Passat (B6) :: Turning Off DRLs By Pulling Out Switch On Dash?
Jan 6, 2012
I'd like to turn off my drl's.....getting new front bulbs and going to install some led's to use as drl's. Up to now, I've only read about using VAG-COM to turn off. I just came across a YouTube demo about turning off drl's by pulling out switch on dash, disconnecting switch from connector and bending down a prong inside the connector. Sounds and looks simple. I haven't seen this method written up on Vortex before....
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I have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
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How to disable the Daytime Running Lights? I checked the manual and the fuses labeled are specifically for the front right and front left headlights. Is there a way to disable aside from pulling a fuse?
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I have a 2011 GTi, and I'm sure this has been gone over many many times, but I need to be honest, with work and trade school and lack of a good smartphone I have no time to search this on vortex. I just want to know how to turn my DRLs off on my GTi, its the sunroof nav package with BI Xenons. I think I heard you need to use VAG COM to load some special code, and that's about all I heard. So where to get it to turn these off.
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On the MKVI Golf, is there a way to disable the DRL logo in the dash without having the DRLs off? I don't mind the headlights turned on....but the logo in the dash bugs me.
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I just bought a Euro Headlight switch from ECS, it doesn't turn off the day time running lights, they come on when I release the e-brake just like the oem switch allows..
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My fog lights were working on second then all of a sudden both of them stopped working. And the switch on the inside isn't turning green when you pull out to turn them on. What the deal with that and how I can fix it. I just switched the bulbs today but they were working but just stopped.
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I was on youtube and saw a video, of a guy running fog lights as DRL's and only the fog lights, how to do this, or how to on the foglights independently?
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I thought nothing of the ESP light when I was driving home since it just snowed another foot and it was slippery. But, just got home and when I turned the car off I noticed the displays are staying illuminated with the keys out and doors shut. Not the center info display in red the small ones to the sides .. One is the odo/km display. Are these related ? I disconnected the battery since I have to sleep and don't want to wake up to a dead battery.
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Purchased used: 2001 Passat 1.8T w/ Manual The DRLs are not working. The low beams work fine and my understanding is that the DRLs are reduced wattage low beams. I have checked with the vehicle running , handbrake off, and in gear.
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In the summer I have a habit of switching off the air conditioner every time I pull away from a stop, then turn it back on after I get up to speed again. Because the engine needs the most power when pulling away from stops, I have the impression that this saves fuel. Is this necessary?
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I have a 06 passat and I installed a kit, and it keeps flickering, any reason why this would happen... My drls have been disabled, and i thought that should clear the problem.. it hasnt..
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Can I change the coding to run the High Beams at a lower percentage for DRLs? Is this possible? I have a feeling its not but just wanted to ask around.
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I'm going to need to install a Nokia Bluetooth car kit on my MkVI in the summer at latest and was wondering how to get the radio and AC controls out to do it.
Radio naturally needs to come out to connect the kit to it (or its power cables anyway), but I was thinking of installing the kit's control unit under the AC controls, to the side of the center console on the inside of it.
I guess the control unit's wire would then go into the dash from between the AC control panel and the center console somewhere. That was my plan anyway.
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I just had an alignment done and the steering wheel is turned counter clockwise a little. I know very little about alignment. I know the terminology and what it means and i heard the the rear camber and toe isn't adjustable on mk4s. I did lower my car,only about one inch though.
Here is the sheet that came with the alignment:
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2K 1.8T Golf. Lowered on Koni struts and neuspeed street (red) springs last year. Rear axel bushing done soon after. Replaced front and rear strut mounts and bearings at the time of struts and springs. Rack died on me in the fall so I had it replaced along with newer control arms and upgraded bushings. Aligned right after the rack was installed and ran like an arrow until last weekend. Now it pull to right, more as I speed up. I also noticed that when I turn left, the steering is much stiffer then steering left (full turns and mild turns).
PS fluid is still full. My ball joints are about 3 years old so I'm leaning towards that direction. Especially after this past winter and the never ending pot holes in Detroit. The shop used moogs and were regularly greased as they had zerk fittings. I think I hear some clunking upfront but I'm unclear as my old GHL Muffler weld finally gave out and is having by a hockey lace and it is rattling every time I accelerate or hit a bump. I'm going to jack it up this weekend to do some exhaust work so I'll give it a good once over and shake down what I can.
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I'm about to leave on a road trip. I noticed last trip, the car pulled to the right. Can that be improved by tire pressure? If so, would I need more front driver or passenger side and/or rear tires?
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When my wife went to put the key in the ignition switch, the ignition switch fell in behind the dash.
So I took off work early today and went to trade in my 95 Trooper and get an '04 Touareg. I guess I'll have to cancel my Planet Isuzu account. A friend of mine works at a dealership and they had two '04s on the lot, one black, one beige. I went with the beige because my black Jetta doesn't hide dirt well at all and the bird poop really stands out. Also, the beige, although it has more miles (47,000), was in much better shape, was more cush, and felt safer on the test drive. Not sure the why of that other than the owner of the black one put some really hard miles on it, or perhaps he had a sportier suspension.
Anyway, I buy the thing, take it home, and park it up by the mailboxes. I then put the key in the mailbox and walked home. I told my wife the Trooper broke down (a very believable story) and asked her to come for a ride with me in the golf cart to get the mail so I could vent.
On the ride there, I tell her a great story about how and where the Trooper broke down and what a pain in the ass it was and how I couldn't reach her on her cell phone, and it's a good thing our friend Marc runs a towing service and she's buying it. And she opens the mailbox. And she gets the key and is thrilled.
So she drives it home and I drive the golf cart home and we go inside and decide to go take a ride to get some dinner. I let her drive. We get in and she goes to put the key in the ignition and says, "That's weird." And as I say, "What's weird?" she goes to put the key in again and the ignition switch disappears and falls in behind the dash. There's a hole in my dash where my key used to go.
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Ok so my car is 5 speed and 2.8 30v V6, I bought an Advance auto parts Axle about a year ago and it has already stopped performing as new. Its clicking and yadayda my car is pulling left with severe shakes sometimes and I need to know what a quality part is. As I look through the ECS website i see OEM at $500, if i had to buy those, i may have to let the car go. And the other brands I've never heard of before so I am hesitant to buy now, and don't want to spend the money only to have to replace in a year again.
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I took my Passat to a VW dealer this weekend for an alignment. I could tell the car was pulling slightly to the right. Later that day, I received a call from the dealer that sub-frame needed to be replaced because they could not align the car. I asked if the sub-frame or any other component was bent because I don't recall hitting anything hitting anything could cause this kind of damage.
The dealer said that there was nothing bent but he could not align the car and I need to replace the sub-frame. I told him I just wanted to pick up the car and take it to another shop. I then received a call half hour later that the front right wheel was pushed back further than the left one and they will try to adjust it. I am not sure what is normally involved in VW alignment but I believe that I am getting poor advice from this dealer. Likewise, I am not sure if some inexperience weekend mechanic who did not know a lot of alignments and just wanted to throw parts at the car?
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Presenlty my switch that turns on the heat/ac is dark as is the switch for the speed for that device is dark. Are these bulbs that burn out and just need replacing? the two other switches in that area are lit and fine. Or could it be a wiring issue?
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