, I've let it sit until mid-day and it does it so it doesn't appear to be Temp or humidity related as it issue is repeatable at any time of the day as long as the vehicle has been sitting 12 hours or so.
The remainder of the day it drives without issue and we can restart 8-10 times during the day without issue, then the next day when we restart it, no matter how long it idles it cuts out when you first start to move and apply the gas. When you restart, it, it often doesn't happen again and I've never had to restart more than twice. Again, it runs fine other than this issue.
I've replaced the fuel filter and I put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. The pressure is within specs. I also watched the gauge as my wife backed the vehicle up and it died, but the fuel pressure didn't drop out. It is now showing a O2 Sensor code per Advance, but in reading other post, those can be misleading, so I wanted input before I just start throwing money at the problem
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When my car is still and not moving it is quiet, and the noise does not exist.
As soon as the car starts moving, the noise starts and speeds up and slows down with the speed. The noise is there when i brake or when I don't brake, so I don't believe it has anything to do with the breaks.
To me (who knows nothing about the mechanics of a car) it seems like the wheel is not sitting on the road evenly.
I took it to the Toyota service centre and they said that they found a piece of loose metal somewhere and they can't hear any noise. But the noise was still evident as soon as i got back in the car and drove off. They checked the car over, and said it's fine.
I drove my brothers brand new Rav 4 to see if perhaps I am being overly sensitive with this sound and perhaps maybe it is just the sound of the tire on the road, but his car made no such sound.
It's not overly evident. I have to point it out to people, but once they hear it, they also say that it shouldn't make that sound.
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I just purchased a 2014 Prius C and am having a problem with the Hill Start Assist/Control.
At every single stop, no matter how lightly I press the brake, when I release the brake the car stays in place for two seconds (no gas), and then starts moving.
I am assuming this is the HSC and not a normal function on the car.
If I depress the brake all the way no lights come on, no buzzer sounds, but the above described behavior still happens. I've tried the light stops on up hills, down hills, and flat ground, it all is the same.
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I have a 2010 explorer. I bought it with a lot of the lights, i.e. tire pressure, skid control, abs, service engine, air bag, service rcs and some others on and these systems are not working. a module was missing associated to the AWD system, I have put one in but awd still does not work through the 4 high and 4 low work. The automatic door locks does not lock when the vehicle starts moving. Some of the lights on the dash and doors don't work either.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The temperature gauge in the car moves toward the "danger zone" only under both the following conditions:
1) Car is at IDLE after being driven for a while (15-20 minutes). 2) Headlights are ON (I've sat in the car and watched the temperature gauge move up and then back down as I turn on and thrn turn off the headlights).
*What I've also noticed is that the temperature gauge starts moving up as the radiator fans kick ON.
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I have a 2001 Mazda 626. It has stopped unexpectedly while moving 2 times in the past 3 1/2 months. When it stopped (both times) it was mid-day, the a/c was on and I was moving at a low speed (between 5-15 mpg). When this happens, the gear shift locks up and the car won't move. Then after about 15-20 minutes it starts right up!
The car has been checked by my regular mechanic both times, who is terrific, and although he ran a diagnostic both times, found no electrical problem. He's convinced it's some kind of simple mechanical issue but hasn't be en able to diagnose what and isn't inclined to just start replacing any/all possible parts without a definitive reason.
The second time the car did this the Mazda dealership also did a full diagnostic and only reported "repairing" a couple of the battery wires, did not replace anything.
No one knows what's wrong but if the problem isn't resolved soon I will have to get another vehicle because I no longer feel safe in the car.
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I've read through my manual, but can't find anything on how to actually lock the odometer at zero when I don't need it. Trip A is set to my oil change mileage and I just want Trip B to be off or at zero. 2012 F150 XL SBRC, 5.0 V8 4x4, 3.55 gears....
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I have a 1997 f150 4.6L 4x4 Standard Transmission and today I hopped in it to go to work, and the Speedo, Trip Odometer, and Odometer all are not working.
This is the first time it has happened to me, what could cause this or have a problem similar to this and know how to fix it?
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Last night when Ian was driving to my house on a small highway, going about 50MPH, his car suddenly started losing speed and quickly dropped down to around 30. When he tried to accelerate, it would make a lot of noise and effort but the speed would only increase by maybe a mile per hour or so and then drop down even more, until within a minute or so he was convinced that the car was going to just stop moving if he didn't pull over and shut off the engine. At this point he had close to a quarter tank of gas according to his gas gauge.
On the side of the road, he checked the engine's levels and the only thing he found that was unusual was that the oil was pretty low even though he had checked it just a week or two ago. I buzzed down and brought him some motor oil, but when he tried to start the car again it just clicked over on the driver's side of the engine. Not sure if this is a symptom or a function of having left the flashers on for 20 minutes while he was waiting for me. After we got it towed to my apartment complex, the tow truck driver jumped the battery to try to drive it about 10ft into a parking spot.
In order to keep the car running he had to pump the gas and brake back and forth. One other thing I noticed there was that in reverse, the car seemed to move fine, but once he put it into drive it took a lot of finesse and some very scary sputtery noises to coax it into moving forward. It was like the parking brake was on but 2x as hard. Also the gas gauge now read empty, which could have been an electrical thing. The tape deck also spontaneously turned on.
This reminds me a bit of when I had my last junker and the alternator needed replacing, but he just replaced the alternator 2-3 years ago so it seems unlikely and annoying that it would have gone south again so fast.
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We have a brand new 2013 Ford Focus, a little over 2500 miles. We drove the vehicle to NYC, starting the trip with over 500 miles. During stop-n-go driving the following conditions are experienced: - car in drive but stopped, engine idles at 750rpm- car moving at crawl speed, less than 5mph, and RPM between 750 to 2100, engine acts as if it will stall (IT IS AN AUTOMATIC TRANS); when this happens there's an obvious shudder - again almost as if the car will stall out- cannot determine what gear its in, but probably first, second, or maybe third, but no higher
We took the car back to the dealer, but they acted as if this was a normal, if not, non existent issue; they were very dismissive.
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Just bought a 2000 Passat GLX 4Motion wagon. It originally came from the US, thus, has the mph speedometer and the odometer is in miles. I
So, VAGCOM can adjust the odometer from miles to kilometers? Also, any info on where I might be able to get a instrument cluster in kph?
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I just brought my first vw, now it's diesel and in New Zealand I have the pay milage because of diesel for 1000ks and ill do it in a week jus lt getting to work, is there a way to put a switch in to stop the odometer so I don't have to worry about it? I have been told that if I was to do it it will mess up my ecu ...
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