Typically after driving for 5 minutes or so my temp gauge is in the middle at 200f. After about 15 min of moderate 35-45 mph driving it went down a notch below the 200 mark after it had reached 200f. I've noticed this happen a few times recently. I did notice that it happens while coasting downhill. I guess i'll be taking it it to my mechanic to take a look.
View 18 Replies So my temperature gauge started fluctuating from low to mid-gauge reading and it does not matter if at idle or driving. It never goes above mid-range or reads hot. I have had my diagnostic tool connected while monitoring the ECT in real time and my temp reads 180-195. Also there are no codes and everything else is running normal.
I have searched other threads and the only thing that was mentioned was changing the temp sensor but they also had the issue where the diagnostic tool also showed the temp fluctuating.
I have a 2010 Chrysler 300 Signature Series. I have taken it to 3 mechanics re: this issue but no one can find anything wrong. For work I park in a 5 story parking structure. When I'm leaving and driving our of the structure, "downhill" , I coast slowly between the turns and when I lightly put my foot on the accelerator to drive around the corners/turns there is a loud "clunk" and you can feel a little "jerk" in the car. It happens everyday but the mechanics can't reproduce the sound or the jerk. What this can be? It has happened only twice when on a flat surface, again in the parking lot, when I'm slowly coasting looking for a spot and then give it a little gas to drive forward.. the "clunk" and "jerk".
View 4 RepliesThis is on a 2010 GTI with 20K km.
I've noticed a buzzing noise coming from the front of the car whenever I coast downhill. Almost sounds like an off-tune radio. Noise gets louder as the car picks up speed, and becomes quieter as I brake. What can it be? I think I was in 3rd gear.
During an extended drive of the new ride today, we noticed an intermittent vibration when coasting downhill around 60MPH. I popped it in neutral and the vibration disappeared completely. Also, it stayed vibration-free when placed back in Drive, without touching the gas. But as soon as throttle is applied and then you coast again, the vibration reappears.
This points to a condition that only happens when the torque converter is locked, which could be a vibration originating within the transfer case that once coupled to the engine via the locked torque converter uses the engine as a tuning fork, resulting in the vibration. The L-SB-0013-12 AWD Vibration TSB mentions an ECM recalibration, which likely changes the torque converter to unlock whenever you lift off the gas pedal. Is this correct?
I also remember reading about the other TSB, where the "magic expensive fluid" in the transfer case gets changed 3 times in rapid succession. This would address chattering clutches within the transfer case, eliminating vibration at the source vs. masking it by unlocking the torque converter.
We also noticed a misfiring sensation under light throttle conditions at around 40-50MPH. I'm wondering if this is in fact the transfer case clutch chatter issue also...since the 60k spark plug replacement has already been done.
So our car has performed flawlessly since 2005/135K miles. Still getting 55 mpg in the display in the summer, 45 mpg in the winter. Only issue is traction battery SOC quickly goes to full green when coasting downhill, and 1 or 2 purple bars when climbing. In Colorado, this happens a lot. Within a mile or so coasting downhill the SOC is full green. Question is: should I replace the traction battery? Is there any harm to continuing to experience this behavior? When full green, I realize I am using friction braking over regen braking, have actually felt the crossover from regen to the pads, as the SOC goes full green.
View 4 RepliesThe following issue has been stumping every mechanic that I have talked too. We have a 1948 Chevy with a 350 ram Jet and 700 R-4 transmission. The water temp while on the road runs about 180, and up to 195 in town. The following is the problem. When coasting down a hill it will periodically quit, like the key was turned off. I have to through it in neutral, start it, and then put in drive while rolling. It never has done it at idle, on straight a ways, or up hill. No, I can’t avoid going down a long hill sometimes.
View 18 RepliesI got my grandpa's 84 ford f250 its been sitting in the barn for awhile but i drove it over to my house yesterday and it drove fine but you did have to push on the brake quite a bit but not to bad but today after school i took it for a drive around the block and i noticed that when i was going down hill just coasting i was slowing down a lot and my foot was not on the brake but when i got home my breaks were smoking pretty good but tomorrow i was going to take the front breaks off (its only the front two disk breaks doing this) and clean all the rust off them and put a little oil on the piston on the caliper that pushes on the break pads...
View 1 RepliesI am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 Passat GLX VR6 and the temperature gauge basically works when it wants to. Of course the darn thing works when I take it to the dealer to get checked.
View 3 RepliesRecently (3 months ago) I had the timing belt, thermostat , water pump changed . Just yesterday I noticed that the engine temperature gauge was all the way to the left and did not seem to be functioning. I do not know if it had been like this for the 3 months since the maintenance work....maybe not. But, the guage is not working.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2012 Passat 2.0 TDI (140) DSG
Sometimes the engine temperature stays low for an entire drive. Regardless of speed - it has happened while sitting in traffic for hours or while sitting at 70mph.
When this is happening, the engine temperature gauge will go up and down, but never reach 90, and the oil temperature reading fluctuates from around 60 to 80. Also the air into the car doesn't get hot enough, but now we're out of winter that doesn't matter too much.
But then other days it will be 100% fine - it rises up to 90 within 10 minutes of a cold start and stays there the whole day - and the oil temperature sits between 90 and 100.
I've taken it to a couple of VW dealers but obviously it behaves perfectly on those days! I remember reading something about a thermostat that circulates coolant to the DSG box, which can cause these kinds of symptoms?
