Some days car's ride very smooth and other days you feel every bump with the suspension feeling harsh at times. For some reason after it rains the car rides better as well. Do the tires soften up when there is moisture? Sometimes the temp. outside also affect things. Is it just my imagination?
View 4 RepliesI have been working on my front suspension for last 4 to 5 months and not getting any luck getting rid of the harshness over bumps and the large amount of energy from hitting bumps that transmits back into cabin both from the chassis and steering wheel.
I solved one issue that can be read through on my post for "Bad Engine Mounts ?" but still does not feel solid like it should over bumps. So far this is what I have done.
- New LCA Bushings (solid rubber style rear and Whiteline front)
- Koni FSD Shocks
- VW DG Sport Springs
- 034 Density upper strut mounts
- Meyle HD Sway Bar Link
- ECS Sub Frame Bolt Kit
Had VW Dealer put on rack last week and they could not find any looseness any where in front suspension. In desperation I took LF suspension apart yesterday to see if there was anything that I could figure out that would cause the suspension to not absorb the energy and create this harshness I am feeling.
My first thought is to go back to stock upper strut mounts, there is some give in the OEM mount compared to the 034 Density mount, they are rock solid! The other thing I noticed is the sport spring is rubbing on the strut spring perch.
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Then after look at profile of OEM spring on bottom and new sport spring I noticed they are different, OEM is kinda like a hook and sport spring is round.
OEM matches strut spring perch perfectly.
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Sport spring is tight
I would consider putting OEM spring back in but really would like to lessen wheel/fender gap and OEM springs look like they have sprung, won't stand up straight on bench cause they are curved after they came out of OEM struts. Also, B6 has no rubber insulators where springs seats into strut, my B5.5 has rubber insulators both top and bottom.
Didn't notice this on the test drive, but as soon as I started living with my Santa Fe (about 3-4 weeks now) I can't believe how harsh and rough the ride is. Very very uncompromising over all road irregularities - even those you can't even really see. 2013 Santa Fe Sport?
It's so bad I've been searching for aftermarket struts and shocks to replace what must be garbage OEM parts - but nothing seems to be available for it yet.
I have a new 2016 F250, few months old, loving life. I noticed a weird noise/feeling when I am making turns while going over a bumps. There is a left hand turn on my way home that I take every day at approx 15 mph. There is a dip in the road and I can feel a weird grind kinda feeling through the gas pedal and a noise from the front right suspension. Being a brand new truck, I'm not sure what the deal is, or if I'm just overly critical.
View 4 RepliesI have this creaking sound/feeling underfoot when my suspension articulates in a turn. Seems to me like it's the control arm bushing where it meets the frame which is directly under the driver's side of the cab...
View 5 RepliesI have 06 Passat 6M with 75k. When I let off or get in the gas when I am moving I will feel a clunking feeling. I dont think its the flywheel since there is no rattling like I have heard dual mass flywheels make when they fail. I dont think its the trans but I could be wrong. Don't think its the diff either since it makes no noises nor does it have resistance feeling when turning.
Pretty sure it's not the axles. I had a boot replaced within weeks I found it was torn a little. It was torn at most 6 weeks. I am thinking subframe is shifting or crappy dog bone mount or maybe even a motor/trans mount.
16 se. When driving slowly, I feel my car shift into second gear, not very smooth, to other gears, it's butter smooth. I mean it's not bad at all but little harsh for a new car. I only have 700 miles on it. Is this kinda normal !?
View 9 RepliesI have the 2000 passat 1.8L 4 cylinder with the tiptronic shifting. The car has been shifting less smoothly both upshifting and down. I have noticed that if you are going fast and slow suddenly, say for a light and the downshifting does not go smoothly the vehicle can lurch/jump even if the brakes are firmly applied.
What may be causing this issue. I recently sold my MKIV which was a great car and we are now starting to have small problems with this passat with 104,000 miles on it. It does not intuitively feel that the tranny is worked over yet, but I would like to avoid any expensive repairs/replacement. I have done everything from suspension, door replacement, clutches and timing belts on other vw's. So I am hoping to tackle this myself.
Basically when I'm coming into my driveway (I turn to the right into it) I hit with the right front first and get this shuddering sound accompanied by a sloppy feeling in the steering wheel.
Sounds like the old door stop Springs. I sometimes get it as well when hitting bumps with either side at a time but not when hitting speed bumps or bumps where both wheels hit at the same time.
Went to the dealership but they couldn't reproduce it on the newly built read that's as smooth as glass.....
I have a 08 2.0T sedan with 97K that I have been chasing a "shuttering" feeling in the front end when I go over harsh bumps like railroad tracks and frost heaves that we get on roads here in NE.
At this point the front suspension has had a lot of improvements done and problem still exits.
Front suspension work over last 6 months:
- New LCA Bushings (solid rubber style rear and Whiteline front)
- Koni FSD Shocks
- VW DG Sport Springs
- 034 Density upper strut mounts
- Meyle HD Sway Bar Link
- ECS Sub Frame Bolt Kit
After all this there is actually an increase in this shuttering feeling most likely due to a firmer suspension now with new springs.
