Passat (B6) :: V6 Runs Rough For 1 - 2 Minutes At Startup When Cold
Jul 3, 2007
My V6 3.2l runs very rough for 1-2 minutes at startup when cold i.e. the first startup of the day, or after it has not been driven for several hours. Is this normal? I understand this might be something to do with the 'anti-knocking' feature. But I only use RON 98. Also I can here something like a tappet sticking when idle all the time. Is this normal, is it just a noisy engine design? The car has only done 1800kms.
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Ok, I have owned my 02 Passat with the 30V 2.8L V6 since may. I got it with 115K and now its just under 129K I had the timing belt done at Jimmy's in Provo UT at 126K and up until then the engine ran great. Since the belt was replaced <along with the water pump and such> . The car has a tendency to feel like its idling rough, and when you start it up first thing on a cold morning it sounds like the valves are rattling. It does this for a brief second then goes away until the next time you start it in the cold morning. It wont do this if its warm outside, or after you start it previously that day. So far I have replaced the plugs with Bosch Platinum 2 prong plugs, and replaced the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump when it dead on me without warning about 2 months ago.
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My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
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1996 s-10 runs very rough at start-up .. smooths out after it warms up and runs really great. Is it just the plugs and wires or something else??
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I have a 2003 f350 6.0 and did head studs with the egr delete and Warren diesel Injectors 155cc. I have both warrens tunning and loney wild tunes.
In all the tunes when i first start the truck up after sitting for a while it will rev real high. Like when i was a kid and tried to impress someone and catch the motor as soon as it fired up and rev it real quick. I mean it sounds cool but i don't want it to do it for obvious reasons. It also gets out of control when you are driving it down the road until its warmed up. If you just try and drive it normal it will start to take off once it gets around 1500 rpms unless you really feather the peddle. Its almost as if its getting to much fuel but it does it with both tunes.
In the tow mode the truck tows like crap. I can literally have the peddle to the floor and it struggles to move a 10k car trailer. I really just wanted a more fuel efficient truck that had a little pep. Now i wished i had left it stock with the new studs.
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It has happened three times now on cold startup my car makes this loud hissing sound then the car runs normally. Once a few months ago. Again a few weeks ago and this morning it was pretty cold maybe low 50's. I normally turn the key in the ignition to the "acc" position let it "ding" once then start the car. What could this loud hissing be that only happens on cold startup then the car runs like nothing happened? I called my local mechanic and he said he wouldn't know if he can't recreate the sound. Which you really can't because it happens once every blue moon but I wanna make sure I'm not ignoring a problem that could get worse.
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Normally when cold the car would start and rest at about 1,200 maybe 1,300 for a couple minutes then go down to its normal idle point, recently when starting it when cold, it sounds and looks like it wants to do that but just goes straight to its normal idle point, its only started this a couple does ago and has me a little worried now. could there be anything wrong ?
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2000 Toyota Camry le v6 .... When I first start my car it runs rough after about 5 to 10 minutes it runs fine. I have no check engine light on. I used sea foam and the problem went away for a couple weeks then it came back. I have about 30k on my spark plugs.
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I have a 2005 Chevy Equinox with 73K miles. When I first start it up morning the car runs rough for about a minute or two and then smooths out. I took it to a mechanic who said there was oil on one of the plugs and to get rid of the car. I tried another mechanic on Craigslist and he replaced the upper plenum gaskets. It ran better for about a day or two and now the problem has resurfaced.
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If my car's been sitting - say monday morning after sitting all weekend in the garage- it runs rough for a little while. Sometimes only for a few seconds, sometimes for a little while after the idle drops. The colder the car is, the longer and worse the condition. It feels like a cylinder isn't firing.
After a particularly cold and wet spell (I had the car outside) it ran so badly it threw a code for one of the cam position sensors and #4 misfire. I replaced both of the sensors. That worked a little.
Since I was due for 80k service and saw a misfire when damp, I replaced the ignition coils along with the spark plugs. That worked a little more. But, it still does it. What else could it be if not ignition? Sticky valve? something else?
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The car idles rough on cold mornings but runs fine. It will stall while idling but starts back easily. I am getting a 1131 and a 1151 code with my scanner along with 0300 and lean bank 1 codes. I started having these problems after I had to remove the upper intake to replace coil packs. I was getting egr code and had an egr port completely block off but cleaned that out and no longer get the egr codes. Spraying carb cleaner around the engine I get a very slight bump in rpm around a couple of the intake ports could that be my problem or should I look deeper?