I just picked up a 2004 1.8T 5 speed 4 motion. It drives well, however i noticed some bugs. For one, the temperature gauge seems to bounce up and down a bit. I check the vag, and the car never gets abobe 75c, and usually sits around 70c when im cruising on the highway. So i changed the green top sensor to start, and I think it may be wrong, cause now the engine fan always stays on, and the temp problem is still there. SO now I have this fan issue, and still a temp problem. Did I change the wrong sensor totally? Is it my thermostat?
View 13 RepliesI have a 96' ranger that has been missing quite regularly. The vehicle has over 200,000 miles on it, but has been taken care of regularly by me since 75,000.
Problem: When I start the vehicle, the engine takes a little bit to find the idle. It spits and fumbles around some until it finds a somewhat rough idle. Often, when I first start driving in the morning, the vehicle really jumps around due to misfiring. Even after running smoothly for awhile, the vehicle with sporadically misfire with no rhyme or reason. This is particularly true when climbing a grade. When sitting at a red light and idleing in gear, you can definitely feel the truck shaking from side to side. Also, when idling in gear, the battery gauge on the dash fluctuates, but when the vehicle is in park the battery gauge doesn't fluctuate...it just idles a little rough.
I had the Ranger to a garage and had them check the battery and alternator connections and ground to try and figure out what is making the battery gauge fluctuate...alternator and battery checked out...no diagnosis for fluctuation.
I replaced all plugs and wires and also checked the coil pack. One of the coils (#6) had some build-up in the top. I cleaned it out and replaced all the plug wires and everything snapped in place and fit fine.
The garage did tell me that an error code came up with the EGR valve and or sensor. They didn't seem to concerned about it. Do the EGR valve could be the cause of all the stuttering and misfiring going on with the ranger? I really don't know where else to look. Maybe replace the coil pack?
02 Passat 4Motion with the 3.0L V6. I just had the car at the dealer 2 weeks ago for the 50K service and to have the temperature gauge fixed. Otherwise, the car was running just fine. At the service, they replaced the water temp sensor, performed a fuel injector service and radiator flush (both recommended).
Now two weeks later, her car rough idles, dies and has to be towed to the same dealership. They first diagnose fouled plugs which they replace gratis. They then tell me the plugs fouled because the ignition coil and wires have gone bad and need to be replaced. They want to do an additional injector/intake cleaning service. They are offering to discount the services slightly. I'm still going to be out another $850.
I called Volkswagen Customer Service and they confirmed that the ignition coils were not covered under the recall.
Something sounds "off" to me. The car was running fine before the initial service. Was the dealer just being "nice" in comparing the plug replacement or did he think that they initial fuel injector service may have fouled the plugs? I don't really want to pay 2x for the same service and now the coil/wire replacement.
For the past two days, the coolant temperature gauge has registered cold (far left) all of the time. Just the day before, it registered about center when the engine warmed up, it's typical location.
The vehicle seems to run just fine, and the coolant level looks good. Is it safe to drive it to a shop (~35 miles) to be fixed?
I have a 2003 Passat and the engine temperature gauge will read 190 normally and then suddenly drop to almost zero, stay there for a while then head back up.
I purchased a temp sensor to replace the old but for the life of me I can seem to locate it. I know it's in the back or rear of the engine somewhere.
BTW, the car has the 1.8 engine.
Last fall I had my radiator flushed and at the same time my coolant overfill canister with built in temperature guage sensor was replaced with a new unit. (The service station replaced the resevoir canister with a new unit in the engine compartment, because they felt the sensor is prone to failing after 7 years.)
Ever since, my temperature gauge needle on the dash will randomly drop (even when the car is up to FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURES) showing the engine being cooler than it out to be. In other words the needle drops signifying to a much lower water temperature. After a period of time the needle will recover back to the normal full operating temperature mark on the dash gauge.
What could cause this? Inside my radiator do I have a "diafram" temperature valve that could be failing /"sticking?" In other words could a temperature valve in the radiator be sticking at odd or random times??? I also notice that my heater does not put out the usual full furnace heat that a Passat is know for. The temperature is about 1/3 cooler now that we are into winter temperatures.
Is my heater core clogged?
Could the new coolant sensor in the new coolant overfill chamber not be working well? This whole situation began AFTER my radiator was flushed, and AFTER I had the coolant reservoir canister and sensor replaced.
I have a '99 1.8T Passat. The coolant temperature gauge normally reaches operating temperature of 190 degrees within about 5 minutes and stays there. For some reason, after reaching 190, it sometimes drops by 20-30 degrees and is running cooler than normal. Once time it dropped down, then came back up again, while driving a steady 65 mph. The coolant level is full and nothing else has changed.
I guess there are a few possibilities: a thermostat stuck open too far, a failing temperature sensor, bad gauge, or loose connection at the sensor. The car has 145K miles and the thermostat and water pump were replaced at about 100K miles. What is going on? If it runs a little too cool, is that a big deal? How would I diagnose it? Where is the temperature sensor?
Just about every trip i take my temp gauge pegs and dinger goes off and check gauges lights up in the message center. It eventually will go back to normal or if i shut key off and restart truck it goes to normal. im guessing it is the temperature sensor for the gauge but not sure?? If it is, where is the gauge sensor located?
View 14 RepliesMy 04 F 350 started with a check gauge light while going down hill towing an 18 ft car hauler full of mulch. Did it for 5 seconds, then when we got to our land and I was getting ready to back up it did it again. and this time my oil pressure gauge was at zero. I shut her down. checked the oil. its full. Drive home everything is good. Today I'm getting fuel pressure gauge going nuts. 80 to 100 PSI. at idle no oil pressure and the check gauge light. but the engine is still running. Oil was changed 4K ago. fuel filters same. Where to start looking?
View 5 Replies