The car drive fantastic, the feeling that there is something loose up front and the shuttering feeling when hitting harsh bumps is diving me crazy.
In addition, I drove a local VwVortexer's 06 Passat that is riding low on coilovers and it did not have this same shuttering from the front so pretty sure what is going on in my car is not normal.
Completely went through front suspension last night and tripled checked that everything is tight and secure!
Also, have upgraded sub frame bolts with ECS kit and checked all the bolts to make sure they are tight and all is good.
Since after all this work and substantial $$$ investment the problem is still there, should I be looking at motor mounts ?
The engine/tranny is no where near secure sitting in the existing mounts, have noticed two things that have been this way for quite awhile.
If parking brake is not on when tightening or breaking loose lug nuts car has a lot of rock back and forth and you can see engine moving a lot if hood open.
Last night I put a large screw driver between right side mount where piece from engine goes into frame mount and I can move engine side to side with minimal effort about 1 1/2" or more.
One more thing, when coming to a slow stop at the last downshift just before you stop I get a light clunk from left side somewhere and if you slow down from 50 mph or so to 25 to 30 mph and then put gas back on you get a left side clunk too but not always. Does it sound like bad mounts?
In a nutshell, I'm tired of my incredibly harsh ride. I drive a 2006 3.6L with H&R Sport Springs. I had to put spring boosters in the rear to keep the tire from grinding, but whenever I have a passenger in the back it still grinds, especially over some turns or speed bumps.
The ride quality is also very harsh, it sucks. Plus the front wheels can't align anymore (at least that's what the guy at the mechanic's told me.) Basically, I want my ride quality to improve a lot. I'm debating going back to stock, but I'm not going to like the big gap in between my wheels.
So, I got in my car this morning, it started fine, no CEL, pulled out onto the main road and while while accelerating, it started to sputter and the CEL flashed several times. I turned back into my neighborhood, expecting it to stall, but it didn't. I sat there for a second, it was running fine, but I felt a few slight rumbles while idling, enough to make me nervous, but not enough to prevent me from continuing to work (I'm out of PTO).
So, I continued on, no CEL, accelerated and the sputtering happened again, slowed down, lightly pressed the gas pedal and it was fine. I made it to work. I just got the APR programming on Monday. I ordered the TT225 diverter valve.
I have a 2003 Passat and it won't start at random times. The battery would loose all it's charge but has the battery tested and it was fine. Hooked a voltmeter to the battery and with engine off got 12.4v. Right when I start it it would drop to about 10.6-11.1v. While running it would show 14.1v and with all accessories on and running at about 2000rpm it would read 13.6v.
View 10 RepliesI bought my 3.6 in november with 2k miles on and now have 15k, in the last month or 2 I've noticed that at odd times it idles high. It normally idles at 500-600 id say and will randomly peak to 1000-1100. It wouldn't really bother me except it sounds like hell and I have to practically stand on the brakes for it not to jump forward. I've had 13k miles and 6 months of problem free driving
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a 2002 VW Passat 2 weeks ago. I love the car and the drive, but the acceleration is excellent at times, and very slow at times. Also the car gives me a stutter step every once in a while while at low speeds....I bought the car in Mass so I have 13 days left for the dealer warranty. What it is?
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 explorer honks 3 times on lock and 4 times on unlock when you just press the remote once.
View 5 RepliesTrying methods found elsewhere on this site not working anymore. No matter how much wd-40 and door slamming I do, I am getting the 4 short honks on lock and 2 on unlock. No door ajar light and interior lights go off as normal so it doesn't seem to be door open sensor.
View 9 Replies2003 F150 Super Crew 5.4
When I turn off the ignition, the drivers door lock unlocks or pushes the arm through the door for up to 30-60 seconds over and over again. I would say like 10 times and it is annoying as hell.
Is the only part in the door that controls this the actuator or is there something else that can be doing this?
I had been having battery issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter for the longest time, thought i had a short under dash, i pulled entire dash out, disconnecting bat first of course, and inspected all wiring harness connections and fixing my issues and putting it all back together. now with new bat and all put back together i am now getting the airbag light flashing 5 times then 2 times (error code 52) i know it has some thing to do with power failure or backup battery, but now with the new battery in i cant seem to get it to reset. How to do this?
View 3 RepliesOk so about a month ago I went to the store got into my car turned on my car after a couple seconds it beeped about 3 times then turned off i turned it back on and it worked fine ... and now yesterday i was driving the car everything was fine till i was driving on the freeway and it beeped 3 times again and looked like it was going to turn off but didn't .... and about a half hour later driving doing about 45 mph the car beeps and turned off on me ... So I pulled over and just turned the car on and it worked fine again ...
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 Passat is less than three years old and the front and back brakes & rotors have been replaced at least four times.
View 8 Replies