So my 4motion downshifts going downhill while braking...it's annoying as hell! My DSG used to do the same thing but being a faster tranny it was actually NOT annoying... Is there a way to reflash the tranny software? Maybe with an older code because my 06 didn't do this but my 08 does...
View 5 RepliesAbout a month ago I bought a 2013 Passat TDI SE (with the automatic transmission) and have noticed that if you let off the accelerator in order to coast up to a stop light, the car will gradually decrease speed at a seemingly steady rate right up until about 15 MPH. Then you get an aggressive engine braking sensation and it feels like the car is about to come to a complete stop. After it drags down to about 10 MPH the braking feel will "release" and the car will lunge forward.
Is this normal? I have my re-check scheduled for this Saturday so I had planned to ask about it.
The cruise control on my 2013 works as I expected.
However the cruise control on my 2016 Sonata does not.
When driving at highway speeds (65 to 70 mph) in cruise control and the shifter set on "D" (drive) the transmission will down shift to 4th speed whenever I go down hill.
This might be intentional as a way to keep the car from exceeding the set speed, but I have never heard of this and it would seem to place more wear an tear on the transmissions.
Do the down shifting is engineered in or if it is a service problem that I need to have addressed...
I have a 91 735i, 4sp auto, 3.5lt. Usually around constant speed of 40-45 the tranny will downshift then up then downshift an sometimes it will downshift to 2nd which scares me thinking it might downshift to 1st an explode the engine or tranny. If I engage cruise control it does not downshift. This does not happen all the time but when it does it can be very severe with jerking and slamming into an out of gear. The trans has a dipstick and the fluid does not look bad. I replaced head gasket and it was doing great for about a month and then poof the downshifting started.
View 1 RepliesVery strange issue today. While driving in stop and go traffic (Auto Sport Mode). I noticed the car was starting in 2nd gear. Next stop I switched over to M and it would still not downshift to 1st even with the paddles or shifter. Once I started moving I could manually downshift just fine. Car seemed to shift normal. Eventually got the VSC / CEL . Here are the codes:
Pending:
PO301 - CYL 1 Misfire
C3101 - no details
C3411 - no details
C3000 - no details
Historical:
P0A11 - DC/DC Converter Enable circuit open
All of the codes cleared and did not reappear while idling. I have not driven the car yet. It also goes back into 1st now while stopped although I haven't tested coming to a stop. Will do that tomorrow
One thing to note that was out of the ordinary today. For some reason I was absolutely freezing (which should be impossible this time of year in SC) so I turned the AC off before this started and the idle dropped very low (400 - 500) which I seem to remember being normal but I almost never run with my AC compressor off unless I'm in race mode and I'm usually not putting along in stop and go traffic if that is the case. Not sure if this has anything to do with it but perhaps the low idle caused a voltage issue which tripped the codes.
The car is a 2010 Corolla S with about 85K miles, I bought used in Jan 2015. This problem mostly happens when I am using the cruise control. I will be going up a hill at about 65 and regularly but not always the trany will downshift with a very hard "bang" like running over a pipe. It will make the shifts in a normal smooth manner at other times going up hills in cruise control. This hard shift is very abrupt and startling if not ready for it. In can do this when not in cruise control if at highway speed in accelerate to pass but not as consistent. It has not done it at in town driving.
I took it to the dealer, as I had a warranty, and took the tech for a ride so he could feel it. I was told the next day the warranty company says this is "normal" behavior. I do not believe this to be normal.
I just recently bought an 06 Santa Fe with a 2.7l v6. It was a rebuild. It had been hit in the left wheel. The lot put a new fender, suspension parts, axle, etc. It only has 25k actual miles.
We took it on a 100 mile trip today. I noticed if I am going up hill and it has to downshift, it feels like it looses power. The car continues to slow... Like the tranny is slipping. I stopped at Walmart and found the tranny fluid wouldn't even register on the dipstick. I bought Valvoline max life tranny fluid that matches the sp3 specs in the manual. I had to add almost 3 quarts before it was full. I think they may have forgot to add fluid back to replace what leaked out after they replaced the axle It didn't seem to work though when I continued to drive. After I stopped and let it cool about 30 minutes, it did seem a little better.