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I recently replaced the plugs cuz I had a rough idle all the time. During plug change when I discovered they had already been changed I found one that had a burned off electrode. Does this mean a lean condition exists?
After plug change it runs smoothly but only after 10 min warmup in our canadian winters. I can drive it when its not warm but seems to have less than full power and idles very badly after driving w/o proper warmup.
Next I changed fuel filter and checked fpdm, it was a little rusty but not bad so i just mounted it 1/4 off steel to prevent further rusting.
Since then I have installed a programmer [diablosport] but found no codes since i had battery disconnected for filter change. no new codes in last few weeks since.
So do I have a lean running cylinder causing this poor cold idle or a rich cylinder? It must be a clogged or dripping fuel injector right?
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This has been an ongoing issue for about a month. When I start the engine after it has been sitting and is cold it runs ruff for about a minute then smooths out and runs fine. I pulled a P0304 code (cyl.4 missfire) but I do not get a CEL.
I checked the plugs and they were ok but I changed them and the wires anyway as it just turned 50k and the plugs were original. I could live with a little cold ruff idle but the code throwing bothers me. The truck is a 2000 xlt 4x with auto trans. and 4.0 engine. This is my second 4.0 ranger but I have only had it for about 6 months.
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I have had my 06 for 4 months now. I started to get a cold running problem now that the temperature is falling below 40. When I start it in the morning I wait till the idle comes down before driving. I start driving and it runs rough as if it had a choke stuck closed. I spoke with the dealer and he told me to run lower octane in the winter. That has not worked.
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I have my 2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke. 175,000 original miles by me and only me. SCT, MBRP, Howes or Stanandyne almost always. Runs like new. It starts rough if I don't plug it in. Even on 50 degree days. Then it levels off and runs perfectly. If I plug the truck in I can drive off immediately with perfect operation of motor. I just went 1500 miles. Pulling a car hauler with car. NP at all.
New Glow Plugs, GPR "Yes it works", IPR, New Harness, Buzz Test shows it's fine, New #8 injector last year, New O rings HPOP. My buddy who is a PStroke guy said this trucks runs too perfect for it to be injectors. He recommends seals for the injectors. What does this mean. Or what else can it be. Where should I start.
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My '03 6.0 is hard to start and runs rough when cold. Not just cold outside temps, but engine not up to temp. Starts and runs like a champ once it's up to temp. It was doing this when I got it, but it's getting worse.
From what I've read the common culprits are:
1 - failed solder joints on FICM power supply board
2 - bad power supply side of the FICM
3 - updated flash needed for FICM
4 - injector stiction
5 - leaky O-rings at high pressure oil rail to injectors
I have read up on how to run the voltage test on the FICM with a multimeter.
Seems like I would have to go to a dealer to have the software version for the FICM checked.
I am 100% competent to do the tests and/or repairs myself, but since I recently moved in with my fiance in a condo and my tools are in storage, I will have to do it at a friend's house. That being the case, I want to know what all of the common things are that I may need to check for so I am prepared. So, I wanted to see if there were any other common causes of this issue.
I plan to test the FICM voltage and give FICMRepair.com some business if that's the problem. And if that's not the problem (or maybe even if it is) I will get the injector seal kits and replace all of the injector seals as well as disassembling and cleaning the spool valves in the solenoids. I will also change oil and fuel filters with Motorcraft parts and Rotella synthetic oil while I'm in there.
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I have a 2001 7.3 with 259,000 miles. It does not get too cold here, however over the past few winters when the temp is below 50 at night the first minute or two of running out of the neighborhood is tough going unless I let it heat up. It has been getting worse over the past few years and now if its even 55 or 60 I need to let it heat up. Glow plugs? Injectors?
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My 06 Sonata runs very rough at start up when the car is cold. It appears that it is missing on several cylinders. This last for about 15 seconds and then the car runs fine. What could be causing this problem? No check engine light.
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I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
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I have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
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The car is a 2000 passat v6 with ~135k, auto trans. Well when the car is cranked it takes a bit to get running and once it does, black(wet) specs come out the exhaust and go all cover the surrounding area of the tailpipe. When the a/c is off it almost sounds like it is running normal but when the a/c is on(at idle) the engine runs very rough, it almost sounds like a misfire. It does have a check engine light, but i have no obd2 scanner, and from what i've been reading might not even do me any good because of vag com?
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