Passat (B6) :: Transmission Dropping Down To 5th Or Sometimes Even 4th At Cruising Speeds


Nov 16, 2012

I have a 2010 Passat 2.0T with 42k miles. Since it rolled over 38k on the odometer, I have been having a problem with the tranny dropping down to 5th, sometimes even 4th, while at cruising speeds (80-85 mph...Live in Texas). I notice this mostly on long drives (Ft Worth to San Antonio). The problem usually occurs while in Drive when I punch it to pass. Although, this is not always the case; sometimes it will drop down by simply letting off the accelerator or pushing the brake.

When this happens, I have to manually shift it back into 6th and its a crap shoot if it stays there when I put it back into Drive. This last trip I drove 90% manually because it would not stay in 6th in Drive. After calling the dealer and them telling me that it was probably a cruise problem, I turned off the cruise and drove without it with the same results. I bought this car used with 19k miles; Is the transmission covered under warranty or are there any recalls on this?

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This van has 200,000 plus miles doesn't leak any fluids but it has a cruising speed miss, that sometimes seems to want to shut it down I have had it in several shops and a g m dealer ship, so far no one has been able to fix the problem, it has had plugs, wires, mass air, coils all changed at least twice, the fuel pressure is 50lbs when I bought the van it had 76 000 miles and it had a miss then and has continued to have the miss , I have not had the injectors replaced is there anything other than injectors that could cause this problem? at speeds of 65mph and above it miss,s badley.

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I have a 2010 Model S that has 38,000 miles on it. I am hearing a rattling in the front brakes when cruising along at almost all speeds. If i hold a little peddle pressure it goes away. Sounds like the pads are rattling to me. I am running the stock pads with about 45 to 50% remaining on them.

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Three days ago my Outback started making this grinding/rattling (hard to describe) noise when shifting and cruising at low speeds. Is this the clutch or the transmission? No trouble shifting though. I got rear-ended by a big Lexus SUV last week, but wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it. Just damaged the bumper a little.

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Ford Brakes/Suspension :: Front End Shakes At Cruising Speeds - Gear Box?

My e150 front end shakes at cruising speeds. Has brand new tires and the best balance wheels are up front. I got the van on jack stands check for play on the tie rods and ball joints it all seem to be good and tight.

The only I did notice was that the both wheels move quite a bit from side to side and the culprit is the gear box. I removed the drag link from the Pittman arm at gear box and then i was able to move the Pittman arm at the back and fourth about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch its not a bad Pittman arm cause the movements comes from the gear box itself.

Can that back and fourth movement be adjust by simply adjusting the Allen bolt and nut on the top side of the gear box?

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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8L with a M/T and 70K miles. For the last 6 months or so, I've found it hard to shift into 1st or 2nd gear when the car is in motion, even at slow speeds. When completely stopped, there is no problem shifting into any gear. I even had difficulty shifting into 2nd from 1st. Where to start troubleshooting?

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Flutter At Cruising Speeds And Erratic Idle

I've been having problems with hesitation and a flutter at cruising speeds as well as erratic idle. I have a 2000 F-250 SD with 497K Miles. I was having poor starts during florida winter ( had to plug in a couple times) Had no oil coming out of #2 inject and #8 buzz was weak. Flutter was there and was the original reason I started digging. Right now the only code Im throwing with my chip turned off is a P0470. I cleaned the tube and the sensor but its still throwing.

I have recently replaced all Injectors, Glow Plugs, Valve Cover Gaskets & Harnesses, CPS, Fuel Pump, ICP was replaced before new plug no oil showing.

Mods: 6637 Air Cleaner, TS-6 Chip

Truck has mad power now no problem starting. Its really starting to frustrate me Ford dealer wont troubleshoot unless I remove the chip. I feel like it should be something simple because on the throttle it will set you back in your seat cruising at 70+ no flutter ..... but slow down to 50 55 in traffic and let off the throttle when you start to ease back into it 1500 - 1800 "buck buck buck" if I monitor ICP pressure I see a fluctuation in psi of about 200 -300 psi (1400 to 1200 or 1000 to 800) . If I throttle harder it will stop or let off the throttle. I can feel it do it sometimes before the TC locks so I dont think its a TC issue. I even tested with OD off and I can recreate. The magic area appears to be 1500 - 2000 rpm....

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: While Cruising At Different High Speeds Jerks - EGR Valve Symptom?

,the symptom that I'm wondering about is that when the truck is cruising at different high speeds like 65 or 75 it starts to jerk/jolt, if I accelerate it goes away, or if I let off the accelerator.

Once I settle on a different cruising speed it does it again. There is no smoke out the exhaust pipe, it does not loses any power, I look at the RPM's and they don't move when the jerking/jolting starts. Truck runs fine except for this issue.

I do get the P0404 and P0405 codes which are for the EGR valve and the sensor. By the way **is there an EGR SENSOR** anywhere on this engine, I seen some posts where people refer to it as the EBP Sensor, is this correct? I cleaned the EGR valve, but it did not do anything to fix the issue. I'm thinking I damaged the valve when I cleaned it, but I would like to verify that this symptom could be the EGR valve before I buy a new one.

