Passat (B6) :: Tapping Sound - MPGs Are Low (22)?
Jan 31, 2011
I had the whole follower issue and the dealer replace the fuel pump, follower and intake cam. Then I got a terrible tapping sound a couple of days later. So I brought my car back and after two weeks and a new rocker and intake cam I was back in action.
But I drove the car yesterday noticed the on board MPG delta gauge was saying I average 22mpg through 1/3 of a tank. It was mostly 45 mph roads and some highway at 75-80 mph. I figured I should be getting closer to 27-28 at those speeds.
2.0T auto wagon. stock tires with 38psi all around.
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I have a 2006 2.0tdi and when driving at over 40 mph I get a kind off tap tap tap . If I put a little pressure on the clutch you really can feel the tapping. If I take the car out of gear the tapping goes. If I rev the engine whilst stationary no tapping. I figured it might be a worn spline on the driveshaft? I've taken it to the local vw dealer 3 times and they can't find anything.
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I've been noticing a tapping sound coming from the rear driver's side of the car recently, and it's only when idling after the car has warmed up. Someone has said that it may be the Leak Detection Pump located above the wheel well in the rear driver's side of the car. My question is does the tapping sound mean that it's going bad?
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I have a 2001 1.8t tip wagon(75k) that that is starting to worry me. It makes a tapping sound (coming from back of valve cover) AFTER it is warmed up at idle. When the RPMs go over 1,000, the sound goes away. Is this the cam chain adjuster or tensioner??? Also, when the engine first starts up it makes a similar noise , only louder, for the first couple of seconds.
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Every time I go over a bump I hear a tap. It comes from both sides, on the left it feels like it's coming from the wheel well area.
I hear it going over speed bumps, usually those wide and gentle ones, but not small and sharp bumps that jar the entire car.
I associate it with that instant when the suspension gets unloaded, i.e. going over a smooth bump I'd hear it around the time the bump slopes down and the suspension gets unloaded for an instant.
I have new Quickstruts with retrofitted oem springs. The ride height is normal. New swaybar bushings and no apparent play when the car is on the lift. Also, the car is in near perfect alignment, did it a couple of days ago.
So...what is the likely culprit. Sway bar links perhaps? They do have ball-joint like ends, perhaps these are worn. Could it be that they appear solid on a lift because they are under load at that time?
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Ever since I had Quickstruts installed on the front I have been getting a tapping sound going over the bumps and such. I think it happens when going over something combined with the steering input, such as pulling out of a parking lot onto the main road. If I just go over a bump with wheels straight, no sound.
Can't replicate the noise by rocking the front end by hand.
The sway links appear tight, no vertical movement. I have a reman rack and pinion since last year along with new outer tie rods. Sway bar bushings maybe?
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I just had a magnaflow catback installed a few days ago and on the way home I noticed a vibrating/tapping sound that happens only at 70mph and up. There were absolutely no noises before the exhaust install (the car only has 6,000 miles on it). The sound seems to be coming from within the dashboard or in the engine bay along the midline of the car.
The installer did have to yank quite a bit to remove the stock catback unit.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai accent. Bought the car used at a lien sale over 3 years ago, with about 120k miles on it... it now has over 197k miles on it. I have changed the oil and filter religiously since I bought it, using Castrol GTX High mileage 5w30 synthetic motor oil. I have also (in the last year) replaced the plugs with platinum plugs, the plug wires, and the air filter. A the car has always made a tapping sound when idling since I bought it, but recently (in the last week), it makes little shoemaker sounds when I accelerate. I used to associate this with detonation and adjust timing (back in the day when you could put a timing light on a car and turn the distributor to set timing). Since timing is now controlled by the computer in the car, am I right in assuming that I need to replace the timing belt?
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I have a 2008 with a tapping sound from engine - Sounds kinda like a diesel engine when cold. Not real loud.
It stops once the engine is warmed up. Is that most likely a tappet?
88,000 miles... I bought it two months ago with an extended warranty.