I guess my question is should I replace the tranny fluid? If so, what should I replace it with? Is there anything else what could be causing this now?
I have a 2009 2.4/auto with 32000...original owner...just noticed a weird tranny issue develop over this past cold week in NY...when coming to a slow stop the trans will harsh shift as it down shifts from 2 to 1...
View 8 RepliesRight now my husband and I are driving from San Luis Obispo Ca to LA and back in a day. We noticed right before the grape vine on the I5 that the engine was really working, even on flat ground. Looked at the battery and it was purple. We have been driving for about 2 hours averaging about 70mph on mostly flat land. The battery finally charged itself on the big downhill of the grapevine (I5) but we're noticing we're running right through it again unless we start to break more. So, it's not getting any recharge during driving, just breaking. Can it be the generator? What causes this?
View 5 RepliesI have noticed a couple times now on my Automatic S that the engine keeps revving an additional 1,000 - 2,000 rpms when I am braking going down a hill. Is this normal? It doesn't occur on flat roads or going uphill, but only downhill. It's almost as if it downshifts when I brake. Not sure if this is normal or not, but it just didn't feel right.
View 3 RepliesI've been mostly content with my Prius Plug-in for nearly a year now. But, as a driver very consciously aware of what my car is doing, I have many complaints concerning the internal combustion engine igniting when not needed, or remaining on for far too long. I do my best to work around them, but I feel the need to enumerate my complaints and vent about them. Note I live in southern California where cold weather is extremely rare, and I consciously don't use the heater or AC.
ICE ignites when braking downhill on a full charge. I've heard users say this is necessary because if the battery is full, regenerative braking will overcharge the battery.
ICE ignites if I step on the accelerator ever so slightly too hard. I understand that Toyota claims it needs to use ICE to deliver the extra power to the wheels asked for by the driver, but I just don't believe that. The engine usually simply idles and does not power the wheels at all when this happens, meanwhile the wheels are still running on 100% EV power. I know this because I've become in tune to exactly when the ICE powers the wheels and when it's not. The easiest sign of ICE actually powering wheels is when the accelerator begins to vibrate and I hear the ICE rev up. The second sign is by watching the MPG meter. If you're cruising at something like 50 MPH, and the ICE is idling, you'll see it getting about 80-90 MPG. When it actually supplies useful power, it suddenly drops down to 50 or below.
ICE ignites if the car moves faster than 65 MPH. This seems totally arbitrary to me. For example, it does not matter if you're accelerating steep downhill in neutral, or on a level highway just very slowly accelerating past 65. You can watch the power meter the whole time, and even if it doesn't get anywhere near the (power) section to the far right, the ICE still ignites as soon as you hit 66. In those situations, why does it even think it needs any extra power? And to top it all off, all it really does is idle for at least a minute anyway.
The ICE runs only momentarily, but here's the kicker: If you immediately let go of the accelerator, decelerate to below 65 MPH, or even come to a full stop at a red light, the ICE still continues to run for at least a minute or two. Worse still, it idles for about a minute regardless of speed or power, then suddenly decides that it should power the wheels for a few seconds even if no variables have changed, and it does this for about 30 seconds more before finally deciding to suddenly pop back into pure EV mode. How you work around all of this? Stop at a red light, shut off the car, and restart it. As it powers on, it stays in EV mode, proving to you that it never needed to be sitting there idling in the first place.
I have a 1995 Oldsmobile 98 sedan with engine braking problems. It has the 3800 engine (complete with a slight intake manifold leak, as per the GM custom) and low miles. I recently moved from the midwest to the west coast, where this battleship encountered real mountains for the first time on the road trip west. Driving into Yellowstone NP from Cody, Wyoming I encountered a particularly hilly stretch of US highway that had a steep grade and plenty of curves down the hill.
I took the car out of overdrive and put it down a gear to let the engine braking assist. Nothing happened. The car continued to speed up with no assistance from the engine, even in 2nd, which should have held me at around 45-50. To test this on the next big drop, I started at the top from a full stop, and in first gear. I should have been walking down the mountain, but instead the car kept speeding up to around 40 and 4000 rpms before I relented and shifted up.
