Passat (B6) :: Transmission Died - When Pushed Pedal Harder RPM Gauge Rev High
Dec 5, 2011
My transmission died last night on the way home from school. I was driving down the road just after leaving school and as I started to accelerate the car, I noticed that it wasn't moving so I pushed the pedal a little harder when I saw the rpm gauge rev. Up pretty high. The car was showing it was in 4 th gear and as I was slowing down so was the number on the display. I came to a stop and tried to move forward but noting. I had the car towed to the dealership so now the fun begins to see what is wrong with it.
I had the car in a few months ago for a whining sound coming from the car especially when I would put the car in reverse to back up. The dealer said we don't see anything wrong, go figure.
I'm suspecting that the transmission is shot. When the car was towed to the dealer I had to engage the parking break because the car wouldn't stay parked, it would roll even though it was in park.
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Lately, when first starting my car and after it’s been sitting for a while the gas pedal seems to be stuck.
When I push on it slightly it doesn’t move; but if I push a little harder it will make a noise and become free and movable. No further problems until it sits for a while or the next morning. Then the same stuck pedal. Exert a little pressure and it frees up.
I tried squirting WD40 on the linkage but it does no good. What could cause it to bind up? 2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0 ....
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Is it normal on the 2.0T that when you are driving and stop at a red light to get vibration that you can feel in the car and hear in the motor? As soon as you let off the break it stops and the engine stops the noise. I don't drive the car enough really (my wifes) to know if it is normal or if this just started. It is an 07 and just turned 12k on the weekend trip. Also, having a problem on Sat radio with there being a high pitch hum in the back ground? [IMG] [URL] ...
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My 331 ran good til it died driving down the road, won't start unless gas is pushed and cuts out immediately after starting, even if gas is pushed more. I know it's getting fuel cuz I can see it in my filter, brand new plugs.
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Ford Excursion ... Transmission gauge went to the High end of the scale - red. This was on drive home from work level ground through town. Shifts fine, fluid level is good, does not smell, looks good not brown or discolored.
Rechecked the fluid level again this morning and took it for a drive, went about 2 miles on freeway and it pegged to the hot side and the engine light & check engine light came on with the tow haul light blinking.
Waited about 20 minutes and thought about checking the filter lines to from the cooler back to transmission. Well the one line is warm the other three are relatively cool and the filter housing seems warmer than the three other lines.
Don't see any drips or leaks. No codes yet? What to check and or do?
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Automatic transmission died on my Variant at 100,450 miles. I did not expect to have this failure so soon, but I was pleasantly surprised that dealership replaced tranny for FREE without any questions asked, even having a fact that mileage on my car passed the covered limit.
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I have a 2002 F-350 6.8L, 4x4, crew cab, 8' bed, SRW, trailer tow pkg. I purchased it new in the fall of 2001. The truck currently has 54,000 miles on it (only gets used when I need to tow/haul something). It's kept in the garage and is in near showroom condition.
Everything on the vehicle is 100% functional except the transmission temperature gauge. Even when the truck sits for weeks, the needle will move to mid scale as soon as the key is switched on - haven't even started the engine yet! Put the scanner on it - no codes stored.
I'm attempting to trouble-shoot the TFT (transmission fluid temperature) sensor. Found some documentation online on the 4R100 transmission. It shows an electrical connector on the solenoid body with pins for the thermistor (so I can measure its resistance). However, I can't find a connector anywhere on my transmission that even remotely resembles the diagram I found online.
Question 1: When you first get in your vehicle and turn the key, does your tranny temp gauge read "cold" just like the engine temp gauge?
Question2: Does my truck have the 4R100 transmission? How can I verify that?
Question3: Looking for documentation on what connector and which pins are for the thermistor?
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I keep finding air every time i bleed my clutch. I am not losing fluid but i can not figure out whats causing my problems. The pedal is soft at first and then gets harder and it sometimes needs pumped before i change gears or to even get into gear. I am afraid its the slave but i also just may have air in the system.
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This is weird. SOmetimes my gas gauge fluctuates from low to high. I don't know how to explain it but it just bothers me thinking there might be a problem I'm not aware of. This also shows LCD display saying 190km left then after I start driving for a while it'll show 210km. [IMG] [URL] ....