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I've got a clicking in my car right now, it's not a constant noise, but only after I've been driving awhile without using my brakes. Slowly gets louder and louder. Goes away completely when I put my brakes on for a second and starts again when I let off of the brakes. Its speed related, so its quicker when I'm going faster.
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I"m getting a tapping sound coming from the dash. It happens every time I start the car(hot or cold engine) and lasts for about 10 seconds. It also happens when I adjust the fan speed for the heater/AC, NOT when I first turn the blower motor on. The noise was completely gone after I removed the heater fuse.
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I have a 2010 Accent. My Accent has a tapping sound when the engine is cold. I have read on this site that others have had this problems and it was the chain tensioner. I was wondering if this was something Hyundia would fix for free or how much it cost to get this fixed. Is there a recall for this problem? There appears to be a problem with a chain tensioner on the 2010 model of Accent.
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2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T
Every time I press the brake pedal a buzzing sound can be heard. Every single time. Without fail. Moving or parked.
I just had the tranny rebuilt and it's possible something was broken or unplugged. I've done a search on google and can't find anything specific. I'm thinking something to do with ABS. Problem started a week ago when it came back from the rebuild.
I'll try to get a video and post. Was funny at first. Now it's annoying.
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Car & History:- 99 Jetta, 2.0 AEG engine, manual. 86,000 miles. Bought at 70,000 miles 3 years ago.- low oil warning once in 2013 maybe. since been using 5w-40 synthetic and used Ceratec additive once. Been doing regular oil changes.- replaced original fuel filter at 80,000 mi- gaskets have been going. Replaced thermostat and gasket. Replaced leaking oil cooler gasket. Valve cover gasket has been leaking for at least 1 year. Will replace.- Replaced timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and serpentine belt at 84,000 miles.- Flushed radiator at 84,000 miles.- All break rotors and pads at 80,000 miles- Replaced battery at 75,000 miles- Gas mileage: 26mpg
Problem:- the sound is similar to a tapping. This has been going on for a year or more.- very noticeable and loudest when cold- worse in the lower gears- diminishes once warmed up (5 minutes)- happens only under load - so 5th gear and letting off the gas pedal (coasting) it's not noticeable.- JUST TODAY: 20 degrees F, and wouldn't start on first try. Cranked for 6 seconds probably. Second time I turned the key, it started no problem.
Things of note:- By peaking behind the engine, it looks as though the oxygen sensor wire covering (pre cat) is getting a little frayed at one spot.- When I bought it I noticed new spark plug wires.
My thoughts:- Exhaust manifold gasket (to the head) is bad. So when it gets warm the bad gasket expands and stops the noise.- It's not the valve lifters because the noise goes away when warm and not really heard when gas pedal isn't engaged.- Replace the O2 sensor?
Attachments:- 3 audio files. I put my car under my hood and went for a drive. You can hear when I engage the clutch, the ticking sort of goes away. - Pictures of the frayed O2 sensor wire ...
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I bought a 2009 F-150 King Ranch a few months back. It has 125k miles on it and the only aftermarket thing on it is some larger tires. I love the truck but twice now (at two totally different driving instances) I have started hearing this bad sounding tap in the engine. The majority of the time it has ONLY been when I am in drive or reverse. I can especially hear it if I am going through a drive through. Anyways as I was backing into a parking space today it started making an even louder tapping sound. I recorded it and have provided the link to youtube..
It continued to make this terrible sound until I revved it slightly and then it went back to normal idle. This all started as I was in reverse backing up but this is the first time it has continued even into neutral. Really hoping for not terrible news on this. Ive read about the cam phaser issue and nothing has been done to those yet. It is the 5.4L and a 4x4. How to fix this and not have a clunker for a truck...
Here is the link to the youtube video of the truck running... it was too large to be uploaded on here : [URL] .....
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I have 109,000 miles on my 2007 es350, bought in May 2006.
This weekend, I drove 2 hours, stopped for a few minutes, then when I started the car there was no sound from speakers. Just 2 tapping noises from right rear speaker. Turning the radio off, then on I only heard the 2 pop sounds.