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Buick - Parkavenue :: 1995 - Occasional Miss When Cruising Along At Highway Speeds And Slightly Rough Idle

Got a strange one here. 1995 Buick Park Avenue, supercharged 3800, 159K miles... an older car, but an unmolested one. A little over a week ago I began to notice an occasional miss when cruising along at highway speeds, along with a slightly rougher idle. Both the fuel filter and the plugs/wires predated my ownership of the car (a little more than 6 months); so seeing no obvious culprit, I replaced them and hoped for improvement.

Unfortunately, neither had any impact. The missing continued to become more noticeable. It was never present under acceleration. Most of it was like a split-second long version of "bucking" that could be observed while cruising at lower (<2000) RPMs. It was also very noticeable at idle. Eventually a code was set: P0341, camshaft sensor issue. If the story had ended there, it would have been just another night in the garage. But it didn't.

As I was noticing the aforementioned symptom increase, I also noticed my voltmeter would occasionally "twitch" in the downward direction. Eventually I had an incident where I came to a stoplight... transmission in Drive, foot on brake, gauge dropped to around 10-11v. It returned to 14v momentarily, but dropped back down, held there for several seconds, returned, etc. No particular rhyme or rhythm. Of course my first guess was that the alternator was failing; a separate problem from the other.

I checked all the relevant connections (at the battery, at the alternator, etc), and cleaned them for good measure. All were tight, relatively clean, and the cables showed no resistance on the ohmmeter. It happened that I had another correct alternator on hand (used/working pull), so I swapped it in. No change. I reinstalled the original and was back where I started.

On my most recent drive, I noticed both issues had become very noticeable. The drop in voltage was happening at nearly every stop, and the missing was happening a few times per minute while coasting along. There seemed to be some correlation between the missing and voltage fluctuating, but it wasn't absolute.

I decided to attack the voltage issue again. Re-checked all the cables; same result as before (all OK). Looked all over the car for possible bad grounds, loose connections, or other visible problems, but found none. My next thought was to run a jumper from B+ to the voltage regulator's Sense input (have seen issues there on more than a few older vehicles) - but after reading that this car uses the PCM as the voltage regulator, I didn't proceed.

Just to be certain I'm going to have the alternator tested by the local auto parts store. But I suspect it'll pass.

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The issue is now I am afraid of any damage that may have been caused to the mech/clutch form the fluid getting low. Should I be worried about this and if so what should I do? I would think the shop should be responsible for any damage done to the car.

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Also when cold, I've had an issue with it stalling while taking off from a stop. I wouldn't necessarily relate the two problems, but someone mentioned they thought they might both be a symptom of a slipping torque converter or something. But the stalling issue seems to go away when it's warmed up.

Also had an issue with the van not wanting to start when damp. But I attributed this to water getting on the coil or plugs or something. What I could try before taking it to a shop and risking getting taken?

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Grill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.

Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.

Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.

At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.

My two questions:

For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?

At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.

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I travel on the highway frequently and when I am cruising at 115-120 km/h my gear consistently drops from 6th gear to 5th gear then back to 6th gear. I am not pressing hard on the gas just keeping it at a normal pressure. This is the 2016 Hyundai Santa Fe brand new only 6500km. I brought it to the dealership twice already and they found nothing wrong. Saying there are no error codes when scanned and when they drive it nothing happens.

On my second visit I showed them a video of what is happening. It was two minutes long and within the two minutes my gear down shifted 3 times. So you can imagine when I am long driving how many times this happens. In order to get around it I have to shift to tiptronic and leave it on 6 gear so I don't get this down shifting incident.

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Here's the question: To Flush or not to flush?

Mechanic #1 told me to never flush a transmission after 130k miles; instead, he said, I should take it to a specialist.
Mechanic #2 said a flush would be fine.

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Checked trans fluid, it was clean, red, full, and unburnt. No visual wires broken or chafed. No odd smells or sounds. Nothing noticeably hot. Truck hits 45mph max on flat ground. I limped it this way for 20 miles. If I push my foot to the floor to really force a downshift, engine will rev freely up to redline with no resistance once it downshifts. If I let the rpm drop down, it will catch and lock back in. Now when I come to a stop the truck has a very lopey and rough idle and will stall once I come to a complete stop. It will stay running if I give it gas. In neutral and park the engine still has a lopey idle and is rough. Will possibly die at times. Sounds smooth and perfect when you rev it in neutral or park. Reacts as it should with no hesitations. No check engine light and no flashing OD light. Will shift into all gears, just moves through them with no power. Let truck sit for 3 hours, issue remains.

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My car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 6 cylinder all wheel drive. Had an issue with the transmission continually dropping down a gear when keeping the car at about 35mph... no codes were showing nor any lights on the dash were on indicating a problem... dealer said the catalytic converter was the problem. changed it and it did not fix the problem...brought the car back to them and they said it now is showing a code and the service engine light is now on... the code showed that the Crank Sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor were bad... I asked why they had to change the cat and they explained

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