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I just changed all my flex lines to stainless steel and my pads and rotors were replaced. I had some issues with calipers dragging. I used a power bleeder to bleed the brakes all the way around. Now my pedal feels really weird. If I push the pedal fast it brakes hard then it goes to the floor. If i just push it soft, it will just slowly go to the floor without braking at all.
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i have a 2013 golf r with about 2k miles. Say if I am in second gear and i kinda press the pedal a little harder then i usually do, i hear a weird noise. kinda sounding like a fake exhaust sound or some sort of vibration near where the e brake is. when i let go of the pedal the noise goes away. I know my description is terrible but its honestly a strange noise.
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Experienced a chatter in the clutch pedal with the a/c on when clutch pedal is pushed in. To me it feels like the throw bearing isn't disengaging the clutch fully, plus my clutch is kind of high once full disengage unless its normal.
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I have a Camry at 120K now. Front brake pads was placed at 85K and was told by the maintenance person at that time that brake rotors couldn't be resurfaced since they were close to the minimum thickness.
Braking seems still fine these days. I don't hear any high-pitched noise or feel obvious vibration/pulsation when the brake is applied. The brake pads are still within a good range of thickness as the last check was made a couple of months ago.
But the brake pedal is softer than before so that now I have push harder to get car stopped. It that a warning sign which indicates it is time to replace the brakes rotors and pads?
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Recently the brake pedal on my 2002 Prius has been a little harder to push for the first mm of travel it almost "sticks" requiring slightly more effort once it moves past that point it is normal no fading or extra effort required this problem has now progressed to the point where the pedal is kind of crunchy for the first 5mm of travel and occasionally will not return right away causing the brakes to drag a little but again pressure required to stop is exactly the same no fading etc
I am thinking since I live on 2 miles of dusty washboard dirt road and some grit has worked its way into the bushing .
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My clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
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My car had slowed down when I pushed the gas pedal. I had to get towed. White powder was on the face of engine. Car will not crank. It makes a humming sound. Kia 2004 spectra ex....
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I traded my 2007 Prius for the 2010 III Prius on 5/30. I had 5 wonderful days with it and on the 6th day, it started.
There is a loud creaking noise when the brake pedal is pushed and released.
The dealership contacted Toyota and did everything that was suggested to correct the problem and no luck.
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My less than 7000 miles RX started making noise when I pushed the brake pedal. Evidently it sounded like the "LS brake squawk" according to service foreman. Not sure if the actuator is same in all RXs.
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My girlfriends Toyota Echo has been giving her problems it seems. She says that it will randomly not respond to the pedal being pushed. She's not great with cars, but says she doesn't hear it revving. I was thinking dirty fuel filter, but I would think it would be running rough all the time if it was clogged? What it could be?
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Just got into my 2006 Sonata V6 this morning. 120,000 miles. Drove last night, no problems. Started her up now this morning, noted check engine light and ESC lights on.
Pushed accelator pedal, no increase in RPMS at all. Put the car in gear (auto), car moves forward and backward, but pressing the pedal doesn't increase the rpms at all, so right now its not driveable. Luckily, its in the driveway so I know it could be worse. Took floor mat out, no interference issue there.
I changed the starter solenoid and that was over 45,000 miles ago. Never had that problem.
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So a few days ago the family and I were on a road trip. After driving for close to three hours we ran into a problem. We were doing about 75, which is about 3000 rpms with the 4.6L, When we dropped from 3k to about 400 and started to lose speed. I pushed the gas peddle all the way to the floor and no response at all. I pulled over and it had a very rough and choppy idle and it wanted to die. It eventually did. I checked all fuses with nothing found and i even hit the fuel pump shutoff reset. It started back up no problem and we got about 5 miles before it the exact same thing. Idle at about 400 rpms and no throttle response at all.
I shut it off and called a tow truck. It started up and they drove it onto the back of the tow truck and off at the local mechanic. They spent 2 whole days trying to diagnose it and even drove it for 4 hours straight, no issues. They pressure checked every system they could and tested every sensor they could. They could not find a single thing wrong with it. I drove it home 3 hours away with no issues. I got home and let it sit for about 10 minutes before I had to leave. I didn't make it more than 2 miles before the same issue popped up. I pulled over. Shut it off for 15 minutes and it started right up and drove home.
It threw 4 codes.
1. Pressure control solenoid malfunction
2. Fuel pump Primary circuit malfunction
3. Gear 3 ratio incorrect
4. Gear 4 Ratio incorrect
I've had 2 mechanics tell me its a PCM issue.
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