I left the radio on even though no sound. Monday night, starting the car for the 3rd time that day, the speakers worked. The next morning the speakers did not work. Now I just hear the 2 tapping noises, when the car is started or radio turned off/on, then nothing.
This happened twice before, once last year and once 4 weeks ago. Both times, the speakers started working the next day.
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I have this light tapping sound that I don't believe is native to the otherwise healthy Prius II I'm currently driving. Mine is a 2007 Prius II with about 106,000 miles. The sound occurs persistently when the vehicle is ON but the engine is not running and the ventilation system is off. If I press down on the brake pedal I hear a light tapping similar to tappets in older cars.
But since the engine is not running at this point I don't think the problem is there. If I let up almost all the way on the brake the noise goes away. I bought this car with 103,000 so I know there may be things that I need to tend to. I'm not experiencing any braking problems. I'd rather have some idea of what's making this sound before I check with a mechanic and incur a few hundred dollars of expense.
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We have a 2005 Avalon that was leaking oil from the oil pan about 8 months ago. Took it into a local shop and they pulled the engine and repaired the leak; everything seemed normal. Fast forward to a couple of months ago and the engine started developing a tapping sound from the valve cover. Over the span of 2 months, the tapping had become significantly more pronounced. It went from barely audible to HOLY $#!% we can hear it from inside the cabin at freeway speeds.
We finally took it to the dealer and the problem was so much worse than we were expecting. They only pulled the front valve cover, but two of the hydraulic lifters had a ton of play in it and there were very large flakes of metal in the oil. They also found whopping amounts of RTV along the seam where the timing chain cover attaches. And it was a ton! You could see goops of orange stuff all over the inside of the timing chain cover seam. While Toyota wasn't able to find the exact cause, the working (and very likely) theory is that the excess RTV broke off and blocked some of the oil ports (and possibly did damage to the pump), thereby starving the engine of oil and causing excessive metal on metal wear.
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It is a 2002 or 2003 Chevy truck with a diesel engine. He was going down the road the other day under normal driving conditions when the motor made a racket and then white smoke started coming out of the back like a chimney. The truck will still crank and run (and smoke), and now there is a knocking or tapping noise that is coming from the engine. The engine is running kind of rough, and has the tapping or knocking sound, but it will calm down for 1/2 a second at which time the rough idle and noise stop, but quickly return. There is no engine code showing, so my code reader is useless. I once had a Chevy 350 with a spun main bearing that sounds similar, but the motor didn't idle rough or smoke. I don't know enough about diesel engines. I was told there was a possibility of a bad injector pump or bad injector itself. Is there any way of testing this yourself, or does it require a shop trip?
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So my 2014 Elantra makes a tapping/ticking sound on cold starts which stays audible after the oil gets up to temp for at least until about 10 minutes of driving. I've heard this noise since I bought the car and of course kept searching all over the forums but everyone seems to have a different opinion as to what causes it and if it's normal or not. I finally decided to drop my car off at the dealer overnight so they could start in the morning and diagnose it. They listened, ran some tests on the engine and said everything was fine, nothing was damaged and that the sound is from the second fuel pump that is located over the engine.
They tested my fuel and said it's making the sound because I'm using a heavy fuel quality, then the tech told me I should run a fuel cleaner every other time I fill the car up. This seems excessive to me? I only fill my car up with Shell gas and avoid discount places which the tech agreed that Shell gas should be fine. I only have 22k miles on the car do I really need to be running cleaners every other tank of gas? Also wondering if using non ethanol gas would fix this problem. I did run 1 tank of non-ethanol but didn't notice a difference and since non-ethanol costs more than premium I went back to regular. I will try a fuel cleaner though?
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I bought a use 2009 Matrix S 2.4L (2AZ-FE) with about 81000 miles on it. when the car is at idle i hear a light tapping sound on the passenger side. It sounds like the engine but am not sure what it might be. What is causing the tapping sound and how to fix it? (i saw some ppl post about the OCV.) The car also has a light vibration when am at a stop n in gear. Its annoying because i bought a car not a tractor.
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