Is this a transmission problem? Or would the lack of engine braking downhill but no transmission problems when tooling around town elsewhere indicate something else? Maybe a vacuum leak?
Have a 2011 Toyota Sienna with about 50k. Ive been having this problem for over a year but was not very noticeable. But in the last several months, the shudder has increased and the car shakes a good deal when I brake downhill.
The problem does not happen on a flat surface or downhill.
I did some online search and some seem to point to warped brake rotors. Is that likely? Also more importantly, how dangerous is it to drive more in this condition? From where we live we need to negotiate steep downhill every day.
My 2002 v6 camry is shaking while braking on a downhill at highway speed 60mph. This started yesterday. Afterwards on level surface and lower speed no shaking. Late yesterday, again on highway downhill, more shaking.
I live on a mountain and do not notice the shaking coming down at 30mph, including yesterday.
A couple of months ago the pads were 75% and the rotors were resurfaced approx 4000 miles ago. And the rotors are the third pair if i remember correctly.
I bought the car new and it has 121000 miles on it.
I have 2011 RX AWD and noticed when driving downhill and braking, car will shake. It feels like the wheels are shaking but the steering wheel does not. Is it rotors or something else?
Also RX is certified pre owned warranty for another 30k miles and I want to do alignment on it but not sure if warranty will cover that ?
I drive a 2005 Ford Explorer (automatic) with 84k miles on it. Recently when I was driving on cruise control at 35 mp/h down a hill and applied the breaks to make a turn, the engine completely shut off. The lights came on, the power steering went off, the engine had shut off. I pulled over, turned the key off, turned it back on and it started no problem. I drove it for 3 days without problems (and without using cruise control of course), then I took the car to a shop. They ran diagnostics on it, test drove it, but couldn't find anything wrong with the cruise control or the transmission. I don't think they tested this driving downhill as the shop is not in a hilly area. Tonight, I went down the same road again, 35 mp/h in cruise control, slowed down for the same turn, and the engine shut off again exactly the same way it did before. What this could be?
View 7 RepliesCuriosity question. I've noticed that on a downhill of a couple miles, especially in "braking" mode or with the cruise control on, the motor/generator and engine are used to keep the speed down and the battery gets charged to the very top quite quickly. That's good!
On a really long downhill, will the motor/generator still be used for braking and the excess electricity discarded to keep from overcharging the battery?
I'm a new owner to my first 4x4 vehicle. My vehicle is a 2007 f150 xlt. Today while I was driving into work I had my vehicle in 4wd high. As I was going down hill I let off the gas and started braking. When all of a sudden my 4wd drive switched into neutral. I am wondering what could cause this to happen and whether it's an issue or not? It is snowing which was my purpose for being in 4wd.
View 9 RepliesGS350 ... The behavior is such that under hard braking, the transmission struggles to get into 1st gear from any speed to 0 MPH. Only happens under hard braking. Basically it feels like the tranny is slow in getting back to first. If im driving at 40 and brake hard to 0, once i stop, the tranny feels like its still getting into 1st for the next 2 seconds and then it hurches confirming it has reached 1st gear.
The second behavior is that when I am driving at 70 MPH or any speed, and i brake hard to reduce speed 10-15 mph, the rpms will go from its normal 70MPH Rpm ~2000 RPM and drop to idle speed around 500RPM while the car is still at 60 mph.
Link " [URL] .....
I went to a friend's house uphill without switching gears. I stayed on drive the whole time. RPM did not exceed 4000. It went a little over 3000 while driving 40 mph. I didn't floor the gas pedal. I'd say the hill going up was pretty steep. I didn't realize how steep it was. Any way what gear should I switch to when I go downhill? I drive a 99 Passat 1.8t.....
View 3 RepliesDo the dsg Transsmissions have something built in, when you go down hill the rpm shoots at 3k'ish rpm. It's like when you down shift if you were driving stick. Soon as I went flat road went back to normal. Is this normal??
View 6 Replies